I've been doing some research on the oil sensor problem. In the middle of a trip, I had the add 1 quart messages come on. It was at the tail end of an oil change interval, and since I was driving at the time it came on, it probably was low 1 quart. I added a quart and light didn't go away after a few days of driving. I added another quart, still on.
I understand that this part is the hood latch/switch combo needed to fix this issue. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ck/8k0823509g/
2010-2012 Year Dipstick: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ck/06e115611h/
Thread with useful pictures: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=oil+sensor
Questions:
1. Folks are saying there is a way to test that switch: Pop the hood and see if the instrument cluster recognizes the hood being open. If hood switch is bad, car wont see it. What am I looking for here? I turned on the ignition only (not engine), then popped the hood. Does it say hood open in the MMI screen somewhere? If so, where? Or am I looking for a light by the gauge cluster?
2. Is there a way I can short the hood switch sensor for further testing? Maybe arc the to leads?
Hopefully this post can serve as a master post, putting all information into one thread for everyone looking for info.
Edit: I just took the latch assembly off, lightly sanded the switch contacts and then sprayed out with brake parts cleaner. Put it back together and oil warning is gone. Pictures below.
Notes:
1. Remove the long plastic piece that covers the latch. It got 4 bolts and the piece stretches the length of the front engine bay.
2. There is a plastic piece that goes over the supercharger belt. Pop off the plastic cover on the supercharger.
3. There are 3 Allen wrench bolts that face the engine bay that hold the latch assembly on. Those are a pain to get off with an Allen, but I was able to get it. Do not drop the allen or bolts!
4. Pop the switch out of the latch assembly, do not brake the tabs. I used needle nose plyers. (When it was time to put the switch back on, I used a flathead up against the back of the switch and pressed lightly to get it popped back into place.)
5. With very fine sandpaper, lightly sand the contact points of the switch. Then spray out with brake parts cleaner.
6. After this, while moving the switch, I was able to hear electrics/vacuum parts moving like they always do under the hood area.
7. Put everything back together.
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