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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 25 2014
    AZ Member #
    297705
    Location
    Columbus, IN

    2002 B6 3.0 Clutch Replacement Advice

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    Hi Everyone, I just felt some slip on my A4's clutch today, so its time for a replacement. Car has 115k on it. I wont be able to get to it till June, but since my car will be parked from Feb till may, I think it will make it. I figured I would take the chance to go with a light weight flywheel while I'm at it. Also are there any walk-throughs since this is my first time replacing a clutch. Also what else do people recommend I do while I'm there, I figured if I end up pulling the engine out I can replace the engine mounts with some stiffer ones, probably 034 density ones (don't want to increase the NVH, just upgrades while I'm there).

    Are there any other mods/upgrades that are recommended to do with my clutch? What clutch/flywheel combos does everyone recommend? and are there any walk-throughs or watch-outs while doing this job? Like I said I am months away, but I figured I would get a head start asking for advice.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    I did the JHM lightweight flywheel/clutch a few months ago. At first I did it by pulling just the tranny. That was a pain because I have a low profile jack, so getting the car high enough to get the tranny out of the way was a bit difficult. When I got everything back together the clutch pedal wouldn't move at all, which I assumed was flywheel/clutch related, so I stupidly decided to pull the engine and transmission out and separate them to inspect everything.

    Turns out it was just the slave cylinder. I didn't get it seated correctly. I just had to pull it out and re-seat it.

    It really is pretty easy to pull the engine and transmission together, so I'd recommend doing it that way.

    With the engine out, I cleaned it all up, replaced the valve cover gaskets, and I think that was it. I wanted to do the motor mounts but didn't have money so I skipped them. Super bad decision.

    I just got done installing the 034 street density mounts and I had to take the snub mount off, lower the subframe and lower the engine enough to get the passenger side out.

    I'd recommend motor and tranny mounts, valve cover gaskets, and maybe short shifter kit. And clean the engine and transmission while they're out.

    It's really not a tough job, just time consuming. But if you've got room to work, you can do it pretty quick.

    I had the engine and trans out on Friday night, and back in the car Sunday afternoon.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    ELSAwin and ETKA may help with a walk-through.

    I'd service whatever else is in the area (clutch fork, etc.)

    I guess SMF vs. DMF is up to you. DMF supposedly can last 100-300k+ miles and maybe has a bit more dampening. Costs less. Is heavier. They say it starts rattling and becomes loose when it wears out, eventually coming apart and piercing the bellhousing with shrapnel.
    Last time I changed mounts was putting Febi B5 S4 ones in but it might've been easier to do (engine still in car) because it was a 1.8T.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    71458
    Location
    Pittsburgh

    I was surprised at how much new hardware I ended up buying: subframe bolts (which the manual says to not reuse), stripped triple-square (axle), stripped hex bolts (drive shaft), flywheel bolts (which should not be reused), and other random things like the tailshaft-to-driveshaft grease seal... new exhaust down pipe to manifold gaskets... and those down pipe to intermediate shaft couplers (which would not seal when reused even though they looked fine = failed emissions inspection). Oh, my front lower control arm bushings were shot, too.

    You should replace the slave cylinder (I didn't have a choice since the boot crumbled and the push rod fell into the bell housing when I pulled it away from the engine). The new clutch kit will probably come with a new thrust bearing and pilot bearing (at least my LUK oem kit did).

    Take a really close look at your cooling system for leaks, since the rear cooling flange is accessible from underneath with the trans out of the car (this turned into a huge project for me because that flange was leaking at the connection under the intake manifold). You may also want to think about suspension since you will probably need a realignment anyway if you drop your subframe.

    One more thing... if you decide to go with OEM, do not reuse the dual mass flywheel. As was said above, they do wear out. Get a new one because a new clutch will most likely outlive a DMF with 115k on it.
    2005 A4 B6 3.0L 6MT USP Ocean Blue



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