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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings A1 A2 German's Avatar
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    Deleting oem oil cooler & lines, can I J-plug the thermo housing & cap coolant pipe?

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    I'm tossing the oem oil cooler, I want to go beyond unionizing the top and bottom oil cooler lines (which would still be the oem flow cycle), and just cap off everything.

    Yet, I'm not sure if the engine still needs to cycle the coolant via that route.

    By capping I'd use a j-plug in the thermo housing, and cap off the coolant flow nipple which comes from the coolant over pipe (over the manifold pipe) to the oil cooler.

    06A
    Last edited by A1 A2 German; 10-08-2018 at 07:13 PM.
    Having a bucket that runs 10's is like saying you have a 200lb girlfriend but she's good in bed.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I've been running my 058 stroker like this. capped off all the old coolant lines to the cooler when i installed the sandwich plate and deleted the stock cooler, as well as the heater core lines.

    Have seen no ill effects from doing it.
    Stupid drift A4

    R.I.P RWD-converted '99 A4 Avant 1.8T

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure you still need the flow there.

    Coolant flow through the engine is important, especially to keep the cylinder head at an even temperature across the entire part. Hot spots are no good. Because flow through the radiator is stopped by the t-stat (until it opens), this flow is provided by the other route: the heater core and oil cooler. You can certainly eliminate the oil cooler if you want, but eliminating the heater core path* and capping off everything is not a good plan in my opinion. You still need fluid movement to keep things evened out.

    *The "j-plug" port is the return path for the oil cooler as well as the heater core.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    "You need to know what you are doing...Its like a rainbow jungle in there." - Redline380

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Rodgman15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    I'm pretty sure you still need the flow there.

    Coolant flow through the engine is important, especially to keep the cylinder head at an even temperature across the entire part. Hot spots are no good. Because flow through the radiator is stopped by the t-stat (until it opens), this flow is provided by the other route: the heater core and oil cooler. You can certainly eliminate the oil cooler if you want, but eliminating the heater core path* and capping off everything is not a good plan in my opinion. You still need fluid movement to keep things evened out.

    *The "j-plug" port is the return path for the oil cooler as well as the heater core.
    He's right, but to play devil's advocate, I have over 30k @40+ PSI on an HX35 with the OEM cooler deleted.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    It is certainly possible that the design of the 1.8T happens to deal with this well. Some engines (like 90's Honda for instance) are notorious for having reliability problems after even minor modifications/simplifications to the factory hose routings. Personally, I would want to leave at least a looped path of some kind (actually I live in PA, so I'd leave heater core fully functional, lol), but it's up to you. If you had a problem with hot spots in the head, one classic symptom could be detonation on a particular cylinder. Might be something to watch for. Good Luck.
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
    2001 Laser Red A4 1.8TQM, 5-Speed Swapped, 4.11 Final Drive, APR 93, R8 coil packs, Labree HFC & DP, 2.5" Exhaust, ST Coilovers, 034 RSB, A8 Brakes Front & Rear, 18" RS4 Reps
    2006 Passion Red Volvo V50 T5 AWD 6MT
    "You need to know what you are doing...Its like a rainbow jungle in there." - Redline380

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings A1 A2 German's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodgman15 View Post
    He's right, but to play devil's advocate, I have over 30k @40+ PSI on an HX35 with the OEM cooler deleted.
    Thanks for the reply's.

    The questions do not pertain to having an oem cooler or not, but as to whether people have capped both ends/leads to the oil cooler (like greypants), or were forced to union them together as got too hot.

    Did you union both hoses or cap both ends?

    I went ahead with Walky's advice as I didn't want to ~risk hot spots, and...was able to pull off my design very short and sweet which amounts to ~4" of hose without adding clutter.

    Using a Mk4 06A crack pipe cut down to 3" with an 12AN male bung welded to it, using a 12AN straight fitting and 4" of braided hose, runs just under both knock sensors and ties in to my undermount coolant kit.
    Having a bucket that runs 10's is like saying you have a 200lb girlfriend but she's good in bed.



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