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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 21 2018
    AZ Member #
    421051
    Location
    Alabama

    Tiptronic shifter cable bracket bolts

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    While pulling my engine for the timing service, the only bolt I snapped was on the automatic transmission housing. It was where the bracket guiding the shifter cable to the shift lever on the transmission was attached with two small 10 mm bolts. I have had a terrible time trying to identify the part number of those bolts, to replace them (once my buddy removes the shaft of the snapped-off one) with a little anti-seize this time. Does anyone know how to identify the two small 10mm hex bolts that attach the bracket to the transmission just aft of the ball and socket shifter connection?

    It was in a horrible place to try take a picture in situ, obscured behind something else (which also made them a joy to remove) and as I said I haven't been able to find it on a diagram. I was at my local Audi dealership today, and they weren't much help, but commiserated about the difficulty of identifying parts on cars before about 2013. At least I feel it's not just me. Here's an opportunity for someone to be a hero.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    I swapped my car to a manual and still have all the automatic stuff... is there something you need? Pic?

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 21 2018
    AZ Member #
    421051
    Location
    Alabama

    Yes, I need these bolts, or at least one of them:

    bolts10mm.jpg

    They attach this bracket

    bracket.jpg

    to the transmission here, where you can see the rest of the short bolt protruding from its hole in the center of the photo

    attach.jpg

  4. #4
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    You should be able to go to a local hardware store and get those exact bolts...

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 21 2018
    AZ Member #
    421051
    Location
    Alabama

    Quote Originally Posted by VinnysS4 View Post
    You should be able to go to a local hardware store and get those exact bolts...
    That's usually an option to get similar bolts, but I always wonder about exact. Sometimes the alloy makes a difference, and sometimes it doesn't really. I'm not confident about knowing which situation is which, and so I am making an effort to find out the part number or get the exact bolts.

    My car was short two of the little bolts that fastened the coilpack harness to the valve covers, too. Admittedly, that's a lower criticality application than the transmission shifter cable bracket.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    I understand. Does the head of the bolt have any markings or numbers? They look like they have Some numbers. 8.8? Those would be the grade of bolt and readily available at any Ace Hardware store or even Home Depot. Some parts are infact exact and some are generic bolts. Like take the oil pan bolts, they are just regular ol hardware store bolts. 10.9 I think. Maybe they were 8.8. Either way, in my opinion, a bolt of the same grade, thread pattern(probably a 8mm)And length would be just as good if not better than OEM bolts.
    Best of luck. I doubt mine are still in the side of the transmission but I will look.
    Vinny

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 21 2018
    AZ Member #
    421051
    Location
    Alabama

    Quote Originally Posted by VinnysS4 View Post
    I understand. Does the head of the bolt have any markings or numbers? They look like they have Some numbers. 8.8? Those would be the grade of bolt and readily available at any Ace Hardware store or even Home Depot. Some parts are infact exact and some are generic bolts. Like take the oil pan bolts, they are just regular ol hardware store bolts. 10.9 I think. Maybe they were 8.8. Either way, in my opinion, a bolt of the same grade, thread pattern(probably a 8mm)And length would be just as good if not better than OEM bolts.
    Best of luck. I doubt mine are still in the side of the transmission but I will look.
    Vinny
    Thanks for the tip! They are marked with 8.8, one with W.T and the other with DERA, as best as I can make out with the tiny font.

    I found some class 8.8 bolts at Lowe's, M6-1.00 x 10, that look very much the same, except clean. $0.92 plus tax for four of them. I was a bit surprised, since finding metric parts in a general purpose store in Alabama is not always to be expected.

    No joy on the coilpack harness screws, though, either in finding an equivalent or finding the part number. The thread is much coarser on those.

    And I've got some homework to do on learning about the class markings. I've already seen some warnings that they are sometimes counterfeited, but I don't think my application here is very critical. Timing system bolts, or the front axle bolts, though, I might be concerned about getting those from a non-specialist source.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
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    Location
    Oregon

    Quote Originally Posted by NALS4 View Post
    Thanks for the tip! They are marked with 8.8, one with W.T and the other with DERA, as best as I can make out with the tiny font.

    I found some class 8.8 bolts at Lowe's, M6-1.00 x 10, that look very much the same, except clean. $0.92 plus tax for four of them. I was a bit surprised, since finding metric parts in a general purpose store in Alabama is not always to be expected.

    No joy on the coilpack harness screws, though, either in finding an equivalent or finding the part number. The thread is much coarser on those.

    And I've got some homework to do on learning about the class markings. I've already seen some warnings that they are sometimes counterfeited, but I don't think my application here is very critical. Timing system bolts, or the front axle bolts, though, I might be concerned about getting those from a non-specialist source.
    Sweet! Yeah most bolts are going to have a basic "generic" equivalent, however, some bolts are TTY(torque to yeild) and some just plain dumb looking and require specific bolts. Like the camshaft retainer bolts. They look like a normal T30 bolt but they're a TTY bolt and require replacement when loosened.
    There is another option for you on the valve cover screws. Why not just tap them with a common thread and use different hardware? As long as you mark the depth of your drill and tap, you should be fine. Those are not a critical fastener. Just needs something to hold it in place incase it works itself loose.

    I wouldn't worry too much about fake fasteners from home depot. Maybe off eBay, but you have to think of it this way... No small company is going to go out of their way to fake a couple Audi bolts that are deffinately not in high demand or a high ticket item. Just my .02c
    Best of luck to ya.

    Btw.. the screws look closer to a wood screw than a machine screw if I remember correctly...
    Vinny

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"



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