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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings Mokacrow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    104299
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Auto, 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario

    CLUTCH DIY - Misc Parts to have on hand.... AKA, ,YET ANOTHER B6 CLUTCH THREAD

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    LADIES and GENTS,

    I've read thru about 2 dozen clutch threads and looking to compile some information prior to tackling this project (4hrs for some, 6hrs for others.... lol. Original thread linked here.)

    Two questions:

    QUESTION #1
    This is going to be a weekend job. Please throw out your list of spare parts to have on hand. I have access to the hoist for the weekend and maybe a Monday, but it can't stay there long term.

    Also, I can keep updating this list for others. Maybe some of these are BS items so please chime in....

    So far...

    Clutch Kit with pressure plate, friction disc, pilot bearing, etc.
    Flywheel is a must (I have a new Dual Mass but I can see why some choose single)
    Rear Main Seal
    Transmission Seals (front, rear, axles, shifter rod)
    Installation Kit from ECS (linked here) (Pretty much includes all nuts and bolts of things that will need to be removed. Perhaps they missed something?)
    Exhaust Pipes (My flex pipe is going, as well as Resonator aka Centre Muffler so I've ordered these. May not be required for all)

    EDITED:
    ETKA Diagrams
    ELSA or BENTLEY Book/DVD



    QUESTION #2
    Have access to a hoist but no tranny jack. Recommendations for best way to get the tranny out? If leaving engine in, best way to support engine (rely on the two mounts + snub, or use something from above engine, etc.?)



    Have three young kids at home so I'm sure I've forgotten something in between crayons and diapers!
    MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE REPLIES!

    CHEERS!
    Last edited by Mokacrow; 01-13-2019 at 07:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 28 2015
    AZ Member #
    323385
    My Garage
    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
    Location
    Portland OR, United States

    I used a pair of 2x4's across the engine bay with a short piece of chain to hold the motor up. Saves having things break by allowing the back of the motor to drop too far. Inspect the cootland flange on the back of the head, it's a great time to change it. The o ring on my sensor was also going.
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    116640
    My Garage
    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    We did the same thing on my buddies B7 2.0T over a weekend. Hoisted it up, left the motor in place, with the snub mount intact which kept the motor from rocking back, unbolted everything, we had 10 hands and tried to take the transmission out over our heads. But one linkage wasnt removed and we aborted that operation, sorted that out, then lowered the car to the ground and just hauled it out on our back. raised the car did our stuff and chucked it back on, while on our backs. I would skip the rear main seal, unless its leaking. We were probably 12 hours total, but we were messing around with other stuff too in the shop. The longest part was the pilot bearing removal. The 2.0T is a bitch compared to the 1.8Ts. I would replace that while your in there for sure. And use the bread trick, that took 5 minutes on my 6spd, compared to 2 hours on the 2.0T that we had to dremel and hammer out...

    For parts, you are putting a new disc in as well correct? The pressure plate is probably fine. I never hear of those failing. I would also do a throw out bearing. Its a perfect time to drain and fill the fluid from the transmission, drain while its up then fill when its out kind of thing. I usually like to replace those drain/fill bolts too, but thats me. Good time to replace the transmission mount too. My clutch fork was pretty worn and replaced it too, along with the pivot ball, arm and retaining spring. I would recommend slamming those in too.

    A few tips, if you are not replacing the slave, then keep the hydraulic line attached, to save from having to bleed it. When reinstalling the slave with the transmission is bolted is stubborn. But what I do is when drawing the transmission in, when you have about 1/2" left to draw, thats when you can slip the slave cylinder in. Make sure you hit the fork, you can pinch the rubber boot to guide the push pin and feel for it, then bring the salve in. Its a bit cumbersome, but guarantees it aligns. Then draw the transmission in the rest of the way.
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2006 A4 3.2 AT Avant
    2006 A4 3.2 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    ELSAwin and ETKA

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings Mokacrow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    104299
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Auto, 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario

    Thanks Spike.... Those are quite obvious and I forgot. Adding them to the list above.

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings Mokacrow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    104299
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Auto, 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario

    Wondering if anyone has anything else to add? About to order these parts up.....

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    if you get an SAC (Self-Adjusting Clutch) as part of a DMF kit, it'll probably need to be reset using a hydraulic shop press.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4SoftWalker's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2008
    AZ Member #
    28744
    My Garage
    Avant 03A4 1.8TQMS, 05V70R, BMW535i
    Location
    NoCal - EBay

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    I used a pair of 2x4's across the engine bay with a short piece of chain to hold the motor up. Saves having things break by allowing the back of the motor to drop too far. Inspect the COOLANT flange on the back of the head, it's a great time to change it. The o ring on my sensor was also going.


    ^^^This Engine Support Bar works too. $52 bucks at Newegg (believe-it-or-not) and $76 at Harbor Freight. Supports up to 1000 lbs. I got mine from Harbor Freight.
    'SOFTWALKER MODS
    Do U have a Bentley/Dealer Manual & Tools to work on UR car properly?
    Hit-or-miss expecting manna to fall from AZ?
    Personal Motto>Walk Softly Carry a Big Stick. YEAH I'M BACK!
    BUILD? Click & be Amazed!
    Avant>Sedan! Click



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