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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 17 2014
    AZ Member #
    146613
    Location
    british columbia

    Cam tensioner pad replacement

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    My car has 162000 miles on it. Oil and filter changes every 3000 miles. It has the original cam tensioner pads still on it. When looking at them they look fine but as mentioned in other posts l am new to this. Do l need to have these pads replaced? We are planning a long road trip.
    thank you

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 22 2017
    AZ Member #
    391291
    My Garage
    Acura MDX, 4Runner, FJR1300, Mastercraft, 89 Bronco 408w
    Location
    Wisconsin

    I replaced on my c5 a6 4.2 as I was trying to minimize chain noise at start up. If they aren't grooved noticeably, I wouldn't bother until I did valve conver gaskets and seals (which is inevitable).

    Bratcop

    Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings Watcher0691's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    403312
    My Garage
    2013 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro, (2) 2001 A6 2.7T Quattro, Dodge Stratus R/T full sub 510 cu.
    Location
    Ozark Missouri

    As I am rebuilding several 2.7T's at the moment, I ordered these from amazon.

    Sentinel Parts #C062 97-06 Audi Timing Chain Tensioner.

    These are the tensioner pads and not the tensioner. $13.50 a set, OEM quality or better.
    Watcher

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kruat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 10 2004
    AZ Member #
    4121
    My Garage
    01 S4, 03 RS6, 04 Allroad, 16 PSD F350
    Location
    Longview, WA

    What's it like replacing these? Do the cams have to come out? Timing belt removed?
    --Mike--

    01 Casa S4
    03 Mugello RS6
    04 Cobalt Blue Allroad

    01 Aviator TT (sold)
    99.5 A4 (sold)

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 22 2017
    AZ Member #
    391291
    My Garage
    Acura MDX, 4Runner, FJR1300, Mastercraft, 89 Bronco 408w
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Yes, cams loose and lifted a bit, timing belt off


    Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings Watcher0691's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    403312
    My Garage
    2013 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro, (2) 2001 A6 2.7T Quattro, Dodge Stratus R/T full sub 510 cu.
    Location
    Ozark Missouri

    Quote Originally Posted by Kruat View Post
    What's it like replacing these? Do the cams have to come out? Timing belt removed?
    Good question!!

    I would highly recommend that anyone attempting this follow Bently or AllData procedural steps!

    Because I do this on a regular basis with power-plant both installed and removed, I take short cuts that the factory omitted to prevent newbie Techs from screwing up the cam timing and destroying a customers engine.

    As long as you follow these basic rules:

    1. Engine at TDC and locked to prevent rotation.

    2. Lock camshaft and release belt tension

    3. Clean and mark both cam sprocket and chain before using special tool (Cam tension release tool)

    4.VERIFY marks after re-installing cam tensioner.

    Never have I ever experienced a problem, or failure by following the factory or "my short cut" steps.


    BTW... Did all of you in the Audi world know that you can rebuild your existing Cam Chain Tension assemblies?

    I do!

    I will try and find some time to document with pics and all how simple and inexpensive you can do this in the coming week.
    Watcher

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kruat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 10 2004
    AZ Member #
    4121
    My Garage
    01 S4, 03 RS6, 04 Allroad, 16 PSD F350
    Location
    Longview, WA

    2. Lock camshaft and release belt tension

    What do you use to lock the cam shafts I place? And in your experience, is it the pad that fails more then the actual tensioner?
    --Mike--

    01 Casa S4
    03 Mugello RS6
    04 Cobalt Blue Allroad

    01 Aviator TT (sold)
    99.5 A4 (sold)

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Kruat View Post
    2. Lock camshaft and release belt tension

    What do you use to lock the cam shafts I place? And in your experience, is it the pad that fails more then the actual tensioner?
    There is a plastic plug on the left side of the engine behind the intercooler pipe. Unscrew 10mm bolt and there is a special tool that you bolt in instead of the plug. There is a hole in the crankshaft assembly that you need to align this will be your TDC position. The special tool is very inexpensive an is like $10 on ebay or so.

    Also if you have a lock bar for the cam sprockets, you don't necessarily need to mark the sprocket positions. The lock bar is $45-50. If you ever plan to do timing belt yourself or take it out in the future it is worth to invest, otherwise do marks for a one time job.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here's the link for the tool to lock the crankshaft: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18mm-VW-Aud...cAAOSwMVdYESzb

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    In fact, seems like someone is selling a lock bar and the pin for < $25. I would definitely buy it: https://www.ebay.com/p/VW-AUDI-V6-Ca....c100005.m1851

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings Watcher0691's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2017
    AZ Member #
    403312
    My Garage
    2013 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro, (2) 2001 A6 2.7T Quattro, Dodge Stratus R/T full sub 510 cu.
    Location
    Ozark Missouri

    Quote Originally Posted by climb4hope View Post
    In fact, seems like someone is selling a lock bar and the pin for < $25. I would definitely buy it: https://www.ebay.com/p/VW-AUDI-V6-Ca....c100005.m1851
    What this gentleman said about locking the engine

    As far as my experience with the pads vs tension assembly failing first... neither one to be honest. I have seen high mileage engines 150K+ with perfect looking pads and tension assemblies, as well as same mileage engines that looked like hell. Proper maintenance (oil change) and filter changes (I always change out the filter half way through a maintenance cycle) prevents a great deal of unnecessary wear and coking. Heat cycles is the biggest enemy of the tension pads as they can become brittle and fracture. The tension assembly itself... I have never personally seen a failure. I have seen one that the actuation solenoid failed (shorted out), and I just removed it and put a "used but good" solenoid in its place. To recondition one of these, I simply remove the solenoid, remove all internal parts (plastic piston, spring(s), etc, place in a ultrasonic cleaner with a non-caustic solution, 15 mins later you have a "very" clean housing and internal passages. lightly coat components with oil, reassemble and install. Word of caution with these... when you open your engine up visually inspect the chain and tension assembly before touching anything. Sometimes, (rarely) the large internal spring that provides the main tension force when no oil pressure is commanded/applied by the ECU, becomes weak or fractured, It will be very apparent.

    Also remember that Bank 1 (N205) and Bank 2 (N208) tension assemblies are different from each other and carry different part numbers. don't mix and match.
    Watcher

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings m_haiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 24 2011
    AZ Member #
    74529
    My Garage
    Highland Green Allroad
    Location
    Oregon Coast

    Quote Originally Posted by climb4hope View Post
    There is a plastic plug on the left side of the engine behind the intercooler pipe. Unscrew 10mm bolt and there is a special tool that you bolt in instead of the plug. There is a hole in the crankshaft assembly that you need to align this will be your TDC position. The special tool is very inexpensive an is like $10 on ebay or so.

    Also if you have a lock bar for the cam sprockets, you don't necessarily need to mark the sprocket positions. The lock bar is $45-50. If you ever plan to do timing belt yourself or take it out in the future it is worth to invest, otherwise do marks for a one time job.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here's the link for the tool to lock the crankshaft: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18mm-VW-Aud...cAAOSwMVdYESzb
    fwiw my plug was an 8mm allen and made of aluminum. and a giant PITA to reach without removing intercooler hose first

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Quote Originally Posted by m_haiser View Post
    fwiw my plug was an 8mm allen and made of aluminum. and a giant PITA to reach without removing intercooler hose first
    I donít remember what was there originally but it could be that I swapped it for a 10mm bolt as it is much easier to unscrew it that way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Watcher0691 View Post
    BTW... Did all of you in the Audi world know that you can rebuild your existing Cam Chain Tension assemblies?

    I do!

    I will try and find some time to document with pics and all how simple and inexpensive you can do this in the coming week.
    Would really appreciate an info on the tensioners rebuild!

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    64156
    My Garage
    S6 Avant X TWO! and 67' Speed buggy
    Location
    Central Wash

    Quote Originally Posted by Watcher0691 View Post
    Good question!!

    1. Engine at TDC and locked to prevent rotation.

    2. Lock camshaft and release belt tension

    .
    Locking the engine is nice, but I've come down to not even bothering since you can almost NOT get this job done without turning the engine just a bit; either when removing the camshaft to get that extra bit of slack in the chain or when reinstalling.

    And not to nit-pick, you seem very thorough...but whats this about locking camshafts and how does it help? You almost MUST remove the intake cam on bank 1, and there's NO way around it on bank 2. So..how does locking camshafts helps the cam tensioner/ seal/ pad procedure ? For the timing belt part, sure..
    foley803 : What does an electrical surge sound like? Barking dogs? Watermelons?

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings climb4hope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    390861
    My Garage
    01 Allroad 2.7T manual, 02 Allroad 2.7T auto
    Location
    Seattle/WA

    Quote Originally Posted by rollerton View Post
    And not to nit-pick, you seem very thorough...but whats this about locking camshafts and how does it help? You almost MUST remove the intake cam on bank 1, and there's NO way around it on bank 2. So..how does locking camshafts helps the cam tensioner/ seal/ pad procedure ? For the timing belt part, sure..
    You have to reinstall the timing belt correctly somehow, right ? Locking is just for that part of the job :)



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