Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2018
    AZ Member #
    417963
    Location
    Orange County, CA.

    Oil oozing from the upper timing cover along seal

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    More problems with this car. I have a 2012 B8 A4 with 105k mi. I had the car idilibg the other night and noticed oil oozing out of the upper timing chain seal at the top. Is there supposed to be oil pressure behind this cover? Iím reading conflicting reports online. I know there are some seals around the cover and inside but Iím just not sure I donít have another issue somewhere. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings AFR1485's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 24 2015
    AZ Member #
    364901
    My Garage
    Fiat 500
    Location
    NYC

    Valve cover gaskets needs to be replaced over time. 100k+ miles sounds about right.


    Stage 1 ECU flash : strut tower brace : 4-piston calipers : transmission insert : chassis cross brass : Open Air Intake : axe-back exhaust : rear sway bar w/end-links : vent gauge : weighted shift knob : RS grill : CF spoiler : CF diffuser : Track Brake Pads (for HPDE) : 19Ē flow form wheels w/Summers : 18Ē OEMs w/Winters

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2018
    AZ Member #
    422473
    Location
    Atlanta

    The upper timing chain cover has a rubber gasket sealing it. It's chains not belts, so yes there is oil in that chamber. It's not particularly hard to get off to replace the gasket if it's started leaking air in or oil out. Should be some pics/input in any of the timing chain threads.
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 177k miles

  4. #4
    Registered Member Three Rings Nano909's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 25 2016
    AZ Member #
    377133
    Location
    California

    I had the exact same issue. I just jammed some Hondabond on mine, and hasn't leaked since.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    368804
    Location
    Cambridge Ontario

    yes seals leak from time to time but at 130K my engine was bone dry... so having said that, If I were you I would consider making sure the PCV system is working properly along with a new seal. If you have the original PCV I would consider replacing it anyway.
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik
    2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2018
    AZ Member #
    417963
    Location
    Orange County, CA.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smac770 View Post
    The upper timing chain cover has a rubber gasket sealing it. It's chains not belts, so yes there is oil in that chamber. It's not particularly hard to get off to replace the gasket if it's started leaking air in or oil out. Should be some pics/input in any of the timing chain threads.
    Okay I will replace the cover seal and I was told there is a small seal as well.

    The cover is really close to the radiator and fan assembly, does anyone know if there is enough room to get the cover off without dismantling the entire front of the car? There is only about 2Ē of clearance there. Thanks!

  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    368804
    Location
    Cambridge Ontario

    yes there is a small seal as well for around the adjuster solenoid. That will be very tricky with 2 inches of room.
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik
    2006 A4 2.0TQ 6spd
    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2018
    AZ Member #
    422473
    Location
    Atlanta

    I would move the lock carrier out to the service position. You can probably get it done without, but there's no value in being able to say you got it done the hard way.
    Moving the lock carrier out is not that hard; take off the bumper cover, remove two bolts and replace them with the guide pins, remove a half dozen more bolts and screws, pull the coolant tank out of it's spot, slide it all forward. I'm sure there's a video on youtube of how to do that.

    You think yeah, there's no replace if removed bolts for once, but then they go and stick that o-ring in there. The rubber ring in the cover (part 20 in the diagram) is just replace if damaged; it's the o-ring that's part of the cam bridge that has to be replaced I believe, N 9100 0101 (part 35). It's marked "coat with oil before installing" https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...q/636u/103220/

    Note, there's a specific tightening sequence, in case you haven't bothered to get the repair docs off erwin: center right, center left, bottom right, top, bottom left, to 9 Nm. Just like doing a wheel.
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 177k miles

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings shellraider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    365329
    Location
    North Dakota

    I had a similar issue and it was due to the magnetic cam sensor seal, the round puck on the front of the engine. There is a new part to replace the metal one that you may have.

    This bastard:
    2012 Monsoon B8 A4 Avant S-Line Prestige Package Black Optic : APR stage II, OEM Gauge Conversion, OEM Facelift LED Brake lights, OEM RS Interior Door handles, Full Engine Rebuild IE

  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2018
    AZ Member #
    417963
    Location
    Orange County, CA.

    Quote Originally Posted by shellraider View Post
    I had a similar issue and it was due to the magnetic cam sensor seal, the round puck on the front of the engine. There is a new part to replace the metal one that you may have.

    This bastard:
    Thanks! I'm aware of this oring and plan to replace it with the two others. Why does the puck have to be replaced if I have the metal one? Why not just the oring? Did you have any issue getting the cover off with it being so close to the radiator/fan assembly?

  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 30 2018
    AZ Member #
    417963
    Location
    Orange County, CA.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smac770 View Post
    I would move the lock carrier out to the service position. You can probably get it done without, but there's no value in being able to say you got it done the hard way.
    Moving the lock carrier out is not that hard; take off the bumper cover, remove two bolts and replace them with the guide pins, remove a half dozen more bolts and screws, pull the coolant tank out of it's spot, slide it all forward. I'm sure there's a video on youtube of how to do that.

    You think yeah, there's no replace if removed bolts for once, but then they go and stick that o-ring in there. The rubber ring in the cover (part 20 in the diagram) is just replace if damaged; it's the o-ring that's part of the cam bridge that has to be replaced I believe, N 9100 0101 (part 35). It's marked "coat with oil before installing" https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...q/636u/103220/

    Note, there's a specific tightening sequence, in case you haven't bothered to get the repair docs off erwin: center right, center left, bottom right, top, bottom left, to 9 Nm. Just like doing a wheel.
    Thanks for the details here. So if I understand what you are saying you are suggesting removing the front bumper (which I've done before) and moving the radiator to clear the upper timing cover? I suppose I can do this but I'd prefer not to.

    Thanks for confirming the inner oring. I had seen that mentioned in a video and planned to replace it.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings shellraider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    365329
    Location
    North Dakota

    Quote Originally Posted by daughtersA4 View Post
    Thanks! I'm aware of this oring and plan to replace it with the two others. Why does the puck have to be replaced if I have the metal one? Why not just the oring? Did you have any issue getting the cover off with it being so close to the radiator/fan assembly?
    I did not, because the entire engine was out of the car when it was replaced haha. (I had a piston blow its guts out) I'm not sure why the entire part is replaced with an update, wish I could tell you.
    2012 Monsoon B8 A4 Avant S-Line Prestige Package Black Optic : APR stage II, OEM Gauge Conversion, OEM Facelift LED Brake lights, OEM RS Interior Door handles, Full Engine Rebuild IE

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2018
    AZ Member #
    422473
    Location
    Atlanta

    Well, the lock carrier bar, over the radiator, is what's in the way. So the only way it's moving is to slide it forward (lock carrier service position) or remove it. Service position doesn't require any disconnect of coolant or refrigerant lines, so that's the way to go. If I were doing chains, then I'd remove it, as was shown in some other thread (rotating the A/C radiator over the left headlamp so you don't have to mess with refrigerant, etc).
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 177k miles



Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2019 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.