2018 TT RS track/street build thread

[Ross_T_Boss]

I'm leaning to rse102's in 19x9.0 ET40, still not decided, but can't get anything for a few months anyway. I should bet those 9.5" ET42 looks good, thats about ET36 in 9" speak, but Neuspeed limits me to a 40. If I went for a custom I'd keep it to 9.0 but use ET38.

@NardoRS where did you get the Audi Sport cooling ducts, I am looking for an option for a bit more cooling up front and need to get pads. The OEMs aren't quite cutting it on a hard drive.

It'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on ride height, mine are sat about 5mm higher that your now they've settled, hopefully that's nailed it! I do need an alignment, it's not been done on a proper (Hunter) set-up, but I've been putting it off till I get the 034 rear trailing arms and subframe shims on which of course hasn't happened...

There's too many things to do - I might embark on the rear LSD project, but waiting for some feedback from one fitted to a Golf R first. Concerns are whether it fights with the torque vectoring and whether it affects higher speed cornering negatively. it's also going to be about £3k to get one done as a spare swappable unit which could do a hell of a lot of other stuff! But it would be pretty unique and might be a one-off chance.

[nardoRS]

I'm leaning to rse102's in 19x9.0 ET40, still not decided, but can't get anything for a few months anyway. I should bet those 9.5" ET42 looks good, thats about ET36 in 9" speak, but Neuspeed limits me to a 40. If I went for a custom I'd keep it to 9.0 but use ET38.

@NardoRS where did you get the Audi Sport cooling ducts, I am looking for an option for a bit more cooling up front and need to get pads. The OEMs aren't quite cutting it on a hard drive.

It'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on ride height, mine are sat about 5mm higher that your now they've settled, hopefully that's nailed it! I do need an alignment, it's not been done on a proper (Hunter) set-up, but I've been putting it off till I get the 034 rear trailing arms and subframe shims on which of course hasn't happened...

There's too many things to do - I might embark on the rear LSD project, but waiting for some feedback from one fitted to a Golf R first. Concerns are whether it fights with the torque vectoring and whether it affects higher speed cornering negatively. it's also going to be about £3k to get one done as a spare swappable unit which could do a hell of a lot of other stuff! But it would be pretty unique and might be a one-off chance.

The cooling ducts are actually RS3 versions which have different lower control arms but fit perfect with a bit of trimming, I got mine from AKS tuning for about £25.
In my opinion the focus for a good track day TT should be brakes, suspension and tyres.
I’ve not heard about the rear LSD?

[BeTTo RS]

The cooling ducts are actually RS3 versions which have different lower control arms but fit perfect with a bit of trimming, I got mine from AKS tuning for about £25.
In my opinion the focus for a good track day TT should be brakes, suspension and tyres.
I’ve not heard about the rear LSD?

That’s great! A lot better than paying $900.00 for the TT RS’ Audi Performance Parts brake ducts.

[TwistRate]

The latest and greatest front and rear wavetrack mods will be attractive once tested and proven. Right now we don't even know how the TC or torque distribution module will react. I've also heard the LSDs might actually hurt handling any place where power doesn't overcome the inside wheel aka high speed track duty. I'm not ready to deal with that kind of drama just yet. Heck with 5k miles on my car I'm not ready to drop the motor and trans just to get a FLSD!

[nardoRS]

Here’s a pic showing the part number. Bit of trimming and they fit well; I’m yet to try them at the track and measure the rotor temperature but they can’t hurt. There are “naca “ type ducts under the front already and I removed the small rubber splash guards to hopefully get more air to them.

[nardoRS]

7FFEC064-8A24-48D4-9C08-0C911EEF5CFD.jpg8A7E55CA-5C74-40DD-BACB-5445F63F117E.jpgE25EF61B-BE05-4BD0-B59E-A74F4EF31640.jpg
Just took delivery of MPSC2’s in 255/35 19 size, comparing to the oem 245 Bridgestone Potenza S01 tyres the cups have a much squarer shoulder and even though not much wider overall there looks like quite a bit more useable tread and obviously a more track suited compound. I’ve heard good reports of these on damp and mildly wet tarmac too. I’ve only run the original cups on a 996 Carrera 2 and never found them as bad as some people say on a damp track.
I was suprised how easily 4 tyres fit in the back of the TT now the rear seats are out!
Looking forward to getting these mounted and Hunter Roadforce balanced tomorrow then off to Bedford Autodrome on the 18th March to test the winter upgrades..can’t wait!

[TwistRate]

Does anyone know if TTRS suspension is the same as RS3 suspension? For example, could I buy coilovers for the RS3 and install them in a TTRS? I know the rates might be slightly different but I'm not concerned with that.

[big residual]

I suspect the answer is yes from everything I've seen but there are small differences -- I'd check with the vendor. Most MQB bolt ons have worked for me so far, but there are differences. For example, SuperPro MQB LCAs didn't fit on an RS3 I had previously, too much caster. On the other hand, KW Clubsports that were on my Mk7 R fit on the TTRS, just changing up rear rates to match front. The fact that coilovers worked for me is probably a positive sign for you.

[nardoRS]

Just completed a trackday at Bedford Autodrome,UK to test new AP calipers and Pilot Sport Cup 2 tyres together with more camber. Big difference on all counts and now able to consistently corner at 1.2 to 1.3g with very predictable breakaway. The camber and slight toe out(approx -2 degrees 20’ camber)has really helped turn in understeer. Mid corner to exit phase is very slight understeer which is what I prefer and it’s now easy to rotate the car on the brakes into a corner.
Braking is much improved and no fade with the AP Racing caliper. It’s now fairly easy to trigger the ABS though under hard braking which is kicking in earlier than I’d like (maybe just picking up on a slight under rotation) and this system doesn’t pulse but the feeling is a release of pedal pressure and reduced braking. I found that once crossed coming out of the brakes and back on was best. Hopefully there will be/are options for s more aggressive abs map (I disconnected it from my last track car,S2 Exige S with much more predictable results).
The engine (stock w/APR intercooler) ran strong and smooth all day; oil temp max was 115 degrees C and water at 90.
Hard to get an exact LapTime difference due to much slower traffic all sessions but easily 6 seconds on a 4 mile track from last setup.

[big residual]

Just completed a trackday at Bedford Autodrome,UK to test new AP calipers and Pilot Sport Cup 2 tyres together with more camber. Big difference on all counts and now able to consistently corner at 1.2 to 1.3g with very predictable breakaway. The camber and slight toe out(approx -2 degrees 20’ camber)has really helped turn in understeer. Mid corner to exit phase is very slight understeer which is what I prefer and it’s now easy to rotate the car on the brakes into a corner.
Braking is much improved and no fade with the AP Racing caliper. It’s now fairly easy to trigger the ABS though under hard braking which is kicking in earlier than I’d like (maybe just picking up on a slight under rotation) and this system doesn’t pulse but the feeling is a release of pedal pressure and reduced braking. I found that once crossed coming out of the brakes and back on was best. Hopefully there will be/are options for s more aggressive abs map (I disconnected it from my last track car,S2 Exige S with much more predictable results).
The engine (stock w/APR intercooler) ran strong and smooth all day; oil temp max was 115 degrees C and water at 90.
Hard to get an exact LapTime difference due to much slower traffic all sessions but easily 6 seconds on a 4 mile track from last setup.

I'm interested in your learnings re: ABS engaging. I'm running a set of Brembo M6s up front w/ Girodiscs and Pagid RS29s. The brakes are firm and don't fade, plenty of initial friction. Every now and again, ABS engages earlier than I would expect, at what seems to be in advance of the point where the wheels were going to actually lose grip or continuity. Like you, I'd like a bit more lag before ABS engages. Going to feel through this on my next way out and see if it's really a map and Pressure-Torque or Pressure-Volume effect from changing brake characteristics, or just my crap driving.

I haven't seen ABS map changes previously on the MQB platform. Interested if you know anyone actually planning or working different ABS tweaks.


https://www.brembo.com/en/company/ne...-brembo-brakes

[nardoRS]

Early ABS engagement was much talked about in Lotus Exige forums for the S2 platform; we called it “ice mode” as it felt like you were braking hard then hit a patch of ice. It had me off track more than a few times and I simply unplugged the abs sensors and zip tied them back. With our cars I don’t think we can get away with this as the wheel speed sensors are tied in to too many functions. Bosch has some motorsport systems that may offer solutions https://www.motorsport-systems.co.uk...brake-control/
There’s definitely a way around it and with decent calipers (AP racing etc.) -1.5g should be obtainable at threshold braking on track tyres.
What tracks do you run and what have you experienced with the sport or off setting with esp?

[nardoRS]

I'm leaning to rse102's in 19x9.0 ET40, still not decided, but can't get anything for a few months anyway. I should bet those 9.5" ET42 looks good, thats about ET36 in 9" speak, but Neuspeed limits me to a 40. If I went for a custom I'd keep it to 9.0 but use ET38.

@NardoRS where did you get the Audi Sport cooling ducts, I am looking for an option for a bit more cooling up front and need to get pads. The OEMs aren't quite cutting it on a hard drive.


It'll be interesting to hear your thoughts on ride height, mine are sat about 5mm higher that your now they've settled, hopefully that's nailed it! I do need an alignment, it's not been done on a proper (Hunter) set-up, but I've been putting it off till I get the 034 rear trailing arms and subframe shims on which of course hasn't happened...

There's too many things to do - I might embark on the rear LSD project, but waiting for some feedback from one fitted to a Golf R first. Concerns are whether it fights with the torque vectoring and whether it affects higher speed cornering negatively. it's also going to be about £3k to get one done as a spare swappable unit which could do a hell of a lot of other stuff! But it would be pretty unique and might be a one-off chance.

Ride height (and associated roll center location) has a big impact on how our cars handle. Too low can and often is detrimental to optimum handling. I’ve always got the most initial gains from any car I’ve owned (996 Carrera, Lotus Exige S and now TTRS) with an alignment. From the factory even sports cars are delivered “dead” ... a trip to a shop with a Hunter or equivalent can transform the handling within available constraints. I’ve always favoured toe out as I prefer a good turn in and can live with mid corner understeer.

[nardoRS]

Fully committed on turn in!

[Dr Bill]

the wheel speed sensors are tied in to too many functions.

Yes they are.

[Ross_T_Boss]

Ride height (and associated roll center location) has a big impact on how our cars handle. Too low can and often is detrimental to optimum handling. I’ve always got the most initial gains from any car I’ve owned (996 Carrera, Lotus Exige S and now TTRS) with an alignment. From the factory even sports cars are delivered “dead” ... a trip to a shop with a Hunter or equivalent can transform the handling within available constraints. I’ve always favoured toe out as I prefer a good turn in and can live with mid corner understeer.

Thanks, always good to hear about your escapades on track. I'll be taking a leaf out of your book with alignment, no plans at this point to change camber as I'll very rarely see track, so I'll be maximising stock on the front. I've only gone and ordered IE intake and Downpipe for my parts collection - picking up when state side in May - I need to pull my finger out and sort the chassis first!

On the Rear LSD - I suspect the most beneficial (and cost-effective) is teh Wavetrac on the front, but I am resisting embracing the FWD behaviours and want a more neutral car. To be fair, on fast road, it's good out of the box. There's a facebook group for it and the plan is to have a few built by 'Iceter' later in the year, pending some feedback from testing on a Golf R.

[nardoRS]

Thanks, always good to hear about your escapades on track. I'll be taking a leaf out of your book with alignment, no plans at this point to change camber as I'll very rarely see track, so I'll be maximising stock on the front. I've only gone and ordered IE intake and Downpipe for my parts collection - picking up when state side in May - I need to pull my finger out and sort the chassis first!

On the Rear LSD - I suspect the most beneficial (and cost-effective) is teh Wavetrac on the front, but I am resisting embracing the FWD behaviours and want a more neutral car. To be fair, on fast road, it's good out of the box. There's a facebook group for it and the plan is to have a few built by 'Iceter' later in the year, pending some feedback from testing on a Golf R.

There are few places on an average track where an LSD will give you much of an advantage with stock power in our cars. In my opinion a mechanical LSD is the only option for serious track duty.
The best way towards more neutral handling is front camber and a suitable alignment. Most pro drivers will favour a cat with slight understeer as its easily managed. My ideal setup is one in which the car can be rotated under trail braking but transitions to very slight understeer under power. This way apex’s are hit and there’s control on the exit phase with progressive throttle. I personally liked s car that can be nailed after the apex without swapping ends!

[HHughes1]

Early ABS engagement was much talked about in Lotus Exige forums for the S2 platform; we called it “ice mode” as it felt like you were braking hard then hit a patch of ice. It had me off track more than a few times and I simply unplugged the abs sensors and zip tied them back. With our cars I don’t think we can get away with this as the wheel speed sensors are tied in to too many functions. Bosch has some motorsport systems that may offer solutions https://www.motorsport-systems.co.uk...brake-control/
There’s definitely a way around it and with decent calipers (AP racing etc.) -1.5g should be obtainable at threshold braking on track tyres.
What tracks do you run and what have you experienced with the sport or off setting with esp?

"Ice Mode" is a common term applicable to many platforms. Most frequently triggered by trail braking when the ABS system can't quite figure out why the brake and throttle are being simultaneously applied. In the FRS there is a factory setting you can activate by doing what is called the pedal dance. Within 30 seconds of starting the car that is already warmed up its press the brake 3 times then hold, lift the E-brake 3 times then 3 more times on the brake pedal. This turns off the traction control nannies and modifies the ABS intervention in a way that eliminates the ice mode. Weird that the factory builds these solutions into the vehicle but doesn't publish the information. Perhaps Audi has something similar? My C63 had a "dyno" mode that none of us really knew what it did but everyone used it at the drag strip.

[nardoRS]

"Ice Mode" is a common term applicable to many platforms. Most frequently triggered by trail braking when the ABS system can't quite figure out why the brake and throttle are being simultaneously applied. In the FRS there is a factory setting you can activate by doing what is called the pedal dance. Within 30 seconds of starting the car that is already warmed up its press the brake 3 times then hold, lift the E-brake 3 times then 3 more times on the brake pedal. This turns off the traction control nannies and modifies the ABS intervention in a way that eliminates the ice mode. Weird that the factory builds these solutions into the vehicle but doesn't publish the information. Perhaps Audi has something similar? My C63 had a "dyno" mode that none of us really knew what it did but everyone used it at the drag strip.

Yep, I’m sure there are parameters that can be changed and sure they will be revealed at some point by someone!
Much prefer to have no abs...the stability control nannies are useful but still too intrusive. I don’t doubt most seasoned track drivers will be faster without it but just to test (in sports+ mode) I threw the car into a chicane at 91mph under trail braking..the back went and after about 20 degrees of rotation was tidied up with stability control. Without intervention I’d of been on the throttle to settle the back and power through the corner.

[nardoRS]

UPDATE:
Had the TTRS out at Cadwell Park Circuit in Lincolnshire; first time at this challenging and narrow track and loved it! Lots of elevation changes and some very fast sweepers together with technical bits. A real test of the setup.
The car ran very well all day and I was happy with the balance. Pilot Sport Cup 2 tyres are wearing nicely and I’m getting used to the slightly higher pressures these work best at; brakes were great (this circuit is not too hard on them).
Video here https://youtu.be/AG1YybBrZZA

[nardoRS]

BFF021AF-9BB3-4E47-9AB2-89FA6C6713DE.jpegF6999F5C-6EAF-4E75-83F0-070DF006509F.jpeg
Few pics courtesy of Javelin Trackdays!

[nardoRS]

My new track wheels arrived today; Neuspeed RSe11r’s in 18x9.5. These “r” versions have machining around the spokes to cut weight out and weigh in at 9.1kg. I have some Nankang AR1’s in 265/35 18 coming in a few days. This setup will save 3kg per corner over the oem 19” wheels I have been running (with MPSC2 tyres in 255/35 19) so a big weight saving and especially since it’s unsprung and rotational mass.
Mounted up the wheel and there’s lots of space for my AP caliper and rotors.
The gloss bronze is a very nice finish.

[HHughes1]

My new track wheels arrived today; Neuspeed RSe11r’s in 18x9.5. These “r” versions have machining around the spokes to cut weight out and weigh in at 9.1kg. I have some Nankang AR1’s in 265/35 18 coming in a few days. This setup will save 3kg per corner over the oem 19” wheels I have been running (with MPSC2 tyres in 255/35 19) so a big weight saving and especially since it’s unsprung and rotational mass.
Mounted up the wheel and there’s lots of space for my AP caliper and rotors.
The gloss bronze is a very nice finish.

Congrats !!!! Those are far and away the best choice for an off the shelf track wheel. I pinned a link for them on the wheel fitment thread a few weeks ago. In the Neuspeed description they specifically state these were redesigned for brake clearance on the TTRS and RS3. Ordering mine in black !

[TwistRate]

I want to see pics mounted up!

[JGreen76]

I've been quietly admiring your build from a far. Very well done!

I'm looking to improve handling on my 19 TT RS; spirited street driving doubt will see a track...

Questions: Will the fixed Camber Plates significantly increase tire wear?

I've ordered a set of fully adjustable MSS sport/street kit. If the camber plates does significantly increase tire wear, would a fair alternative be the firmer strut mount bushings that 034 offers?

Thanks.

[nardoRS]

I've been quietly admiring your build from a far. Very well done!

I'm looking to improve handling on my 19 TT RS; spirited street driving doubt will see a track...

Questions: Will the fixed Camber Plates significantly increase tire wear?

I've ordered a set of fully adjustable MSS sport/street kit. If the camber plates does significantly increase tire wear, would a fair alternative be the firmer strut mount bushings that 034 offers?

Thanks.

Thanks Jgreen76!
The camber plates from 034 motorsport will not affect your tyre wear for spirited street driving and will probably improve it! You’ll be able to dial in around 2.75 degrees max but have some adjustment back if needed at the hub.
The MSS kit is a great addition and very well engineered.
After install I’d recommend getting a more sporty alignment (my alignment is in this thread and great for street). Your car will feel so much more responsive and composed!

[Ross_T_Boss]

Great footage at cadwell park, the closest I came was driving it in a VR simulator recently and was shocked how much elevation change there is, there's some really steep sections.

What have you defaulted to for front toe? Still a smidge of toe-in or have you experimented with toe-out, and if so how have you found it? I've recently had the subframe off for a downpipe change, front shims and 034 dogbone inserts. Not got round to the rear 034 goodies, but got aligned. Almost identical to your rear set-up (as posted near the front of the thread), same camber and caster up front but I'm running 0'5" toe each side (total 0'10"). Something is amiss - the car really wants to wander, and takes some adjustment to keep straight under heavy braking especially. It's a confidence killer. Great turn-in and rotates nicely with the power though.

Either the shop have screwed it up or she just doesn't like any front toe-out! I had asked to zero it so feel justified in taking it back - it's no good for street.

I've also swapped to 19x9 Neuspeed rse102's ET45 with hub/wheel centric 10mm spacers, 255/35/19 PS4S and love the look and grip. Really pleased with it, I just need to get the alignment sorted as it was stable up to the limiter before.

[JGreen76]

Thanks Jgreen76!
The camber plates from 034 motorsport will not affect your tyre wear for spirited street driving and will probably improve it! You’ll be able to dial in around 2.75 degrees max but have some adjustment back if needed at the hub.
The MSS kit is a great addition and very well engineered.
After install I’d recommend getting a more sporty alignment (my alignment is in this thread and great for street). Your car will feel so much more responsive and composed!

Thanks NardoRS!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[nardoRS]

Great footage at cadwell park, the closest I came was driving it in a VR simulator recently and was shocked how much elevation change there is, there's some really steep sections.

What have you defaulted to for front toe? Still a smidge of toe-in or have you experimented with toe-out, and if so how have you found it? I've recently had the subframe off for a downpipe change, front shims and 034 dogbone inserts. Not got round to the rear 034 goodies, but got aligned. Almost identical to your rear set-up (as posted near the front of the thread), same camber and caster up front but I'm running 0'5" toe each side (total 0'10"). Something is amiss - the car really wants to wander, and takes some adjustment to keep straight under heavy braking especially. It's a confidence killer. Great turn-in and rotates nicely with the power though.

Either the shop have screwed it up or she just doesn't like any front toe-out! I had asked to zero it so feel justified in taking it back - it's no good for street.

I've also swapped to 19x9 Neuspeed rse102's ET45 with hub/wheel centric 10mm spacers, 255/35/19 PS4S and love the look and grip. Really pleased with it, I just need to get the alignment sorted as it was stable up to the limiter before.

Yes, Cadwell Park is a great and challenging track! It’s not as easy to learn as it first looks and quite a few of the faster linked sections are really important for lap time. I’m looking forward to getting there for my second visit now!
On the alignment; I’ve always set mine up with a bit of toe out as I like the feel and turn in but I’m not experiencing wandering like you mentioned? I’m making very slight steering corrections under heavy braking (can see on the videos) but nothing big. What are you running for suspension and brakes? Also probably recheck the alignment I’d say.
Have you had the car out to any UK tracks?

[nardoRS]

Nuespeed RSe11r wheels 18x9.5 et 45 with Nankang AR-1 tyres in 265/35 18. A perfect fit of tyre on rim; these AR1’s have a very stiff and square sidewall compared to the Cup2’s.
The wheel/tyre combo fits perfectly on the car for what I’m looking for in a dedicated track setup. Plenty of clearance into the front wheel well at around 2.5degrees negative camber and a finger width of clearance at the back of tyre to strut.
Can’t wait to get on circuit in July at Castle Coombe and test them thoroughly!
Nankang give some good information on recommended tyre pressure for weight of car and a temp operating window.179C299C-3EAF-4045-B12B-7274CD953EEE.jpgBCFE1A6C-B57F-4457-8660-361E1CC4219F.jpg1D8EC7B1-2A25-4EC3-959C-100F7CE89131.jpg181B56C0-5F15-4F7D-AA22-85728B4571BD.jpg

[HHughes1]

Really good video on the Nankang's here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKXaOU6wfWE

Lots of buzz about these lately in the US. Seems that performance is very similar to Trofeo R's but with a $600 savings per set!!!

[Ross_T_Boss]

On the alignment; I’ve always set mine up with a bit of toe out as I like the feel and turn in but I’m not experiencing wandering like you mentioned? I’m making very slight steering corrections under heavy braking (can see on the videos) but nothing big. What are you running for suspension and brakes? Also probably recheck the alignment I’d say.
Have you had the car out to any UK tracks?

I'm on stock brakes and MSS track, lowered to a ride height about the same as yours. I need uprated pads, and probably put a 'midrange' disc on (eg Reyland), decided on keeping the 8-pots as I won't do extensive track work. I got a bit distracted and built a 1/4 mile monster... I intended on bringing a set of Girodiscs back from the US and had the IE intake and downpipe packed instead .

I did go back to the alignment shop, front toe was a little off and wheel off-centre, but rear way off - 17" of toe out on the rear left and nothing on the rear right. They dialled in 5" each side rear and 2" front and it feels so much better, but I haven't found opportunity to mix up the speed and road surfaces to sign it off just yet. It's fine on a few pulls to I still have the 034 rear trailing arms, rear subframe inserts and am tempted my AKmotorsport front wishbones. A bit overkill for a road car but I expect that would take stability up a notch.

I have done a 15-min session at Castle Combe and I was into extreme brake management within 3 laps on stock pads. I am still tempted to get a little more into some track driving. That's an awesome set-up you have there with the Neuspeeds and AR1s, look forward to the feedback. Cup2s are your daily tyre now? I had a good run through rural France to LeMans with a friend in his GT3 shod with Cup2s, changeable weather and the rear was dancing all over the place and despite the off-alignment the TTRS was so much quicker on PS4S. Of course later in the day when it dried up and tyre temps went from 20s to 40+ the confidence balanced switched...

If you're at CC in a few weeks I should be there, not planning on any track time unless they'll do a single session option. But would be good to catch up and see the car in person!

[nardoRS]

I'm on stock brakes and MSS track, lowered to a ride height about the same as yours. I need uprated pads, and probably put a 'midrange' disc on (eg Reyland), decided on keeping the 8-pots as I won't do extensive track work. I got a bit distracted and built a 1/4 mile monster... I intended on bringing a set of Girodiscs back from the US and had the IE intake and downpipe packed instead .

I did go back to the alignment shop, front toe was a little off and wheel off-centre, but rear way off - 17" of toe out on the rear left and nothing on the rear right. They dialled in 5" each side rear and 2" front and it feels so much better, but I haven't found opportunity to mix up the speed and road surfaces to sign it off just yet. It's fine on a few pulls to I still have the 034 rear trailing arms, rear subframe inserts and am tempted my AKmotorsport front wishbones. A bit overkill for a road car but I expect that would take stability up a notch.

I have done a 15-min session at Castle Combe and I was into extreme brake management within 3 laps on stock pads. I am still tempted to get a little more into some track driving. That's an awesome set-up you have there with the Neuspeeds and AR1s, look forward to the feedback. Cup2s are your daily tyre now? I had a good run through rural France to LeMans with a friend in his GT3 shod with Cup2s, changeable weather and the rear was dancing all over the place and despite the off-alignment the TTRS was so much quicker on PS4S. Of course later in the day when it dried up and tyre temps went from 20s to 40+ the confidence balanced switched...

If you're at CC in a few weeks I should be there, not planning on any track time unless they'll do a single session option. But would be good to catch up and see the car in person!

Yep, the stock 8 pots are plenty good for a few stops; just run into heat problems with them when on track as you’ve identified! If you use the rs3 cooling canes and a better rotor (with directional cooling vanes) and track duty pads you might get away with using the stock calipers on most tracks (the dust boots will melt off!).
The cups will get used on slightly damp tracks and getting there and back, after they are used up I’ll put MP4S on the oem wheels.
On the stability side try putting a slightly more aggressive pad on the rear (Ferodo 2500 or similar). Other than that I always cycle through the mode settings to Dynamic even when I’ve last been in Dynamic as it does seem to make a difference (no idea why).
Yeah, be good to see you and catch up at Castle Coombe; it’s a private test day on the 25th but I’m sure the gates will be open for spectators.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I am running the 2500s front and rear for autox and they have limited stopping ability. If you are exceeding 60mph you will likely want the DS1.11 which is what I use for big track days. Those combined with the Essex J-hook rotors and Castrol SRF fluid provide excellent stopping power and heat resistance.

As for the wheels and tires I'm still hunting for a 19x9.5 wheel that is light weight and strong. I may take the plunge and get some BC forged. In the meantime my 19x9 +45 Neuspeed RSE10s are working well. I'm a little nervous about going wider because under compression the wheel is jammed up under the car a decent amount. I would hate have fender to wheel contact.

[nardoRS]

I am running the 2500s front and rear for autox and they have limited stopping ability. If you are exceeding 60mph you will likely want the DS1.11 which is what I use for big track days. Those combined with the Essex J-hook rotors and Castrol SRF fluid provide excellent stopping power and heat resistance.

As for the wheels and tires I'm still hunting for a 19x9.5 wheel that is light weight and strong. I may take the plunge and get some BC forged. In the meantime my 19x9 +45 Neuspeed RSE10s are working well. I'm a little nervous about going wider because under compression the wheel is jammed up under the car a decent amount. I would hate have fender to wheel contact.

I agree Jeff that the 2500’s are not enough for the front of our cars at the track (I’ve never tried them but am going to use the DS 1:11 up front after the Pagid RSL29’s are worn) but on the rear they are a good choice and work well for me.
You will be fine with a 9.5 “ wheel at the right offset and camber. Are you going to get the AP 9600 calipers to go with those Essex rotors? It really is a night and day difference and you’ll save almost half on the pads over the oem 8 pots!

[nardoRS]

The track wheels fit in easily and plenty of room for tools jack etc.
Castle Coombe on the 25th July then Croft on the 20th August.
I’ll be putting in some Ferodo DS1:11 pads on the front after the next track day and switching out to 2500’s for the limited street driving I do.

[Jeff_Jeske]

Are you going to get the AP 9600 calipers to go with those Essex rotors? It really is a night and day difference and you’ll save almost half on the pads over the oem 8 pots!

The plan was to test the stock calipers to determine if they can handle single lap standing start time attack. I don't really care for lapping days anymore so I don't go through pads as quickly as I once did. I know many people mix and match pads but I like to keep the same front and rear. Not knowing how the TC calculates it's distribution of power I just feel better about having same in both places.

I may entertain switching to the AP calipers once I wear through these pads. Once downside of running the factory caliper is that the newer pad compounds are not available in OEM shape where as the AP calipers seem to get them immediately. Honestly I'm trying to slowly mod the car so I know how the things I change are impacting actual performance.

[nardoRS]

The plan was to test the stock calipers to determine if they can handle single lap standing start time attack. I don't really care for lapping days anymore so I don't go through pads as quickly as I once did. I know many people mix and match pads but I like to keep the same front and rear. Not knowing how the TC calculates it's distribution of power I just feel better about having same in both places.

I may entertain switching to the AP calipers once I wear through these pads. Once downside of running the factory caliper is that the newer pad compounds are not available in OEM shape where as the AP calipers seem to get them immediately. Honestly I'm trying to slowly mod the car so I know how the things I change are impacting actual performance.

Jeff, I agree that any upgrade path should be done systematically and individually as much as possible.
The oem calipers would be fine for single lap timed events but, as you said, one downside is the pad choices (weight and cost are the others).
I wouldn’t worry about mixing pads front to rear; just adjusts the brake torque for given pedal pressure (the same effect as going to a bigger rotor). The main consideration is having a pad suited to the duty and our rear brakes are lightly used compared to the fronts so need a pad that works better from lower temps.
Look forward to hearing how your next track event goes!

[nardoRS]

Visited the awesome Castle Combe circuit for the first time; love this track and very well suited to the TTRS!
First time out with the new track wheels and Nankang AR1’s which I’m very impressed with. I ran them 33 and 29psi hot (F-R) and found them stable and predictable even though the day was very hot (34 Celsius) the tyres did not go off during a 10 lap session.
Ran in the low 1:16’s video of one lap here https://youtu.be/PKSIwK3bfPU
I’m still running stock power and right now there’s very little I’m going to change to my setup (I have put Ferodo DS 1:11 pads on the front to try as the Pagid rsl29’s were done). Croft circuit next!

[Jeff_Jeske]

How are you liking the DS1.11s and what are they mated with in the rear?

[nardoRS]

How are you liking the DS1.11s and what are they mated with in the rear?

I’ve only just put the DS 1:11 pads in after my last track day so will know how they fare on the 20th when I’ll be at Croft Circuit.
I’ve had the Ferodo 2500 pads on the rear for the last couple of events.