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  1. #41
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Coolant leak drivers turbo

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbpka06 View Post
    Glove box should come out, fuse box comes with the dash you just disconnect the wiring on the posts like shown in the video. I did have a bolt under the cowl near the wiper motor. Everything on the dash stays assembled pretty much including the steering wheel and passenger airbag. On the engine side you need to disconnect the ECU and free up the harness, and disconnect the heater hoses and AC lines to the firewall.
    Perfect thanks so much. This seems to good to be true https://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Heater-Co...anner=1&_rdt=1

    All metal for 24 shipped with the foam and end cap. Anyone use it? Probably will give it a shot if my brace fix doesnít work.


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    IMG_3447.jpg

  2. #42
    Senior Member Three Rings 1thenaton1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2010
    AZ Member #
    58947
    My Garage
    Q7 TDI
    Location
    SLC

    seems like a pretty stupid part to cheap out on given the labor involved to replace

  3. #43
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Quote Originally Posted by 1thenaton1 View Post
    seems like a pretty stupid part to cheap out on given the labor involved to replace
    Yeah thatís what makes me afraid lol, but itís metal where most makes around that price like febi are plastic on the end tanks like stock. The oem metal one for the Passat is like 200+


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  4. #44
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Any tips on how to get this valley pan cover off. I got all the bolts out, itís wiggling in there, but the coolant aux pump bracket attached to the coolant hardline is preventing it from coming out. I tried to slightly bend the bracket but it seemed pretty stout. I donít wanna try too hard because the VP cover feels like aluminum and the support for the aux pump feels like iron/steel. I tried undoing a bolt by the motor pull bracket on the head for the coolant hardline but nothing really budged...


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  5. #45
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    That hardline isnt going to budge unless you take the xover pipe off the heads.
    And even then, it wont go far. There is another bolt holding it right above the ac comp, and the pipe runs behind the tbelt back plates and waterpump.
    Might have to take the xover off and the bolt by the ac comp to get enough wiggle room.

    How much oil you have down there? You sure its not from something like the fhose, iat, or psteer?
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  6. #46
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Not much but it was there, so I figured it would be one of those things I would do while I was in there. I see some old threads removing the one near the passenger side. I think maybe if I unbolt just the pass side crosstube I can move it enough to get that pass tube out?

    I dunno here what a pain in the butt maybe I can try and bend the pipe aux pump holder bracket thing without touching the valley pan cover or just cut enough to get it out.


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  7. #47
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    The pside one is part of the xover. If you take it off, need orings.
    I thought I had a pic of the part#s, but cant find it.
    Look for the 3 in here that say "Death Valley". There are 5 orings total if you do them all. 4 if you just pull the xover and not the heater core pipe.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/13Ck...ew?usp=sharing


    Check the iat on the bottom of the mani. Those things are always covered in oil and crud.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  8. #48
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Ok will do thanks, yeah my iat plug was super cruddy. Kind of a bummer now I figured I could just slip the gasket in and out easy but thatís not happening without bending or cutting that piece, or taking the xover tubes all apart.


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  9. #49
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Coolant leak drivers turbo

    IMG_3450.jpg

    I got it out with bending the support up. It didnít wanna come up as clean as Iíd have hoped because the mani was propped up halfway with bungie limiting leverage. It could have been the seal or my crankcase hose was a little loose on the valley pan fitting (which was probably it). I had the later style seal in there as well which I thought was strange for my 2000.

    I got the intake manifold off in a matter of twenty minutes but getting it back on was a little more nerve racking. A strong magnet on the 5mm would be really helpful. I did it with a telescoping magnetic and a few cuss words. The new gaskets didnít come on cardboard for whatever reason, but they were cheap and Elring. They were pretty uneven and not flat; it took a bit of finessing to get it right. A few drill bits would have been a good idea to get it right without sliding it around... I just went for it. They are all snugged. I now have to look up the torque procedure.


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    Last edited by RocksForsSale; 08-14-2018 at 10:37 PM.

  10. #50
    Veteran Member Three Rings RocksForsSale's Avatar
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    Oct 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    288266
    Location
    Allentown, Pa

    Well I got it all back together. I just moved the heater core tube all the way towards the core and clamped it on the bleed hole. It drips a little under 10 psi and slowly bleeds off pressure. Iím not sure what pressure the coolant system sees. Iíll judge how fast it leaks over the next few days, but before it was spraying out like a sprinkler. If it takes enough where winter will get expensive Iíll try the copper pipe brace and jb weld method. If these temporary patches donít last Iíll just be pulling the dash per that video. Iíll probably just go with the Febi plastic ones, they havenít really let me down.


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