Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 53 of 53
  1. #41
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Quote Originally Posted by zeroskater88 View Post
    Yes, I have a 10 AN Y connector bringing the two together, and from there to the intake. No over pressure valve though. What do you recommend as far as products for a 10 AN over pressure valve?

    Thank you
    034 Motorsports has a billet check/pressure valve for this. Itís from the 1.8T motor. If your using the 1.8T oil filter housing itís really easy install and thereís a ďkitĒ available. Trust me with all your work please put in the valve. I saved mine before shit got really really bad but I did have to re seal the head as it pushed some oil through some places it shouldnít have been pushed out.

    I used this
    https://store.034motorsport.com/brea...p-awv-amu.html
    This is the billet valve
    https://store.034motorsport.com/chec...cv-billet.html

    You likely have alternate options based on the needs to hide things

    This might be better to go between your 2 lines
    https://store.034motorsport.com/brea...-silicone.html
    This might be cheaper and provide a bit more hose options includes the valve
    https://store.034motorsport.com/brea...-silicone.html
    This is a T might be another easy option
    https://store.034motorsport.com/brea...-silicone.html
    Last edited by canadianA4B7; 02-13-2019 at 07:31 AM.

  2. #42
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 04 2011
    AZ Member #
    76443
    Location
    Clayton, CA

    A4 B7 Big turbo/wire tuck/shaved bay

    I have run a direct line (valve cover teed to the crankcase vent) to a catch can that vent back to the intake (post filter, pre turbo) without issue. The faster the air is brought in the more the crankcase is ventilated.

    In what scenario did you find crankcase gasses outpacing your intake? Your blow by gasses and pressure would have to be ridiculous to blow a head gasket.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  3. #43
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2014
    AZ Member #
    144268
    Location
    Orlando, FL

    Quote Originally Posted by rongeur View Post
    I have run a direct line (valve cover teed to the crankcase vent) to a catch can that vent back to the intake (post filter, pre turbo) without issue. The faster the air is brought in the more the crankcase is ventilated.

    In what scenario did you find crankcase gasses outpacing your intake? Your blow by gasses and pressure would have to be ridiculous to blow a head gasket.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Im curious about this as well, my setup is the same as yours.

  4. #44
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Pressure pushed through the sealant on cam cradle NOT head gasket. This was attempted VTA not a properly vacuumed through the intake. I thought using the pressure valve was able to open and VTA which was wrong itís only there to relieve if pressure in the system gets a blockage (frozen catch can) or peculiar overpressure so you donít blow the rear main seal. Luckily the valve was open venting all crank pressure but the head pressure was more then the sealant could hold and not all being released through the valve.

    Your more then welcome to run what you like but the 1.8T system is different then the 2.0T. For proper function the system and to avoid possible future issues Iíd strongly suggest adapting the valve in.

    Mines the same as both of both of yours by looks, and I fucked it up nicely. Iíd strongly suggest you avoid being me.... at all costs no matter what you do, donít be me!

  5. #45
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2014
    AZ Member #
    144268
    Location
    Orlando, FL

    Ill probably splice into the braided line after my Y, use an AN barb adapter fitting to the silicone T you linked, and put the valve in there.


    Thanks for the links & advice buddy

  6. #46
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 04 2011
    AZ Member #
    76443
    Location
    Clayton, CA

    I am not doubting your experience, just seems there is more at play than simple crankcase and valves venting.

    Oil vapors and gasses will build up by sheer nature of escape past the piston rings, especially in a high forced induction application, regardless of 1.8t or 2.0t.

    The 1.8t conversion is strictly the liquid oil pump and filter system. The 2.0 block and 1.8 block are similar, but the oil (fluid) pressure relief valve is located in different spots. The 2.0t oil pump / balance shaft assembly contains the pressure relief valve to bleed off excessive start up and cold engine pressures. The 1.8t se pump has a PRV but is only cracked at very very high pressures and not meant to be the upper pressure regulator. The 1.8t oil housing is what contains the relief valve and bypass to avoid high pressures.

    Converting to 1.8t pump and using the 2.0t plastic oil filter housing gave me very high starting pressures and low idle pressures when warm. I also found one of my main bearings was failing from the start which may explain the lower pressures over time.

    The Skoda housing is designed for the 2.0t block to work with the 1.8t pump. It was designed by a VW race division for rally racing where they needed to get rid of the plastic housing and balance shafts. There is a billet version as well. Mine and the OP is the cast version. The billet version has a horizontal mount for the filter which requires all the hard coolant lines to be relocated.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  7. #47
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Romgeur link yours please. Yours is different from mine.

  8. #48
    Veteran Member Four Rings rongeur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 04 2011
    AZ Member #
    76443
    Location
    Clayton, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    Romgeur link yours please. Yours is different from mine.
    IMG_4378.JPG

    I donít have a link, part was sourced through Issam of IABed parts. He is a great resource for 1.8t conversion and parts not found elsewhere.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    2008 A4 2.0T Quattro 6MT S-Line QGM
    Stage 3 JHM TD05H-R on a fully built motor
    Build Thread

  9. #49
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2014
    AZ Member #
    144268
    Location
    Orlando, FL

    Good info.

    Just FYI I still have the 2.0t pump and did not convert to 1.8t

    But I did cut out the balance shafts

  10. #50
    Registered User Four Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 26 2006
    AZ Member #
    10540
    My Garage
    Over 20! too many plant pots!
    Location
    Earth

    Hi Everyone,
    Rule of thumb for 06F Oil Pump solutions & Oil Filter housing

    GOOD:
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + 1.8T Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + Skoda S2000 Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + 1.8T Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + Skoda S2000 Oil filter housing
    • 1.8T Oil Pump conversion (requires drilling and tapping the block in 2 locations) + 1.8T Oil filter housing


    BAD :
    • 1.8T Oil Pump conversion (requires drilling and tapping the block in 2 locations) + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing

    Basically any conversion that blocks off the oil return channel in the 06F block (where the 3rd 1.8T oil pump bolt goes) and does not regulate oil pressure then you will have issues.


    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    Iíd strongly suggest adapting the valve in.
    What you are referring to is a 1-way valve for crankcase pressure which is standard if you are venting back into your system USING OE PARTS. Most catch cans act as this as there is nowhere for the fums to go once the hit the can.
    As for your issues , I would wager they are completely unrelated to either oil pressure or crankcase pressure.

  11. #51
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 10 2012
    AZ Member #
    87997
    My Garage
    parts
    Location
    Napanee, ON

    Quote Originally Posted by Wizard-of-OD View Post
    Hi Everyone,
    Rule of thumb for 06F Oil Pump solutions & Oil Filter housing

    GOOD:
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + 1.8T Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump (if its good , leave it) + Skoda S2000 Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + 1.8T Oil filter housing
    • 06F Oil Pump w/ balance shafts removed and channels plugged + Skoda S2000 Oil filter housing
    • 1.8T Oil Pump conversion (requires drilling and tapping the block in 2 locations) + 1.8T Oil filter housing


    BAD :
    • 1.8T Oil Pump conversion (requires drilling and tapping the block in 2 locations) + 06F Plastic Oil filter housing

    Basically any conversion that blocks off the oil return channel in the 06F block (where the 3rd 1.8T oil pump bolt goes) and does not regulate oil pressure then you will have issues.



    What you are referring to is a 1-way valve for crankcase pressure which is standard if you are venting back into your system USING OE PARTS. Most catch cans act as this as there is nowhere for the fums to go once the hit the can.
    As for your issues , I would wager they are completely unrelated to either oil pressure or crankcase pressure.

    No mention of dry dump systems? Pretty sure thatís the next adventure for some of us.

  12. #52
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 25 2015
    AZ Member #
    366301
    My Garage
    1984_VW_Rabbit_GTI
    Location
    North_Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    No mention of dry dump systems? Pretty sure thatís the next adventure for some of us.
    And the "Poor man's balance shaft delete" for financially challenged people, like me.
    2007 B7 A4 2.0t Quattro APR Stage 3

  13. #53
    Veteran Member Four Rings viziers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27 2007
    AZ Member #
    15172
    My Garage
    2005.5 A4 2.0T
    Location
    NC

    So maybe my build is a unicorn but I have done away with the balance shafts oil pump and went with the 1.8t oil pump AND the stock oil filter housing and at warm idle my oil pressure is at 22 psi and while at cruising speed of 2.5 to 3k rpm my oil pressure is at 60 to 75 psi if memory serves me correctly as I have not driven the car in some time as I have been doing a bunch of maint work.

    vizi
    05.5 B7 A4 longest running with no motor issues at 373whp

    Car:Custom JRP Mani & DP, GT3076, FWD to AWD conversion, IE 144/20, Wossner 83.5mm 9.2:1Cr, CM FX400, Ported Head Ferrea valves, EJ VC, EJ S3 Dv Flange, Custom STASIS Exh, Precision 600hp FMIC, RS4 injec, Tial 38mm, 034 SD mounts, Apikol Rear Diff, RS4 Sway, APR Snub Mnt, DO 4 port w/m direct inject, HPFPUpgrade 142bar PRV & StgII HPFP, 1.8 oil pump conv, Crnk dowel pin
    Absolute Automotive Tuned to 373+awhp @23.5psi (Corrected)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2019 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.