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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    May 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    330966
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA

    2011 S5 Manual, wonít go into 1st or 2nd

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    Okay, so over the past few months Iíve been struggling with my 2011 S5ís transmission. Heat is a major factor here, but itís getting more and more difficult to put it into gear, especially 1st and 2nd, and if the engine is on...it wonít go into reverse at all regardless of how hard I try to slam it in. If I turn the engine off, it goes into gear just fine with no resistance at all...as the engine heats up or if itís a hot day, this problem is intensified. I also noticed that if Iím on flat road, put the car in gear, keep the clutch pushed in (all the way in, foot to the floor)...the car will creep forward as if I had partially let the clutch petal put...I take the car out of gear and into neutral and the creep forward stops

    My Audiís not stock, I have a stage 3 apr kit, a southbend clutch (original clutch couldnít handle the toque after we put the apr kit on)

    Any ideas whatís happening here? Iíve taken it into the shop, and the guy just wants to replace the entire clutch / flywheel (he doesnít want to do the work to see what the problem is and I donít completely trust him) I really and truly would appreciate any leads on the issue.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland
    Items for Sale

    Your clutch isn't fully disengaging. If you continue to drive it in this condition you will wear out your synchronizers and have to either rebuild or replace your transmission.

    Two possibilities. Simplest problem would be that you have air in the clutch hydraulics and you need to bleed the system. Unfortunately I doubt that is your problem.

    Second possibility is a defect in the clutch or clutch actuating system. I had a similar problem when I ran a Southbend HD SS clutch in my A4. The pressure plate operating pressure was excessive and it bent my clutch fork. Consequently the clutch could no longer fully disengage.

    I would suggest bleeding first and if that doesn't fix it you are going to have to pull the transmission to determine the issue. it could be a bent fork or a broken spring actuator on the pressure plate.

    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    May 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    330966
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA

    Darn, that sounds pretty spot on to the problem you had. Sounds like I'm in for a painful / costly repair operation

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    May 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    330966
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA

    How much $$$ did it cost to have your A4 fixed up from the issue?

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 26 2018
    AZ Member #
    413054
    My Garage
    2008 S5; 2010 Lincoln MKS (3.5 Ecoboost)
    Location
    Maryland/US

    I think Old Guy is spot on...If your car creeps forward like an automatic when you put it in gear and depress the clutch pedal, your clutch is not fully disengaging, and keeps transferring power from the engine to the wheels. I hope bleeding the line helps you...you may find a faulty slave or master cylinder. However; your symptoms (car creeping while in gear) were the same symptoms I had in my 944 years ago. The fix was to replace my clutch. Fortunately my clutch lasted to about 130k miles in that car...but that's another story (why Audi can't get a clutch to last longer than 50k miles in our cars)

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland
    Items for Sale

    Quote Originally Posted by swirth123 View Post
    How much $$$ did it cost to have your A4 fixed up from the issue?
    If I recall I spent around $600 for a new clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, actuating arm, pivot block, pivot pin and retaining spring along with a complete Valeo clutch kit that included a new single mass flywheel. (Plus a sore back from a weekend underneath the car bench pressing a transmission into place).

    Unfortunately I'm sure the parts will be quite a bit more expensive for the S5.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.



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