SRM Intake install step by step

[BillyBawb]

Yup, my set ordered in December had all three these niggles.

Couldn't refit the bottom left bolt to the throttle body at all without having to shorten it (I've actually left it off)
Pipes are touching
And engine cover fouls on the front pipe

All relatively minor in my mind.

The performance increase at 5000ft+ altitude on APR Stg 2 mapping is downright incredible - the stock turbo's have a really hard time keeping up with higher boost requests at altitude, and the SRM intakes have allowed them to breathe A LOT more easily.

[Sean@EuroCode]

Yup, my set ordered in December had all three these niggles.

Couldn't refit the bottom left bolt to the throttle body at all without having to shorten it (I've actually left it off)
Pipes are touching
And engine cover fouls on the front pipe

All relatively minor in my mind.

The performance increase at 5000ft+ altitude on APR Stg 2 mapping is downright incredible - the stock turbo's have a really hard time keeping up with higher boost requests at altitude, and the SRM intakes have allowed them to breathe A LOT more easily.

Thanks BillyBawb - the space constraints makes it very hard to avoid these issues, however they are pretty minor and part of modifying the car for better performance.

[OneBadSS]

Thanks BillyBawb - the space constraints makes it very hard to avoid these issues, however they are pretty minor and part of modifying the car for better performance.

I don’t know if I’m the only one feeling this way, but I have issues accepting this response and fit as “acceptable” after a few posts earlier justifying the price with comments related to the production quality and jig time. 🤔

[daytona rs7]

I don’t know if I’m the only one feeling this way, but I have issues accepting this response and fit as “acceptable” after a few posts earlier justifying the price with comments related to the production quality and jig time. 🤔

Agree. I think I'm the poster your referring to. I've accepted it as I was mid-install when the issues were noticed. But future buyers shouldn't have to deal with bad production after the manufacturer was made aware of the issues.

Fyi, I sent en email to eurocode and srm about my concerns, so they are aware of this, rather than just be another sandbagging complaint on a forum.

Sean's reply almost makes it sound like modifying parts unrelated to the intake is normal...but its not. I've installed turbo kits before and not had to modify parts unrelated to the install. This is a couple aluminum tubes, nowhere near as involved.

Besides the intake tubes touching, the other issues shouldn't exist. Since some people haven't had these issues, SRM clearly has the ability to weld these up correctly. And should be doing so for every intake, especially when they cost 1k. If it's not perfect; cut it apart, reuse the machined inlet and reweld. Sucks if they have to do it twice, but when charging a premium price for an intake, they need to deliver a premium product.

[OneBadSS]

Agree. I think I'm the poster your referring to. I've accepted it as I was mid-install when the issues were noticed. But future buyers shouldn't have to deal with bad production after the manufacturer was made aware of the issues.

Fyi, I sent en email to eurocode and srm about my concerns, so they are aware of this, rather than just be another sandbagging complaint on a forum.

Sean's reply almost makes it sound like modifying parts unrelated to the intake is normal...but its not. I've installed turbo kits before and not had to modify parts unrelated to the install. This is a couple aluminum tubes, nowhere near as involved.

Besides the intake tubes touching, the other issues shouldn't exist. Since some people haven't had these issues, SRM clearly has the ability to weld these up correctly. And should be doing so for every intake, especially when they cost 1k. If it's not perfect; cut it apart, reuse the machined inlet and reweld. Sucks if they have to do it twice, but when charging a premium price for an intake, they need to deliver a premium product.

Well, your post got my mind going and it was really both of Sean’s recent replies that pushed me to post about it. The screw and pipes touching I can see, but there’s no way modifying the engine cover should be necessary. Understand that a small change at the flange turns larger the further you get in length, but then tighten the tolerances upfront or maybe even tack the pipes together on the jig to fix it upfront during production

[SubaruSTI8]

Pics arent loading from photobucket, is there any updated DIY install?

[cesc]

Why do people use Photobucket?! It's one of the worst image hosting services, as this thread attests to.

[Blkdoutv]

Any way to reload these pictures? I’m about to do this install on Christmas.


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[s4majid]

Any way to reload these pictures? I’m about to do this install on Christmas.

The first few steps here should help you out. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...=oil+seperator

[Blkdoutv]

Thanks!


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[hmuller]

Any way to reload these pictures? I’m about to do this install on Christmas.

Could you take some pictures and post here? I ordered my short SRM intake on Black Friday and hope to install it in spring after it arrives. Anyone knows what the current lead times are at SRM?

[JGood]

4DD34EF5-5554-45B8-BDFA-D7702744D0E4.jpg

Can someone give me a hint on how to remove this clip without breaking it?

[kebabman]

4DD34EF5-5554-45B8-BDFA-D7702744D0E4.jpg

Can someone give me a hint on how to remove this clip without breaking it?

There’s a little red release tab you need to pop out with a small flat blade screw driver or similar pokey thing, then it unplugs like the other ones, push down on tab and and pull. I would just leave it until you get the throttle body off, there’s plenty of slack in the wiring to allow you so lift it up and turn it over without disconnecting that wire first and then it’s super simple to unplug.

I didn’t get any good pics of it attached to the throttle body but you can see the plug with the red tab popped out in this pic to give you an idea.



Oh a tip that someone else mentioned in this thread that is easy to miss but well worth taking note of, when you go to put the throttle body back on the bottom left screw is impossible to get in when the SRM intake is on and the throttle body is in place; you have two options, 1; cut the screw to 1/2 length, or 2; (which I did) put the screw into the throttle body screw hole before you put it back in place, there’s just enough clearance to get it in place but be careful of catching the the red charge cooler gasket with it, using a long torx bit instead of a socket driver torx there’s just enough clearance to screw it in like this.

[JGood]

Thanks for the tips, I’m gonna give it a shot today and see if I can get these stupid tubes off. It looks like I’m gonna have to use a screwdriver to pry it off the turbo side, and pull once I have the throttle body off. It seems they are pretty stuck on after all these years and heat cycles.

Not to knock the OP, but “remove these tubes” makes it sound like they just come right off after you loosen the clamps lol. But then again, I’m not really much of a mechanic.

[kebabman]

Thanks for the tips, I’m gonna give it a shot today and see if I can get these stupid tubes off. It looks like I’m gonna have to use a screwdriver to pry it off the turbo side, and pull once I have the throttle body off. It seems they are pretty stuck on after all these years and heat cycles.

Not to knock the OP, but “remove these tubes” makes it sound like they just come right off after you loosen the clamps lol. But then again, I’m not really much of a mechanic.

Yeah they’re a bitch. Unbolt the throttle bodies and lift them up and away from the charge cooler, it’s a bit of a yanking exercise but not too bad, then use a large flat blade screwdriver (or hose prying tools if you have them) whilst pulling the throttle body towards the front of the car and wiggling it left and right. That’ll get them off with only minor cursing, at least it did for me. 😅

There’s two small connectors on the underside of the throttle, unplug those before you pull on it too much, you can get all the plugs off when it’s lifted up away from the charge cooler before yanking on it to remove the hoses.

[JGood]

Okay I just finished and I have a few comments.

First of all, fuck those tubes. I learned pretty quickly that you do not have to be gentle with them, not in the slightest. I used a screwdriver and dug down from the inside and wiggles my way around until I could pry them off - while they were still connected to the throttle body, entirely off the car while sitting in a comfy chair.

The passenger side SRM intake prevented the hose clamp of the turbo side from sliding into place. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to get it past the intake mounting point it was a pain.

I’m not sure if the tubes I got were a little off or what but the driver side was a pain to get both bolts started. I got the bottom first and then just barely the top while someone wiggled intake and even then ether were both pretty difficult to tighten.

To get the tubes back on I started with the turbo side, then I got the throttle body in place and used screwdrivers to pry the living shit out of the tubes to get them on. Once again, fuck those tubes.

Now that everything is together, the intakes are slightly offset from one another, but you have plenty of play in the filters to make them line up.

My back hurts, but I’m glad it’s finally done. Now to order DS1....

[kebabman]

Okay I just finished and I have a few comments.

First of all, fuck those tubes. I learned pretty quickly that you do not have to be gentle with them, not in the slightest. I used a screwdriver and dug down from the inside and wiggles my way around until I could pry them off - while they were still connected to the throttle body, entirely off the car while sitting in a comfy chair.

The passenger side SRM intake prevented the hose clamp of the turbo side from sliding into place. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to get it past the intake mounting point it was a pain.

I’m not sure if the tubes I got were a little off or what but the driver side was a pain to get both bolts started. I got the bottom first and then just barely the top while someone wiggled intake and even then ether were both pretty difficult to tighten.

To get the tubes back on I started with the turbo side, then I got the throttle body in place and used screwdrivers to pry the living shit out of the tubes to get them on. Once again, fuck those tubes.

Now that everything is together, the intakes are slightly offset from one another, but you have plenty of play in the filters to make them line up.

My back hurts, but I’m glad it’s finally done. Now to order DS1....

I experienced all those same things with my set, so I don’t think yours are off (unless both sets are). I didn’t have a friend to help though. that hose clamp hitting the passenger side intake was a right PITA, I’d forgotten about that.

My back also hurt like fuck by the end lol.

[ilikecooltech]

I experienced all those same things with my set, so I don’t think yours are off (unless both sets are). I didn’t have a friend to help though. that hose clamp hitting the passenger side intake was a right PITA, I’d forgotten about that.

My back also hurt like fuck by the end lol.

...same. Yeah fuck those tubes.

Now that they are on it makes it all worth it.


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[Hofahome]

“First of all, fuck those tubes.”

Hahahaha! I’ve had similar experiences with car stuff over the years. Way too much shit that seems like it should be easy but isnt


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[Twkdcd595]

Installing my intake setup finally after it sat here for weeks on end (and then some). Pretty excited to get them on and flash to ds1 stage 2 file for them.

The couplers are miserable to deal with as most noted but the real issue is the screw in the bottom corner of the throttle body. There is no way it is going in on mine and its not just a matter of it scrapping the pipe a little. I tried to preinstall the screw partially into the flange and slide it over but that was not happening either.

I am thinking I am actually going to have to remove the driver side intake and give that section of intake tube a little love tap. Really not something I want to do given the cost of these intakes so I reached out to SRM to be sure I am not missing something or maybe they had a little production inconsistency. Looking here it seems to be a common theme so I am guessing it will become a matter of diy ingenuity.



At least the turbos looked decent and driver side was surprisingly cleaner than expected.

[Twkdcd595]

Got it worked out.. I am going to dread pulling that back apart at some point.

[Dasquade]

Semi installed my short pipes, semi meaning removed the stock pipes (decided to remove the throttlebody as it would work easier and i could inspect stuff better). Test fitted the pipes, seams to be fitting good and align decent with the RS6 accordions. I did had to bent the attachement under the drivers pipe so it had more clearance otherwise i won't be able to slide on the accordion. But definatly enough room versus the engine cover.
didn't installed them finally and checked the throttlebody bolt (in the process of considering turbo upgrades etc and don't need the car for 5 days etc so i have time to finish the install).

[Dasquade]

Decided my turbo's are for the moment still good enough so installed the pipes today. In short, suprisingly the install went smoother then i tought.
My pipes aligne good, slightly pressing on the lower hose coming from the PVC but only slightly. Goes over my manifold who are wrapped with insulated heatshield. Just had to bend a holder underneat the drivers pipe so i could slide over the accordion tube. Clapping my thicker forge pressure tubes on the cold side bearly worked but got the clap on (passengers side). Applied some thermal coppergrease on the pressure tubes witch helped BIG time sliding on the throttlebody, actually went very smooth knowing they are much thicker and stiffer then stock. First putted in that passengers side screw untill it scrapped past the inlet pipes, then the rest of the bolts. Still need to get myself a long handheld T30 screwdriver to tighten that problem screw (can't pass it with the wrench) but deside that they are in including the RS6 airbox parts (kept my modified S6 main box, just replaced the outlet part and filter).
20200309_174845.jpg

[Twkdcd595]

I have a set of klein brand t handle torx and they come in handy for tight spots. That is what I had to use to get that tight spot screw in along with a little luck.

[Dasquade]

I have a set of klein brand t handle torx and they come in handy for tight spots. That is what I had to use to get that tight spot screw in along with a little luck.

I had several torx screwdrivers that work for the tight space..just sadely no T30 🥴.

[mintytoo]

To James (OP) and everybody that contributed here: Thanks for all the tips and tricks. From all the hints, and bother, I thought this was a going to a swear fest. Truly took me about 2 hours, taking short breaks to look at the instructions and drinks. And yes, that last t30 for the throttle body that sits beneath the driver's tube was a b!tch. I did what some recommended, by shortening it maybe 8mm.
Also common sense, but oil up the O-ring prior to placing it into the groove on the inlet.
I also removed all 6 T30 bolts attaching the black tubing on top of the throttle body and also that black rubber hose that sits front and center of the throttle body

[tarheelblue07]

Just installed the intakes this weekend on my 2016 S6. The step by step instructions are excellent and helped me tremendously as i'm an absolute newbie to this stuff. A few tips from my install that I feel will make it easier for those considering installing the long intakes:

1. Get a pry bar or some other blunt curved tool to help loosen the hoses, especially the hoses between the turbo and the throttle body. They really are a pain to get off (Looking back, you really only need to loosen and remove the hoses from the turbos as you will need to fully remove the throttle body which they are attached to). If you remove the hoses completely, you definitely want to put them back on the throttle body before reinstalling as it will make it easier to get the hoses back on the turbo side as well.

2. I used 8" compound cutting pliers to snap the "pinch" clamps (oetiker) on the smaller hoses connected to the intake and replaced them with hose clamps. This will make it much easier to deal with getting back in there if/when I upgrade turbos.

3. You don't have to unplug any of the electrical connections to the throttle body. If you remove the black tubing/housing from on top of the throttle body, the wires have enough slack so you can move them out of the way on the driver and passenger side. Same thing for the throttle body itself.

4. You will definitely need a long handle T30 torx wrench and will probably want to grab a pair of long pliers or a long magnetic retriever tool to remove the pieces of the oetiker clamps that break off and fall down in the engine bay area after you cut them off. Also, if your clumsy like me, you will need this to retrieve your sockets when you drop them!

[mintytoo]

Just installed the intakes this weekend on my 2016 S6. The step by step instructions are excellent and helped me tremendously as i'm an absolute newbie to this stuff. A few tips from my install that I feel will make it easier for those considering installing the long intakes:

1. Get a pry bar or some other blunt curved tool to help loosen the hoses, especially the hoses between the turbo and the throttle body. They really are a pain to get off (Looking back, you really only need to loosen and remove the hoses from the turbos as you will need to fully remove the throttle body which they are attached to). If you remove the hoses completely, you definitely want to put them back on the throttle body before reinstalling as it will make it easier to get the hoses back on the turbo side as well.

2. I used 8" compound cutting pliers to snap the "pinch" clamps (oetiker) on the smaller hoses connected to the intake and replaced them with hose clamps. This will make it much easier to deal with getting back in there if/when I upgrade turbos.

3. You don't have to unplug any of the electrical connections to the throttle body. If you remove the black tubing/housing from on top of the throttle body, the wires have enough slack so you can move them out of the way on the driver and passenger side. Same thing for the throttle body itself.

4. You will definitely need a long handle T30 torx wrench and will probably want to grab a pair of long pliers or a long magnetic retriever tool to remove the pieces of the oetiker clamps that break off and fall down in the engine bay area after you cut them off. Also, if your clumsy like me, you will need this to retrieve your sockets when you drop them!

I found it was pretty easy to slip a sharp flat head into the open part of the oetiker clamp and it flips open.

[vastano]

Installed mine a couple nights ago and this thread was priceless. Here are a few tips the I used.

1.) I used a Dremel with the extension and cut-off wheel to cut most of the OEM clamps under the 'pinch' then used a flat head to pry them enough to break them free

2.) Be sure to have a T30 screwdriver or T-handle. Another tool Id suggest is the 5mm allen socket, 1/4" swivel, and 1/4" extensions. I had no issues removing or installing ANY screws, even the PITA ones mentioned in the OP.

3.) Instead of fighting the throttle body tubes, I cut them off and installed the JHM silicone tubes. These slid on the throttle bodies easily then on to the turbos with no effort.

All in all install took me ~1h 15m.

[daytona rs7]

use these pliers to remove or install new oetiker clamps.
cut across the ear for removal.
pinch the ear closed to install.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[TexasDetox]

Following so I don't have to keep looking this up. Lol


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[ElusionPDX]

I got the shorties and ran them into the roc euros noticed that the fit wasn’t perfect oem and took some serious effort to get the roc euros back on.


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[ClaudeG]

Got this done yesterday! Great write up and I share the same sentiment as many, EFF THOSE TUBES! Haha...

[MolonLabe300]

I know this may not be popular but I cut that PITA throttle body bolt a little shorter to make it easier to get started. I measured and it still had plenty of threads to make a good bite into the CAC housing.

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[Riker]

Handy guide, I managed to lose three bits in the process of installing these bad boys lol.

[tdietro]

First thanks for the write up! Just curious if anyone knows the size of OEM oetiker clamps? Or alternatively, what size worm gear clamps does everyone use when replacing them?

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[mintytoo]

First thanks for the write up! Just curious if anyone knows the size of OEM oetiker clamps? Or alternatively, what size worm gear clamps does everyone use when replacing them?

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I bought a big box of different size oetiker clamps and decided to just use the gear clamps, easier. Sorry, no idea what size but I had a large box of at least 1.5-2.5 inches

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[pryced35]

First thanks for the write up! Just curious if anyone knows the size of OEM oetiker clamps? Or alternatively, what size worm gear clamps does everyone use when replacing them?

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Inch and a quarter was the size I used

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[sheldon0]

I wanted to leave my thanks to everybody who contributed to this install thread. I just completed my SRM long intake install on my 2016 S6 and it took me just a little over 1h. I don't know if they improved the design or if all the tips in here made it that "easy" but I didn't run into any problems. The top pipes slid off somewhat easy after removing the throttle-body first, no need to disconnect any connectors as mentioned by others either. The best advice is certainly to worry about the bottom passenger side screw of the throttle-body, it will get you if you don't pay attention to it while installing it. The screw gently rubs against the intake pipe if left too far out and inserting it ahead of time makes it a bit more difficult to screw in (I did have the t30 screwdriver handy). I was able to screw it in without shortening it but I agree it might have been easier to cut a small portion off to have it sticking out less before it's screwed in.

BTW: Took 5 months from the date I ordered until it arrived at my doorstep ;)

[ry0t05]

....

BTW: Took 5 months from the date I ordered until it arrived at my doorstep ;)

Jeesh, sounds like I should order mine now since I'm planning stage 2 or 3 for the Spring