Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 70 of 70
  1. #41
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex1188 View Post
    "SAC" = self adjusting clutch. You have to compress the pressure plate and rotate the ratcheting piece counter clockwise. There are plenty of DIY out there on how to do this. It may not be 100% of your problem but it could definitely contribute to it and severly effect the life of your clutch if you don't reset it.
    Good to know, Iíll do it before reassembly. Thanks!

  2. #42
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by blitz2190 View Post
    if your installing the slave with the transmission in, you have to compress the slave rod or you'll miss the fork almost everytime and as other have said you'll have a rock hard pedal with the rod fully extended, got to shoe store grab those extra wide laces and use it to keep the rod compressed until the slave is in straight and pull the lace out before its fully seated, pro tip, cut the ends of the laces so its easy to pull out.
    Youíre still able to pull the string out with the slave installed between the tranny and that rubber boot? Since I have two slaves now should I install the good one onto the tranny before reassembly and use the old one to plug the hydraulic line on the car? Then just swap the line from the old slave into the new one installed in the tranny?

  3. #43
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by vavJETTAw36 View Post
    You better clean off all that assembly grease from the input shaft/clutch/fw tines. That'll ruin a clutch disk and flywheel in short time.
    Will do, thank you.

  4. #44
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    At this point you are prob better off pulling the slave and installing it into the trans now so you know its right.
    Then hook it back up and bleed after its back in.

    I leave the slave when pulling the trans, but it does take a feel and a bit of luck to get back in correctly.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  5. #45
    Veteran Member Four Rings durfA4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 01 2006
    AZ Member #
    9494
    My Garage
    2012 A7 Stage 2, 2014 Q5 3.0T SLine, 2001 Laser Red S4
    Location
    Boston

    I just had to replace my slave cylinder yesterday.

    Go buy one of these
    . 507F988F-B62F-4373-A9D1-79597DAA7DAE-1740-0000018894379C8C.jpeg

    Hose on bleeder, release all the pressure. Then vacuum the fluid out until no air bubbles. Super easy. I let it gravity bleed into the hose while I did the master cyl.

    FYI
    If you are going autozone.
    The duralast aluminum slave fit in just fine empty. I did grind the small tab off the end like the forum said to. But had to return the first slave cylinder since the supply line would not seat fully.

    Check the bag for made in Italy or China, the Italian one worked fine the Chinese one didnít fit.

    Once I swapped the slave and master, I was amazed at the solid pedal feel. Definite improvement over the nylon/plastic oem parts after 18 years of pressure and degradation.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    2012 A7 3.0t EPL Stage 2
    2014 Q5 3.0t
    2001 S4 STUKLR tuned

  6. #46
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Well I took the fork off today and cleaned it really good, cleaned the splines on the tranny and the disc, and changed the throw out bearing. I went to compress the pressure plate to reset the sac and pretty sure I ruined it. I tried to improvise using a jack and a large socket and i bent the inner circular part of the pressure plate. Sooo Iím assuming I canít use it like that so I guess my options are have a shop try to bend it back or buy a new pp. I think itís a b7 rs4 but not entirely sure. I just know it was installed by vast and I think they have a history of using the b7 rs pp. itís hard to tell the bend but itís definitely there.

  7. #47
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    Luk b7rs4 repset is like 137 from rockauto.

    Post some pics of your fw, and the measurement from the friction surface to the lip that the pp sits on. Prob 7.5 or 9.5mm.

    Were it mine, Id bend it back and roll the dice. That is just a stop ring to keep you from over travelling the slave/pp and doesnt usually do anything anyway.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  8. #48
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Luk b7rs4 repset is like 137 from rockauto.

    Post some pics of your fw, and the measurement from the friction surface to the lip that the pp sits on. Prob 7.5 or 9.5mm.


    Iíll grab some measurements when I get back home. Do you think itís unusable with a tweak on that piece? And is the luk repset a reliable enough part to use on k04 setup?

  9. #49
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    I wouldnt sweat that ring in the middle, it dont do much.
    The stock repset will hold stg3. Your kevlar disk should be added headroom.

    I see what they did to clear the rivets on the b7 pp, but there is also a step height difference between the 2.
    You are going to want to figure out what that is if you try to use a different pp on that fw.

    Are there washers under those bolts like it says on the fw? These had a nasty habit of fkn up cranks if they werent put together right.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  10. #50
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    I wouldnt sweat that ring in the middle, it dont do much.
    The stock repset will hold stg3. Your kevlar disk should be added headroom.

    I see what they did to clear the rivets on the b7 pp, but there is also a step height difference between the 2.
    You are going to want to figure out what that is if you try to use a different pp on that fw.

    Are there washers under those bolts like it says on the fw? These had a nasty habit of fkn up cranks if they werent put together right.
    If that piece isnít a big deal then Iíll just reuse the pp and call it a day. I donít remember, Iíll have to recheck if the washers are there. Dam really, how so like threads on the crank or balance?

  11. #51
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    With no washers the bolts are too long.

    This is what happens
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...flywheel+bolts
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  12. #52
    Established Member Three Rings Teck09's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 11 2017
    AZ Member #
    399307
    Location
    WA

    ^ If the bolts are too long they thread too deeply into the crank and smash into the main bearing. You can imagine the carnage that causes. You've previously driven on this setup it for a while iirc, so I'd guess you're prob gtg.

  13. #53
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    The way the flange on this top bolt looks recessed does not give me the warm fuzzies.
    Doubt its a prob, but I usually press the pilot in flush.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  14. #54
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    The way the flange on this top bolt looks recessed does not give me the warm fuzzies.
    Doubt its a prob, but I usually press the pilot in flush.

    Good to know. Iíll seat that pilot further and Iíll pull those bolts to make sure the washers are on there. Thanks.

  15. #55
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    Need new bolts if you pull them out.
    There isnt much room to play in there, so if any of them look like they are actually sitting lower than the surface of the fw around them, Id do them all.

    In addition to the washers, what you really want to look for is the ends of the bolts being shiny or chewed up from bottoming out. This can be really bad if you find it.
    This is what you dont want to see. Bad pic, but you can see the shiny ring on the end where it bottomed out in the crank.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  16. #56
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Need new bolts if you pull them out.
    There isnt much room to play in there, so if any of them look like they are actually sitting lower than the surface of the fw around them, Id do them all.

    In addition to the washers, what you really want to look for is the ends of the bolts being shiny or chewed up from bottoming out. This can be really bad if you find it.
    This is what you dont want to see. Bad pic, but you can see the shiny ring on the end where it bottomed out in the crank.

    Well I already pulled them off the old engine and put them on the new one so Iím already a step behind. I suppose Iíll grab new bolts and washers to be safe

  17. #57
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    You dont want to reuse those bolts.
    Ive done it once (as Im sure many others have) and it wasnt a prob, but this is an area where you dont want to fk around if you dont have to.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  18. #58
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Double checked those bolts and the washers were on there. Iíll remove them all and replace with new ones. As for the pp, should be okay to use despite the small bend????

  19. #59
    Veteran Member Four Rings Alex1188's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 10 2013
    AZ Member #
    111092
    Location
    Forest Lake, Minnesota

    Quote Originally Posted by mattg1.8 View Post
    Double checked those bolts and the washers were on there. Iíll remove them all and replace with new ones. As for the pp, should be okay to use despite the small bend????
    Totally your call. Like others have said I'm that's just the bottom out stop. You could bend it back and be fine. But I have had those fingers snap of on me before personally from being stressed and then get caught in between the pp and the clutch causing issues and having to be torn apart again.

  20. #60
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 31 2014
    AZ Member #
    269656
    My Garage
    2004 A4 1.8T Quattro, 2.7T swap Stage 3 APR 6 speed
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by mattg1.8 View Post
    Youíre still able to pull the string out with the slave installed between the tranny and that rubber boot? Since I have two slaves now should I install the good one onto the tranny before reassembly and use the old one to plug the hydraulic line on the car? Then just swap the line from the old slave into the new one installed in the tranny?
    you pull it out before completely seating it, but since you have it all apart now just install it on the transmission then mate the tranny and engine and be done with it. use a piece of rubber line and a bolt to cap the clutch line until your ready to install it.
    Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
    2.7T Swap Wiring Guide (Psst this is a link)
    New Build In progress built 2.7 STK 2004 B6 A4- Thread and pic to come

  21. #61
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Took the pressure plate to an Audi shop today to have them reset the sac due to my lack of a press and they told me itís not a self adjusting clutch. Are those springs just wear indicators or was I told wrong?

  22. #62
    Senior Member Three Rings slowSfaux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    329604
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ

    They lied that is 100% a sac pp. More specifically, it's a b7 pp, since the b5 model has three sac springs whereas the b7 model has only 2.

  23. #63
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by slowSfaux View Post
    They lied that is 100% a sac pp. More specifically, it's a b7 pp, since the b5 model has three sac springs whereas the b7 model has only 2.
    Dammit. I asked him 3 times too and he said nope the adjustable ones have notches in the plate area for adjustment. I guess Iíll try a different shop?
    Also, for installing the slave with the tranny removed should I do it before I bolt the tranny to the engine or after?

  24. #64
    Senior Member Three Rings slowSfaux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    329604
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ

    Before you bolt the engine to the transmission. Just bolt it in now and move the release fork by hand, see if the slave rod compresses smoothly and the tob moves smoothly over the sleeve it rides on.

  25. #65
    Veteran Member Three Rings ElementR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 23 2013
    AZ Member #
    131534
    My Garage
    '07 Volvo S60R EFR 7163 Turbo, '93 Mustang Cobra Twin Turbo 347cid, '01 B5 S4 Tial 605's
    Location
    Grosse Pointe, MI

    Yeah, don't go back to that shop! That is clearly a self adjusting PP you have in the pics. I also agree with assembling the slave to the trans before you install the trans again... so much easier to bleed the line than fight the slave install with the line connected and trans in place... and always wondering if you seated the rod on the fork properly.
    2001 Silver/Black S4, Built engine (RPM rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons, Supertech valvetrain, etc), Tial 605's @25psi on 93 oct, JHM FMIC, JHM full trans rebuilt/upgrade, 3" SS dp + CBE, Vast intake + bipipes + tune, ST Coilovers, Hotchkis Swaybars, RS4 wheels and interior goodies.

  26. #66
    Veteran Member Four Rings vavJETTAw36's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 04 2012
    AZ Member #
    96276
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA

    Clutch pedal will not depress

    Quote Originally Posted by mattg1.8 View Post
    Dammit. I asked him 3 times too and he said nope the adjustable ones have notches in the plate area for adjustment. I guess Iíll try a different shop?
    Also, for installing the slave with the tranny removed should I do it before I bolt the tranny to the engine or after?
    Bolt the tranny up first. Then the slave.

    The best way to do it is to get a ribbon and put it under the plunger. compress the slave on a table or something while someone else ties the ribbon over the back of the slave. Install it and cut or untie the ribbon and pull it out.

    Otherwise youíll be fighting to mate the trans - resistance from the input shaft and from the slave pushing back on the TOB

    But heed the advice of slowfaux and test the clutch before reinstalling the slave.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #67
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Decided to go with a new pp. got it today and drilled the holes bigger to accept the flywheel studs. Should the pressure plate be very tight going on? I got it bolted up and all the forks are almost bottomed out on the stopper. Is this normal? Donít have enough experience with car clothes to know what looks normal in there.

  28. #68
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    DONT PUT THAT IN!!!

    Those fingers should sit slightly higher that the 4 fixed fingers like in your other pic.
    That will def be rock hard pedal and no clutch.

    That setup is not a bolt on deal. VAST did something to make it work. You remember those measurements I asked you about?

    2 things:
    There are rivets on the b7 pp that will hit on a b5 fw. VAST machined the fw to clear the rivets.

    The step height is ~2mm different between the b5 and b7 fw. This is prob why it is over compressing the pp and drawing the fingers down that far.
    This is what you need to figure out. Can just put some washers between the pp and fw to make up the difference. This works fine.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

  29. #69
    Senior Member Three Rings mattg1.8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2009
    AZ Member #
    47851
    Location
    San Diego

    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    DONT PUT THAT IN!!!

    Those fingers should sit slightly higher that the 4 fixed fingers like in your other pic.
    That will def be rock hard pedal and no clutch.

    That setup is not a bolt on deal. VAST did something to make it work. You remember those measurements I asked you about?

    2 things:
    There are rivets on the b7 pp that will hit on a b5 fw. VAST machined the fw to clear the rivets.

    The step height is ~2mm different between the b5 and b7 fw. This is prob why it is over compressing the pp and drawing the fingers down that far.
    This is what you need to figure out. Can just put some washers between the pp and fw to make up the difference. This works fine.
    Ahah thanks for stopping me before I bolted the tranny up. Could it be as easy as rotating the pressure plate so that it fits into the areas that vast previously machined on the flywheel? I placed the pressure plate on without the disc a few times to make sure the holes I drilled fit over the rivets and I got it to sit flush. Maybe I was lucky on those tries? Is there something else on this pressure plate I need to shave down to make it fit? Maybe this is what happened last time and I didnít even notice??
    When you say washers between pp and flywheel you mean on those 6 Allen bolts?

  30. #70
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 16 2010
    AZ Member #
    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    It shouldnt matter how it is on there, the rivets will clear.

    They could have used a disk that was 2mm thinner, but we can rule that out now.

    Seems like the hard way, but must be something with the pp.
    I dont see any washers welded to it like some have done.
    I really doubt they took it apart and modded something inside.
    I imagine machining 2mm off the friction plate would be "fun", but that would be my guess.

    The sac being out could cause that.
    Look closely at the things on the sac near the springs. 1 of them usually has a line laser etched in the reset position so you know if it jumped in shipping.

    The washers to shim it would go between the fw and pp, with the pp bolts going through them.
    You kinda need to be able to bolt it together and cycle it to see wtf the sac does if you do it this way.
    This means you also need to be able to reset it afterward. Where there is a will, there is a way, but a press is prob best here.
    Not the best idea, but you could just go with the perfect world numbers and throw 2mm washers in there and hope for the best though.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesnít move and it should - WD40.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2018 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.