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  1. #1
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    282758
    Location
    Sweden

    Allroad 2.7t single mass flywheel

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    Hi, i just made a conversion from dual mass to single mass flywheel on my allroad. But now i got a problem that i just cant figure out.
    It all started out with the clutch empty on fluid but now i finally got fluid in the system (no air bubbles when bleeding the system) but still i cant put any gears in.
    When the engine is running and i push down the clutch and try to engage any gear the car make a slight move forward.

    The flywheel, pressure plate and disk is sachs.

    So are there anyone here who have had the same problem or have some tips for me what to do?

    Hope you guys understand my problem.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings Grainreaper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 19 2016
    AZ Member #
    386079
    Location
    Lake in the Hills, Illinois

    You properly bled it? It has a good pedal feel?

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings Grainreaper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 19 2016
    AZ Member #
    386079
    Location
    Lake in the Hills, Illinois

    I’ve had a few cars not bleed out properly and so the slave never pushed the clutch fork far enough to release the clutch to shift

  4. #4
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    282758
    Location
    Sweden

    Im not sure about the bleeding, but i didnt get out any more air, and the pedal am i not all sure about. It feels right but att the same time i think it should be a little stiffer.
    Are there any good diy on how to properly bleed the allroad?

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Wahlström View Post
    Are there any good diy on how to properly bleed the allroad?
    I usually do it in the same way as with the brakes. It is easiest to do when you are putting the engine back in and the cylinder is already connected but the engine is not all the way in yet. In that case you have a little more room to work on the slave cylinder. But I've done when the engine was already in, just not as convenient. Connect a vacuum pump or a simple tubular hose going into a small jar to the bleeder bolt. Have someone pump and hold the pedal, unscrew the bleeder bolt and release the pressure. Make sure that if using a hose not the vacuum pump, that its other end is always dipped in the fluid in the jar so you don't let it suck the air back in. Repeat until no more bubbles and the pedal feels right.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Here's a copy pate from Elsa:

    "
    Clutch System, Bleeding
    ---------------------------
    Special tools and workshop equipment required
    t Brake filling and bleeding appliance -VAG 1238 B-
    t or
    t Brake filling and bleeding appliance -VAG 1869-

    Note
    t First open bleeder valve before switching on bleeding appliance.
    t When performing the following steps, make sure that no brake fluid escapes onto the transmission.
    t The clutch system must be bled after performing work on hydraulic clutch mechanism.
    t Top-up brake fluid reservoir to “max.” marking with brake fluid before bleeding clutch system.
    – Pull clutch pedal back to its normal position.
    – Connect brake filling and bleeding appliance -VAG 1238 B- or -VAG 1869-, but do not switch on at this stage.
    – If fitted, remove noise insulation beneath transmission.
    – Connect bleed hose -A- to slave cylinder -arrow- and open bleed valve.
    – Connect bleeder hose to pressure hose of fluid collector bottle.
    – Switch on bleeder appliance and allow about 100 cm³ of brake fluid to drain out.
    Working pressure: 2.5 bar

    Note
    Ensure bleeder hose is correctly fitted during bleeding operation.
    – Close bleeder valve and tighten to 4.5 Nm.
    – Depress clutch pedal several times after completion of bleeding process.
    – Bleed system again if necessary.
    "

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    64156
    My Garage
    S6 Avant X TWO! and 67' Speed buggy
    Location
    Central Wash

    Which Single mass flywheel and clutch did you use?
    Any noise? Grinding, vibration? Rattling? Pedal goes down and returns to the top? Does it NOT go into gear at all? Can you engage a gear with the key off and then start the car with the clutch down and drive?
    What happens if the engine is idling and you try to shift gears withOUT pushing the clutch down?
    Unless there's more to it then it sounds like the -clutch <-> flywheel <-> pressure plate- combo might be mismatched? Only takes a mm or so of difference/ thickness and the clutch will not dis /engage. Some single mass Flywheels also have special bolts, or the holes the bolts go through aren't counter-sunk deep enough and the clutch bottoms out on them. That can do it too.
    Last edited by rollerton; 09-15-2018 at 09:35 AM.
    foley803 : What does an electrical surge sound like? Barking dogs? Watermelons?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    While bleeding make absolutely sure the back of car is higher than front. This is because the bleeder is at the very back of cylinder and it points towars feont of car.

    Back your car onto ramps, put on stands or jacks, etc.

    If level, or even worse with front higher, it is very hard to bleed all the air out because it will be sitting near front of cylinder on opposite side from bleeding screw.



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