Originally Posted by irish100p
So after seeing the dyno data on the SRM intakes, and having plenty of experience with SRM's products (many of my 911 parts came from SRM), I snatched up their intakes for my S6 and finally got around to installing them this weekend. Below is the installation, which should be able to be completed in a couple of hours. You need a 5mm allen wrench, and a t30(I'm not 100% on this one), a flat head screwdriver, a whole lot of patience, and a cool engine.
Remove the engine cover
Now remove the hose clamps and take these tubes out
Now press on these tabs and disconnect the ram air inlet from the factory airbox
Lift the airbox out (it's not bolted in, it's just pressed into rubber isolators.
Next loosen these hose clamps and remove these two hoses
Now loosen the hose clamps from the recirc tubes from BOV and from the crank vent on the drivers side turbo
The passenger one is an oeteker clamp so you'll need to cut it off and replace with a hose clamp or an oeteker later
Now unscrew the 6 T30?? screws holding the throttle bodies in place. (this is the only way to be able to get to all the allen bolts holding in the inlets. Before you do, disconnect all the plugs from the bypass valves
Next remove the 4 5mm allen bolts holding the turbo inlets in place
It should look about like this now
Here is the SRM inlet compared to the factory one. You don't have to be an engineer to see the restriction in the factory inlet.
Install the passenger SRM inlet and snug it up.
Now install the driver's side one and snug up the allen bolts, also slide the lower crank vent tube to the inlet and snug up the hose clamp
Should look about like this now.
Now put the throttle bodies back in place. This particular allen screw is a PITA and will scrape a tiny bit on the inlet tube (the scrape gets covered up with the hoses removed earlier)
Now either use another oeteker clamp, or use a hose clamp on the lower BOV return tube. This one is a PITA and I used a hose clamp to make it easier when i upgrade the turbo internals. Also make sure you reconnect the drivers side tube as well.
Now after you curse a lot, and drink your preferred beverage, install the tubing from compressor elbow to the I/C Brick. These are a pain and it helps to have a hook tool with a blunt tip.
Once you tighten up the clamps you're ready to install the filters and reconnect all your electrical connections.
Now admire your handiwork and pause to appreciate how good it looks without a cover
Put the cover on and reward yourself with a drive
Hopefully the step by step comes in handy for future uses. Most common question is, did it change the sound? well yes, you can definitely hear the intake sound with the windows open, with them closed I barely hear any difference. Seat of the pants dyno says a lot more oomph is now available when I hit the go pedal. many thanks to my buddy BLKMGK for helping me install everything, and to SRM for such a great product.
James
Remove the engine cover
Now remove the hose clamps and take these tubes out
Now press on these tabs and disconnect the ram air inlet from the factory airbox
Lift the airbox out (it's not bolted in, it's just pressed into rubber isolators.
Next loosen these hose clamps and remove these two hoses
Now loosen the hose clamps from the recirc tubes from BOV and from the crank vent on the drivers side turbo
The passenger one is an oeteker clamp so you'll need to cut it off and replace with a hose clamp or an oeteker later
Now unscrew the 6 T30?? screws holding the throttle bodies in place. (this is the only way to be able to get to all the allen bolts holding in the inlets. Before you do, disconnect all the plugs from the bypass valves
Next remove the 4 5mm allen bolts holding the turbo inlets in place
It should look about like this now
Here is the SRM inlet compared to the factory one. You don't have to be an engineer to see the restriction in the factory inlet.
Install the passenger SRM inlet and snug it up.
Now install the driver's side one and snug up the allen bolts, also slide the lower crank vent tube to the inlet and snug up the hose clamp
Should look about like this now.
Now put the throttle bodies back in place. This particular allen screw is a PITA and will scrape a tiny bit on the inlet tube (the scrape gets covered up with the hoses removed earlier)
Now either use another oeteker clamp, or use a hose clamp on the lower BOV return tube. This one is a PITA and I used a hose clamp to make it easier when i upgrade the turbo internals. Also make sure you reconnect the drivers side tube as well.
Now after you curse a lot, and drink your preferred beverage, install the tubing from compressor elbow to the I/C Brick. These are a pain and it helps to have a hook tool with a blunt tip.
Once you tighten up the clamps you're ready to install the filters and reconnect all your electrical connections.
Now admire your handiwork and pause to appreciate how good it looks without a cover
Put the cover on and reward yourself with a drive
Hopefully the step by step comes in handy for future uses. Most common question is, did it change the sound? well yes, you can definitely hear the intake sound with the windows open, with them closed I barely hear any difference. Seat of the pants dyno says a lot more oomph is now available when I hit the go pedal. many thanks to my buddy BLKMGK for helping me install everything, and to SRM for such a great product.
James
Hi,
Mine were fitted a few days ago.
1 Question, does the air feeder box need to be left installed or is that to be removed too ??..as yours in the pics is still fitted whereas mine was removed...east fix just need to confirm
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks