SRM Intake install step by step

[irish100p]

So after seeing the dyno data on the SRM intakes, and having plenty of experience with SRM's products (many of my 911 parts came from SRM), I snatched up their intakes for my S6 and finally got around to installing them this weekend. Below is the installation, which should be able to be completed in a couple of hours. You need a 5mm allen wrench, and a t30(I'm not 100% on this one), a flat head screwdriver, a whole lot of patience, and a cool engine.

Remove the engine cover


Now remove the hose clamps and take these tubes out


Now press on these tabs and disconnect the ram air inlet from the factory airbox


Lift the airbox out (it's not bolted in, it's just pressed into rubber isolators.


Next loosen these hose clamps and remove these two hoses


Now loosen the hose clamps from the recirc tubes from BOV and from the crank vent on the drivers side turbo


The passenger one is an oeteker clamp so you'll need to cut it off and replace with a hose clamp or an oeteker later


Now unscrew the 6 T30?? screws holding the throttle bodies in place. (this is the only way to be able to get to all the allen bolts holding in the inlets. Before you do, disconnect all the plugs from the bypass valves

Next remove the 4 5mm allen bolts holding the turbo inlets in place



It should look about like this now


Here is the SRM inlet compared to the factory one. You don't have to be an engineer to see the restriction in the factory inlet.


Install the passenger SRM inlet and snug it up.


Now install the driver's side one and snug up the allen bolts, also slide the lower crank vent tube to the inlet and snug up the hose clamp


Should look about like this now.


Now put the throttle bodies back in place. This particular allen screw is a PITA and will scrape a tiny bit on the inlet tube (the scrape gets covered up with the hoses removed earlier)


Now either use another oeteker clamp, or use a hose clamp on the lower BOV return tube. This one is a PITA and I used a hose clamp to make it easier when i upgrade the turbo internals. Also make sure you reconnect the drivers side tube as well.


Now after you curse a lot, and drink your preferred beverage, install the tubing from compressor elbow to the I/C Brick. These are a pain and it helps to have a hook tool with a blunt tip.


Once you tighten up the clamps you're ready to install the filters and reconnect all your electrical connections.


Now admire your handiwork and pause to appreciate how good it looks without a cover


Put the cover on and reward yourself with a drive


Hopefully the step by step comes in handy for future uses. Most common question is, did it change the sound? well yes, you can definitely hear the intake sound with the windows open, with them closed I barely hear any difference. Seat of the pants dyno says a lot more oomph is now available when I hit the go pedal. many thanks to my buddy BLKMGK for helping me install everything, and to SRM for such a great product.

James

[Avned]

Awesome! Thanks for the detailed writeup and feedback.

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[GlacierS5]

Thanks for the detailed write-up! Did the kit comes with the oeteker clamp needed for the passenger side or do I need to supply that? Any additional hardware needed that's not included in the kit?

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[Street Nasty]

Thanks for the detailed write-up! Did the kit comes with the oeteker clamp needed for the passenger side or do I need to supply that? Any additional hardware needed that's not included in the kit?

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It doesn’t come with any clamps. They do however come with bolts to mount them to the turbos and o ring seals that mount in between.


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[GlacierS5]

It doesn’t come with any clamps. They do however come with bolts to mount them to the turbos and o ring seals that mount in between.


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Thanks man

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[GameBreaker]

Thank you for this, I will definitely be using this in the future.

[boston s4]

Wow excellent - thanks


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[MadAboutCars]

Thanks for the detailed steps. Looks like a good mod. I wonder what sort of power gain there is?

[Avned]

Thanks for the detailed steps. Looks like a good mod. I wonder what sort of power gain there is?

Quite a bit. Eurocode posted dyno results with their stage 2 S6. Pretty impressive.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...udi-S6-S7-4-0T

[MadAboutCars]

Quite a bit. Eurocode posted dyno results with their stage 2 S6. Pretty impressive.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...udi-S6-S7-4-0T

Very impressive. Thanks.

[Rez90]

Awesome. Thanks for the write up .

[Joe'sS6]

From the close up pictures, there seems to be two consecutive sudden diameter reductions from the intake tube to the internal turbo flange, that is not good for flow, inside diameter changes should be progressive.

If they made a machinned piece that smooths these reductions, or make it an integral part of the intake tube flange, it would flow much better.

[jsilas]

Anyone taken this to a dyno to demonstrate real-world before/after results from this intake? I’m interested, but in the link above, there is a suggestion that perhaps there were different tune files which yielded the alleged power gains (which admittedly appear huge for just an intake). I’d love to see someone’s real-world results using this intake.

[jinetics]

Anyone taken this to a dyno to demonstrate real-world before/after results from this intake? I’m interested, but in the link above, there is a suggestion that perhaps there were different tune files which yielded the alleged power gains (which admittedly appear huge for just an intake). I’d love to see someone’s real-world results using this intake.

The only thing I felt in terms of stock tune and with a simple intake swap was a snappier acceleration and ofcourse the sound. Most custom tunes can maximize the gains per part and from what I know, the SRM intakes just increases that barrier the stock inlets can support providing more room for tuning. Correct me if I am wrong but the stock tune has it's limits as well as the stock inlets. SRM just opens up those limits.

I do want to see if anyone has a dyno reading like you said to see if my butt dyno wasn't just placebo.

[jinetics]

Great install BTW. I was going to do this for Sean but I forgot to take photos during. I will be installing his shorter version which will mate to the stock box location with the Eventuri box and do a little write up / review as well.

[irish100p]

Thanks for the compliments guys!! I have not dyno'd my s6 and I can say that the car pulls a lot harder than it did before and the cruising mpg is improved as well. I will try to get a dyno of the car with the intakes, for reference before I do downpipes and then again before turbos, and likely I'll see if I can't do dyno's before all of my next mods. I just didn't have the patience to dyno it on the stock setup, but if I end up with some free time, I'll reverse this install and put the stock shit on and dyno it and then put these back on and re-dyno it. I won't even unstrap the car between runs to keep it all on the up and up. Having seen how small the factory tubes are and how many pinches are in them and how they neck down for the turbos, I wouldn't be surprised to see significant differences even though they're "just intakes."

James

[Swirv]

Thanks for the compliments guys!! I have not dyno'd my s6 and I can say that the car pulls a lot harder than it did before and the cruising mpg is improved as well. I will try to get a dyno of the car with the intakes, for reference before I do downpipes and then again before turbos, and likely I'll see if I can't do dyno's before all of my next mods. I just didn't have the patience to dyno it on the stock setup, but if I end up with some free time, I'll reverse this install and put the stock shit on and dyno it and then put these back on and re-dyno it. I won't even unstrap the car between runs to keep it all on the up and up. Having seen how small the factory tubes are and how many pinches are in them and how they neck down for the turbos, I wouldn't be surprised to see significant differences even though they're "just intakes."

James

James are you running a tune? I’d love to meet up at some point to see how it looks/sounds. I live in Central MD.

I recently purchased and installed the RS7!stock air box and noticed a small increase in throttle response along with top end pull. Nothing crazy but the butt dyno says it’s slightly pulling harder towards redline.


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[jsilas]

Subscribing for later, thanks for the detailed thread.

[RS7LeoPR78]

How is the sound and response from the intake?

[bja72774]

Nice write-up....I guess I didnt realize that these went all the way to the turbos. Very different from the others.

[BillyBawb]

Any dyno figures for us yet James?

Even if you just dyno with the intakes on - the 4.0T’s are pretty consistent regarding stock figures, so even comparing it to another stock S6/S7 run on the same dyno should give an indication of any gains from the intake...

[pez81]

What Billy Bob said I would like to see independent Dyno runs before spunking out on another proven intake. I hope it does have gains I'd probably buy it.

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[Hofahome]

Interested in dynos but bet it will make a difference, especially for the S guys with smaller stock inlet pipes.
I have been playing around with my intake setup recently. I have the 2.5in RS inlet pipes btw. I cut out the bottom of the stock intake box and ran an aftermarket filter this past week. I removed the part that the filter attaches to and put in 2 x 3in inlet pipes with filters, although 2.5in pipes would have been a better choice in retrospect. It took some more cutting of the stock airbox to fit and am still working on it. I’m trying to keep as much of a stock look and sound as possible. The throttle response and power band is so much better when you remove the plastic part that the stock filter attaches to.

IMG_6040.jpg


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[hmuller]

How does your new design compare to your previous LME design (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=lme+intake)? I'm running that design with the 3in SS pipes, Injen filters, and a 1/16in aluminum heat shield on my APR Stage 2 S6 right now. At first I noticed a lot of whooshing sounds under the hood and some improved throttle response. However, over the summer (after summer vacation), I thought my car was pulling weaker than before. So just recently I logged some numbers and noticed high IATs (Up to 50.3 °C Intake air temperature in intake manifold bank 1 and 90.0 °C Intake air temperature before throttle valve: raw value) and timing pull up to -5.3 degrees (Timing angle retardation cylinder 4). Perhaps I should add that the timing pull was at just 55% throttle since I logged on my commute home and did not have a chance to go WOT. Since I'm a newbie to logging I'm not sure I logged the right values. Now that the outside temperatures are lower, the car seems to pull stronger again (butt-dyno). So I'm wondering if the high IATs and timing pull were a normal summer thing or if I'm pulling hot air from the engine bay. When I did my logging, I was running BP Ultimate 93 octane but have since switched to Shell V-Power Nitro+ Premium. Could the gas make a difference or is it just the lower outside temperatures? I guess I have to do some more logging. Any thoughts?

[Sean@EuroCode]

How does your new design compare to your previous LME design (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=lme+intake)? I'm running that design with the 3in SS pipes, Injen filters, and a 1/16in aluminum heat shield on my APR Stage 2 S6 right now. At first I noticed a lot of whooshing sounds under the hood and some improved throttle response. However, over the summer (after summer vacation), I thought my car was pulling weaker than before. So just recently I logged some numbers and noticed high IATs (Up to 50.3 °C Intake air temperature in intake manifold bank 1 and 90.0 °C Intake air temperature before throttle valve: raw value) and timing pull up to -5.3 degrees (Timing angle retardation cylinder 4). Perhaps I should add that the timing pull was at just 55% throttle since I logged on my commute home and did not have a chance to go WOT. Since I'm a newbie to logging I'm not sure I logged the right values. Now that the outside temperatures are lower, the car seems to pull stronger again (butt-dyno). So I'm wondering if the high IATs and timing pull were a normal summer thing or if I'm pulling hot air from the engine bay. When I did my logging, I was running BP Ultimate 93 octane but have since switched to Shell V-Power Nitro+ Premium. Could the gas make a difference or is it just the lower outside temperatures? I guess I have to do some more logging. Any thoughts?

the terrible iat's are nothing to do with pulling engine bay air.

[Hofahome]

How does your new design compare to your previous LME design (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=lme+intake)? I'm running that design with the 3in SS pipes, Injen filters, and a 1/16in aluminum heat shield on my APR Stage 2 S6 right now. At first I noticed a lot of whooshing sounds under the hood and some improved throttle response. However, over the summer (after summer vacation), I thought my car was pulling weaker than before. So just recently I logged some numbers and noticed high IATs (Up to 50.3 °C Intake air temperature in intake manifold bank 1 and 90.0 °C Intake air temperature before throttle valve: raw value) and timing pull up to -5.3 degrees (Timing angle retardation cylinder 4). Perhaps I should add that the timing pull was at just 55% throttle since I logged on my commute home and did not have a chance to go WOT. Since I'm a newbie to logging I'm not sure I logged the right values. Now that the outside temperatures are lower, the car seems to pull stronger again (butt-dyno). So I'm wondering if the high IATs and timing pull were a normal summer thing or if I'm pulling hot air from the engine bay. When I did my logging, I was running BP Ultimate 93 octane but have since switched to Shell V-Power Nitro+ Premium. Could the gas make a difference or is it just the lower outside temperatures? I guess I have to do some more logging. Any thoughts?

Your High IATs and pulling timing is most likely from you pushing the turbos to their max (probably out of their efficiency zone) and thus creating a ton of heat; inadequate stock charge cooling system to keep IATs in check; and exacerbation by high ambient heat which would affect both pre turbo charge and cooling at the air to water heat exchanger.
You probably need to look into options for upgraded cooling (ie. Killer Chiller, water meth, or better components of the cooling system). I’m about to install w/m kit because it will hopefully allow both benefits of IAT control and increased octane. Downside is it is one more thing to fill up and monitor.
Jury is still out on my current intake setup but so far the noise is much better controlled. Throttle response is same as the open air style. I will post up more info when I get it to where I like it.


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[hmuller]

Your High IATs and pulling timing is most likely from you pushing the turbos to their max (probably out of their efficiency zone) and thus creating a ton of heat; inadequate stock charge cooling system to keep IATs in check; and exacerbation by high ambient heat which would affect both pre turbo charge and cooling at the air to water heat exchanger.
You probably need to look into options for upgraded cooling (ie. Killer Chiller, water meth, or better components of the cooling system). IÂ’m about to install w/m kit because it will hopefully allow both benefits of IAT control and increased octane. Downside is it is one more thing to fill up and monitor.
Jury is still out on my current intake setup but so far the noise is much better controlled. Throttle response is same as the open air style. I will post up more info when I get it to where I like it.


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Thanks for your insights. I drive grandma style most of the time since the car is my daily driver and rush hour traffic around here doesn't allow much WOT. So I don't push my turbos to the max very often. I certainly did not the day I did the logging. However, I totally agree with the inadequate stock charge cooling system and an APR CPS (or perhaps the MercRacing heat exchanger you have) will likely be one of the next mods to my car. I was also thinking about the SRM pipes that connect directly to the stock intake (and don't pull hot air from the engine bay) but I haven't seen much info on them yet.

[BillyBawb]

Bump

Any news?

[BillyBawb]

Bueller... Bueller... Bueller...

[uplandsway]

So after seeing the dyno data on the SRM intakes, and having plenty of experience with SRM's products (many of my 911 parts came from SRM), I snatched up their intakes for my S6 and finally got around to installing them this weekend. Below is the installation, which should be able to be completed in a couple of hours. You need a 5mm allen wrench, and a t30(I'm not 100% on this one), a flat head screwdriver, a whole lot of patience, and a cool engine.

Remove the engine cover


Now remove the hose clamps and take these tubes out


Now press on these tabs and disconnect the ram air inlet from the factory airbox


Lift the airbox out (it's not bolted in, it's just pressed into rubber isolators.


Next loosen these hose clamps and remove these two hoses


Now loosen the hose clamps from the recirc tubes from BOV and from the crank vent on the drivers side turbo


The passenger one is an oeteker clamp so you'll need to cut it off and replace with a hose clamp or an oeteker later


Now unscrew the 6 T30?? screws holding the throttle bodies in place. (this is the only way to be able to get to all the allen bolts holding in the inlets. Before you do, disconnect all the plugs from the bypass valves

Next remove the 4 5mm allen bolts holding the turbo inlets in place



It should look about like this now


Here is the SRM inlet compared to the factory one. You don't have to be an engineer to see the restriction in the factory inlet.


Install the passenger SRM inlet and snug it up.


Now install the driver's side one and snug up the allen bolts, also slide the lower crank vent tube to the inlet and snug up the hose clamp


Should look about like this now.


Now put the throttle bodies back in place. This particular allen screw is a PITA and will scrape a tiny bit on the inlet tube (the scrape gets covered up with the hoses removed earlier)


Now either use another oeteker clamp, or use a hose clamp on the lower BOV return tube. This one is a PITA and I used a hose clamp to make it easier when i upgrade the turbo internals. Also make sure you reconnect the drivers side tube as well.


Now after you curse a lot, and drink your preferred beverage, install the tubing from compressor elbow to the I/C Brick. These are a pain and it helps to have a hook tool with a blunt tip.


Once you tighten up the clamps you're ready to install the filters and reconnect all your electrical connections.


Now admire your handiwork and pause to appreciate how good it looks without a cover


Put the cover on and reward yourself with a drive


Hopefully the step by step comes in handy for future uses. Most common question is, did it change the sound? well yes, you can definitely hear the intake sound with the windows open, with them closed I barely hear any difference. Seat of the pants dyno says a lot more oomph is now available when I hit the go pedal. many thanks to my buddy BLKMGK for helping me install everything, and to SRM for such a great product.

James

Hi,

Mine were fitted a few days ago.

1 Question, does the air feeder box need to be left installed or is that to be removed too ??..as yours in the pics is still fitted whereas mine was removed...east fix just need to confirm

[GlacierS5]

Hi,

Mine were fitted a few days ago.

1 Question, does the air feeder box need to be left installed or is that to be removed too ??..as yours in the pics is still fitted whereas mine was removed...east fix just need to confirm

I left mine in to help channel the air from the front.

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[uplandsway]

I left mine in to help channel the air from the front.

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Hi,

Thanks for your reply and after discussing with Sean of SRM we will refit the Air Feeder early this week

Cheers


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[slobdogg]

Which intake is this, exactly? This one? https://www.ecodetuning.com/srm-4-0-...ategory_id=627

[highPSI-S4]

Which intake is this, exactly? This one? https://www.ecodetuning.com/srm-4-0-...ategory_id=627

Yup

[doogie]

Really like the potential of this intake system. I was over at Achtuning yesterday taking a look at an RS7 that is effectively using the SRM as turbo inlet replacements (in other words - cut the pipes and mate to accordions + Eventuri airbox).

The install procedure as documented calls for plenty of cursing and the guys at Achtuning agreed - pointing out specifically that they had to further modify the driver side inlet so that it doesn't run right into the passenger side inlet. To be clear, that's this portion of the intake:



It's very possible there's an additional trick they didn't know about to get it to line up correctly, or maybe the fitment was revised at some point to help, or perhaps it's specific to just the "short" version (trying to get it to line up with the factory accordion placement/etc. Anybody have any further install notes? I'd love to get the "long" version of this product thrown onto my S6 but definitely need to know it's gonna fit.

[Sean@EuroCode]

Really like the potential of this intake system. I was over at Achtuning yesterday taking a look at an RS7 that is effectively using the SRM as turbo inlet replacements (in other words - cut the pipes and mate to accordions + Eventuri airbox).

The install procedure as documented calls for plenty of cursing and the guys at Achtuning agreed - pointing out specifically that they had to further modify the driver side inlet so that it doesn't run right into the passenger side inlet. To be clear, that's this portion of the intake:



It's very possible there's an additional trick they didn't know about to get it to line up correctly, or maybe the fitment was revised at some point to help, or perhaps it's specific to just the "short" version (trying to get it to line up with the factory accordion placement/etc. Anybody have any further install notes? I'd love to get the "long" version of this product thrown onto my S6 but definitely need to know it's gonna fit.

simple adjustment of the compressor cover clicking solves any interference - with zero real estate they actually touch when installed correctly. 1st time for some is rough, but we have never had a return due to fitment.

[The Infiltrator]

simple adjustment of the compressor cover clicking solves any interference - with zero real estate they actually touch when installed correctly. 1st time for some is rough, but we have never had a return due to fitment.

Thread jack...
Would you guys sell the black coated pipes on their own? I just got an AWE intake and would like to grab some of these larger pipes to cut down and connect to the new intake system. The stock pipes are pretty small coming off of the turbos, so.

[IowaRS7]

Thread jack...
Would you guys sell the black coated pipes on their own? I just got an AWE intake and would like to grab some of these larger pipes to cut down and connect to the new intake system. The stock pipes are pretty small coming off of the turbos, so.

Just buy the short version that replaces the inlet tubes. That is what I have for my Eventuri intake.

[The Infiltrator]

Just buy the short version that replaces the inlet tubes. That is what I have for my Eventuri intake.

Link?

[IowaRS7]

Link?

You may have to email SRM, or when ordering the standard one ask for the short model. Last I knew it was the same price.