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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Exhaust sounds terrible - thoughts?

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    I currently have CTS Turbo non-resonated downpipes and, until a couple days ago, had a completely stock system downstream of those. I wanted to get a little more noise and tone from it so I tried the center resonator delete with two straight pipes (yes, I am regretting not just purchasing the ECS X-pipe because I also sacrificed the flow benefits with two isolated pipes). The car just sounds too harsh and raspy now so I need to mellow it out. I picked up the Magnaflow 11385 resonator and went to have that installed today but was told by the shop they couldn't see how it could possibly fit in anywhere in the system. I will be going to another shop tomorrow for another opinion but I'd like to start developing a plan if they also tell me no.

    Obviously I can buy a full catback and sold it but that's $1200+ so I'd like to avoid that if possible. Alternatively I could buy the ECS X-pipe which I know will fit but it isn't resonated. I know that the X will have flow benefits and that it can reduce noise by a few dB but I don't know if that will be enough.

    Just looking for some thoughts or opinions and yes, I have looked through other threads on here including the massive Center Resonator Delete thread though I admit I eventually got lazy and posted this instead. That mofo is long
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    As long as those downpipes are made to connect to the factory system you can add the magnaflow for sure. BUT, you need the 2.5" version which is 11386. The muffler shop will have to cut the downpipes back a little to fit it between there and the mid section. Even though the factory system is around 2.2" on the other side they should still be able to weld it on

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ModItNow View Post
    As long as those downpipes are made to connect to the factory system you can add the magnaflow for sure. BUT, you need the 2.5" version which is 11386. The muffler shop will have to cut the downpipes back a little to fit it between there and the mid section. Even though the factory system is around 2.2" on the other side they should still be able to weld it on

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    Here a picture of mine with IE downpipes 20180820_103318.jpeg20180820_101021.jpeg

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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings kelseysautobody's Avatar
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    If you don't want to cut into your down pipes just put the 11385 in place where the center resonator used to be. Because it's further down stream it might not cancel as much rasp but it will help. Buying the ECS x-pipe is not going to change the sound much at all over your current set up.
    2013 S4 S-tronic - APR intake // KI 200mm crank pulley // EPL Stg II DP 93 + TCU tune // PLM hx // Jokerz Blower // Headers // Ice box // iABED TB
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelseysautobody View Post
    If you don't want to cut into your down pipes just put the 11385 in place where the center resonator used to be. Because it's further down stream it might not cancel as much rasp but it will help. Buying the ECS x-pipe is not going to change the sound much at all over your current set up.
    That's definitely a good option too but if you don't have cats I would really try to place it in the downpipes

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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Appreciate the feedback everyone. I went to one more shop over lunch and they also said they couldn't do it. I wish I had seen the pictures posted up here by ModItNow because that looks like what I'd like to try. The last shop wasn't feeling good about making the little bent pieces of pipe needed to connect the downpipe outlets to the font of the resonator. At the time when I was there it looked like a tough putt as well but seeing it done on your setup makes me think it may not be that bad. My angles might be a little more extreme than yours but it certainly seems that it should be do-able.

    Heading over to one more place that seems to be more of a specialty shop tomorrow morning so I'm hoping they can pull it off. The rasp and overall sound quality right now are embarrassing. I had a chance to play with a nice looking S5 on my way home from work the other night and I just let him go because I was so embarrassed by how mine sounded.
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings kelseysautobody's Avatar
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    Do you have test pipes?
    2013 S4 S-tronic - APR intake // KI 200mm crank pulley // EPL Stg II DP 93 + TCU tune // PLM hx // Jokerz Blower // Headers // Ice box // iABED TB
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I have an 11386 back where the factory center resonator used to be. Granted, I have a hacked up FI exhaust that may have made it easier (or harder??) to squeeze in there. It is a very tight fit with some creative packaging (angled), but it will go in. I wish I had pictures (I'm currently nowhere near my car and couldn't get pictures for you by the time you'd need to make a decision).

    I would say two things to keep in mind:
    1) You want the x-pipe section closer the front. The objective is to even out the exhaust pulses for scavenging purposes. I was once told (and I don't know how true this is) that the best place to put an x-pipe (or h-pipe) was temperature related. And one way to tell was to use a Crayola Crayon (not the knock offs) and make a line down the exhaust. The cross-over pipe (h- or x-) should be placed where the crayon no longer melts. I'd love to know how that was determined and how true it is.
    2) It is easier to control (redirect, dampen) exhaust when it has less energy. If you do add a resonator, the best place to control sound then will be further to the rear of the car. The closer to the back you are, the cooler the exhaust becomes and (PV=nRT) with less pressure. This is at least one reason why exhaust manufacturers place mufflers/resonators at the rear of cars (and packaging). I suspect that those people complaining that their 11385 now rattles like crazy is because it was placed further toward the front (but I'll find out with the placement of my 11386) where it takes more heat and abuse.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilort View Post
    I have an 11386 back where the factory center resonator used to be. Granted, I have a hacked up FI exhaust that may have made it easier (or harder??) to squeeze in there. It is a very tight fit with some creative packaging (angled), but it will go in. I wish I had pictures (I'm currently nowhere near my car and couldn't get pictures for you by the time you'd need to make a decision).

    I would say two things to keep in mind:
    1) You want the x-pipe section closer the front. The objective is to even out the exhaust pulses for scavenging purposes. I was once told (and I don't know how true this is) that the best place to put an x-pipe (or h-pipe) was temperature related. And one way to tell was to use a Crayola Crayon (not the knock offs) and make a line down the exhaust. The cross-over pipe (h- or x-) should be placed where the crayon no longer melts. I'd love to know how that was determined and how true it is.
    2) It is easier to control (redirect, dampen) exhaust when it has less energy. If you do add a resonator, the best place to control sound then will be further to the rear of the car. The closer to the back you are, the cooler the exhaust becomes and (PV=nRT) with less pressure. This is at least one reason why exhaust manufacturers place mufflers/resonators at the rear of cars (and packaging). I suspect that those people complaining that their 11385 now rattles like crazy is because it was placed further toward the front (but I'll find out with the placement of my 11386) where it takes more heat and abuse.
    POLO has the resonator box up front and the xpipe in the back.
    add some helms holtz pipes (or as yall call them 'j pipes') and you will get the GREATEST sound on earth.

  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings Jk79's Avatar
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    Most shops arenít going to try to hack up your exhaust to make it work. A decent speed shop/performance shop that does custom exhaust probably will. But it may take a day or 2 to mock it up, cut and bend pipe, etc. Could easily end up being several hours of work plus time for install, add the cost of the Magnaflow you already purchased and you could be close $1k already. Once you start to factor in all the changes youíve made already plus changes you may still need to make if the sound doesnít come out the way you want and you might find itís cheaper to have just bought a new cat back from the start.

    That said, if you have the resonator it might be cheaper to just put that back on for now while you explore options or save up for a non custom exhaust. Lots of great options out there. The xpipe is an option but can be quite raspy. Some love it but it was too raspy for me. I tried several combinations of pipes, xpipe, Magnaflow, res and non res and finally just bought the AWE Touring.

    TLDR: custom exhaust can work out great with lots of trial and error, and cost. Or just go buy a new cat back.
    2014 S4 - Stage 1 ECU & TCU, AWE Touring, IE CAI, CR15, 034 Rear Sway, 034 Trans Mount, RS Quattro grille, ECS CF Diffuser, RS7 Wheels, Ceramic Coat

  11. #11
    Senior Member Four Rings Ford Prefect's Avatar
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    I just had two regular ceramic cats put in. I had gone test pipes while doing my clutch, everything else stock. Sounded like completely shit. Cold start made the car sound like it might just fall apart like the flintstones car. Installed two HFCs (metal spun) in place of the baby resonators. Better but still, only partial shit.

    Went to get the 11385 installed and HFCs moves forward. After a discussion with the custom exhaust guy, I went with two ceramic cats in place of the HFCs and left the 11385 out of the car.

    SO much better. Cold start is a bit rough, but my 2500-3200 rasp is gone. Car is slightly more aggressive than stock. Iím OBDII complaint and can still modify down stream.

    The guy actually said that removing cats so far up and ruin downstream components due to exhaust gas speed and pressure. Some have complained of that on here.

    IMG_1753.jpg

    IMG_1754.jpg


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  12. #12
    Senior Member Four Rings ModItNow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Prefect View Post
    I just had two regular ceramic cats put in. I had gone test pipes while doing my clutch, everything else stock. Sounded like completely shit. Cold start made the car sound like it might just fall apart like the flintstones car. Installed two HFCs (metal spun) in place of the baby resonators. Better but still, only partial shit.

    Went to get the 11385 installed and HFCs moves forward. After a discussion with the custom exhaust guy, I went with two ceramic cats in place of the HFCs and left the 11385 out of the car.

    SO much better. Cold start is a bit rough, but my 2500-3200 rasp is gone. Car is slightly more aggressive than stock. Iím OBDII complaint and can still modify down stream.

    The guy actually said that removing cats so far up and ruin downstream components due to exhaust gas speed and pressure. Some have complained of that on here.

    IMG_1753.jpg

    IMG_1754.jpg


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    That's good to know that you can put ceramic cats in that place and minimize the test pipe rasp. Obviously most people are doing the MagnaFlow x pipe for that so good to see a different solution

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    Last edited by ModItNow; 01-14-2019 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Typo

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelseysautobody View Post
    Do you have test pipes?
    No, still have the factory cats in place
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Prefect View Post
    I just had two regular ceramic cats put in. I had gone test pipes while doing my clutch, everything else stock. Sounded like completely shit. Cold start made the car sound like it might just fall apart like the flintstones car. Installed two HFCs (metal spun) in place of the baby resonators. Better but still, only partial shit.

    Went to get the 11385 installed and HFCs moves forward. After a discussion with the custom exhaust guy, I went with two ceramic cats in place of the HFCs and left the 11385 out of the car.

    SO much better. Cold start is a bit rough, but my 2500-3200 rasp is gone. Car is slightly more aggressive than stock. Iím OBDII complaint and can still modify down stream.

    The guy actually said that removing cats so far up and ruin downstream components due to exhaust gas speed and pressure. Some have complained of that on here.

    IMG_1753.jpg

    IMG_1754.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    This is a really interesting option and to be honest if the shop tomorrow won't put in the Magnaflow, I think I will try to pursue this route. I completely understand the comments about going down a rabbit hole with modifications when I could just buy a catback system and I've already started PM'ing in the Classifieds to see what my options might be, but I feel like I'd like to try at least one more time with what I have simply because I've heard some other setups that are OEM-based with similar mods and I really like the sound.

    Do you have any details on what the cats were that are in your setup? Maybe I wouldn't necessarily do a redundant set of cats, but I know there are plenty of tubular resonators available off the shelf that might do some good toward mellowing this.
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  15. #15
    Senior Member Four Rings Ford Prefect's Avatar
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    Exhaust sounds terrible - thoughts?

    I can call them tomorrow and find out. They were great to work with. I had an appointment today at 11:30, we talked until noon and I decided on this option. They were finished by 1pm and I was gone at 1:15.

    For comparison for when they quote you, it was $700 total including the cats. To do what I wanted it was going to be $500.

    Iím certain this sounds better.


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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Well these guys are clearly more capable than the other shops. They have the resonator tacked in place and will be welding shortly. I really hope this does trick.

    EDIT: Resonator worked like a charm and now everything is back to 'normal'. However, I came across a few video and sound clips of people with a the same setup (factory cats, no baby resonators, Magnaflow resonated X-pipe, secondary stock resonator delete) who did a muffler delete or a swap with some sort of a performance muffler and I really like the sound so I'm going to be doing a little research on that option to see what might be available.
    Last edited by JACKAL; 01-15-2019 at 01:33 PM.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings theweebabyseamus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ModItNow View Post
    As long as those downpipes are made to connect to the factory system you can add the magnaflow for sure. BUT, you need the 2.5" version which is 11386. The muffler shop will have to cut the downpipes back a little to fit it between there and the mid section. Even though the factory system is around 2.2" on the other side they should still be able to weld it on

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    +1, added restriction running the 11385 instead of the 11386. But if it works, it works.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Four Rings Ford Prefect's Avatar
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    Sorry for tardiness. I didnít realize that you still had factory cats. I wouldíve donít the same if I had them. The magnaflow cats were the 99305HM series.

    My next move might be the 11385 in place of the center resonator.


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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theweebabyseamus View Post
    +1, added restriction running the 11385 instead of the 11386. But if it works, it works.
    I figured since the majority of my piping was still 2.25", it really didn't make any difference.
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings JACKAL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Prefect View Post
    Sorry for tardiness. I didnít realize that you still had factory cats. I wouldíve donít the same if I had them. The magnaflow cats were the 99305HM series.

    My next move might be the 11385 in place of the center resonator.


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    Not at all - I do appreciate all the feedback and advice. Luckily the resonator did a fantastic job of eliminating the rasp and harshness. Now I actually find myself looking for a little more aggressive tone so I'm considering replacing or deleting the stock mufflers. I found a few clips of vehicles that had the same setup as me with muffler deletes and in my opinion they actually sounded pretty good.
    2010 Sprint Blue S4 / United Motorsports Stage 2 Dual Pulley | Tampa Autosports Ported Blower | iABED 75mm Throttle Body | 6MT | B&O Stereo| CTS Turbo Non-Resonated Downpipes | CTS Turbo Intake | R8 Coil Packs | Blackout Headlights | R1 Concepts Drilled & Slotted Front Rotors | Eurocode Short Shifter | D-Steering Wheel | Stainless Clutch Line

  21. #21
    Senior Member Four Rings Ford Prefect's Avatar
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    Exhaust sounds terrible - thoughts?

    I appear drunk every time I reply on here. ďI wouldíve done*** the sameĒ

    Thatís great that you want more, thatís a much easier job! Glad it worked out. Do yourself a favor and donít replace the stock cats unless they go bad. It is seriously a whole can of worms.

    Mine is better with the new DP cats, but there is def a vibration around 3k rpm. Itís a little worse when engine braking at that rpm, but Iíll take it over that god forsaken rasp.


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