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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109811
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA

    P1198 and P1199, But resistance readings on all O2 sensors are in spec?

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    My car threw P1198 and P1199 the other day. I popped the hood, and used this guide (https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng101.shtml) to check the resistances on each of the QTY4 O2 sensors.

    Readings were as follows:
    - B1S1 - 3.5Ω
    - B1S2 - 9.8Ω
    - B2S1 - 3.5Ω
    - B2S2 - 9.8Ω

    The accepted resistance values are <20Ω, so these should all be working fine.

    Any ideas on what I can track down next? Anything In Vagcom to help narrow it down?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings LJS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    112983
    My Garage
    15 VW GTI S-Very WHITE
    Location
    Connecticut

    I had a similar issue a while ago ....I ended up replacing both bank-1 sensors (Bosch PN 16287 with the short cable--getting more difficult to find)
    A year later(August'18) the rear (bank-2) started with intermittent fault codes--again I had to replace them both (Bosch PN 16073 with the long cable)
    I couldn't get a straight answer as to why- Bosch advised replacement due to age even though I told them the vehicle only had approx 70,000miles of use....who knows...
    Regarding VAGCOM---measuring blocks 30 thru 44 will keep you busy collect information on everything from aging to readiness.
    PS- if replacing you'll need to slightly modify the connector on the brown sensor( driver side-rear)--you'll see it when you take it apart and try to insert the new cable. I used the small sanding drum(1/4 OD) with a Dremel Tool to remove the material on the connector.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109811
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA

    I did some more digging, and Ross-Tech lists 3 possible faults:
    - Bad O2 sensors
    - Bad wiring harness
    - ECU going bad

    I am going to try and locate the wiring harness diagram between the O2 sensor connectors and the ECU to test those. (Can anyone point me in that direction?)
    Then it's off to the junkyard for a replacement ECU to be tuned by Blake.

    Link: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17606

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings LJS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    112983
    My Garage
    15 VW GTI S-Very WHITE
    Location
    Connecticut

    this should help-

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2B...JTOVI3ZDg/view
    See page 6 and 7
    G108 and G39 are D/S and Pass/S front sensors,respectively.
    G130 and G131 are the rear

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109811
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by LJS View Post
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2B...JTOVI3ZDg/view
    See page 6 and 7
    G108 and G39 are D/S and Pass/S front sensors,respectively.
    G130 and G131 are the rear
    SICK! Thanks so much!

    So the "J220" section in the middle of the page is the ECU I take it. And the numbers are the pin out within the ECU, but where is there a diagram of the ECU showing the pin out for reference?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings LJS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    112983
    My Garage
    15 VW GTI S-Very WHITE
    Location
    Connecticut

    http://nefariousmotorsports.com/foru...pic=59.0title=
    You'll need to register to obtain a copy

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109811
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA

    I checked in Vagcom, and this is what i saw:

    The fault codes were:
    17606 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S2
    P1198 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

    17607 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B2 S2
    P1199 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

    The below screenshots were all taken about 2 minutes after a cold start, and at idle.




  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    109811
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA

    I am totally stumped. I can't figure out why none of these wires are ringing out properly to show continuity.

    Or is the issue completely separate as the Voltages for B1S2 and B2S2 are 15-30% lower than B1S1 and B2S1?



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