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  1. #1
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2018
    AZ Member #
    426665
    Location
    Gacov

    Cam Adjuster Problem

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    Hey all,

    I tried the forum search but couldn't find anything that could help me diagnose my problem.
    The story started with the car losing power on low rpm and having a cell with p0011. After running trough the vag-com logs i narrowed down the problem to faulty electrical adjuster. I took the engine apart (still in the car) and attempted to do the replacement. It was the bank1 (passenger side). While i had the engine apart i decided to do a brand new mechanical adjuster, 2 guides, tensioner and the chain as well. I followed the procedure, I locked the crank and the two heads and swapped the parts. No issues there. Once I started the car i could hear chain noise from the same bank 1 head i just fixed. I ran the vag-com 091, 092, 093 and 094 blocks and everything was good expert block 094 showed timing 7deg time difference between bank 2 and bank 1. I figured that i did something wrong and re-did the timing again. Upon starting the car the you can hear less noise but it is still there. It kind of sounds like diesel engine. The car idles good, it starts on the clock and sounds healthy excluding the noise. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing that to happen ? I search the forums and watch multiple videos but i'm out of ideas now. Any idea will be appreciated

  2. #2
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    Did you lock the mechanical adjusters when you installed them?
    Quote Originally Posted by bacogacov View Post
    Hey all,

    I tried the forum search but couldn't find anything that could help me diagnose my problem.
    The story started with the car losing power on low rpm and having a cell with p0011. After running trough the vag-com logs i narrowed down the problem to faulty electrical adjuster. I took the engine apart (still in the car) and attempted to do the replacement. It was the bank1 (passenger side). While i had the engine apart i decided to do a brand new mechanical adjuster, 2 guides, tensioner and the chain as well. I followed the procedure, I locked the crank and the two heads and swapped the parts. No issues there. Once I started the car i could hear chain noise from the same bank 1 head i just fixed. I ran the vag-com 091, 092, 093 and 094 blocks and everything was good expert block 094 showed timing 7deg time difference between bank 2 and bank 1. I figured that i did something wrong and re-did the timing again. Upon starting the car the you can hear less noise but it is still there. It kind of sounds like diesel engine. The car idles good, it starts on the clock and sounds healthy excluding the noise. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing that to happen ? I search the forums and watch multiple videos but i'm out of ideas now. Any idea will be appreciated
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    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    144887
    My Garage
    2007 Audi A4 2.0T
    Location
    Hudson WI

    Man why go through all that effort to replace a fraction of the timing with the engine in the car. If you can do that, you should have taken 4 hours to pull the engine and do a complete timing service.

    As far as as your issue, like Vinny said you need to make sure the adjuster pin is set before timing, and I hope you used the tool to index the trigger wheel on the adjuster. Not a job you want to just wing without proper procedure.

    Also did you even inspect your old adjuster for wear? Takes about two minutes to open it up, but no point to spend 800$+ on a new adjuster if it not needed.


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  4. #4
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Sep 12 2018
    AZ Member #
    426665
    Location
    Gacov

    After taking the timing apart for the 3rd time it turned that the brand new tensioner was the problem, some how was not getting filled with out and the chain was bouncing around. Thanks ecstuning for the faulty part

    The reason i decided the do the job with the engine still in the car is because i didnt have access to lift and engine hoist so i figured that would be easier since you work from the top. The PO has done the bank2 side before so it w4orked out well. Car is back together and it runs really good.



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