2.7T Oil Analysis Thread

[AllroadCorbin]

Hi All,

For starters if this type of data dump thread already exists then please direct me there or mods please delete this. I searched and didn't see one like this...just mainly aimless discussion with people saying one motor oil was better than another without much technical back up. Most name brand full synthetics are "good enough" and if you run fairly short change intervals it likely doesn't a ton which you run. But...I love data and facts. For those of you who have performed a blackstone analysis or similar for your 2.7t powered car, and would like to contribute to this, please post the following:

Year, Model, Mileage, High level mods (Stage 2, K04, K24, 770...whatever is relevant), A word or two describing how you drove it mostly during the interval (stop and go, aggressive, track, all highway, hot weather, cold) and anything else relevant you noticed....oh and a picture of the Blackstone report!. My recent Redline 5w-40 sample is out and I'm awaiting my results.

[Jakub.J]

Pretty good idea, I like it. Hope it will snow ball sooner than later. I'll contribute as soon as my moody princess is all finished up.

[LJS]

I sent Blackstone Labs an email requesting their free sample container/packaging kit...I'll post results when I get the report back...
THANKS for your efforts here....

[MacDaddy]

Blackstones analysis consists of “looks good to me” use a company that does oil samples for the HD industry, they tell you whats in your oil where its comming from and if its an issue or not, with multi million dollar equipment “looks good” doesnt cut it.

[LJS]

Blackstones analysis consists of “looks good to me” use a company that does oil samples for the HD industry, they tell you whats in your oil where its comming from and if its an issue or not, with multi million dollar equipment “looks good” doesnt cut it.

Appreciate your opinion but would ask what would you recommend as an alternative...From what I've read of the companies offering this type of analysis all seem to use the same battery of tests as detailed by the API and other standards groups.....

[AllroadCorbin]

Blackstones analysis consists of “looks good to me” use a company that does oil samples for the HD industry, they tell you whats in your oil where its comming from and if its an issue or not, with multi million dollar equipment “looks good” doesnt cut it.

That’s exactly what blackstone does... they measure parts per million of all kinds of metals, fluids and contaminants and tell you where that relates to in terms of wear or what could be broken or leaking if a fluid is diluting your oil. Have you seen the actually read outs they send? They’re very detailed. You also can get the TBN number remaining, viscosities and universal averages for your exact engine at a given mileage.


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[MacDaddy]

I use AGAT who are local to me, their analysis will tell you if the material is from the block, crank, bearing surfaces, contamination, etc.

Like if your bottom end bearings have worn through the babbit they will tell you. All the blackstone reports ive seen are to the effect that the oil is “good” and to keep using it.

Where as AGAT will tell you where the stuff in your oil is coming from in the engine and if its at levels you need to concern yourself with.

[AllroadCorbin]

The blackstone report is good imo. If you know enough you can tell where the metal contents that show up come from. I guess I just like the Blackstone reports because it’s a simple and familiar / easy to compare format for a thread like this. But point taken


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[AllroadCorbin]

I really want to see somebody’s report with a K04/rs6/ or K24/ 770 car running amsoil 5w-40 DEO.


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[dannyn424]

amsoil consistently rates as the best performing oil but is hard to get.... Ive seen mobil 0w40 rated pretty high as well, better than the mobil 5w40 TDT which i like to run. However, i run the lubromoly mos2 supplement with every oil change. In my opinion you should be looking at real oil addatives like lubromoly mos2, ceratec and archoil 9100.

[christianb5s4]

I should have this done for my next oil change, the car uses Motul 300v 5w40 with some Lucas zinc additive (because E85).

[AllroadCorbin]

I’m never adding anything to the oil that doesn’t come out of the can again. Every time that someone has tested and oil for film strength or any other property that is beneficial adding something to the already existing formula has actually decreased performance. Typically the different additives and oil our place in there in balanced levels and adding extra amounts of certain things can cancel out the benefits of others.

As far as PAO synthetics, amsoil from all the different used oil analysis reports I’ve read has scored extremely well. Mobile 0w –40 Has very promising numbers in virgin oil analysis reports but has been shown to shear down to a 30 weight pretty quickly under high temperature high load conditions.

Liqui Moly seems to be a good PAO group 4 synthetic from the various oil reports I have read but in testing that MOS2 supplement is completely useless and does nothing like Every other additive that you can put in.

I am currently running Moto 300v 5- 40. The biggest benefit about the 300v over something like liqui Moly or Amsoil, is that it is Esther based. It is not a PAO synthetic. It is rated for 0% shear at 392°F. At 392 a PAO synthetic would be breaking down really damn quick. The various tests I have read have actually proved this to be true. Esther based wheels have incredibly high discuss the stability and TBn retention. The other nifty thing about master based Wells is that they are highly polar so they stick to everything like the dickens. There is some article somewhere where a guy was trying to clean out the used motor that had been running redline (the other Esther based one) and he noted how damn hard it was to get oil residue off of the motor components.

Upon putting the 300v into my Allroad I noticed oil temperatures were 10° cooler at 90 mph cruise then previously and mpg went up. I also kept noticing how Rev happy the motor felt. I’m a typical bully her that most things are complete snake oil but this really actually felt a little bit different. I think the anti-friction properties of 300v are legit. I will post a UA from both the allroad and the S4 when it is done

Sorry for any typos I used Siri to write the entire thing



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[AllroadCorbin]

I should have this done for my next oil change, the car uses Motul 300v 5w40 with some Lucas zinc additive (because E85).

300v already has a hefty zddp dose. What does e85 have to do with using the additive?


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[christianb5s4]

I lied, it's for the turbos more than anything. SRM recommends a high zinc oil. Personally, the only noticeable difference I've seen with Motul vs. Mobil Delvac or others is the motor runs quieter and somewhat smoother. I didn't use any additive for my last oil change with 300v but then again I change it based on time not mileage which is due to the car not being a DD anymore.

[AllroadCorbin]

I lied, it's for the turbos more than anything. SRM recommends a high zinc oil. Personally, the only noticeable difference I've seen with Motul vs. Mobil Delvac or others is the motor runs quieter and somewhat smoother. I didn't use any additive for my last oil change with 300v but then again I change it based on time not mileage which is due to the car not being a DD anymore.

Yea the zinc is really for flat tappet cams. Zddp is generally speaking a good anti wear additive. Sean has a list of high zddp oils. Some seem good to me but personally I don’t want to run a 50 weight in my 2.7. Spec for the stock motor clearances/tolerances is 30 or 40 weight. I’d worry a 50 would put unnecessary strain on the oil pump and not get to where it needs to go as well and / or as fast as it should. A lot of guys run it np so it’s prob just me being overly careful. Motors are expensive, turbos are cheap lol. On the topic of delvac - a rep from Amsoil actually told me not to buy their 5w-40 signature series DEO or other diesel oil for the S4 because the detergents meant to eliminate and suspend soot can cause something called “cam washing”. Honestly haven’t a clue what that is but I went along with it haha. but I guess stuff like Rotella T6 which everybody and their mother uses clearly isn’t killing any motors


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[dannyn424]

I’ve never heard of cam washing and can confirm that 5w40 tdt has been great in my car along with dose of mos2.. I only use otc oils now and in particular tdt. I’ve used amsoil before and rotella t6.. I prefer tdt over t6 due to better cold start performance ..and tdt has high level of zinc ....mos2 is very effective as an oil additive and widely used in industry....I’ve also noticed better cold start performance with it and highly recommend the combo

[RocksForsSale]

I’m kinda torn between different oils right now. I had run previously m1 0w40 but looking for a change.

I’m thinking either Castrol 0w40 as it’s a group IV if it’s the same as the one over in Germany, or Motul Xcess 5w40. The Motuls a bit more unless I buy 20 gallons, then it’s a bargain. Basically pays for a free oil change if I do.

I don’t rag my car enough for 300v, but that stuff definitely isn’t cheap.

I change every 3-5k or about every 6 months.


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[AllroadCorbin]

I’m kinda torn between different oils right now. I had run previously m1 0w40 but looking for a change.

I’m thinking either Castrol 0w40 as it’s a group IV if it’s the same as the one over in Germany, or Motul Xcess 5w40. The Motuls a bit more unless I buy 20 gallons, then it’s a bargain. Basically pays for a free oil change if I do.

I don’t rag my car enough for 300v, but that stuff definitely isn’t cheap.

I change every 3-5k or about every 6 months.


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If you change it every 3-5k then just get some Liqui Moly 5-40 off FCP euro. They replace it for free every time / any time you want to do any oil change. Order the new oil and send the old oil back in the new containers. Then they credit your CC


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[RocksForsSale]

If you change it every 3-5k then just get some Liqui Moly 5-40 off FCP euro. They replace it for free every time / any time you want to do any oil change. Order the new oil and send the old oil back in the new containers. Then they credit your CC


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I think I looked into that once, and the mailing part of it was either expensive / not cost effective and/or also hazardous for usps.

Do you do this?

I would typically just walk into AZ or AA and grab a 0w40 m1 oil special and another quart but I guess we take 7 quarts, so by the time I actually add up with tax I mind as well just order something online here since I get tagged on the single quarts.


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[AllroadCorbin]

I think I looked into that once, and the mailing part of it was either expensive / not cost effective and/or also hazardous for usps.

Do you do this?

I would typically just walk into AZ or AA and grab a 0w40 m1 oil special and another quart but I guess we take 7 quarts, so by the time I actually add up with tax I mind as well just order something online here since I get tagged on the single quarts.


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Yep. It costs like $15 to mail it back. For $120 worth of 300v oil that’s a steal lol. It’s still cheaper than buying $45 of shitty Mobil 1


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[RocksForsSale]

Wow so you mail back the 300v every 3-5k?m and it works?


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[RocksForsSale]

Yep. It costs like $15 to mail it back. For $120 worth of 300v oil that’s a steal lol. It’s still cheaper than buying $45 of shitty Mobil 1


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Is this every time you need a change? Or just one replacement, and then buy a replacement?


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[AllroadCorbin]

Is this every time you need a change? Or just one replacement, and then buy a replacement?


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Buy it at full price once and then you basically only pay the shipping back on every oil change going forward


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[RocksForsSale]

Yeah I see that on another searches thread. This has been working out for your with 300v?


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[AllroadCorbin]

Yeah I see that on another searches thread. This has been working out for your with 300v?


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It works on any oil you buy from them. They’re like the LL bean of car parts. They actively encourage this practice... mainly because most people are too lazy to do it haha. You can literally buy $100 worth of 300v. Track the fuck out of your car, order New 300v a week later, send the tracked oil back, and get credited for it


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[RocksForsSale]

Ya I understand, but do you actually do this with 300v. I mean it’s not particularly more expensive.


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[AllroadCorbin]

Ya I understand, but do you actually do this with 300v. I mean it’s not particularly more expensive.


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Yes


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[RocksForsSale]

Wow that’s amazing, so purchase once and you’re multiple changes free on it besides the return costs? How many have you gone through? Is there a “kit” per se or just order 7 liters and filter?


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[AllroadCorbin]

Wow that’s amazing, so purchase once and you’re multiple changes free on it besides the return costs? How many have you gone through? Is there a “kit” per se or just order 7 liters and filter?


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Just order 7 and a filter. I’m on my second with the 300v. On my second with my gfs Jetta 1.4T (Liqui Moly) and was on my second with my B8.5 Allroad. Just ordered the first kit for my B9 Allroad using Liqui Moly as well.


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[AllroadCorbin]

Just order 7 and a filter. I’m on my second with the 300v. On my second with my gfs Jetta 1.4T (Liqui Moly) and was on my second with my B8.5 Allroad. Just ordered the first kit for my B9 Allroad using Liqui Moly as well. Deff change out 300v every 3-4K Miles. Not a lot of detergents in it. But it’s magic for friction and protection as it is full Esther based and doesn’t really shear at all up to like 400 degrees


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[RocksForsSale]

Second free? Or original + 1? Just seems too good to be true on a 130 whatever oil change.


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[RocksForsSale]

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So on fcp’s site you can only order it in 2 liter containers?? Do you order 6 or 8? Don’t see the 4L or 1L just listed.


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[avant1987]

Anyone who has done this with FCP - What is procedure for mailing motor oil back to fcp euro. What carrier do you use, and how do you package the oil aside from putting it into the old containers?


Thanks!


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[AllroadCorbin]

Anyone who has done this with FCP - What is procedure for mailing motor oil back to fcp euro. What carrier do you use, and how do you package the oil aside from putting it into the old containers?


Thanks!


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Oil containers, some plastic wrap, postal service, same box it came in.


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[TheMysticWizard]

I can't believe the allow this type of thing... Reminds me of Autozone brake pads on my beater. Wear them thin and then take those back and get a new set.

I almost felt bad, I just can't fathom they'd of it with oil... I might have to buy in to this.

[e30mclow]

Is the only reason you're getting away with that because they think you're sending back unopened oil, and they're restocking it?

There is absolutely no way that it can be their intention to refund you for a replacement consumable such as oil under their "Lifetime Warranty".

[RocksForsSale]

Is the only reason you're getting away with that because they think you're sending back unopened oil, and they're restocking it?

There is absolutely no way that it can be their intention to refund you for a replacement consumable such as oil under their "Lifetime Warranty".

Na they do, they even have a video about the oil and all about it and how to send it back.


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[e30mclow]

Is the only reason you're getting away with that because they think you're sending back unopened oil, and they're restocking it?

There is absolutely no way that it can be their intention to refund you for a replacement consumable such as oil under their "Lifetime Warranty".

Good grief....
https://www.facebook.com/RoosterHall...4718832367203/

[DavidAR]

Is the only reason you're getting away with that because they think you're sending back unopened oil, and they're restocking it?

There is absolutely no way that it can be their intention to refund you for a replacement consumable such as oil under their "Lifetime Warranty".

That's my thinking also.

[RocksForsSale]

Good grief....
https://www.facebook.com/RoosterHall...4718832367203/

Can’t read link


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