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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Oil cooler line replacement

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    So my oil cooler supply line finally let go; I have replacements ordered from JHM, but Iíd like to ask the following:
    1.) what size wrenches or other tools will I need? Torx, etc.
    2.) am I ok to shoot the original connections with penetrating oil and let them set while I await my parts?
    3.) what is the torque spec on these connections? At motor and cooler?
    4.) do I need to drain the oil pan? I thought I read somewhere that it is NOT necessary.

    Is there anything I need to be aware of as a ďgotchaĒ? This seems pretty straight forward to me so far.

    Thanks


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  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Oil cooler supply line? Like engine oil cooler?
    I'm confused b3cause the supply and return are on the backside of the cooler sealed to the block with 2 orings.... please elaborate... is it the JHM oil cooler delete?

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    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Itís an RS 4: so my oil cooler is in front of the radiator. As you can see in the photo, one of the steel fittings corroded to the point of failure.



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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Sorry, wrong photo. This shows the break better.


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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings M0ve0ver's Avatar
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    Depending on the cost of the OEM lines, you may want to consider making your own braided lines with AN fittings
    05 B6 S4: JHM 93 Tune, Trex DP, JHM 2.5" CB, JHM LWCP, Apikol snub, Bilstein PSS9, 034 Adj Control Arms, 034 Rear Sway + Endlinks, 034 front Endlinks, Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's, 034 wheel studs, 034 Strut Bushings, 034 Lower Control Arms, tyrolsport caliper bushings, ECS braided brake lines, Hawk HPS pads

  6. #6
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Well you learn something new every day!

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    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    JHM lines have already been purchased; awaiting shipping. AN fittings and conversion included.

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings M0ve0ver's Avatar
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    When I eventually have to do my timing chains, I'm absolutely going to consider replacing as many rubber lines with AN lines as possible while I'm in there.
    05 B6 S4: JHM 93 Tune, Trex DP, JHM 2.5" CB, JHM LWCP, Apikol snub, Bilstein PSS9, 034 Adj Control Arms, 034 Rear Sway + Endlinks, 034 front Endlinks, Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's, 034 wheel studs, 034 Strut Bushings, 034 Lower Control Arms, tyrolsport caliper bushings, ECS braided brake lines, Hawk HPS pads

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0ve0ver View Post
    Depending on the cost of the OEM lines, you may want to consider making your own braided lines with AN fittings
    If you want to piece together your own instead of using JHMís kit, the components are below. The list assumes you have tools to cut the hose to length and assemble the hose end.

    JHM -12AN Conversion Oil Pan Adapters for B7-RS4 P/N JHM-B7RS4-12Adpt: $245

    McMaster-Carr M6x1.00x12.5mm 30A Durometer Silicone Standoff P/N 4403K722: $6.46 + $5.74 S&H = $12.20

    Aeroquip -12AN 15' Starlite Hose P/N FCU-12015: $145.97
    -12AN Straight Hose End P/N TS-12
    -12AN 120 Hose End P/N T120-12
    $60

    racerpartswholesale.com
    Mocal -12AN 90 deg Hose End P/N T12-90
    $53.39

    PatrickMotorsports.com
    Goodridge Union Adapter Fitting AN-12 Male To 26MM Female P/N HAR AF26AN12: $35 (x2) = $70 + $13.14 S&H = $83.14

    Lowes
    Hillman 1Ē Zn plated Adel Clamp P/N HPM#07828: $1.39 (*1.07) = $1.49 / 2 = $0.75
    2008 Audi RS4 Ti Mugello Blue / Ebony
    2004 Audi S4 6MT Saloon Brilliant Black / Ebony
    2012 Lexus CT200h

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings MugelloB7RS4's Avatar
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    As a heads up for the cooler, there's a very high chance you will ruin the threads on the cooler removing the old lines.

    I believe I read that the issue stems from the factory not putting anti-seize on the threads. The cooler and the lines are different materials so they corrode together. The ones that I've seen have sheared the threads right off the cooler trying to take them off. The JHM lines are a good upgrade, but be aware that a new cooler may also be necessary. I'm speaking from experience.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Iíve read that several times; thatís why I asked about the penetrating oil. I was originally going to order the Forge replacement kit, but itís a 5 week wait and I donít want to be down that long.

    Hopefully, I can get lucky on the fitting removal.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Iím thinking of finding an equivalent aftermarket oil cooler and either 3D printing or metal fabricating mounts.

    OEM dimensions are:
    H: 3 13/16Ē
    W: 20Ē total / 17 1/8Ē core
    D: 2Ē

    There is a Setrab Slimline unit 53-10748, that could a replacement
    http://50.62.235.225/files/setrab$.pdf
    Last edited by S4Bennett; 09-14-2018 at 04:52 PM.
    2008 Audi RS4 Ti Mugello Blue / Ebony
    2004 Audi S4 6MT Saloon Brilliant Black / Ebony
    2012 Lexus CT200h

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8961

    found these folks fairly close to me.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Itís going to be limited in height because of the crash bar, and youíll give up 3Ē of core width. The hose ends also have to face up to let he air bubbbles out and would further limit height available for core area. My idea is better, admit it dammit!
    2008 Audi RS4 Ti Mugello Blue / Ebony
    2004 Audi S4 6MT Saloon Brilliant Black / Ebony
    2012 Lexus CT200h

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    My post was just to show that Pegasus sells Setrab, not specifically what model. So yeah, your idea is better....and you can buy it from Pegasus. And if I f-up my cooler, I will.

    So now I could really use that info I asked about earlier: torque, wrench size, odd tools I need to be aware of...tracking is telling me these lines arrive tomorrow....so I need to get started.

    Yeah...


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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Right, lost the plot for a moment.

    Less obvious tools youíll need perhaps? Not sure what Iím taking for granted since I buy tools just to buy tools sometimes.
    2 - large adjustable spanned wrenches (i.e. the manymeters spanner)
    1 - T30 long (6Ē?) socket bit to remove the 2 fasteners securing oil lines to the block
    Bumper and front belly pan removal tools - T25, T30, 10mm deep + wobble + 9Ē of 1/4Ē drive extensions, #3 stubby standard screwdriver
    Side cuts to trim the oil cooler line grommet for the larger OD, JHM lines, or you can opt for firesleeve...to prevent wear on the radiator support or if you use a fiber braided line, to prevent wearing through the oil line.

    If I had to do it again, I would remind myself:
    Drain the oil from the lower port on the oil cooler first (driver-side).
    Disconnect the lines from the block last. They continue to weep regardless of draining the oil sump and youíll need a catch pan until the new lines are re-installed.
    Support the oil cooler when tightening or loosening to prevent it from twisting too much. You can fracture the mount.

    Anything non-structural, I base torque on fastener diameter and material. e.g. M6 = 8 to 10 lb*ft, M8 = 18 to 22 lb*ft. You donít have to tighten the plumbing connections extremely tight, just enough to seat the flare (or ball in socket for metric) and then enough torque to prevent the connection from backing off. Itís pretty difficult to get a torque wrench into many of the areas so Iíd say itís more counterproductive to plan to use it. If you must, buy a 1/4Ē drive torque wrench that reads in inch*lb.

    No comments on fussy oil cooler connections. Mine was a Texas car previously.
    2008 Audi RS4 Ti Mugello Blue / Ebony
    2004 Audi S4 6MT Saloon Brilliant Black / Ebony
    2012 Lexus CT200h

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Thank you, at least now I can check the toolbox BEFORE I get started to verify what I have or not.

    Iím really starting to consider picking up that Sonic Tools VW/Audi technician tool set/box.


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  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Just checked and it looks like I have all the required tools for this endeavor

    Of course....ramps or a new floor jack....



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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings tweak419's Avatar
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    Any suggestions on how to support the oil cooler while torquing on the lines? It would appear that itís mounted to metal, mounted to plastic and she flexes quite a bit as I attempt to turn the 32mm wrench. I obviously would like to avoid destroying my oil cooler...


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