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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Never ending disaster - looking for some suggestions

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    Before I start, this is not one of those "should I cut my losses and sell my S4?" threads. I'm stubborn as hell, I like the B6 S4 even though mine infuriates me, and the point of making "financially sensible" decisions was passed long ago (possibly the day I bought the car, to be honest). This is also not a thread about timing chain guides.

    I bought my B6 early in 2015 from a shop that had performed the timing service. As I came to discover, just about everything they did to the car was a mess and I had to redo all of it. I won't cover 3.5 years of work done but there has been a lot (all DIY). Highlights include everyone's favorite AC compressor (and everything else) job, H&R coilovers, 034 control arms, JHM short shifter, and tons of maintenance items and various repairs including stupid stuff like replacing the driver's seat leather which was torn. Basically, I have put a lot of time toward ironing out just about every part of this car except as I am about to describe, the engine block.

    After driving the car for a bit I found that it was burning a quart of oil every 400 miles. I compression tested it and all cylinders were well within spec. One bank was lower than the other, but not by a substantial amount. I replaced PCV, resealed the leaky valley pan, and did all the other usual stuff and the oil consumption did not change. I finally got around to buying a borescope and found severe scoring in several cylinders.

    I bought a used shortblock with no scoring from a member of this forum and did the Sunnen AN-30 paste lapping process that has been described and performed by several members of the forum, getting visually good results. I put new rings in, resealed everything, replaced all the timing parts including the adjusters just for the hell of it, had the heads rebuilt in the meantime (the valve guides were described as "very bad" by the machine shop), and installed B7 clutch/flywheel, JHM headers and FI exhaust all at the same time. Put it all back together, filled with CONVENTIONAL Castrol GTX 10W40 on the staunch recommendation of many people to NEVER EVER break in an engine on synthetic oil, and then did a proper break-in drive for about 25 miles with varied RPM and load. Drained oil, filled again with conventional with the plan to use that until about 1500 miles.

    Drove it very properly with warmup and cooldown and no idiotic behavior. Changed oil at 500 miles, checking level once in a while and not finding anything really noteworthy. Then it suddenly decided to start using a quart every 300 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 0W40 synthetic and the consumption went down to a quart every 900 or so. Better than my old engine, but not great for a freshly rebuilt one. Finally, especially as the car seemed lacking on power, I did a compression test (had not done one since the rebuild to avoid false readings from an engine still breaking in) and got absolutely terrible results.

    85 psi on one cylinder, 100 on 2 others, 130 (the wear limit) on a 4th, and then normal 150+ on the other 4. I redid the test on the 85 and 100 cylinders with a bit of oil for a wet test and got jumps to 150 and 180, respectively...clear indication of compression ring failure.

    So here's where I am. I have a "rebuilt" shortblock with less than 5k miles on it that's basically a paperweight, but surrounded by brand new peripherals. I don't know if any of the low pressure cylinders are scored but I would not be surprised. My theory, which could be completely bogus, is that the conventional oil was a huge mistake, it was thinning out at high temp and burning, and ultimately coked the rings on 4 cylinders. Alternatively, or maybe in addition, it's possible that I did not do the AN-30 paste lapping procedure ENOUGH even though it was visually good (dull finish), and the rings were unable to seat.

    On the plus side, I estimate I really only wasted a couple thousand on that ordeal because all the peripheral stuff (headers, clutch, etc) is still perfectly fine and can be used with whatever I come up with to fix this.

    1) I could re-rebuild the engine and "hope" it works better this time. That's not an attractive option considering the effort required to perform the rebuild and the fact that I have no concrete evidence to support my theory of what went wrong.

    2) I could buy another used shortblock with no scoring and good compression and NOT rebuild it. The two problems there are finding such an engine in the first place, and the fact that any used engine is going to have reduced ring life so I would kind of be shortchanging myself by installing it.

    3) I could buy a brand new shortblock. Problems there are that I don't even know if you can buy them anymore, and considering that these engines seem to crap out if you even breathe on them wrong (obviously I have a personal bias and I realize plenty of BHF's are running around without issue), I'm reticent to spend 6-8k on a new engine only to have it potentially fail, although I'm sure the chances are much, much lower in that situation since I would ASSUME Audi's replacement shortblocks have already had factory break-in performed.

    What do you guys think? Is there a 4th (or 5th..) option that I'm not thinking of? And does anyone happen to have a good compression, non oil burning BHF they'd love to trade me for a wad of cash?

    -Alex

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    this is your option, i had kinda the same situation....ive spend tremendous amount of money fixing it.....at the end, this would be the best option.


    [URL="https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AUDI-S4-04-05-4-2L-V8-ENGINE-W-ECU-BRAIN-BOX-ID-BHF-TESTED/263982498714?hash=item3d7695439a:g:LK8AAOSwSVdbvPi z:rk:10:pf:0"]
    Stock Audi A4 B7 V6 3.0 TDI Quattro....

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Thanks for the reply. My main concern with that route is that all these used eBay engines say "tested" which I presume means they know it will turn over and run, but there aren't any compression numbers and certainly no borescope images or oil consumption records to go along with it. It's kind of like, out of the frying pan and into the fire at that point if you end up with another oil burner. However, if I could buy from someone who can vouch for the condition of the engine, then I would surely not be opposed to that option.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Sounds like a BNS swap is in your future. Or does any one know if the 4.0t motor will fit? If you're going to swap might as well go balls out

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Blackstallion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottocycle View Post
    Sounds like a BNS swap is in your future. Or does any one know if the 4.0t motor will fit? If you're going to swap might as well go balls out
    That;d be sweet - Just a guess but have you seen the engine bay of a b6 with the 4.2 haha

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings BCsniper's Avatar
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    Thereís one for sale in the classifieds but man I feel your pain. Youíve have gone much further into this than about 90% of people would have done. Most people would have thrown in the towel and sold the car off several thousands of dollars ago. Whatever you choose good luck to you, as I know any option is pretty painful to do at this point

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    SO, having rebuilt my motor with aftermarket pistons and rings and breaking it in using the good ole "Motoman Method" which is much more aggressive that what you described, i'm at a loss as to how you would run into issues. Hell my first 13miles were with walmart supertech 10w-30 then i switched to GTX 10w40. Ran it for a good 3500miles before switching to Mobil 1.

    Yes your piston/wall clearance is tight and yes, the piston ring gaps are tight per OEM spec, however, this still shouldn't have occurred.

    The block needs to be torn down to ascertain what really happened.

    In reality you wasted the cost of rings, head gaskets, head bolts and rod bolts.
    Last edited by q_dubz; 10-10-2018 at 10:22 AM.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Another option is a C5 or D3 4.2 V8 40V swap. 077-series timing belt engines.

    Pros:

    Better piston skirt-to-cylinder bore clearance.
    More reliable timing assembly.
    Conventional air con compressor drive (front belt).
    Easily accessible front timing gear.
    A robust, more proven design, spanning 17 years (1988-2005).
    Has Motorsport pedigree (Audi D11 V8 quattro / C3 200 quattro DTM series).

    Cons:

    Longer block.
    Harness requires modification to run in 8E chassis.

    The later 079-series chain-driven V8 engines are one of Audiís modern day disasters. I would even opt for a Lexus 1UZ motor over an Audi 079, itís that bad a design.
    His:
    2003 B6 Audi A4 Avant Quattro Sport | 3.0 V6 | 6MT | Denim Blue Pearl | B6 S4 ďBlack OptikĒ Grille | Votex Kit | Black Leather - Part Out.

    2012 B7 Seat Exeo ST Sport Tech | 2.0 TDI | 6MT | Phantom Black Pearl | LED DRLís | Bi-Xenons | LED Tails | LED RNS-E | AUX / iPod Input | Black Leather | Multi-Function Steering Wheel | Rear PDC.

    Hers:
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    SO, having rebuilt my motor with aftermarket pistons and rings and breaking it in using the good ole "Motoman Method" which is much more aggressive that what you described, i'm at a loss as to how you would run into issues. Hell my first 13miles were with walmart supertech 10w-30 then i switched to GTX 10w40. Ran it for a good 3500miles before switching to Mobil 1.

    Yes your piston/wall clearance is tight and yes, the piston ring gaps are tight per OEM spec, however, this still shouldn't have occurred.

    The block needs to be torn down to ascertain what really happened.

    In reality you wasted the cost of rings, head gaskets, head bolts and rod bolts.
    Yeah, I actually used that as reference for my break-in method. I didn't push it past 5500 RPM during the break-in but I wasn't gentle with it either and I made sure to vary RPM and load as much as I could. Fortunately I was driving country backroads at night so it was fairly easy to do that. The biggest problem during the break-in drive was a single missed coolant hose clamp on the crossover tube that started puking coolant everywhere so i had to stop a couple of times and check on that.

    You're right about the things I wasted money on (the OEM rings being stupidly costly) but I suspect the entire shortblock itself was a sunk cost because I would not be surprised if it's scored to all hell now. Fortunately because I bought it used, it wasn't too big of an expense.

    No matter what I do, I will surely tear the block down to see what happened, but I'd like to have a course of action before I pull the motor and just leave the car sitting in pieces. For now it's driveable although my desire to drive a gutless low compression dog is pretty limited. At least it sounds nice...

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Thanks for everyone who has responded so far. I totally hear what some of you are saying about the engine being a flawed design (I definitely don't disagree and have read some pretty lengthy discussions on the topic) and a swap to a different engine being the best option, but I would really like to avoid turning my B6 into a long term project car, which is what any kind of major swap is going to be. I already have a B5 S4 that is in "long term project mode" and will have its share of tuning challenges and diagnostic issues when I'm done with it, so keeping a stock powerplant (with bolt-ons) in the B6 is my goal. I believe the BHF engine CAN be pretty solid if the right variables fall into place, but I definitely am finding out how challenging that is. Again, after putting so much effort into ironing out the rest of the car, I'm not ready to give up on it yet or buy a different one that is known to run well, because as with every Audi I have owned, there is always a laundry list of surprises to fix every time you pick one up.

  11. #11
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Two Rings
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    Never ending disaster - looking for some suggestions

    If I understand you correctly you used the old pistons. If so then this maybe the issue as the ring grooves maybe worn and leaking from there/behind the ring. Another thing is to also do a leak down test to see if only the pistons/rings are leaking or valves/gaskets could be contributing. And then of course the tear down is inevitable to see exactly what happened. Sorry to hear about the issues, but Iím impressed with your persistence and sure youíll get it right in the end and learn a ton in the process. Let me know if you need any help.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grigor@Bestiale View Post
    If I understand you correctly you used the old pistons. If so then this maybe the issue as the ring grooves maybe worn and leaking from there/behind the ring. Another thing is to also do a leak down test to see if only the pistons/rings are leaking or valves/gaskets could be contributing. And then of course the tear down is inevitable to see exactly what happened. Sorry to hear about the issues, but Iím impressed with your persistence and sure youíll get it right in the end and learn a ton in the process. Let me know if you need any help.


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    Yes, I reused all the parts of the rotating assembly of the replacement shortblock other than rod bolts and rings. I would tend to doubt that the valvetrain is contributing to any compression losses as the heads are freshly rebuilt with new guides and seals. Also, there is definitely substantial ring blow-by because in the time prior to the compression test I started noticing the dipstick would pop up in the tube after hard driving. It did NOT do this initially so obviously something went wrong along the way.

  13. #13
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Two Rings
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    I see, indeed chances are small that anything else is the problem, however itís always best to check its state now and know for sure. Other than that, the pistons maybe your main issue now.


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Although I may be stating the obvious, the guy who rebuilt your engine clearly stated that your valve guides were worn.

    If that's the case, it would more than account for your oil consumption. Sounds like you need to pull the heads, strip them and get the guides redone. Just be sure to find a shop that's done VW Audi valve guides before. Apparently they're a bloody nightmare. You need to heat the block, pull the old ones out and press the new ones in. You also only have one shot at doing it as well. If you stop part way as you're pressing them in, they can mushroom and they'll tear material out the bore as they press in and then you've binned the heads... .

    That said, if you have the heads apart, I would certainly recommend trying some light porting work. As well, you may want to consider cutting the guides back so as to make them flush with the head. Apparently that generates noticeable airflow increases.

    The other thing you may want to try is dimpling the ports. I've been studying the effect of dimpling on laminar airflow and I'm convinced that a properly dimpled head would make a significant difference. Where dimpled textures make the most difference are in areas where the air takes a change in direction. Since resistance is infinite at the boundary layer (ie where the air touches the port wall), when a fluid changes direction, the resistance increases as the air negotiates the curve and it begins to pile up on itself, eventually detaching from the surface and forming turbulent eddies.

    So basically, dimpling surfaces where adhesion is most critical, such as the short part of the port curve just before the valve will promote laminar airflow and better performance.

    A little off topic, but info worth considering nonetheless.
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZimbutheMonkey View Post
    Although I may be stating the obvious, the guy who rebuilt your engine clearly stated that your valve guides were worn.

    If that's the case, it would more than account for your oil consumption. Sounds like you need to pull the heads, strip them and get the guides redone. Just be sure to find a shop that's done VW Audi valve guides before. Apparently they're a bloody nightmare. You need to heat the block, pull the old ones out and press the new ones in. You also only have one shot at doing it as well. If you stop part way as you're pressing them in, they can mushroom and they'll tear material out the bore as they press in and then you've binned the heads... .

    That said, if you have the heads apart, I would certainly recommend trying some light porting work. As well, you may want to consider cutting the guides back so as to make them flush with the head. Apparently that generates noticeable airflow increases.

    The other thing you may want to try is dimpling the ports. I've been studying the effect of dimpling on laminar airflow and I'm convinced that a properly dimpled head would make a significant difference. Where dimpled textures make the most difference are in areas where the air takes a change in direction. Since resistance is infinite at the boundary layer (ie where the air touches the port wall), when a fluid changes direction, the resistance increases as the air negotiates the curve and it begins to pile up on itself, eventually detaching from the surface and forming turbulent eddies.

    So basically, dimpling surfaces where adhesion is most critical, such as the short part of the port curve just before the valve will promote laminar airflow and better performance.

    A little off topic, but info worth considering nonetheless.
    I don't think you read my post...

    I was the guy who rebuilt the engine.

    The machine shop that was rebuilding my heads told me that the guides they were replacing were worn.

    Everything is new.

    I have bad compression on 4 cylinders.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    The guides were worn on mine as well. Stem-to-guide play was between 1 to 2mm. Max allowable is 0.8mm (per the manual, which could be a typo)...which is a lot considering new spec is around 0.025 to 0.076mm.
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings vailshred's Avatar
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    How do your plugs look? Have you scoped again and are the piston tops wet with oil/carbon?
    I have a hard time understanding the rings and seating process on these engines. Most motors (non aluminum cyl) get a hone with a cross hatch for the rings to wear into. My understanding of the paste is that it actually polishes the walls and removes aluminum and exposes the silicon. There is no real cross hatch for the rings to wear into unless its at a microscopic level.
    I know the time invested is what hurts the most for me. The money is one thing but the time and amount of space needed kills my motivation.
    I personally would continue to try and fix. Soak all cyl's with sea foam for a couple days in hope that it will clean or break up clogged rings, force it through rings with leak down tester. Then change oil and run some high octane gas, run it hard.
    I read a few articles on Bon-Ami. A guy had a porshe motor rebuilt by a shop and rings did not seat properly. They poured some Bon Ami into the intake and it sealed them up, oil consumption went away...
    If your looking at the motor as a paper weight and all other measures fail you might wanna consider trying that. I will try and find the link.


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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924Carrera View Post
    I don't think you read my post...

    I was the guy who rebuilt the engine.

    The machine shop that was rebuilding my heads told me that the guides they were replacing were worn.

    Everything is new.

    I have bad compression on 4 cylinders.
    Point taken, however I should point out that you made no mention that the guides were actually replaced. Believe me, I've seen enough short sighted build decisions in my day that I never assume that someone fixes something

    Anyway, I know you weren't ripping on me, just wanted to clarify why I came to the conclusion I did.

    Hope you end up figuring out your issue
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

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  19. #19
    Senior Member Three Rings V70R's Avatar
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    If I were you in this scenario, Iíd scrap any and all things related to the BHF and go 2.7T. Thereís a few of them running around here in Portland (white B6 S4 comes to mind, recently sold for $18K IIRC) and if you take care of all the maintenance on the 2.7T before you toss it in, youíll have the opportunity to have reliable power without depreciating the value of your S4.

    Get your heads checked out by a shop for $40/each, sell off the rebuilt heads and anything else and move on to a 2.7T. You would be very happy with a well-sorted 2.7T in your existing S4.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZimbutheMonkey View Post
    Point taken, however I should point out that you made no mention that the guides were actually replaced. Believe me, I've seen enough short sighted build decisions in my day that I never assume that someone fixes something

    Anyway, I know you weren't ripping on me, just wanted to clarify why I came to the conclusion I did.

    Hope you end up figuring out your issue
    I guess I don't know what "rebuilding heads" would entail if NOT replacing guides and seals and doing a valve grind. Anyway, no matter, now we're all on the same page.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by V70R View Post
    If I were you in this scenario, Iíd scrap any and all things related to the BHF and go 2.7T. Thereís a few of them running around here in Portland (white B6 S4 comes to mind, recently sold for $18K IIRC) and if you take care of all the maintenance on the 2.7T before you toss it in, youíll have the opportunity to have reliable power without depreciating the value of your S4.

    Get your heads checked out by a shop for $40/each, sell off the rebuilt heads and anything else and move on to a 2.7T. You would be very happy with a well-sorted 2.7T in your existing S4.
    I totally get your point and as far as swaps go, that is one of the well established ones with pretty good documentation out there (compared to, say the 4.0T suggested earlier haha). However, being that I already have an OG 2.7T powered B5 S4 that I am putting together, the idea of also having an NA V8 that sounds absolutely outrageous is really appealing. I love how the 2.7T's sound as well, but it's just different, you know. With that being said, since the V8 in question seems to be a real crapshoot, maybe I'm just being stupid for continuing to hang onto that ideal.

    It does reassure me, though, when it comes to building my 2.7T for the B5, that it shouldn't turn into as much of a nightmare as this one. I already figured as much thanks to the cast iron block and readily available parts, but after going through this experience I am a little wary about rebuilding Audi engines in general.

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Iím sorry to say but you didnít bring back enought of the silicone cristals.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Three Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Yep. It is awesome thinking about a compact-sized sedan accompanied with a V8 that sounds great...when theyíre running.

    Regarding the 4.0T, Iíd love to see what these can do 5+ years from now...once they sort out their lubrication issues with the turbochargers, and all of the various parts theyíll revise 6 or 7 times after it threatens their reputation.

    Thatís the great thing about the 5V variant of the 2.7T. Theyíre somewhat overbuilt from the factory to withstand all of the heat and pressures exerted by a twin turbo V in a rediculously small engine bay. Great thing is you have one of the best trannies you could mate a 2.7T to, and the rest could be easily sourced from the VAG parts bin.
    Xlite w/ 11spd Campy Record- 2005 Dolphin Grey Ultrasport Avant 6MT-- 2001.5 Light Silver Metallic Avant 5MT w/ Sludge Package --1979 Scout II

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924Carrera View Post
    I guess I don't know what "rebuilding heads" would entail if NOT replacing guides and seals and doing a valve grind. Anyway, no matter, now we're all on the same page.
    Like I said, never underestimate the average person's propensity to do half-assed work

    With that said, If you have two good rebuilt heads and all the associated timing gear to go with it. I would recommend looking for a good block, buy some Pauter rods and put it back together with an upgraded clutch. From there, you're in a position to do a rear turbo setup.

    If you do go rear turbo, I would advise using a Comp oilless turbo. Reason being is that you can mount it in any orientation and you don't have to worry about getting oil to the turbo and draining it back. All you need is to run a reservoir (I'd put in the corner of the trunk) and a couple of passthrough coolers and pump. You can mount them where the other muffler used to be.

    Anyway, I don't know if that's your goal, but I figured I'd toss it out there for you to chew on.

    Here's a link to the coolers I'm referring to. They're a great design as they don't rely on air passing over them.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Racing-Power-R...1HWBWPFQ2QDJ4P
    Last edited by ZimbutheMonkey; 10-13-2018 at 05:48 PM.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings BCsniper's Avatar
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    Dude why are everyone of your posts trying to suggest him to stuff that has nothing to do wth his issues? Youíre on here telling him he should port his heads to get a little more power out of them when heís just asking the best way to get a properly running car again. Cart before the horse man. If heís considering selling the entire car to resolve his problems, I donít think putting together a turbo kit is really up there on his list of priorities

    This isnít ďhelping the communityĒ like you claim to do. Itís just rambling on to keep pushing your ideas to others, even when they arenít asking for it at all

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZimbutheMonkey View Post
    I would recommend looking for a good block
    Yes, that is what I would like to do. It is hard to find a block that is known to be good, however. Most used engines that are posted up on places like eBay or through LKQ say "tested and runs." I already have an engine that is tested and runs, and even seems to run "well" if you didn't know better. Finding an engine that has good compression, doesn't use oil excessively and isn't scored up (although if the first 2 are true I really don't care about the third; they usually go hand in hand though) AND that someone wants to sell, is the hard part.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by vailshred View Post
    How do your plugs look? Have you scoped again and are the piston tops wet with oil/carbon?
    I have a hard time understanding the rings and seating process on these engines. Most motors (non aluminum cyl) get a hone with a cross hatch for the rings to wear into. My understanding of the paste is that it actually polishes the walls and removes aluminum and exposes the silicon. There is no real cross hatch for the rings to wear into unless its at a microscopic level.
    I know the time invested is what hurts the most for me. The money is one thing but the time and amount of space needed kills my motivation.
    I personally would continue to try and fix. Soak all cyl's with sea foam for a couple days in hope that it will clean or break up clogged rings, force it through rings with leak down tester. Then change oil and run some high octane gas, run it hard.
    I read a few articles on Bon-Ami. A guy had a porshe motor rebuilt by a shop and rings did not seat properly. They poured some Bon Ami into the intake and it sealed them up, oil consumption went away...
    If your looking at the motor as a paper weight and all other measures fail you might wanna consider trying that. I will try and find the link.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Yeah, that's pretty much the thing. I took a week off work to just hammer out the rebuild with a friend of mine who had that window of time available to help. Stripping everything off the engine to swap over plus disassembling the rotating assembly to do the lapping, timing it, resealing everything with RTV, fitting up the exhaust...it's all time consuming.

    At this point the other main thing is just finding a suitable replacement option.

    Your suggestions are intriguing and I might try them. My only concern would be causing damage to something that I would plan to reuse if I do still end up having to replace the block (namely the heads and valves).

  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings vailshred's Avatar
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    How many miles have been put on the engine since the rebuild?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCsniper View Post
    Dude why are everyone of your posts trying to suggest him to stuff that has nothing to do wth his issues? Youíre on here telling him he should port his heads to get a little more power out of them when heís just asking the best way to get a properly running car again. Cart before the horse man. If heís considering selling the entire car to resolve his problems, I donít think putting together a turbo kit is really up there on his list of priorities

    This isnít ďhelping the communityĒ like you claim to do. Itís just rambling on to keep pushing your ideas to others, even when they arenít asking for it at all
    Riiiight, kinda like how posts like this aren't pushing your agenda of trash talking, but they are helping the OP with his issues and helping the community at large.....

    Seriously, what's your beef man? I suggest to the OP to find a new block and to throw some rods in it (AND he agrees that he wants to find a block).

    Then, just to give him something to think about, I outline a possible next stage since he would have a built engine.

    I'm not trying to sell him anything, I have no interest one way or another in Comp Turbo.

    All I'm doing is offering a suggestion for him AND OTHERS to read and consider. A suggestion, which I may add that no one has done yet, and one which could possibly be more reliable, more cost effective and easier to implement than the usual oil cooled turbos.

    So yeah, you're damn right posts like mine help the community. They may not all be ground breaking, but at least they're not targeting individuals, shitting on ideas, masquerading opinion as fact and generally cluttering up the forums.

    But I'm sure you'll have a perfectly good reason why none of my points are valid and everything you said has contributed yet again to the forums...
    Last edited by ZimbutheMonkey; 10-14-2018 at 11:16 AM.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZimbutheMonkey View Post
    Riiiight, kinda like how posts like this aren't pushing your agenda of trash talking, but they are helping the OP with his issues and helping the community at large.....

    Seriously, what's your beef man? I suggest to the OP to find a new block and to throw some rods in it (AND he agrees that he wants to find a block).

    Then, just to give him something to think about, I outline a possible next stage since he would have a built engine.

    I'm not trying to sell him anything, I have no interest one way or another in Comp Turbo.

    All I'm doing is offering a suggestion for him AND OTHERS to read and consider. A suggestion, which I may add that no one has done yet, and one which could possibly be more reliable, more cost effective and easier to implement than the usual oil cooled turbos.

    So yeah, you're damn right posts like mine help the community. They may not all be ground breaking, but at least they're not targeting individuals, shitting on ideas, masquerading opinion as fact and generally cluttering up the forums.

    But I'm sure you'll have a perfectly good reason why none of my points are valid and everything you said has contributed yet again to the forums...
    lord...here we go.

    You two RELAX.


    Anyway, OP (924) i think the first thing would be to tear it down and determine the cause. I REALLY feel your pain in the amount of work involved, however, it could've been a dumb mistake. (ring gaps too tight, right gap corner edges not chamfered, etc...)

    Question: Which cylinders are the culprits?

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    Anyway, OP (924) i think the first thing would be to tear it down and determine the cause. I REALLY feel your pain in the amount of work involved, however, it could've been a dumb mistake. (ring gaps too tight, right gap corner edges not chamfered, etc...)

    Question: Which cylinders are the culprits?
    1 and 5 (frontmost ones) are the worst, followed by 2 and 7. The rearmost ones are the best at 150 and 160, which is within the "acceptable new spec," although I'm not sure if I should be expecting closer to 180 or more for a proper rebuild.

    Yeah, a tear down is needed without a doubt and it will happen eventually, but I want to have a plan in place first. I can't count on the engine to be salvageable so my goal would be to get a replacement to be ready to swap in.

    However, if a tear down indeed reveals a dumb mistake, then maybe I can be less discriminate about my replacement block and can rebuild it as well, but without the same theoretical mistake.

    That being said, I'm not in any hurry to redo that lapping process. Cleaning all that AN-30 out of the coolant passages was pretty tedious.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by vailshred View Post
    How many miles have been put on the engine since the rebuild?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Almost exactly 4000.

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 924Carrera View Post
    1 and 5 (frontmost ones) are the worst, followed by 2 and 7. The rearmost ones are the best at 150 and 160, which is within the "acceptable new spec," although I'm not sure if I should be expecting closer to 180 or more for a proper rebuild.

    Yeah, a tear down is needed without a doubt and it will happen eventually, but I want to have a plan in place first. I can't count on the engine to be salvageable so my goal would be to get a replacement to be ready to swap in.

    However, if a tear down indeed reveals a dumb mistake, then maybe I can be less discriminate about my replacement block and can rebuild it as well, but without the same theoretical mistake.

    That being said, I'm not in any hurry to redo that lapping process. Cleaning all that AN-30 out of the coolant passages was pretty tedious.
    whaaat, you didn't tape over the deck??? lol

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    whaaat, you didn't tape over the deck??? lol
    In retrospect that probably would have been a good idea. However, of all the things that could have gone wrong with the rebuild, that was not it. My friend and I manhandled the whole block into a solvent tank followed by 2 or 3 cans of brake clean and lots of compressed air until there was nothing left in that block whatsoever.

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    shit I just put a plastic cap about the size of the bore down at the bottom which was held up by the oil squirters and it sat lower then where the rings ride, taped over the deck and all was golden. Hardest part for me was cleaning the passages that go between each cylinder at the bottoms. But acetone and microfiber made quick work.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    shit I just put a plastic cap about the size of the bore down at the bottom which was held up by the oil squirters and it sat lower then where the rings ride, taped over the deck and all was golden. Hardest part for me was cleaning the passages that go between each cylinder at the bottoms. But acetone and microfiber made quick work.
    Yeah, I did use a cap in the bottom of the bores to keep crap out of the oil squirters.



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