ps2cho's 2016 Allroad thread

[ps2cho]

Update on brake calipers...took some time after being busy.

-After about 10x bleeding, I FINALLY got all the air out and the brake pedal is now acting like normal, I knew it was just stubborn air. I can tell you the pedal feel is 95% the same as stock now except it does not have that aggressive bite as much (which makes daily driving smoother rather than jerking you forward at the slightest touch). This may be the pad choice over the caliper, but I REALLY like the feel now, its so much better than stock.

The issue I think happened (well almost certain) was that I removed the reservoir cap and left it off. I then did the brake job and I think the level probably got a tad low in the master cylinder because the cap wasn't left on and thus got some air in the MC and it took a ton of bleeding to get it all out via the calipers. I didn't think I lost that much fluid, but the reason why I believe this was that I rebled the rear brakes again and got a LOT of air that came out after about 100ml of fluid, which tells me it was further up the line. The other thing that may have helped was I used 20psi on the pressure bleeder rather than 8-10psi that I was using before. (***NOTE**** Be VERY careful over 10psi if you have a motive bleeder. The hose motive gives you will EXPLODE if its more than 1-2 years old. The brake fluid eats the line. Dont ask me how I know this!!! This was the biggest reason I bought the Schwaben Bleeder after the motive one exploded and caused an hour of clean up a few years back. I completely covered the bleeder and hose with a thick towel JUST in case, but everything was good - I think the hose on the Schwaben bleeder is higher quality (and I've owned this bleeder I think 3/4 years now. I plan to get some thick fuel hose soon that is resistant even if its not see-through, I can be sure it wont blow up****)

Either way problem solved now and it drives great. I'll probably do one final bleed after a thousand miles as I'm sure there may be a few leftover bubbles, but I'm almost certain its 95-98% air-free.

Next up is the 5500k Morimoto Xenon bulbs in the next week or two, stay tuned!

[inception]

Thanks for the write up


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[NathanGreatScott]

Awesome upgrade! I plan on doing this when it comes time to replace my brakes. Thanks for writing up your experience and tips

[ps2cho]

Awesome upgrade! I plan on doing this when it comes time to replace my brakes. Thanks for writing up your experience and tips

The nice thing about it is that it’s plug and play. No messing around with 3rd party brackets like the 19z calipers. Get the calipers, pick your choice of rotor and pad combo, install and bleed (without making same mistake as me and letting air in MC) and you’re done!

[NathanGreatScott]

The nice thing about it is that it’s plug and play. No messing around with 3rd party brackets like the 19z calipers. Get the calipers, pick your choice of rotor and pad combo, install and bleed (without making same mistake as me and letting air in MC) and you’re done!

Exactly! And it's relatively cheap!

[ps2cho]

Got a request to post the rear dash cam install. You can see its incredibly clean. Wires are ran through the panel and then up the hinge. It was pretty easy to do and I didnt have to take off any panels - was able to fish it through. The hinge has a plastic trim piece that just pops off to run the wire through there.

Also got my JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 and got rid of the DIY one I made temporarily. This thing is incredible!! It takes up almost no space whatsoever and sounds like a 12" sub. It has MORE than enough power unless you're still 16-years old and trying to show off (to the rest of us, a moron). It fills the entire car and there's no way I'd want anything more than this. Just need to figure out the best option to tie it down now.



Still can't say enough good things about this canvasback cover enough either. The rear will stay literally brand new and I have no concerns about putting the dogs in the rear. Its waterproof and looks like its going to hold up forever. Looks fantastic too!

[ScottNH]

Excellent job on the rear dashcam install. It looks factory.

Did you come down the driver's side or passenger side with the cable for the camera?

[ps2cho]

Excellent job on the rear dashcam install. It looks factory.

Did you come down the driver's side or passenger side with the cable for the camera?

I went down the passenger side as the fuse box I used was on the passenger side. I imagine there would be no difference doing the driver side as I just slipped the cord under the weatherstripping and the inner panels. Was very easy, took 15mins.

[ps2cho]

Next up on the Allroad will be both a front & rear differential fluid change. I will do the transfer case fluid in the future, its not forgotten about. The fluid cost for the transfer case fluid is pretty crazy ($93/L!! although fill is 0.8L), so wanted to be sure its right before I ordered any and figured F&R will keep me busy in the interim :)

Going to use OE Audi 75w-90 fluid:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...5w90-g052145s2
Part# g052145s2




Factory manual says its 1L for both Front & Rear. There's usually some leftover, 50-100ml still in the diff even after a drain, so I think 2L should be OK as long as I am careful not to spill any.
Some will say way overkill for 25k on the odometer, but when I did our Jeep Wrangler's diff fluid at 30k, it was this horrible milky grey color. I think its either special fluid, or from the break-in. Either way, I'd prefer to get any initial wear out of the fluid.

[19birel]

Just to clarify, these cars do not have a transfer case. They utilize a Torsen center differential inside of the transmission case. As far as I'm aware you can change the center diff's fluid as well, but I just thought I'd point out that there is no separate transfer case.

[kevlarcupid]

Love your thread, you’re inspiring me to do one of my own for my car. Regarding your rear camera, did your remove the C-pillar cover to run the cable through the hinge? Or are you doing something like in this diagram, where the red is a little exposed cable that we just can’t see in the photo, and the green is all tucked away nicely in the interior trim?

[Allthea]

Great thread. Subbed for updates

[ps2cho]

Love your thread, you’re inspiring me to do one of my own for my car. Regarding your rear camera, did your remove the C-pillar cover to run the cable through the hinge? Or are you doing something like in this diagram, where the red is a little exposed cable that we just can’t see in the photo, and the green is all tucked away nicely in the interior trim?

Nope! no wires exposed anywhere. No panels need to be removed at all. With the plastic trim tool that came with the BlackVue camera you can pry enough to run the wires the entire way.

The plastic that covers the hinge pops off. You run the wire up there and then simply fish the wire under the rear window panel across to roughly the center. It was a tad tricky fishing it from one side of the panel to where the rear camera is located, but it’s doable especially if you use a coat hanger or something to aid.

[ps2cho]

Quick update:
Been busy trying to resolve an ongoing clunk on my E350, think I’ve finally figured it out and pressing in a new bushing this week.

Although yesterday I was playing around in VCDS and spotted the setting to put the drive gear up on the display. It now shows D-x for the gear it’s in. Nice to now know where the car is shifting especially at low speeds or quick acceleration!

Was very easy to program - go to the transmission module - adaptation, then in the drop down it lists gear display D-on/S-on. By default it is D-off/S-off and you can juggle between ie let’s say you only want the gear to show in sport mode you can pick D-off/S-on

[ps2cho]

Dropped the car off this morning for the After-Run coolant pump final service. Had the disconnect in place so now get the reconnection and updated pump. Now less concerned for the summer!

In typical fashion, dealer tried to upsell me an alignment without even looking at the car- just said he recommends every 20k miles. Yeah...no. If the car needs an alignment then bushings are worn, it’s as simple as that. I don’t see any signs of inside tire wear and when I bought the car at 18k the CPO aligned it anyway.

Got a 2018 A6 2.0T as a loaner. Don’t like the interior at all, but I’ll tell you the 3rd gen 2.0T definitely has more bottom end torque. I’m curious how they were able to get it because it’s there another 800rpm quicker than my 2.0T before the turbo is spooled up.

[ps2cho]

Got the car back, can hear the after-run coolant pump working now so glad it’s done!

Funny story - my dash cam picked up the dealer tech pointing out the Porsche brakes, he took a photo of his phone. Bet they never see this! :)

(No creeping), was using the dash cam to verify they did in fact change the oil and filter and he happened to spot it mid oil change.

[ps2cho]

Here's a the clip of the dealer spotting the Porsche brake calipers for some fun!



-Got the car nice a hot today, plugged in my VCDS tool to make sure no error codes from the after-run coolant pump and everything is clear.

-While plugged in, checked the camshaft phase and its showing -1.60deg, so everything looking good at 26k miles. I want to keep a good record of it so I can see how it wears over time compared to my oil change intervals at 3,500-5,000.

-One unfortunate thing is looks like the dealer overfilled the crankcase with oil. VCDS is measuring 88mm and my ECSTuning dipstick is reading beyond MAX. I tried doing some searching to make sure that its not the ECSTuning dipstick that is the wrong length, but it seems most people are saying full is 80mm, so I believe they've overfilled by a good 1/2 quart. Going to remove tomorrow and get it dead back on max. On the dash it reads full.

My only thoughts are either negligence, or theres so many B8's that burn oil they decide to overfill deliberately. Well I dont burn a drop so far, so not a good thing for me.

[kevlarcupid]

My car also came from the dealer overfilled though I don’t yet have a dipstick to measure it. The dash said it was too full. When I had my shop inspect it, I asked them to drain enough off. Need to order a dipstick.

[Das Ponto]

Congrats on the allroad, nice little brake upgrade... thinking that might have to be in the future for mine.

[ps2cho]

Haven't driven the car more than twice since the dealer did the 25k service. Good thing too -- I got around today to siphon out the overfilled oil. I removed ~1.2qt of oil BEFORE I hit the MAX on the dipstick!!
Also, I can see the scratch where they carelessly removed the engine cover and threw it to the side. I watched it on the dash cam, but didn't save the clip since I didn't think much of it other than thinking "careless"...

Its almost not even worth using the AudiCare. Whats the 35k service, spark plugs and an oil change, MAYBE an air filter and a cabin filter? So I'll save what, $70 between the two? The time dropping it off and picking it up is the time I'll spend doing it anyway...Then I dont have to deal with imbeciles who DGAF about the car they are working on.

Maybe its better to just keep the dash cam off so these things are out of sight, out of mind...

So lets rate the 25k service at the dealer..
-1.25qt overfilled oil, Check.
-1/4 gal coolant low, Check.
-scratched engine cover (minor, but wasn't there before), check.
-Probably some swirls from the shitty touch-style scrubbing car wash, check.
-No tire rotation, check.

[19birel]

Sounds like your dealership is either no bueno or (hopefully) this was just a one off experience for you.

As a rule I always reject the courtesy wash if I go to the dealership. I used to be a lot attendant and the unfortunate truth is even if they are really careful with your car the buckets and mits they use have been used on 20 other dirty cars that day so swirls and/or marring is unavoidable to some extent. If they use a touch car wash then your paint is really getting killed.

[ps2cho]

Sounds like your dealership is either no bueno or (hopefully) this was just a one off experience for you.

As a rule I always reject the courtesy wash if I go to the dealership. I used to be a lot attendant and the unfortunate truth is even if they are really careful with your car the buckets and mits they use have been used on 20 other dirty cars that day so swirls and/or marring is unavoidable to some extent. If they use a touch car wash then your paint is really getting killed.

Yep, its the hanging spaghetti style after watching the dash cam...They usually ask if I want it washed and they didn't so after declining his 10k alignment upsell, I forgot to mention no wash (and I washed the car the night before anyway so it was 100% clean and didnt even need one anyway)

I doubt its a one off. One-off would be just the coolant low, all of these combined tells me the service staff just DGAF.

[Allthea]

I'm having concerns after my recent 35k service which they did plugs and also brake fluid flush under the Audi care. When I cold start the car and put it into reverse, it stumbles while sitting with my foot on the brake. It goes away after driving but I can only think it's related. They also put 5 miles on the car which seemed excessive for the work done. Makes me want to install a dash cam.

[Allthea]

Thanks for putting together all of the links to the brake parts. I just followed your same setup. I might also be adding SS braided lines.

I'd like to powder coat the fronts but I'm not sure I have the time... my pads warning came on for my fronts, and I have no idea if I have to disassemble, etc., to have them done.

[ps2cho]

Thanks for putting together all of the links to the brake parts. I just followed your same setup. I might also be adding SS braided lines.

I'd like to powder coat the fronts but I'm not sure I have the time... my pads warning came on for my fronts, and I have no idea if I have to disassemble, etc., to have them done.

Powder coating requires complete disassembly of the caliper. I’ve grown fond of the charcoal Porsche color - it’s very low key and doesn’t draw attention other than someone with a keen eye for cars

[Allthea]

Yeah. I'd also have to pull the rears... I'm not just doing front powder coat. Maybe in the future.

My front brakes are super shot so I think I'm just going to get it installed ASAP...

[ps2cho]

Yeah. I'd also have to pull the rears... I'm not just doing front powder coat. Maybe in the future.

My front brakes are super shot so I think I'm just going to get it installed ASAP...

If you went with the same rotors and pads as me I can tell you it’s phenomenal feel. It’s so smooth because it doesn’t have that bite the stock pads/single piston caliper causes, and because of this you can manipulate the pedal as much as you want to brake.

I’ve been thrilled and wouldn’t change a thing. Well maybe the ECS brake lines, but it seemed a waste with only 20k on the car and I’m not tracking the car either.

[Allthea]

I followed your exact setup. Went to your links haha. Great deals! I don't need the weight reduction of 2pc rotors so I saved a bunch. Thanks for the reminder on brake lines... I need to buy those still.

Did you change the pads or any of the setup in the rear?

[ps2cho]

I followed your exact setup. Went to your links haha. Great deals! I don't need the weight reduction of 2pc rotors so I saved a bunch. Thanks for the reminder on brake lines... I need to buy those still.

Did you change the pads or any of the setup in the rear?

Not yet. Debating doing S4 calipers in the rear so I can run the larger vented rotors though. Brand new calipers are pretty expensive, more than the Porsche ones! I'll probably buy some used ones on ebay, rebuild them with new seals and have them powdercoated gray as well.

[Allthea]

Something has been up with suburban auto parts. They haven't shipped my order and it's been 2.5 weeks. Something about they've had one caliper in hand the whole time and waiting on the other from Porsche. Anyway, supposedly showing up to them on Monday.

If you have the opportunity, and no pressure to do so, could you measure from the rotor face to the outward most part of the caliper (toward the spokes)? Trying to figure out fitment with my wheels. I got a template from ECS but I've seen people saying they think it's over sized.

[ps2cho]

Well here is some great news...the never ending saga with this abysmal dealership continues.

I find out today that my Audi is NOT registered as a certified pre-owned car. I have a copy of the CPO checklist, the service receipt that shows specifically "Audi Certified Pre Owned Inspection Complete". I assume the dealership being a shitshow I've experienced just didn't bother sending the paperwork in or paying the CPO fee to Audi. I've contacted them with the opportunity to fix the issue. If they refuse I will absolutely head towards legal remedies because then its fraud and misrepresentation. Anyone on the street would believe this is a CPO car with the services performed and the emails with the salesman who states the car is CPO.

Hope they dont make this hard, but I'm pretty confident this should be clear cut.

[Allthea]

How do you find that out?

[ps2cho]

How do you find that out?

Asked my service adviser at my local dealership to tell me when my CPO warranty was up and he said didn't show I had one. I then confirmed with Audi USA it did not have it. So pretty furious when I heard this.

[ps2cho]

Couple updates over the past few months

1) FINALLY, almost a YEAR later, have the car now under the Certified Pre Owned program. Received the welcome packet from Audi in the mail a few weeks ago. The dealership I bought it from tried to ask me to provide "proof" that the car was "sold at CPO", scumbags. I sent photos of the car with the CPO plate cover on it, the CPO checklist from the tech, and emails with the salesguy. After some time they just sent a short email back and said they registered the car and that was it. Thank god this is over now.

2) Driving yesterday lost the fog light cover. No idea how it fell out, but I found on ebay a Genuine Audi cover from Lithuania for $48.99 versus ECSTuning at $99.99.

3) About to do the 30k oil change (6-month interval). This will mean I can get the dealer to complete the 30k service next year with the AudiCare on the car. I know the LM 5-40 oil is superior to what the dealer uses (that does not meet the higher MB spec that LM meets).

[k.sigota]

ps2cho - how has the camera held up in AZ summer heat? Still liking it?

Which dealership gave you issues?

[ps2cho]

^ Camera is doing fantastic - The car is garaged, and at work its under covered parking, so it gets minimal exposure to the summer heat. The few times where its had to be in direct sunlight I put a napkin over the top of it.

----

Car has 29,800 miles now so about ready for the 3k mid-year oil change between the dealers AudiCare change, going to send this one off to have Blackstone complete an oil analysis. Will repost next week after a long hot drive how I plan to quickly siphon oil out without getting contamination.

[ps2cho]

Got the Blackstone Labs oil analysis back - looks fantastic. Mind at rest!



I sampled the oil by siphoning out a small amount via the dipstick. Since I'm really not doing a whole lot of miles right now, I will probably only put another 1-2k on her until the next audicare oil change and since its wearing well I think I'll let them change the oil again and I wont do another change myself. If I did one myself when the next service is due it would only have a couple thousand on it, so seems a bit of a waste.

[19birel]

I've been kicking around the idea of doing a Blackstone analysis for a while now, I might have to jump on that since I'm due for an oil change (I run a 5k interval) in just over 1k miles.

At just over 70k miles my 2013 doesn't consume any oil between changes *knock on wood* so hopefully I can expect similar results haha

[ps2cho]

Long overdue update...but did get some goodies in the mail today :)

S4 rotor wheels. 19x8.5 ET41 wrapped in brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/35/19. $1800 shipped to me! Part # 8K0601025AR.
Should clear my Porsche calipers without a problem...

Can tell the tires are brand new as the white mounting lubricant is still all over them, couldn't believe I found a set with unused tires, but seems the guy said it was a 2nd set he had in the garage, then he sold the car. They were previously wrapped black so the paint (other than curbrash areas) ss perfect

They need a little DIY work to get them back to perfect, that is the plan over the next few weeks if I can get all the stuff I need...









I plan to wetsand the lips where the curbrash is...400 / 800 / 1600 / 2000 / 3000 grit, then see if I can compound out most of the scuff damage on the painted face. Hoping some good heavy compound will get out 90% of that and I won't need a respray.

Need to get myself some more sanding pads, and a smaller air sander to make sure I don't touch the paint.

[19birel]

Nice score on the rotors, those will look sharp! Have you done a test fit yet?

As for repairing the curb rash you will need to re-clearcoat the sections that you repair as they have a satin finish even on those contrasted silver parts. Otherwise you will have some overly shiny spots. Might be tricky to blend the clear coat though as you can polish a satin clear