2.7T Oil Analysis Thread

[RocksForsSale]

https://youtu.be/kYsJc5BsPO4 I got it from google but yeah this is the video.


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[AllroadCorbin]

That's my thinking also.

No. They want you to send back the used shit. It’s what they do. For god sake haha. If you’re skeptical and don’t want to do it then don’t haha


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[DavidAR]

Good grief....
https://www.facebook.com/RoosterHall...4718832367203/

Honestly, this business model only works because few customers take advantage of it. If everyone started participating it would be gone. I would feel unscrupulous about sending back used oil and getting it replaced for free. As I am sure many others would.

[RocksForsSale]

I don’t see it that way, as their prices are slightly higher. They also only really lose on this for certain items, but gain your business on others for the most part.

I’ve never done it because in the past it didn’t make sense for shipping back an oil change where I’m spending 50 bucks locally then 15-20 to mail it. But at like 150 that’s a different story.

They are certainly losing out, but maybe big picture not so much competitive advantage-wise.


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[AllroadCorbin]

Honestly, this business model only works because few customers take advantage of it. If everyone started participating it would be gone. I would feel unscrupulous about sending back used oil and getting it replaced for free. As I am sure many others would.

It’s not my problem. They offer it. They encourage it. I’m guessing they don’t sell much oil... mostly other hardware which is usually not shit Chinese stuff... and usually lasts longer than the owner has the vehicle.

They literally copied LL beans customer retention business strategy that worked out realllllllyyyyy damn well


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[DavidAR]

It’s not my problem. They offer it. They encourage it. I’m guessing they don’t sell much oil... mostly other hardware which is usually not shit Chinese stuff... and usually lasts longer than the owner has the vehicle.

They literally copied LL beans customer retention business strategy that worked out realllllllyyyyy damn well


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I think you are right about not selling a lot of oil and just making money on other quality parts. So many people abused the L.L. Bean guarantee that it no longer exists.

[RocksForsSale]

Anyone else run the Motul 300v? Is it worth forking out the initial extra $

Def going away from m1 as it recently changed formula and lost some ratings. I notice it sounds a bit different after even 2-3k but no real proof.

I was just gonna jump to Castrol 0w40, as that’s a group iv if it’s the same as the stuff marketed in Germany.

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[AllroadCorbin]

Anyone else run the Motul 300v? Is it worth forking out the initial extra $

Def going away from m1 as it recently changed formula and lost some ratings. I notice it sounds a bit different after even 2-3k but no real proof.

I was just gonna jump to Castrol 0w40, as that’s a group iv if it’s the same as the stuff marketed in Germany.

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Go on bobistheoilguy.com and look up the UOAs for 300v. It’s stellar. No real need for it though unless your car takes a beating and is pushing a lot of power. 8100xcess or Liqui Moly will suffice


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[RocksForsSale]

Go on bobistheoilguy.com and look up the UOAs for 300v. It’s stellar. No real need for it though unless your car takes a beating and is pushing a lot of power. 8100xcess or Liqui Moly will suffice


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I’m installing k24s soon so will be more power hopefully by next season. I think you run them as well?


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[AllroadCorbin]

I’m installing k24s soon so will be more power hopefully by next season. I think you run them as well?


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Yes K24s on meth


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[DavidAR]

Anyone else run the Motul 300v? Is it worth forking out the initial extra $

Def going away from m1 as it recently changed formula and lost some ratings. I notice it sounds a bit different after even 2-3k but no real proof.

I was just gonna jump to Castrol 0w40, as that’s a group iv if it’s the same as the stuff marketed in Germany.

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Thanks for the info on Mobil 1. I wasn't aware of the formulation change. I have been using 0W-40 European blend in my 2.7T. Will look for something else.

[RocksForsSale]

Yeah I was reading something on BobistheOilguy in regards to bmw guys talking about it losing the ll-01 rating. Also recent stuff about it sheering to a 30w rather quickly. It’s been my go to as well, I dunno Castrol 0w40 euro seems to be the next good one off the shelf price wise.


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[DavidAR]

Yeah I was reading something on BobistheOilguy in regards to bmw guys talking about it losing the ll-01 rating. Also recent stuff about it sheering to a 30w rather quickly. It’s been my go to as well, I dunno Castrol 0w40 euro seems to be the next good one off the shelf price wise.


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I have been using Castrol 5w-40 Edge that VW-Audi recommends in my 2015 Allroad. At this point I can't say anything bad or good about it.

[RocksForsSale]

https://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic...pecifications/

Here’s the info about the change maybe 2 years ago? But there is also another recent change for something with the 2019 corvette.



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[e30mclow]

Can’t read link


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It is FCP's Facebook page, confirming free replacement oil.
Now I've seen everything!

[DavidAR]

https://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic...pecifications/

Here’s the info about the change maybe 2 years ago? But there is also another recent change for something with the 2019 corvette.



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Thanks.

[PoVolks]

It is FCP's Facebook page, confirming free replacement oil.
Now I've seen everything!

I've been using FCP since they were called FCP Groton (the town its in) and have yet to send back liquids or oils. It is a biz model that banks on people not going through with actually sending the items back. For wiper blades, brake pads, air and pollen filters its awesome. Shipping costs are at an all time high unfortunately making it even more of a headache .

Lets get back to the analysis part of this thread. Does anyone have a good recommended method for break-in oil process and what they use and how often changed?

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[CELison]

I've been using FCP since they were called FCP Groton (the town its in) and have yet to send back liquids or oils. It is a biz model that banks on people not going through with actually sending the items back. For wiper blades, brake pads, air and pollen filters its awesome. Shipping costs are at an all time high unfortunately making it even more of a headache .

Lets get back to the analysis part of this thread. Does anyone have a good recommended method for break-in oil process and what they use and how often changed?

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You ask 10 people and you'll get 11 answers so keep that in mind. Here's what I did:

Brad penn break in for start up. Let the car get to temp, checked for leaks and general fuck ups, got the assembly lube nice and hot so it mixed with the oil well. Drained and refilled again with Brad Penn. Drove it for about 200 miles, lots of vac and varying RPM. Didn't baby it. Drained and filled with conventional 5w40. That's what's currently in the car now. Going to run that until 500 miles then switch to synthetic.

[Silverex]

I did basically the same thing…BP break in get it up to temp with rpms at 2-2500, drain and refill with BP break in, used that for a couple hundred miles then switches to some cheap Dino oil. Ran the cheap oil until about 1500miles and changed it about 2-3 more times before switching to synthetic. Probably alil over kill but wanted to keep checking to make sure less and less metal was in each oil change.
Engine has about 40k on it now, burns no oil, and has good compression.