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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings Collie's Avatar
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    Normal buildup for a catch can?

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    Hey folks,

    Usually get some scummy mayo and water in the catchcan. Just wondering is it normal to have such a buildup in the pipes? On the car about 9 months. Never took the hoses off before, just twisted the can off and emptied it.

    Usual commute 15km 20 min with lots of longer drives at weekends. Vancouver Canada so moisture central in the winter.

    Cheers! 20181110_121533.jpeg20181110_121849.jpeg20181110_122032.jpeg

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  2. #2
    Established Member Four Rings
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    Be careful running a catch can in a cold weather climate. 😉
    2005.5 A4 Avant: JHM K04R, GIAC K04 tune, NGK BKR8EIX plugs, RS4 PRV, RS4 fuel pump controller, Treadstone TR6 intercooler core with JHM pipe kit, CTS Turbo test pipe, ECS Tuning snub mount, 034 street tranny mount, 034 street motor mounts, ECS Tuning turbo inlet pipe, ECS Tuning RA4 clutch conversion, Billy Boat Stealth cat back, Fluidampr

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    Be careful running a catch can in a cold weather climate. 😉
    Agree . CC will freeze up in a heart beat causing issue's
    APR KO4, APR HPFP,RS4 LPFP Cntr,145 bar PRV, APR TP, TT DP, GFB DV+, AWE FMIC, BFI CC, AWE Exhaust, RS4 Exh tips, ST CO, 034 RSB,034 St Dnsty Mtr Mts, New Sth West Bst guage, B7 RS4 8 pot Calipers.Stop Tech slotted rotors.Goodridge SS brake lines frt & rr. Hawk HPS frt & rr. RS4 PS rack, RS4 Servotronic Relay,RS4 rims. S4 mirror caps,DTM frt bmpr and rs4 fogs,LED tail lites
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    no real benefit to running a catch can other than cosmetics in my humble opinion, no real impact on carbon build up and takes a properly engineered pcv system out of the equation.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings apatchin's Avatar
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    that build up is pretty normal, and you should check it every week in the NW winters depending on how much your driving and the exposure to colder temps. Sometimes I have none other times i have quite a bit of watery goodness. I have never really cleared my lines but your making think i should check next time.

    Also not sure if there is "no real benefit"? but im not going to stay up trying to convince you otherwise.
    08 Ibis 2.0TQ MT A4 Avant / Titanium / KO4

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings texasboy21's Avatar
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    A catch can is better than a "delete" correct?
    2005.5 A4 2.0t FSI quattro

    Borg Warner EFR 6758, Pag Parts intake/FMIC/manifold/downpipe, Eurodyne Boost Manager Plus, Eurodyne Maestro, StopTech 332mm BBK, Stasis Touring suspension

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvolutionArmory View Post
    Be careful running a catch can in a cold weather climate. 😉
    yep.

    I had to relocate the CC way lower so the lines going down only (no p-trap).

    And on winter, there's way more water accumulation.
    2 options :

    - if your car sleep in a heated garage, empty it often.
    - if not, get yourself a little drain plug with a valve in the bottom and leave it open on cold days. not ideal for pollution, but surely less worst than having engine issues and massive oil consumption.



  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings nizmosx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet08 View Post
    no real benefit to running a catch can other than cosmetics in my humble opinion, no real impact on carbon build up and takes a properly engineered pcv system out of the equation.
    agreed... especially on a stock turbo car.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings griga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
    A catch can is better than a "delete" correct?
    Pretty sure that's the general consensus, but I remember seeing a guy that had almost 300k miles and ran a block off plate. I'm happy with my catch can however.
    Silver 2008 A4 2.0T - Debadged | Cupra R Lip | 034 SD Motor Mounts | 034 Snub | 034 CC | Stock Airbox Mod | Peeler Reps |
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by griga View Post
    Pretty sure that's the general consensus, but I remember seeing a guy that had almost 300k miles and ran a block off plate. I'm happy with my catch can however.
    When you guys speak of a "delete" and a "block off plate" exactly what kind of system are you referring to?
    I assume a "delete" means you are deleting the PCV valve which raises the question whether you delete the check valve in the front breather tube to the pre-TC port, which is part of the crankcase venting system. What do you put in place of the PCV valve?
    And does a "block off plate" also delete the PCV valve? in which case what do you do with crankcase pressure and the tube coming from the primary oil separator?

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings griga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brillo View Post
    When you guys speak of a "delete" and a "block off plate" exactly what kind of system are you referring to?
    I assume a "delete" means you are deleting the PCV valve which raises the question whether you delete the check valve in the front breather tube to the pre-TC port, which is part of the crankcase venting system. What do you put in place of the PCV valve?
    And does a "block off plate" also delete the PCV valve? in which case what do you do with crankcase pressure and the tube coming from the primary oil separator?
    I donít have any experience with a block off plate since Iíve read of a lot of people having problems. It looks like it just blocks everything besides the rear-most oil separator tube. Not sure on what else is changed to make it work.

    Drake has an old thread where he changed the entire PCV system and blocked off the front breather tube completely and it seemed to work fine.

    I do know with the catch can, knocking out the check valve in the front breather tube does no harm besides getting rid of an annoying noise.

    Thatís all I really know.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Being some fancy Germans designed a system that is a loop deleting or blocking items likely isnít a good plan. I likely have the most basic system out there and it works phenomenal. Iíve had the catch can freeze in the past went to move car from one storage to another and blew out turbo seals over a 3km drive. Pushed out 3 litres of oil as well. Luckily thatís all that was destroyed for my bad decision to not drain it b4 parking. So up here in Canada Iíll advise to swap over to stock PCV for winter or buy some heat trace cable and make yourself a catch can heater that will thaw the frozen can and help you from future destruction.

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings griga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    Being some fancy Germans designed a system that is a loop deleting or blocking items likely isnít a good plan. I likely have the most basic system out there and it works phenomenal. Iíve had the catch can freeze in the past went to move car from one storage to another and blew out turbo seals over a 3km drive. Pushed out 3 litres of oil as well. Luckily thatís all that was destroyed for my bad decision to not drain it b4 parking. So up here in Canada Iíll advise to swap over to stock PCV for winter or buy some heat trace cable and make yourself a catch can heater that will thaw the frozen can and help you from future destruction.
    Assuming you arenít referring to the stock PCV system, whatís your setup?


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    Being some fancy Germans designed a system that is a loop deleting or blocking items likely isnít a good plan. I likely have the most basic system out there and it works phenomenal. Iíve had the catch can freeze in the past went to move car from one storage to another and blew out turbo seals over a 3km drive. Pushed out 3 litres of oil as well. Luckily thatís all that was destroyed for my bad decision to not drain it b4 parking. So up here in Canada Iíll advise to swap over to stock PCV for winter or buy some heat trace cable and make yourself a catch can heater that will thaw the frozen can and help you from future destruction.
    Yes, this would be my concern. Alternatively, I also am concerned with folks altering the system without fully understanding what they are doing and potentially damaging their engines. Lastly, my concern would be with some modifications allowing the venting of blow-by gasses to atmosphere. I'm old enough to remember flying into Los Angeles LAX and being almost unable to see downtown through the smog.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by griga View Post
    Assuming you arenít referring to the stock PCV system, whatís your setup?


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    Custom made. Minimal items all fuction no nonsense. Air needs to be pulled out of the crank and out of the head through an industrial air/oil separator made to remove as much shit as possible, all of this MUST be pulled and removed from motor. VTA does no PULL anything out of the crank case it only allows gasses to escape when they feel. Many are likely wondering ďwtf thereís no pressure release valveĒ but there is itís hidden down low on the crank case hose coming up behind the coolant tank. I did this cause itís stupid simple and correctly functioning. Mine cannot block the passages as they are all at the highest point of the ďcatch canĒ and itís see through so no guessing whatís in there or how much. Rated for 150psi. The ďkissĒ theory in full effect on this one.



  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings griga's Avatar
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    that setup is awesome props to you

    i may have questions in the future if i ever decide to do something similar


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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Thank you. Ask away Iíll do my best to answer.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    canadianA4B7 Looks good but have two questions. With the billet VC, which would eliminate the secondary oil separator (for what it's worth), it appears that the line from the primary oil separator T's with the VC breather and goes to the CC which then goes over to the intake just after the air cleaner. Do you get significant amount of condensate in the CC, and do you have any concerns about the whatever makes it past the CC going into the intake system prior to the MAF and maybe buggering it up? From the photo it looks pre-MAF anyway.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    The air oil separator eliminates more then you might think. Itís able to remove 90% or or more oil/water from the system I have not yet pulled IC off to see if anything is in there. The system is vacuumed AFTER the maf, my maf is literally inside the filter Iíve not had a cell or anything from this setup. Yes the lines are somewhat close to the filter/maf but I have plenty of vacuum on the system. The lines pulled from the crank and VC are both 3/4Ē and the vac is 1Ē After the separator. start up vac is 17/18 inHg, after warm idle is about 22 inHg from what Iíve read this is very good for this type of built motor.

    I figured the oem system is using a number of ďseparatorsĒ so rather then use a ďcanĒ which in theory has very little separating capabilities (think back to the older days of engine build where a can of Allanís apple juice was used to catch unwanted vapours). Why not open the industrial instrumentation catalog and order something fancy from Parker......

  20. #20
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brillo View Post
    When you guys speak of a "delete" and a "block off plate" exactly what kind of system are you referring to?
    I assume a "delete" means you are deleting the PCV valve which raises the question whether you delete the check valve in the front breather tube to the pre-TC port, which is part of the crankcase venting system. What do you put in place of the PCV valve?
    And does a "block off plate" also delete the PCV valve? in which case what do you do with crankcase pressure and the tube coming from the primary oil separator?
    Deletes the pcv valve. Ya don't take off check valve. All the pressure goes out that side, instead of there and into intake(depending if vac or boost). Does not help with carbon, but eliminates problems with these scrappy pcv valves.

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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings texasboy21's Avatar
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    I have a modified system at the moment and I believe it can be revamped to function as good or better than the OEM configuration. Currently however, with prolonged idling or periods of no boost (sitting in stop and go traffic for example) I feel as if I have excessive crankcase pressure. I also think I may have high amounts of condensation in my catch can..

    034 PCV plate
    42DD catch can
    Early valve cover - I have not pulled it to check for cracks
    Factory inlet pipe without check valve



    2005.5 A4 2.0t FSI quattro

    Borg Warner EFR 6758, Pag Parts intake/FMIC/manifold/downpipe, Eurodyne Boost Manager Plus, Eurodyne Maestro, StopTech 332mm BBK, Stasis Touring suspension

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Looks like a very traditional CC setup to me. The PCV valve is eliminated, the line to the IM is gone and the IM port is capped (so no vacuum of blow-by gas under no to low boost conditions, the the plate retains the line from the primary oil separator into the crankcase, and all blow-by gas is diverted (via the cc) into the front pre-TC breather.



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