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  1. #81
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    I envisioned a PCB that would have a nice nest for the nano to drop onto. For procuring the PCB I was thinking maybe we would use the classic etching method using a Permanent Marker holder on one of our printers. Basically using Eagle Cad and some other software to export gcode that only uses X/Y. OR some have also used a laser printer to print off a nice depiction of the board and use some solvent to dissolve and transfer the pcb onto the copper board. Then continue with a normal acid etc/hole drilling session [and not the fun kind, either].
    i could do that as well but no need, the board I posted above is a mega328p on board with a usb port for firmware uploads, you can program it using the arduino interface once the bootloader has been loaded. I can add a header for more I/O pins as well, the one output pin that is there now is powered by a tip122, its pulled high and triggered low in the mcu so you can hook it to the negative of a relay coil that drives something like the afterrun pump. there is a header on the bottom for the temp probe you are using, and a port to attach the canbus shield that can pull all the engine data you need. I priced out the pcb at osh park and it would be $60 for a run of 3 pcb's.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  2. #82
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    i could do that as well but no need, the board I posted above is a mega328p on board with a usb port for firmware uploads, you can program it using the arduino interface once the bootloader has been loaded. I can add a header for more I/O pins as well, the one output pin that is there now is powered by a tip122, its pulled high and triggered low in the mcu so you can hook it to the negative of a relay coil that drives something like the afterrun pump. there is a header on the bottom for the temp probe you are using, and a port to attach the canbus shield that can pull all the engine data you need. I priced out the pcb at osh park and it would be $60 for a run of 3 pcb's.
    Good stuff!

  3. #83
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    i could do that as well but no need, the board I posted above is a mega328p on board with a usb port for firmware uploads, you can program it using the arduino interface once the bootloader has been loaded. I can add a header for more I/O pins as well, the one output pin that is there now is powered by a tip122, its pulled high and triggered low in the mcu so you can hook it to the negative of a relay coil that drives something like the afterrun pump. there is a header on the bottom for the temp probe you are using, and a port to attach the canbus shield that can pull all the engine data you need. I priced out the pcb at osh park and it would be $60 for a run of 3 pcb's.
    I dunno how this will dictate what Rob wants to do. Rob? I am just shadowing him and typing commands into [a pretty shitty] IDE.

  4. #84
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Is that the same chip on the nano? If so, shouldnt really matter, just change some pins before compiling?
    What he is doing sounds pretty sweet. If the 2 are somewhat compatible, options are always good.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  5. #85
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    same chip as the uno, but still easy to swap pins.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  6. #86
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Is that the same chip on the nano? If so, shouldnt really matter, just change some pins before compiling?
    What he is doing sounds pretty sweet. If the 2 are somewhat compatible, options are always good.
    Rob, we should be fine to spearhead our way with what we have planned. I am writing the code modular enough that the physical architecture doesnt really matter. anyone would be able to change the code with relative ease to meet their needs.

    I have a mosfet, 5 fans, and some nano's en route. I ponied up the extra cash for the US located ones, that way I don't have to be at the mercy of some customs agent on a friday evening.

  7. #87
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    Rob, we should be fine to spearhead our way with what we have planned. I am writing the code modular enough that the physical architecture doesnt really matter. anyone would be able to change the code with relative ease to meet their needs.

    I have a mosfet, 5 fans, and some nano's en route. I ponied up the extra cash for the US located ones, that way I don't have to be at the mercy of some customs agent on a friday evening.
    also on of the benefits of the arduino ide is just changing the target board and swap a few pins in the code and it will port right over to another board.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  8. #88
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    also on of the benefits of the arduino ide is just changing the target board and swap a few pins in the code and it will port right over to another board.
    That is a great point actually.

    Just curios, with this new board youíll be using the uno as a board in the IDE?


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  9. #89
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    That is a great point actually.

    Just curios, with this new board youíll be using the uno as a board in the IDE?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Give me a day or two and I'll build the bootloader and set up the hardware files for arduino ide, then you just choose the board from the drop down, it will have it's own custom name.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  10. #90
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Are there advantages to making the board from scratch, as opposed to making a board that a nano plugged into?
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  11. #91
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Are there advantages to making the board from scratch, as opposed to making a board that a nano plugged into?
    Space, custom, and exactly everything you need. Less wiring too itíll look super clean. We can also send a fritzing file in for manufacturing or with eagle cad. I am lazy though, the nano will be fine :D


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  12. #92
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Custom and exactly what we need shouldnt be affected.
    Space maybe a little bit, but it would be losing a chip, and only gaining a set of headers to plug the nano into. And the nano of course
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  13. #93
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Custom and exactly what we need shouldnt be affected.
    Space maybe a little bit, but it would be losing a chip, and only gaining a set of headers to plug the nano into. And the nano of course
    If we were producing a commercial product it would be a no brainer. But Iím ok with the spaghetti mess.


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  14. #94
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    For sure.
    Seems to me that the further projects like this get from "off the shelf", the shorter the life they have.
    Sounds like it will have excellent compatibility though so can do it however we like.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  15. #95
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    forgot to post this for you guys, this is where I get nanos by the handful, https://folgertech.com/products/ardu...ard-mini-usb-1, is a company based out of NH and stock really cheap nanos.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  16. #96
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    forgot to post this for you guys, this is where I get nanos by the handful, https://folgertech.com/products/ardu...ard-mini-usb-1, is a company based out of NH and stock really cheap nanos.
    Thanks!


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  17. #97
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Got a chance to frankenstein something up and see how the mosfet would do running a fan.
    Ambient was 26C, it leveled off at 28.6C after running for ~60sec.
    I would have thought it would have made more heat, but only +3C is way better than I expected.
    Will have to see how it does when we start switching it on and off to control fan speed.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  18. #98
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Quicky update on this.

    This is just an example and basic layout. (much of it is just stuff to mimic what is in the car for testing)



    Switches left to right
    1- Basically the alternator. (how the oem fcm knows if the engine is running or not)
    2- Aft run switch
    3- Manual override switch. (turn the fans on manually if needed)
    4- AC on switch. (how the oem fcm knows if the ac is on or not)

    Lights from left to right (these just represent fans, aft run pump, etc)
    1- Front fan
    2- Rear fan
    3- EFK
    4- Aft run pump
    5- Low switch emulator sig. (tells the oem fcu the low switch is tripped)
    6- High switch emulator sig. (tells the oem fcm the high switch is tripped)

    The thing with "TMP" on it is a temp sensor so we can move the temp around and see wtf happens.

    The power supply is car voltage.

    The oscope is to see wtf is going on.

    We are using a nano, but the uno does pretty much the same thing here.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  19. #99
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Quicky update on this.

    This is just an example and basic layout. (much of it is just stuff to mimic what is in the car for testing)



    Switches left to right
    1- Basically the alternator. (how the oem fcm knows if the engine is running or not)
    2- Aft run switch
    3- Manual override switch. (turn the fans on manually if needed)
    4- AC on switch. (how the oem fcm knows if the ac is on or not)

    Lights from left to right (these just represent fans, aft run pump, etc)
    1- Front fan
    2- Rear fan
    3- EFK
    4- Aft run pump
    5- Low switch emulator sig. (tells the oem fcu the low switch is tripped)
    6- High switch emulator sig. (tells the oem fcm the high switch is tripped)

    The thing with "TMP" on it is a temp sensor so we can move the temp around and see wtf happens.

    The power supply is car voltage.

    The oscope is to see wtf is going on.

    We are using a nano, but the uno does pretty much the same thing here.
    Time to make that baby public and share with everyone so they can use it:)


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  20. #100
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    We getting close
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  21. #101
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    We getting close
    Talking about the tinker. Set it to public and share the link. No one can modify it.


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  22. #102
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    This is engine running, and the temp just above the efk on temp.
    The efk is lit, and running a low duty cycle.




    This is with the temp a bit higher, efk lit, and running a higher duty cycle.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  23. #103
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    This is engine running, and temp above the low temp switch setting.
    Efk is running 100% duty cycle
    The front and rear fans are running 1/2 speed (50% duty cycle)
    The low switch emulator is lit, and would be triggering the oem fcu low speed if you were only using this to run the efk.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  24. #104
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Engine running, temp above high temp switch setting
    Efk 100% duty cycle
    Front and rear fans 100% duty cycle
    High switch emulator lit, and would be triggering high speed on the oem fcu if only using this to run th efk.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  25. #105
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Engine on, ac on
    Front and rear fans at 50% duty cycle
    Low temp switch emulator lit and triggering the oem fcm (the low switch and ac sig are the same on the oem fcm)

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  26. #106
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Engine off, aft run switch tripped.
    Front fan running 50% duty cycle
    Aft run pump on.

    Will run until aft run switch turns off, or the set max time.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  27. #107
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Engine on, override switch on.

    Efk, front, and rear fans running 100% duty cycle.
    High switch emulator on, and telling the oem fcm it wants high if you are using it.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  28. #108
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Engine off, override sw on.

    Efk, Front, and rear fans at 100% duty cycle.
    Aft run pump on.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  29. #109
    Veteran Member Four Rings CELison's Avatar
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    Being that Iím close to Rob, I can be a test car for this. All expenses paid of course.

  30. #110
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    https://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perf...30104/10002/-1 you guys know they already made a ton of these right?
    :P

  31. #111
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    But, but, no fancy lights and switches and shit on that one

    The thing we are working on would be fully configurable fan controller replacement if wanted.
    Or just a configurable efk controller that also allows you to configure the switch points of the oem fcm, and some other stuff.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  32. #112
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4James View Post
    https://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perf...30104/10002/-1 you guys know they already made a ton of these right?
    :P
    none that really fit the bill.

    Most I have seen aren't waterproof, so you need accommodations in the cabin. Along with that is extra wiring passing through the ECU cover, which in many cases is already populated by wiring from widebands, AFRs, meth controllers, etc. Most of them do not support variable speed only the expensive ones do.

    The benefits to an open source solution:
    - Very configurable/ pick and choose functionality
    - Cheap parts are readily available
    - Engine bay mountable with the right enclosure
    - Cheaper than MOST bottom shelf controllers with more functionality than ALL of the expensive units.

  33. #113
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Great result with my variable speed flex a lite controller with my jhm fan .....comes with a install kit which I put under the rain tray....

  34. #114
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyn424 View Post
    Great result with my variable speed flex a lite controller with my jhm fan .....comes with a install kit which I put under the rain tray....
    There are many options out there for sure.


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  35. #115
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Here is my little side project while trying to learn a bit about this stuff myself.
    Nothing like vavs real code, but something to fiddle with to get an idea of wtf it does if interested.

    Temp settings are not real world in there to make it easier to see the affects of changes.
    EFK comes on at 30, Low switch set to 80, and high switch set for 120.
    Everything is configurable at the top if you want to make changes.

    Will prob need to sign up for an autodesk acct, but that is a good thing. They have lots of neat and free tools for goofing around.


    https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kW5...stqNyffRLlFlo=

    Go easy on my programming skilz. Closest thing (not even close) I have done to this stuff previously was on an apple ][e in 9th grade. Around the time the wall came down.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  36. #116
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Go easy on my programming skilz. Closest thing (not even close) I have done to this stuff previously was on an apple ][e in 9th grade. Around the time the wall came down.
    Bro Iím quite impressed at how quick youíre picking it up. Keep it up.



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  37. #117
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    That 1st step was a doozy, but seem to actually be moving fwd now
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  38. #118
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
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    DIY: Thermostatic Fan Controller

    I am happy to report that I have installed the v1.0 variable speed code into my car. I will post it up soon. I am not using it for variable speed since I only wanted on/off functionality, but thatís how flexible the code is.

    The controller utilizes the green Audi coolant temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose. The controller plugs in between the 4 pin connector near the power steering harness junction, which allows full control over the condenser and aux fans. For now I have no reason to run those fans at a lower temperature, but itís cool to know that I can.

    The following are features built into the code:

    - low power usage: the fan controller idles at a mere 6mA, and goes into sleep mode consuming around 1.5mA. (Consumption can vary based on which voltage regulator you choose to run)

    - after-run routine: control over which fans run and for how long during after run. You cannot override the factory after run time/Aux fan/ duration, but you can run hi speed and or run your EFK during after run.

    - A/C override: connect the compressor to the fan controller to run which fans and at which speed. This will give you ice cold ac (but will also test your charging system)

    - panic switch: hook up a button or configure the panic switch to sense the ac compressor. You can trigger based on simple 12v or ground trigger. You can use a simple on/off trigger or based on a pattern: ( on for a second, off for a second. Then turn on for a second then back off to turn off the panic switch). All fans will run on full blast.




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