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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    FIXED!! P1347 bank 1 cmp sensor (g40) engine speed sensor (g28) incorrect correlation

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    So I was having an issue where my cams wouldn't line up properly.

    Block 094 Bank 1 was at 30 deg, Bank 2 was at 0 deg

    Block 093 Bank 1 had no reading, Bank 2 was 0 (I think)

    Both cams appeared to be locking when the engine stopped. So I was at my wits end until I remembered a post I saw years back in a W8 forum describing how they fixed cam correlation issues on those engines.

    Anyone want to take a guess what I did.....?

    Turns out that the solenoids work off a 5 volt signal. However, they can take up to 12V (and maybe more).

    So I cut an old 2 prong plug out of an old harness I had, plugged it into the solenoid, grounded one side and then started tapping the positive lead on the positive terminal of my battery.

    I started on bank 2 as I thought it was the defective one on account of it being at 30 degrees when the engine ran. At first I didn't hear much, then after about 30-40 cycles, the clicking sound got louder. Started it up and,,, nothing... I was still getting the cam code.

    Then it dawned on me that the issue was in Bank 1 when I realized that it was stuck at 30 degrees. The reason that Bank 2 was at 0 was because that's the default position when there's a system failure.

    I took my plug, put it on the Bank 1 solenoid for about 20-30 hits and started her up again.

    BINGO!!!!! the cams are now working perfectly.

    ***One thing to note, the solenoids should make an audible 'click' when you touch the 12V source to them. If you can barely hear them, then they still need to worked back and forth until you can't miss the sound of them moving***

    I'm not sure why I've never seen anyone refer to this fix here though? I would assume that SOMEONE would have had this issue at some point.

    Regardless, if you're having cam correlation issues give this fix a try. It's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than pulling the engine and/or replacing the cam adjusters/solenoids.

    Here's a pic of what I used to knock the solenoids loose
    20181009_011350 by zimbu themonkey, on Flickr

    ******NOTE***** this is a repeat of post 18, but I wanted it up here where people can see it.

    One other fix I should discuss is manually re-locking the adjusters.

    This happened to me twice. Basically, I would get a cam code (not sure if it was exactly the same one as in the title).

    What seemed to be happening was that on one of the engine, the adjuster wouldn't go back to it's locked position when the engine was shut off.

    What I had to do was pull the valve cover, pull the little half moon in front the adjuster out of the way and put a 14mm triple square bit on the end of the adjuster. (you'll need to use a 9/16 box end wrench to hold the bit as there's no room for a ratchet) From there, I just rotated the cam until I heard the pin 'click' into place.

    Now, what I can't say is if the adjuster not locking was because I was having solenoid issues or if it was an entirely separate issue. I highly suspect that it was the result of a bad solenoid and all I was doing by re-adjusting the adjuster manually was fixing a symptom of a failing solenoid.

    With that said, I at least wanted to document my findings in case the adjusters not locking is an entirely separate issue.

    You know, I'm really starting to wonder just how much time and money has been wasted either 1) replacing entire solenoids 2) replacing adjusters and 3) doing engine pulls when all that was required was to give the solenoids a quick zap......

    PS: I recently heard that the new 3.6 Pentastar engine actually has a programmed in function to pulse it's solenoids at 12V busts for a brief period if it detects a jam.
    Last edited by ZimbutheMonkey; 10-12-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    So you force fed them with 12v to get them freed up ?

    Noice

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeoboy67 View Post
    So you force fed them with 12v to get them freed up ?

    Noice
    CONGRATS, you read correctly!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    CONGRATS, you read correctly!
    I did my best

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeoboy67 View Post
    So you force fed them with 12v to get them freed up ?

    Noice
    You got it Pontiac

    Just to clarify one point though, it was a series of quick zaps. I didn't ever just leave the 12V on for more than a half second.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Wow that's a pretty smart fix

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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Do you plan to eventually replace it?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kambesama View Post
    Do you plan to eventually replace it?
    Until it breaks, I ain't fixing it lol (knock on wood)

    Quote Originally Posted by Squrl View Post
    Wow that's a pretty smart fix

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Audizine mobile app
    Thanks like I said though, I'm really surprised that this isn't common knowledge around here. I know this HAS to be a common issue on these motors and to be honest, the fix that I used would have been apparent to just about anyone who did a cursory search on Google.

    While I don't want to make my point at the expense of other members, I have to say that I can't help but feel that there's a certain attitude of learned helplessness on the B6 B7 S4/RS4 forum. Again, I'm NOT casting any judgement, but I REALLY encourage members here to experiment with their own ideas in terms of solutions and advancements.

    Anyway, I guess it is what it is, so thanks again for the kind words guys and I'm honestly glad that I can be of assistance .
    Last edited by ZimbutheMonkey; 10-09-2018 at 01:30 PM.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    [QUOTE=ZimbutheMonkey;13335553]So I was having an issue where my cams wouldn't line up properly.

    Block 094 Bank 1 was at 30 deg, Bank 2 was at 0 deg

    Block 093 Bank 1 had no reading, Bank 2 was 0 (I think)

    Both cams appeared to be locking when the engine stopped. So I was at my wits end until I remembered a post I saw years back in a W8 forum describing how they fixed cam correlation issues on those engines.

    Anyone want to take a guess what I did.....?

    Turns out that the solenoids work off a 5 volt signal. However, they can take up to 12V (and maybe more).

    So I cut an old 2 prong plug out of an old harness I had, plugged it into the solenoid, grounded one side and then started tapping the positive lead on the positive terminal of my battery.

    I started on bank 2 as I thought it was the defective one on account of it being at 30 degrees when the engine ran. At first I didn't hear much, then after about 30-40 cycles, the clicking sound got louder. Started it up and,,, nothing... I was still getting the cam code.

    Then it dawned on me that the issue was in Bank 1 when I realized that it was stuck at 30 degrees. The reason that Bank 2 was at 0 was because that's the default position when there's a system failure.


    I took my plug, put it on the Bank 1 solenoid for about 20-30 hits and started her up again.

    BINGO!!!!! the cams are now working perfectly.

    ***One thing to note, the solenoids should make an audible 'click' when you touch the 12V source to them. If you can barely hear them, then they still need to worked back and forth until you can't miss the sound of them moving***

    I'm not sure why I've never seen anyone refer to this fix here though? I would assume that SOMEONE would have had this issue at some point.

    Regardless, if you're having cam correlation issues give this fix a try. It's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than pulling the engine and/or replacing the cam adjusters/solenoids.

    Here's a pic of what I used to knock the solenoids loose
    20181009_011350 by zimbu themonkey, on Flickr
    You can do this with vag com

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hans solo View Post
    You can do this with vag com
    To a degree, but the output tests will only give the solenoid 5V. If it's stuck, you need to give it a higher voltage level than it normally sees to break it loose inside.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings A8LOOONG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZimbutheMonkey View Post
    To a degree, but the output tests will only give the solenoid 5V. If it's stuck, you need to give it a higher voltage level than it normally sees to break it loose inside.
    It sounds like you found a nice solution but why were they stuck in the first place?

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A8LOOONG View Post
    It sounds like you found a nice solution but why were they stuck in the first place?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Audizine mobile app
    they get stuck due to oil varnishing. Best bet is to soak em in parts cleaner for a few days and cycle them with 12v power every so often during that time to get the cleaner in everywhere.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings A8LOOONG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by q_dubz View Post
    they get stuck due to oil varnishing. Best bet is to soak em in parts cleaner for a few days and cycle them with 12v power every so often during that time to get the cleaner in everywhere.
    Ahhhh, I get it. I'm not 100% familiar but maybe you ought to get them out of there and soak them anyway -- or replace? BTW, gasoline is an excellent soak material for parts like this too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Audizine mobile app
    Current:
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    2007 Atomic Orange Corvette Z06 7.0L
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    I really really really want an V10

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings q_dubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A8LOOONG View Post
    Ahhhh, I get it. I'm not 100% familiar but maybe you ought to get them out of there and soak them anyway -- or replace? BTW, gasoline is an excellent soak material for parts like this too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Audizine mobile app
    not an easy job to get them outta there

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings mad70sx's Avatar
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    Wow, nicely done Zimbu. Those electrical cam adjusters are not exactly inexpensive to replace. Nice job thinking outside of the box.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mad70sx View Post
    Wow, nicely done Zimbu. Those electrical cam adjusters are not exactly inexpensive to replace. Nice job thinking outside of the box.
    Well thank you kind sir
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings ZimbutheMonkey's Avatar
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    ******NOTE*****

    One other fix I should discuss is manually re-locking the adjusters.

    This happened to me twice. Basically, I would get a cam code (not sure if it was exactly the same one as in the title).

    What seemed to be happening was that on one of the engine, the adjuster wouldn't go back to it's locked position when the engine was shut off.

    What I had to do was pull the valve cover, pull the little half moon in front the adjuster out of the way and put a 14mm triple square bit on the end of the adjuster. (you'll need to use a 9/16 box end wrench to hold the bit as there's no room for a ratchet) From there, I just rotated the cam until I heard the pin 'click' into place.

    Now, what I can't say is if the adjuster not locking was because I was having solenoid issues or if it was an entirely separate issue. I highly suspect that it was the result of a bad solenoid and all I was doing by re-adjusting the adjuster manually was fixing a symptom of a failing solenoid.

    With that said, I at least wanted to document my findings in case the adjusters not locking is an entirely separate issue.

    You know, I'm really starting to wonder just how much time and money has been wasted either 1) replacing entire solenoids 2) replacing adjusters and 3) doing engine pulls when all that was required was to give the solenoids a quick zap......

    PS: I recently heard that the new 3.6 Pentastar engine actually has a programmed in function to pulse it's solenoids at 12V busts for a brief period if it detects a jam.
    This B6/B7 S4 forum is brought to you by the refreshing taste of Kool-Aid... OH YEAH!!!!!

    My car has a real tune. Tuned by me. Just because you're not smart enough to tune your own car don't ruin a thread.



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