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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Jun 02 2017
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    Denver

    Think I threw off the timing

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    I have a 2004 1.8T A4. I bought the car a year ago at about 45,000 miles, and put almost 15k on it since then, original timing belt was still on it and was looking very worn, cracked, and loose especially with being in the desert. So I ordered a gates timing belt kit, new coolant, and a new coolant bleeder valve as the old one was leaking. This would be my second timing belt job, first was on a 97 A4 2.8, which at this point was a lot easier in my opinion.

    I removed the bumper and put it in service position without swinging the whole carrier forward, just slightly pulled forward. Removed the timing covers, pulley, etc. after looking around a bit online, I found a lot of controversy over how to remove the belt and different methods everywhere. What I ended up doing was rotating the crank clockwise till it reached TDC at the cam marks. Then marked the cam and belt with nail polish, and marked the crank sprocket with the engine block, stupid of me thinking back to not mark the belt at the crank. Then removed the bolts to the hydraulic tensioner and removed the belt. Removing the water pump was a PITA, but I got it out with a lot of prying. During the cleaning of the pump housing the nail polish on the crank washed off, so I remarked it. I replaced the tensioner and pulley, and put the pump in by slowly turning each bolt till it fully went in.

    I noticed the crank moved over slightly counter clockwise, so I slowly moved it back into place, then put the new belt on, the crank definitely moved at least 1 or 2 teeth counter clockwise, I took the belt off and turned it clockwise back to my marks I made, and tried again, but it moves every single time I put the belt on. And now the cam looks to be off counter clockwise about 1/2 tooth. At this point I’ve taken a break and am doing a lot of research before moving forward. But there’s so much information and everyone has different opinions, I’m not sure what to do from here. Setting the correct tension is confusing to me still. I know the space between the pulley and tensioner needs to be 6-10 mm, so 8mm is good. But the order of the steps in which that needs to be achieved confuse me. I saw someone say to offset the timing by two teeth clockwise on the crank because of the tensioner, but not sure if this is what I need to do. I also cannot find the marks for TDC on the crank timing cover, I see it on the pulley but not the cover. If I mess up the timing after pulling the plate from the tensioner do I need to buy another tensioner to fix the timing, or can it be saved and used again?

    Thanks for any help, it’s my daily driver and wanna get this done ASAP!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    This may help: Clicky click.

    And yes you can reuse the tensioner. Just slowly (a minute or two) compress the tensioner and put the locking plate back in.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 24 2010
    AZ Member #
    64817
    Location
    Costa Mesa, SoCal

    There is a very similar thread on this in the B5 section currently. Assuming you got the hydraulic tensioner setup, it's exactly the same as in this thread:
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ustment-how-to
    2001.5 S4 Avant: JHM shifter, 3" exhaust, Stage 1, APR bipipe, lowered, receiving lots of love ($$$)

    2001.5 A4 1.8TQM: so many upgrades. Parting out.

    2001 Corvette (C5) Z06: just getting started

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring
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    Jun 02 2017
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    So I had a look over that thread and the ECS tuning guide and gave it a try. The tensioner extended way to far, so I tried to compress it slowly while still on the car using the Allen hole on the pulley. I heard a pop noise and stopped. So I took the tensioner off and slowly compressed it using a c clamp and tried again. This time I got the tension perfect at 8mm. Rotated the engine twice and the crank was miss timed by a tooth in the clockwise direction, ahhh, so again I took the tensioner off, compressed it, rotated the crank a tooth back to TDC. Now the belt is so tight it will not go on. I took the pulley off and looked at it, and I think I broke it trying to compress the tensioner will it was still on the car. The Allen key slot looks miss aligned, and it doesnt move as freely as it did originally. Should I order a new pulley at this point or just force it on and give it a try?

  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring
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    Jun 02 2017
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    Denver

    Not sure how to post images on here, but heres a pic of the pulley with the misaligned alen hole. http://imgur.com/YHXBR2k
    http://imgur.com/oHjPBut

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
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    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Do yourself a big favor and ditch the old style tensioner and replace it with the updated Litens style tensioner. You can reuse everything you currently have with the exception the roller that you are struggling with. It is a much better arrangement. All the information you need should be in this thread: Clicky click
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  7. #7
    Active Member One Ring
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    Jun 02 2017
    AZ Member #
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Do yourself a big favor and ditch the old style tensioner and replace it with the updated Litens style tensioner. You can reuse everything you currently have with the exception the roller that you are struggling with. It is a much better arrangement. All the information you need should be in this thread: Clicky click
    Thank you, I was considering getting the updated version when I was ordering the parts, but decided against after seeing people say its only necessary if youre modding or staging your car. But at this point Im sick of this hydraulic setup. So looking at that link, Id need part number 06A109243A for the roller. I can reuse the roller from the hydraulic tensioner by basically pulling out the piston portion of the assembly right?

    Then when setting the tension its as simple as using an Allen socket, turning clockwise till an 8mm space is achieved, then tightening down the nut on the roller to torque spec right? Looks like the same tensioner my 97 2.8 used when I did that timing job.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    You can reuse the current hydraulic tensioner by simply removing the piston portion. You set the Litens tensioner by preloading the clockspring inside the roller assembly. It comes with instructions and is very simple to execute. No need to measure any gaps. Clicky click
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 10 2015
    AZ Member #
    341595
    Location
    Colorado

    I highly recommend the Litens tensioner. So easy to install (not that the the old style is that hard, but can be confusing the first time) and seems to be a much better design. Since you are in Denver, order it from RM European and select local pickup down in Littleton. Best pricing that I could find. I've done three of these now with the new style, and several with the old.



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