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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 10 2014
    AZ Member #
    273221
    Location
    Ohio

    2000 A8 crank no start, fuel pump/relay/tcm good

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    Good afternoon, folks. Gonna get right to it. Got a shot at a senior-driven, well-maintained 2000 A8 for like $1000. No rust, car looks great. BUT, it won't start. Here's what I know:

    Fuel is getting to the rail. PO removed the line and turned the key, fuel came out.

    PO replaced the fuel pump/relay with the correct parts (mechanic at the shop told me this, car is there waiting for a buyer)

    PO bought new ECU and TCM, had a shop try plugging both in, no dice. ECU was NOT programmed.

    Car had a bad radio module, this is well-documented in the stack of service records the PO has (he's over 70 and saves EVERYTHING)
    Notes on the records say that there was no communication with the vehicle computers until the radio module was disconnected, then all was fine. Radio 7.5 amp fuse was blown at this time.

    Notes and mechanic comments also state that the ECU had burnt pins and a burnt smell. (the old one, not the replacement he bought) Mechanic says there was water in the ecu housings.

    Car is giving no codes or CEL.

    I have not scanned with VAGCOM or OBD, just came from looking at the car and talking to the mechanic.

    Spark has NOT been checked, but given that there is gas at the rail, and presumably compression, I suspect that the injectors and/or plugs are not being told what to do or when to do it.

    PO says car ran great before it decided not to start. He seems legit, and is not in a hurry to sell the car.

    I think the ECU needs to be flashed to match the car, so does the mechanic. He is not well-versed with old Audis. I have a 2001 A4 that has given me virtually zero troubles in 5 years. (I did swap in an ECU that I got from a member here, and it was trouble free, no programming required. Still have the old one, it's perfectly good, just wanted anti-lag and emission delete.)

    YES, I googled all this before posting, but there is just a mass of conflicting info on the nature of this issue. I have to scroll through 8 pages of fuel pump related posts to get to anyone talking about ECU or cam sensors, etc.

    So, my question is, does the replacement ECU need programmed to match the car and can/will a dealership do this? I'm thinking given the history and mentions of a burnt smell on the old one, the ECU is the obvious place to start. PO has one in hand, will come with the car if I buy it.

    Second question, should I even bother with it? It looks to be a great car for the price, if I can get it running without blowing another 2 grand and 3 weeks of changing sensors after work.

    Thanks for any input.
    2001.5 1.8T FWD/K0mpresd tune (anti-lag, emissions delete)/ K&N High-Performance cupholder/ Little pine tree air freshener crammed into dash vent

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings DrnknCamel's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 05 2011
    AZ Member #
    75087
    My Garage
    14 BMW X1
    Location
    Macon, GA

    I think it would be worth it. I personally dont have any experience with this exact issue, but my buddy had a similar experience with the ECU on a A8. I would just start testing one part at a time.

    Also the VAG Com could help give you some more information as to what the problem is.

  3. #3
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 03 2018
    AZ Member #
    416545
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA

    I also think it sound like a good deal. Scanning the car with vcds/similar may help you a ton with deciding (there maybe people in your area with a cable or Id highly recommend getting one)


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings DrnknCamel's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 05 2011
    AZ Member #
    75087
    My Garage
    14 BMW X1
    Location
    Macon, GA

    Even the Ebay cables for $5 are not that bad. They will give you some good info if you dont want to invest the $200 in the Ross-Tech Cable in the beginning. If you pull that, post the results and i think we could help you point to the issue. Could be something simple.

    In my experience, too many "shops" dont have the Management tools to understand exactly whats wrong. So sounds like this Senior Gentleman may have taken it somewhere that cannot pinpoint the exact issue with the diagnostic tools, and they are just throwing parts at it.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 10 2014
    AZ Member #
    273221
    Location
    Ohio

    Thanks for the input fellas. Here's an update: I got the cheapie cable and software from Ebay. We got the car towed home, the PO gave me the donor ecm and tcm. I tested the battery: 6 volts. Cheap junk from walmart, only 640 cca, so tossed that and got the correct oem match battery, MUCH bigger. Put in the new ecm, crank, no start. Put in the old ecm, crank, no start. Hooked up my OBD scanner, failed to connect to either ecm. Looked up that issue, and decided to check K line for voltage. The Ross tech site says you have to have the ignition and the radio on to check this, but I know the radio doesn't work, but after turning the ignition on, I tapped the radio on knob just for sh*ts and giggles. Also for sh*ts and giggles, I tried to start the car again before checking pin 4 and 7. Friggin thing fired right up. Drove it up and down the street. Runs fine. Started it up multiple times. Still fine. I think I'm more pissed than I would be if it still didn't start. So we have a great condition A8 for $1400. Of course I called the PO to tell him, he asked me to let him know if I got it started. Left him a voicemail, I bet he's gonna go nuts, but I'd still like to get the radio working. Module is fried, to my knowledge, and is currently not connected. Anyone know where it's located in the car? They hid stuff everywhere on this thing. I'm going to try putting a good one in.
    2001.5 1.8T FWD/K0mpresd tune (anti-lag, emissions delete)/ K&N High-Performance cupholder/ Little pine tree air freshener crammed into dash vent

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings audinutt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2007
    AZ Member #
    14809
    My Garage
    2001 A8l 2001 A4TQM Avant
    Location
    texas

    The radio on the A8 in the D2 is the module unless you were referring to the Bose amp but that is not accessible via any sort of scan tool I'm betting you just have a bad radio

    Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
    98.5 A4 1.8T

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 10 2014
    AZ Member #
    273221
    Location
    Ohio

    Well, I hope you're right. I have an invoice from an Audi service department that says they could not communicate with OBD so they "disconnected the radio module," which I suppose means they disconnected the radio, they also say it had a blown 7.5 amp fuse (No word on if they replaced it). So, maybe if I replace the fuse, radio, or both, I'll be able to read OBD codes? This is an issue for me because to get permanent plates, I need to get an echeck, and they do that via the OBD port. The car is for my girlfriend, and she doesn't care if the radio doesn't work (I DO, however) but not being able to read engine codes with OBD is a problem, I doubt the echeck stations have VAGCOM capability. Anyhow, I'm waiting on the radio removal tools from Ebay, we'll see what I find when they get here. I started it this morning, and got a CEL on now, so the car must be going through all the internal check-up motions. I think it hasn't been run in something like a year. I really like the car, though. It's very handsome, and absolutely dwarfs my poor little A4.
    2001.5 1.8T FWD/K0mpresd tune (anti-lag, emissions delete)/ K&N High-Performance cupholder/ Little pine tree air freshener crammed into dash vent

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 21 2012
    AZ Member #
    88570
    Location
    Northern California via NYC

    The Radio on the 2000 D2 A8 communicates via the K line and when it shuts down, you loose coms. Pull the radio entirely and disconnect it or replace the fuse at the back of the radio. Assuming the fuse doesn't blow, you should get OBD2 coms going again. 12 years ago, the cowl on my 2000 A8 filled up with water during a prolonged downpour. The drains in this area are notorious for getting clogged with debris. Anyway, it wiped out my ECU, TCU, and water came into the HVAC air inlet in the center of the cowl, got into the ducting, and rained down on the radio. Blew the radio fuse. I hooked up my Ross Tech VAG com cable and...nothing. Finally figured out the dead radio was blocking the coms, pulled the radio, replaced the fuse and then it gave me a bunch of crazy codes that make no sense at all ( like collision detected and internal security alarms, LOTs of them) Cleared them all and then just a few came back. This sounds like classic rainstorm electrical gremlins.

    I fried my TCU and ECU from water. TCU was plug and play, ECU required re-coding to pair the used ECU to the cluster. The Cluster is like the boss of the car, it houses the Immobilizer function and has a secret 4 digit code that you must enter into the ECU module so they will communicate with each other. You can't pull the 4 digit code. Audi can, and sometimes I can. Then use VAG COM to enter that code into the used ECU to pair the used ECU to your car.



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