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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit

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    I thought I would do write up here because I've always wanted a heated steering wheel and since the required items to add it on were small, I decided to tackle the task.

    Bought the wheel from Cascadegerman on Ebay seller 11/2017 - yes, it took me over a year to put this in. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine...item43bcc813b8

    Next was to download this and read through. This is very thorough and although it is from the reference of installing an entire MFSW, he covers off all connectors, pins, wires, etc. and even provides simple wiring digrams for routing https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/akti...hmentId=736645

    I also did a lot of research on wiring and connectors and since Audi won't sell you crimp ends anymore and only sell you yellow repair wires, I found this guy on Amazon. He's in Latvia, but his service is amazing and is very knowledgeable. https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=bl_dp_s_...ords=Macroconn

    if you want to contact him, you can use that link or email me and I'll send you his direct contact.

    I also used these guys for all the wiring. They don't have the smaller wire, 0.5mm and smaller, but I find for stuff like this it doesn't really matter. http://www.riwire.com/

    After I ordered everything I went to the junk yard and picked up a turn signal stock, clock spring, and lower trim, and the trunk release button to test out my plan.







    After I was comfortable with the fit, I built the wiring harness and tested the fit in the car. As you can see in these photos I wrapped my harness with hockey tape for a factory look.





    I had to buy the 2 wire connector to connect to the clockspring and I had to make a couple of splice joints along the way. 2 pin connector is on the right side, middle of the image. It has the Black and Yellow wire coming out of it


    As you can see in this photo, I opened up the plastic wire holder and put the wire in the factory location. My harness is the 2 thin wires hanging down - one has the tan connector on the end.


    I brought the power wire down into the fuse box and soldered it to the thinner black/Yellow wire, middle of the image, to the right of the 10mm Black/Yellow main feed.


    I then copied the position on the tan bottom column trim and made a template. I took the black trim from my car and cut out the square


    Test fit


    The only thing I didn't have was the pin to connect the switch on the steering column to the 616 relay on the panel. I have ordered this and will update when it comes in.

    Finished product.


    Obviously without the switch hooked up I can't test whether it's working, but my wires had continuity so I should be good. Once the pins come in it's a 15 min job to get it hooked up. I will update when that happens. The reason I went this route is I didn't want the wheel tied into the seat heater. There are times where I don't want the wheel on but want the seat on so I figured this would be the best way to do it.

    No real major issues here. I couldn't figure out how to get the wire holder out of the dual relay connector (separate post on here) but eventually figured it out.

    the last thing is to pull the switch, clean off the paint, and mask out the heated steering wheel icon and re-paint. Does anyone have the Audi button graphic file that I can grab? eps, ai, dwg, dxf, it's all good - I want all the icons if a file exists for this.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings mattlqx's Avatar
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    Nice job. How are these controlled in the vehicles where they were OE? Was it a button in the same place and it's just hard to source that button?
    Tons of Audis, Tons of Mustangs. That's just how I am.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattlqx View Post
    Nice job. How are these controlled in the vehicles where they were OE? Was it a button in the same place and it's just hard to source that button?
    No.

    It was wired into the drivers heated seat switch. When you turned on the seat, the wheel would heat up and then shut off after a predetermined temp.

    Because I sometimes want to run the two systems separately, I wanted a separate switch for the wheel.

    This era of Audi did not have a button decal for a heated steering wheel so I will use what they have now and make my own

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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I did the conversion on mine as well, along with factory front and rear heated seats. Unfortunately the heated wheel doesn't seem to work all the time lovely when it does work but disappointing when it doesn't. Might install a switch like this.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoganalley View Post
    I also did a lot of research on wiring and connectors and since Audi won't sell you crimp ends anymore and only sell you yellow repair wires, I found this guy on Amazon. He's in Latvia, but his service is amazing and is very knowledgeable. https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=bl_dp_s_...ords=Macroconn
    Hmm I thought I ordered some in the last year but it may have been sometime in early-mid 2017..

    You can get most of the ends from mouser as they all have a tyco part number. I actually just order 50 of each size of the rubber wire weather seals for the two smaller connector housing sizes and it was like 50 bucks shipped

    This thread has all the part number: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-part-numbers
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris86vw View Post
    I did the conversion on mine as well, along with factory front and rear heated seats. Unfortunately the heated wheel doesn't seem to work all the time lovely when it does work but disappointing when it doesn't. Might install a switch like this.



    Hmm I thought I ordered some in the last year but it may have been sometime in early-mid 2017..

    You can get most of the ends from mouser as they all have a tyco part number. I actually just order 50 of each size of the rubber wire weather seals for the two smaller connector housing sizes and it was like 50 bucks shipped

    This thread has all the part number: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-part-numbers
    Where the fuck where you 8 months ago.

    Could you have helped with the Fakra connector for the IF cable I just bought from VW for $60? I looked through Digi-Key and all those guys and couldn't find what I needed.

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    Edit:. I looked at it quickly but that looks like a great thread - thanks Chris.

    The one thing I like about Mickael is he gives me the correct contact number because I'm not using a legit version of ETKA. 7zap doesn't give you the terminal designation like ETKA does
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoganalley View Post
    Where the fuck where you 8 months ago.

    Could you have helped with the Fakra connector for the IF cable I just bought from VW for $60? I looked through Digi-Key and all those guys and couldn't find what I needed.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Audizine mobile app

    Edit:. I looked at it quickly but that looks like a great thread - thanks Chris.

    The one thing I like about Mickael is he gives me the correct contact number because I'm not using a legit version of ETKA. 7zap doesn't give you the terminal designation like ETKA does
    Ha maybe on the fakra stuff I had a hard time searching for them doing a project years ago too but gave up on it (gutted the sharkfin and just put new antennas in it) But Mouser does have some fakra type stuff.

    I forget about that vortex post from time to time and then come across it again. I jus. t happened to finally be working on making my reverse light connector for my manual swap about 2 weeks ago and have had that link open since. Waytek is another company with a bunch of pins, but haven't searched their inventory beyond some generic delpi/weatherpack stuff I was going to stock up on to make random connections. They did seem to have the best price on 3m sealing heatshrink butt connectors.
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    There are some other posts around that show pics of different harness connectors and then show what repair wire part number fits, might be linked in the vortex thread? Lots of great resource posts they just seem to be getting buried lately and harder to find.

    Like I some how figured out by accident that the connector I needed for my reverse light project was also the one I needed to extend the air suspension valve block harness.
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. I wonder whether that switch will work. I would imagine the factory system works using a latched input, not a momentary pulse.

    A buddy of mine is working out the details for retrofitting a newer heated wheel in to our cars. I canít wait. The heated wheel is awesome in winter, my wifeís touareg has it, but I couldnít bring myself to put the ugly 4 spoke wheel in my rs6
    -dre

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Thanks for sharing. I wonder whether that switch will work. I would imagine the factory system works using a latched input, not a momentary pulse.

    A buddy of mine is working out the details for retrofitting a newer heated wheel in to our cars. I canít wait. The heated wheel is awesome in winter, my wifeís touareg has it, but I couldnít bring myself to put the ugly 4 spoke wheel in my rs6
    Interesting point. I never actually thought that the signal may need to be constant - huh.

    We will find out in about a week!

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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings m_haiser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Thanks for sharing. I wonder whether that switch will work. I would imagine the factory system works using a latched input, not a momentary pulse.

    A buddy of mine is working out the details for retrofitting a newer heated wheel in to our cars. I canít wait. The heated wheel is awesome in winter, my wifeís touareg has it, but I couldnít bring myself to put the ugly 4 spoke wheel in my rs6
    you better not ruin that beautiful machinery with a 4 spoke! lol

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    So I'm an idiot.

    I ordered the connectors from Mike and as I am waiting, I decide to clean up my office.

    Low and behold, I find the connectors on my desk, buried.

    So, today, I did this:



    Pin 17


    Installed


    So I connected the battery again and did a test. It's about 28 here today so it's a good time to test it.

    I put the car in accessory and turn on the heated seats. Once they are warmed up I press the switch to turn on the wheel.

    I wait, nothing happens. Did I not turn it on?

    So thinking back to what 8520 said above, I pressed and held the switch.

    Guess what......

    It heated up in no time.

    So, what to do now? I'm going to wait until tonight when the wheel is cold and try again. I assume I will have the same fate, so I guess my 2 options are:

    1. Wire it up to the heated seat switch as factory

    2. Install a switch that will provide constant power. Any ideas what I can use besides the same switch as the heated seats?

    I assume this is a relay thing where it needs to see constant power to trip the relay? Unfortunately, electronics this deep is beyond my pay grade.....

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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings m_haiser's Avatar
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    my only concern with wiring up a switch would be the element not cycling on/off as designed and either burning up prematurely or burning up the steering wheel

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_haiser View Post
    my only concern with wiring up a switch would be the element not cycling on/off as designed and either burning up prematurely or burning up the steering wheel
    I am not concerned with this as I'm pretty picky about how hot I am while driving. I don't even keep my heated seats on that long - just long enough to get warm. I will do the same with the wheel - I'll just shut it off.

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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_haiser View Post
    my only concern with wiring up a switch would be the element not cycling on/off as designed and either burning up prematurely or burning up the steering wheel
    It is already working with just on/off signal from the heated seat switch. There is a controller in the steering wheel and thermostat built into the element just like (most) heated seats have.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I was wondering if something like a rear defroster switch with a built in timer would work, especially since you said you don't like to keep it on too long.
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris86vw View Post
    It is already working with just on/off signal from the heated seat switch. There is a controller in the steering wheel and thermostat built into the element just like (most) heated seats have.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I was wondering if something like a rear defroster switch with a built in timer would work, especially since you said you don't like to keep it on too long.
    Not a bad idea. I can look into that but it won't be stock because that switch is built into the HVAC.

    I don't even know if there is a switch in our car, or even a newer model, that can work that way.

    Is the Bimmer switch the same as ours? They had a separate button on the column like I did in the early 2000's I think. Can I use that? Or is ita different system then the Audi?

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    mk1 tt is by itself and early a4 (pre 200) but both are kind of large on the connector side.

    not sure about bmw stuff. I've worked on them but never paid attention to heated wheel button or defroster..other than hitting all the buttons to test load on the alternator :)
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris86vw View Post
    mk1 tt is by itself and early a4 (pre 200) but both are kind of large on the connector side.

    not sure about bmw stuff. I've worked on them but never paid attention to heated wheel button or defroster..other than hitting all the buttons to test load on the alternator :)
    Had a 1999 A4, that seat switch is too deep.

    I just looked up the TT switch, same thing.

    Maybe this isn't going to work. I may as well just wire it in to the factory location........

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    Last edited by hoganalley; 01-03-2019 at 06:15 AM.
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    alright - so after looking at what possibilities I have, I'm on the fence here.

    I looked at all switch retailers and I can't find a square, black low profile, LED latched switch - at least nothing that would look good in our cars.

    are there any buttons in the C5, or any other Audi for that matter, that is a latched switch? I am going to see if I can perhaps grab a heated seat switch from an A4 and just make sure it won't fit - I'm quite certain it won't, but I also think the dial switch on the column would look stupid.

    Edit: what about this?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW...5.c10#viTabs_0

    I'd hate to put a BMW switch in the car, but if it fits, why not? and I believe this is a latched switch because the LED light stays on once you press it, and goes off when you press it again.
    Last edited by hoganalley; 01-06-2019 at 01:10 PM.
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    So I went to a yard today to see what I could find and there was a 7 series that had this switch





    It looks like it will work, and it has an LED indicator that tells you whether it's on or off, so I believe this to be a latched switch.

    Here's the test fit on the beige column





    It's obviously smaller than the Audi switch I used so I will need a new black bottom cover and I will cut another hole. It is definitely not as deep as the other switch I have so that's even better!

    I will wire this up and test it - once I know it works I will get another console and swap it out. Sucks about that - gotta take the wheel of again just to change the console!

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    ooh that is a tidy little switch.


    today was cold enough and had my parked around front of the house (in the back the sun preheats the wheel) so I noticed my wheel turning the heat on and off, never got as hot as it does in my moms V90CC, but could tell when it was warming and when it wasn't. So if this doesn't work it may end up being fine to just run off the heated seat switch.. or both, the option for both would be neat.
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris86vw View Post
    ooh that is a tidy little switch.


    today was cold enough and had my parked around front of the house (in the back the sun preheats the wheel) so I noticed my wheel turning the heat on and off, never got as hot as it does in my moms V90CC, but could tell when it was warming and when it wasn't. So if this doesn't work it may end up being fine to just run off the heated seat switch.. or both, the option for both would be neat.
    stop talking, right now.


    that is a great idea.

    The only problem is I have had times in the past where I want the seats on, but not the wheel. just like you said above - sitting in the sun and the wheel is warm - or - after standing in a hockey rink for 3 hours in the summer and then wanting the heated seats to warm my body but I don't need the wheel.
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Ok, getting ready to put this switch in but I just want to confirm what I'm looking at here.

    This is the BMW wiring for the switch



    I assume Pin 1 is the power coming to the switch. Pin 2 I think is ground, and Pin 3 is the power for Illumination. Is this correct? or is Pin 3 the power in for the switch and Pin 1 is the signal line out to the module to turn the wheel on?

    Here is the switch I wired up



    What has me concerned is which wire to which. On my current setup I have power going to Pin 4, signal line to the relay going out of pin 1 and the illumination wire going to pin 3.

    Can I ignore the ground on the BMW diagram? or must the switch be grounded? If it does, then I think I must run power to Pin 3 on the BMW, Signal to the Relay to Pin 1 and i"ll grab a ground from the column.

    Thoughts?
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    So I tried to do this last night at 10pm when the house was asleep and of course everything goes wrong.

    As I tried to run a ground line down to the switch location, I managed to rip a wire out of the connector, and terminal, that feeds the wheel. I guess the -10 weather didn't help.

    I tried to crimp a new terminal onto the wire and dropped it in the steering column. Fine, whatever, try again.

    Dropped that one too.

    So I went inside and drank Scotch.

    Took everything apart this morning, got my terminals, put the wire back in the connector, and put the car back together.

    I began to finish the install but I didn't have a long enough lead on the wires so I stripped some more. In the process, I ended up pulling all the dies out of the terminals on the BMW connector so I walked away.

    I have more terminals, I have enough wire, but I don't have the proper crimp for such a small terminal.

    I have ordered the tool and will finish this up late next week.

    Something so simple.......I blame the weather.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    I would speculate that

    Pin 1 is ground, pin 2 is output and pin 3 is led + on the bmw switch.
    -dre

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    I would speculate that

    Pin 1 is ground, pin 2 is output and pin 3 is led + on the bmw switch.
    But pin 2 is brown - isn't Brown always ground? Black is power?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    So i looked around and found this:



    I looked up the meanings and LHZ is heated steering wheel and LED+ is the hot feed for the switch itself. This is exactly how I wired it up. Hot line to the LED+, GND to GND, and switched 12V to LHZ. Tried it out and the switch doesn't light up! Dammit! I could have a bad switch, or, the wiring designations are incorrect.

    Any idea?
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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    so I looked into this again last night/this morning and I wasn't sure if I did my connections properly so I redid them all. All the connections into the JST connector are solid. I have put a brown wire in pin 2, and the other 2 wires into pins 1 & 3.

    Here is how I wired it up.



    Still didn't work.

    I turned the key and I have power across pin 1 (blue) and pin 2 (brown). I moved the probe over to pin 3 (purple) and pressed the button and burned up the switch.

    I was under the impression power comes into 1, grounded by 2, and then when you press the switch the power moves over to 3 which lights the LED inside, and sends power to the steering wheel to turn it on. Is that not correct? I don't see how it could be wired any different and I don't think there is anything different in the BMW wiring than ours - even if it tells a module to turn the wheel on or trips a relay, same thing.

    That is what I understood from this diagram

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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings hoganalley's Avatar
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    doing more research, I took the switch apart. After looking at it, I'm pretty sure this is/was a momentary switch as well.



    LOL!

    so I did more research on latched vs momentary switches and I came across this:

    https://youtu.be/M6OUwGikWKg

    This is essentially what I want to do. So I'm thinking of getting a board like this and wiring it up and keep it buried in the column. Anyone have experience with this? I'm sure over thinking this but I love this BMW switch (yes, I'm getting a new one!) and I want to make this work!
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    You can make a latching switch with 2 relays (reset with ignition off), 4 if you want on/off.

    Look on the12volt.com
    -dre



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