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Thread: 1.8T sludge?

  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    1.8T sludge?

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    So does the 1.8T get sludge or not?

    I hear from some people that it does, but others come back and argue that they disagree. That it does not.
    And that the larger capacity filter Audi switched to, is supposed to help prevent that.
    I think the stock filter years ago was smaller, but now it's bigger and adds oil capacity, maybe bumping total capacity up to like 4.7 liters or something.
    Mann 940/25 I think.

    And I hear there's even bigger filters that can fit, which might come from Volvos, if you look them up in the Mann+Hummel filter catalog.
    I hope there's no compatibility issues. Such as if they spec a different bypass pressure in the filter spring.

    Anyway. What would the sludge come from? The way the previous owner treated the car?
    Since they're old with miles, and are likely no longer on the first owner.

    I hear certain oils have cleaning power, that you can use to slowly and safely clean the engine.
    Versus more aggressive fast methods. Because supposedly they can loosen up debris that can clog the oil pickup screen, that sucks oil from the oil-pan to get pumped through the engine.

    So to this I ask, is an aggressive clean worth doing? How would it be done?
    I see that many engine clean products exist on the market, including being stocked on auto parts store shelves.
    However, there is also the company Lubro-Moly, which seems to like claiming it's a quality German car parts company. Is it?
    And if so, is their Engine Flush worth using?

    If it is, should other things be done at the same time? What if the flush clogs the pickup? Should the pickup be manually cleaned or replaced immediately after?
    This would add additional steps to the job, such as dropping the oil pan to access it, and cleaning the pan to re-install it with a new gasket or sealant.



    Maybe BG has a product for this?

    Is there still oil cleaner residue left inside the engine after a flush, that should be cleaned out by running a flush oil and a quick additional oil change after that?
    One candidate would be Mobil 1 0w40 European Formula. $22 Wal-Mart rollback price + M1 Rebate form, brings them down to $12/jug (5L).

    Also, why did someone smear axle grease on the cam-shafts at 0:40 of the video and then wipe it off at 1:12...
    That techno music makes it sound like this $15 bottle of Engine Flush will add 500hp to my car.

    Or is this just snake oil designed to make money off of people who don't know better, and want a feel-good mod,
    in other words, mods that don't actually do anything, but make you feel good like you took care of the car, due to spending money on it and being a "responsible owner"

    This is a car with ACTUAL sludge (Audi TT), because the oil wasn't changed for 84k miles.
    I doubt an Engine Flush would make a difference on it, and none of our cars are neglected this bad.
    And the camshaft lobes are still clean because they're in constant physical contact with the lifters.


  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Sludge was a problem with the early B6's. It really wasn't an engine specific problem as much as it was a maintenance issue. At that time Audi recommended a 10k oil change interval and also used non-synthetic motor oil. Keep in mind that the B6 also has a mapped cooling system that runs the engine at higher operating temperatures that a standard thermostat controlled operating system. All of this created the perfect storm for oil sludge formation.

    In late 2003 Audi switched to the larger filter along with synthetic oil. The 2003 model also added an additional breather hose to the block breathing system to increase the amount of block purge. This combination pretty much eliminated the sludge formation issue. As long as you use the larger filter combined with a decent synthetic oil you shouldn't have any issue with sludge.
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  3. #3
    Active Member Four Rings EuroxS4's Avatar
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    sludge was a issue up until mid 2003 thats when the pcv system was changed to deal with the sludge issue.Yes BG had a machine for flushing the engine while is running.Lookup BG dynamic engine cleaner.BG Part No. 103192.Also there was a filter and a machine to catch all the sludge coming out of the engine as it was running.However doing something like this at home if you dont have a sludge problem is asking for a problem if you ask me.If you change your oil regularly with good synthetic oil you shouldnt have a issue.
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Sludge was a problem with the early B6's. It really wasn't an engine specific problem as much as it was a maintenance issue. At that time Audi recommended a 10k oil change interval and also used non-synthetic motor oil. Keep in mind that the B6 also has a mapped cooling system that runs the engine at higher operating temperatures that a standard thermostat controlled operating system. All of this created the perfect storm for oil sludge formation.

    In late 2003 Audi switched to the larger filter along with synthetic oil. The 2003 model also added an additional breather hose to the block breathing system to increase the amount of block purge. This combination pretty much eliminated the sludge formation issue. As long as you use the larger filter combined with a decent synthetic oil you shouldn't have any issue with sludge.
    I think the Mann filter says on the side, that it claims to last up to 10,000 miles. Or KM.
    Either way, just because that's the maximum lifespan, doesn't mean I have to use it up to that all the time.
    Also, wouldn't the filter media get clogged, increasing the pressure and forcing the bypass valve (inside the filter) to open, so that the oil flow bypasses the filter media? Which would retain oil flow, but let the oil flow unfiltered.

    I didn't know they used dino oil back in this (turbo) engine.
    These engines DO seem pretty hot, and to warm up to hot temperature fast. I never really knew why...
    I've heard that said about Audi engines before. That they have they "tend to run hot", and that this is also why a 0w40 or 5w40 (40 hot temp viscosity) oil is recommended, especially in a hot summer, versus 5w30 or 0w30 which would get too thin at operating temp. Unless I'm not understanding this correctly.

    I think it's not just Audi who advertised 10k services, and maybe this is done to make owners feel like the car is somehow inherently cheap to own, maintenance-free, reliable, special, and better than competitor cars.

    Makes me wonder if certain enthusiast-owned oil change regimens are overkill. Every now and then, I see people drooling over a car that has "Oil changed every 3k" or something, proudly listed in it's description. Versus say, every 5k mi, which I think is the interval that most here subscribe to.
    And if your daily commute has some miles on it, a 3k interval can pop up pretty quickly.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gin+'s Avatar
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    I go 10k-ish between changes. Mobile1 0w40+Mann W940/25
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