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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Burning oil, 1Qt every 2 or so weeks?

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    Yesterday, I bought a B6 3.0 V6 for $200 from a guy from craigslist at 162k miles. It was in good condition and had full service history, except it's burning monumental amounts of oil. About a quart every 2 weeks of regular driving. I also found out that it was blowing some greyish smoke when accelerating and on throttle, but would stop after a second or so, which makes me believe that it's valve guides or piston rings.

    Can anyone chime in on their experiences with this sort of problem? Is this motor worth saving? Otherwise, I'd probably just run it into the ground and then do a 2.7t swap since a friend of mine has a motor.

    Here she is next to the current daily. Both are a little dirty from all the pollen mixed with nasty fog.
    '08 A4 Avant 6MT (Light Silver Metallic)- OEM sport suspension, JHM centre diff, APR S1 Tune, JHM LSD, 034 RSB


    '03 Suburban Z71
    '94 Nissan 300zx TT
    '90 Nissan Maxima 5spd

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Not sure about the smoke..but it does go away??

    It could be something as simple as valve cover gaskets and a clogged Pcv and associated plumbing..

    Open the hood after you park it and see whether you smell oil.

  3. #3
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    Yep, the smoke does go away when I'm cruising. None at idle (thank god).

    There doesn't seem to be any oil/burning smell when I pop the hood after driving her, and there looks like some minor sludge buildup around the valve cover. If it's just PCV and VC gaskets, then that would be awesome.
    '08 A4 Avant 6MT (Light Silver Metallic)- OEM sport suspension, JHM centre diff, APR S1 Tune, JHM LSD, 034 RSB


    '03 Suburban Z71
    '94 Nissan 300zx TT
    '90 Nissan Maxima 5spd

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    That sludge could be the burned oil seeping by the gasket. It often never makes it to the ground. You can see it better from under the car.

    There is a thread about replacing the PCV hoses with rubber hoses and brass pex elbows.

    I take it that the coolant is ok.
    You seem like you know what you are doing.
    And I see your list of cars!

    Anyway...at least the 2.7T will swap right in...this might make for a good excuse!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    I would pull the plugs and take a look at the deposits as well as how the top of the piston looks. If you have a broken ring that one cylinder will have oil wash marks on the top near the edges. A compression test may be a good call. That much oil is usually a bad ring.
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Check the valve covers + PCV system. I bet its one or both of those causing the smoke. Hell $200 for a car is awesome. I'd check those two spots out first and go from there.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 151k.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    Check the valve covers + PCV system. I bet its one or both of those causing the smoke. Hell $200 for a car is awesome. I'd check those two spots out first and go from there.
    Then replace the rings
    03 A4 Quattro, 1.8T, 02X six speed conversion/ GJW (4.11 final drive). RS4 RSB, H&R FSB.

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Could be a defective crankcase vent valve. Mine was bad and caused driveability issues. About $42 at autohausaz as an example. The 3.0 shouldn't be an oil burner at that mileage; I'm at 191K and it goes several thousand before needing a quart.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, i was thinking of getting a compression test and leak down test to see the state of the rest of the motor. The apartment I live at no longer lets me work on my car (thanks angry cat lady) so she'll have to go to a shop.

    If there isn't any oil on the plugs of in the cylinders, then are there any other areas that might cause concern, other than pcv and valve covers?

    She's still really smooth and quiet, far better than most modern cars. And waaaaayyy better equiped.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    Yeah, i was thinking of getting a compression test and leak down test to see the state of the rest of the motor. The apartment I live at no longer lets me work on my car (thanks angry cat lady) so she'll have to go to a shop.

    If there isn't any oil on the plugs of in the cylinders, then are there any other areas that might cause concern, other than pcv and valve covers?

    She's still really smooth and quiet, far better than most modern cars. And waaaaayyy better equiped.
    haha. I never heard anyone say the 3.0 was quiet lol. Quite the clanky motor IMO. Either way, I think you should check those 2(3ish including PCV) things and then go from there. Other leaks could be at the oil filter cooler housing where it meets the block. Other than that, besides ring/valve stem wear, theres not really anywhere else for the oil to go. There is a valley pan cover under the intake manifold that might be leaking too, but thats not easy to get to. Start with the easy stuff first.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 151k.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shurur9 View Post
    And I see your list of cars!
    94 TT, huh? Nice. :)
    2005 A4 B6 3.0L USP Ocean Blue

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    haha. I never heard anyone say the 3.0 was quiet lol. Quite the clanky motor IMO.
    Mine is. Unless the hood is open and you are leaning right over the engine and hear the injectors clicking, that thing is quiet, quieter in fact than my wife's 3.2 Q5 with direct injection. And I'm using the recommended 0W-30 synthetic. But to the OP's point; if it isn't leaking, then the oil is going out the exhaust. Check the exhaust tips; are they black or sludgy? How are the catalytic converters working? Excessive oil will put the hurt on them. I mentioned the crankcase pressure valve because if it is bad and blocking the crankcase ventilation, pressure will build up and force oil past the rings, past valve seals, and other seals and gaskets.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    The apartment I live at no longer lets me work on my car (thanks angry cat lady) so she'll have to go to a shop.
    ME Too..I had to move out to get a place I could do my own work..

    Last shop sheared an extractor off in the sheared tensioner bolt..themn told me that they did'nt want to work on it anymore..then left her unlocked and got my radio stolen..then left the hood cable unconnected..then stripped the heads on 4 of the 6 FE bolts ....that was my final queue to move.

    Maybe you should just move now!!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jj94tt View Post
    94 TT, huh? Nice. :)
    Hey! Buddies!

    Well, I was able to take a more thorough look now that there's bright light out and it doesn't feel like I'd die of heat stroke (getting over a cold) and I found some more sludge buildup at the back of the motor and in the harder to see areas, so valve covers are definitely getting replaced. I also got a p0421 code for Bank 1 this morning, but that disappeared almost as soon as the car warmed up (sensor maybe?). It passed smog fine in this terrible, terrible state for car enthusiasts. Well, looks like I've gotta get some downpipes then. Damn

    Also, does anyone know how long of a job valve cover gaskets are at a shop?
    '08 A4 Avant 6MT (Light Silver Metallic)- OEM sport suspension, JHM centre diff, APR S1 Tune, JHM LSD, 034 RSB


    '03 Suburban Z71
    '94 Nissan 300zx TT
    '90 Nissan Maxima 5spd

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    Hey! Buddies!

    Well, I was able to take a more thorough look now that there's bright light out and it doesn't feel like I'd die of heat stroke (getting over a cold) and I found some more sludge buildup at the back of the motor and in the harder to see areas, so valve covers are definitely getting replaced. I also got a p0421 code for Bank 1 this morning, but that disappeared almost as soon as the car warmed up (sensor maybe?). It passed smog fine in this terrible, terrible state for car enthusiasts. Well, looks like I've gotta get some downpipes then. Damn

    Also, does anyone know how long of a job valve cover gaskets are at a shop?
    Get the PCV and hoses done as well..that could have been the start of it all.
    I'm doing mine next week..

    Maybe get a pressure and leak test too..WTH..

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    ...does anyone know how long of a job valve cover gaskets are at a shop?
    I don't know what a shop would quote, but having recently done my timing job, which should always include VCGs, I'd say about an hour to do both. So that you know the routine, the ignition coils have to be disconnected and pulled out, then a lot of Torx head screws holding the covers on. After that, the covers just lift off and the new gaskets pressed into grooves. Also, this would be the ideal time to change the spark plugs, plus swab out the plug wells. Those sometimes collect oil, which can eventually cause misfires.

  17. #17
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by shurur9 View Post
    ME Too..I had to move out to get a place I could do my own work..

    Last shop sheared an extractor off in the sheared tensioner bolt..themn told me that they did'nt want to work on it anymore..then left her unlocked and got my radio stolen..then left the hood cable unconnected..then stripped the heads on 4 of the 6 FE bolts ....that was my final queue to move.

    Maybe you should just move now!!
    Damn, that's a terrible turn of events. And from the sound of that, they probably didn't even take responsibility for negligence.

    Sadly, I'm in college right now and my rent is the cheapest in the area (living on my own in the SF Bay Area), so moving would be a very difficult thing since I'd lose proximity to school and work. Otherwise I'd be tackling this myself lol.

    Now that you mention the TB, it was done on the car was done about 20k miles and 1 year ago. I verified with the shop just to make sure and they told me spark was clean too. Would that be enough time for the the engine to develop that much of a hunger for oil through rings? It's starting to sound more like just pcv valves and the VCGs. Gotta schedule that after the B7 gets its TB done this week
    Last edited by TheGodDerp; 06-13-2018 at 11:51 AM.
    '08 A4 Avant 6MT (Light Silver Metallic)- OEM sport suspension, JHM centre diff, APR S1 Tune, JHM LSD, 034 RSB


    '03 Suburban Z71
    '94 Nissan 300zx TT
    '90 Nissan Maxima 5spd

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings john_gonzo's Avatar
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    Yeah, save some dough, use 3/4" heater hose with 1" PEX elbows. If in doubt, buy the heater hose and take it to Home Depot/Lowes/etc. to test fit the elbows.



    Also, the valve covers have snap-out baffles a.k.a. sludge collectors. Those can be removed, cleaned, reinstalled.





    Good info here: DIY-3-0-PCV-Replacement

  19. #19
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    1999 mustang cobra; 2003 G35 coupe
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    Again..the mechanic will probably check,,,but I'd have them do a compression and leak check as well..

  20. #20
    Active Member One Ring
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    As an update, a friend let me use his place last sunday to work on the valve covers and while I was at it, I replaced the Bank 1 o2 sensor that threw on the check engine light.

    I was able to perform a compression test and leakdown then and both were both fantastic, so no engine disassembly for me.

    In the past week of 2k miles of driving (I had to go to LA while my Dad and I were searching for a specific car) the car hasn't burned a drop of oil.

    Thanks guys for the suggestions and brainstorming!



    Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
    '08 A4 Avant 6MT (Light Silver Metallic)- OEM sport suspension, JHM centre diff, APR S1 Tune, JHM LSD, 034 RSB


    '03 Suburban Z71
    '94 Nissan 300zx TT
    '90 Nissan Maxima 5spd

  21. #21
    Senior Member Three Rings sleepwalker_gsr's Avatar
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    Your mom, tied up.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    Yeah, i was thinking of getting a compression test and leak down test to see the state of the rest of the motor. The apartment I live at no longer lets me work on my car (thanks angry cat lady) so she'll have to go to a shop.

    If there isn't any oil on the plugs of in the cylinders, then are there any other areas that might cause concern, other than pcv and valve covers?

    She's still really smooth and quiet, far better than most modern cars. And waaaaayyy better equiped.
    do it yourself! go to autozone and buy a tester. To look for a warn ring take out one spark plug at a time and pour a cap of oil in it, plug the tester in that spark plug well you removed the plug from and try to turn the car over, watch the compression readings if the compression shoots up then Bam worn ring in that cylinder.
    2003 B6: GT2871R turbo, Snow Performance Water Meth, Motoza tune, FMIC, Straight pipe, ECS RA4 Stage2 Clutch, 034 fuel pump, 034 TIP, Bosch 550cc injectors, fuel rail, 008 DV, Carbonio intake, coilovers, S4 door blades, USP front bumper and painted lowers.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGodDerp View Post
    As an update, a friend let me use his place last sunday to work on the valve covers and while I was at it, I replaced the Bank 1 o2 sensor that threw on the check engine light.

    I was able to perform a compression test and leakdown then and both were both fantastic, so no engine disassembly for me.

    In the past week of 2k miles of driving (I had to go to LA while my Dad and I were searching for a specific car) the car hasn't burned a drop of oil.

    Thanks guys for the suggestions and brainstorming!



    Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
    awesome.glad to hear the good news.
    Now update the PCV lines and the vac lines...

    PCV:
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...CV-Replacement
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...CV-Replacement
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ck-of-manifold
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-throttle-body

    Vacuum
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ne-replacement

    The hard plastic vac lines can be replaced with 4mm OD cohline



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