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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    May 23 2016
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    Edmond, OK

    All C6 folks pls read. P0687 code issue

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    Hello! I'm putting this out in the hopes to spare you guys an upcoming headache.

    So Sunday I went to Harbor Freight (yes, it's awesome). When I left and went to start the car, the starter was going, engine was turning over at normal speed, but would not catch (this went on for about 10sec before I stopped it). I tried it again and this time the starter wouldn't go at all. I pull codes and I had just one, P0687- PCM Power Relay Control Circuit High. So before I freak out over the thought of possible "higher than normal" voltage running through the most expensive electrical component on this car (actually I think it's a toss up between the PCM and the BOSE main amplifier in the back ), I checked on this and other forums about it. Turns out the code is caused by a simple (AND PREVENTABLE) fix.

    Over time, looks like this particular relay just dies. When it does, it seems to get stuck in its closed position (feeding the circuit), so basically the PCM is getting power when it shouldn't be. This could be the cause of the code. Many people state that just hitting it a few times "knocks it loose" and it worked fine for a limited time after. But even they recommend to just replace it because it will happen again.

    I was lucky and after I reset the computer and tried starting it again, I was able to get it to start and was only 3mi down the street from my house. Having learned what I learned, I... [follow these GENERAL GUIDELINES at your own discretion. I'm not liable if you break something. I did not, but every car's condition differs]...

    - Open the hood and remove the plastic cowl cover
    - The PCM AND this relay sit in a black fuse box between the left wiper arm mounting point and the windshield washer filler hole. Remove the torx screws holding the box shot. I think it was a total of 6 (3 easily accessible from the front, and 3 that are a b***h to get to as the lower windshield trim has to be lifted to work in there [there's enough flex to do this whole thing without having to remove the wiper arms and this lower cover]). Don't be afraid to use a u-joint and 3" extension on your torx bit to get to these.
    - Once the bolts are off, you should be able to lift and pull towards the front of the car. You will have to pull with some force as the wiper motor exerts pressure on this as you lift it. I just yanked it out and all was well, lol
    - At this point I ran into a problem. The cover does not contain a diagram of the fuse/ relay area, so I had no idea what was what. But I did see two big relays. I knew ONE of them had to my culprit causing my issue. So I pulled both, and both relays' terminals looked cooked up from the inside outward. These relays were identical (verified by their part numbers). So since I had no clue which was for the PCM, nor what the other relay was for, I replaced both of them with brand new OE relays (part # on the relays have long ago been superseded by part number 4H0-951-253. They were $29 each at my local *Audi dealer and they happened to have 2 in stock.
    - Replace the relays.
    - I had trouble getting the back of the fuse cover back on, as Im sure the "Audi service way" of doing this calls for removing the wiper arms, lower windshield trim, and wiper motor. But I was NOT about to do all that work for just two damn relays. So after struggling to get the back end to hook on their loop (you'll understand when you see it, hard to explain and I forgot to take a pic of this)... I trimmed off some of the raised lip on the cover's "hooks" to shape them more like flat blades so that instead of having to angle the cover for it's rear "hooks" to connect into the box's "loop", I could just SLIDE it into position and all bolt lined up. I did not see this as causing any reason of concern, as the cover has a rubber gasket at the mating surface AND the whole thing gets torqued down with 6 screws... but that was MY decision. Your comfort level may differ. Anywho, once you get the cover back on, to finish just follow these guidelines backwards.

    Congrats! For around $60 and like 20-30mins of your day, you just prevented yourself from being stranded somewhere random, and having to look for a flat-bed tow truck (AWD-friendly, lol) on a Sunday afternoon. You earned a beer .

    ************************************************** ***
    I did check the rest of the fuses while I was in there and none showed signs of corrosion like these relays did. And thankfully none of it had made its way from the relays down into the actual box's connectors). As our cars age I highly recommend you all at least inspect these relays

    here are the pics I took for your reference:

    FUSE BOX WITH COVER AND BOTH RELAYS REMOVED


    CLOSEUP OF RELAY CONNECTORS


    COOKED UP RELAYS


    OLD VS NEW RELAYS SHOWING CURRENT PART NUMBER
    Last edited by 95blkmax; 06-13-2018 at 05:10 AM. Reason: *local AUDI dealer, not BMW, lol (I work at BMW)
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
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    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    So both relays are the exact same part? I might do this just because, no matter what each car's mileage, age is the great equalizer and things degrade over time just as they do over mileage.

    Also, after Googling the part number a lot of different ones came up. Some are black, some are green. What color were yours?
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 312K - 2.4sec FATs - Completely Refreshed/Built Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Clutchmasters Stage 4 - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

    2009 C6.5 A6 3.0T Prestige - stock, daily driver

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings 19jdog's Avatar
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    Jul 28 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    So both relays are the exact same part? I might do this just because, no matter what each car's mileage, age is the great equalizer and things degrade over time just as they do over mileage.

    Also, after Googling the part number a lot of different ones came up. Some are black, some are green. What color were yours?
    yeah +2 probably doesn't matter on the color though..
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings SinCityA6's Avatar
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    @95blkmax, great write up. Your contributions to this forum are invaluable! Thanks for all your contributions!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    '09 C6.5 A6
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
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    Edmond, OK

    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    So both relays are the exact same part? I might do this just because, no matter what each car's mileage, age is the great equalizer and things degrade over time just as they do over mileage.

    Also, after Googling the part number a lot of different ones came up. Some are black, some are green. What color were yours?
    Yes sir, both same part number. I came across a lot of different colors and part numbers as well. The only constant was the location of the relay. My originals were gray as you see. They had "614" in white font on the top. The new ones were green and had "644" written on the top.

    The parts guy at Audi did express to me that he saw there were many part number supersetions (sp*) over the time. He only saw the last 3 part numbers. So Audi has been constantly updating this relay (for this and Im sure other applications throughout their product line). This would certainly explain why when you google this issue, so many different part numbers show up. The part number I provided is the one currently being used.

    Quote Originally Posted by SinCityA6 View Post
    @95blkmax, great write up. Your contributions to this forum are invaluable! Thanks for all your contributions!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Man I'm just trying to keep up with the likes of you Sin! The way I see it, the forum has saved me both time and money. So if I can provide info that can help others Im all for it.
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
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    I have a house project to work on this weekend. But if I get the time, I'm curious to open up these relays and see what the guts look like. This corrosion on the terminals was not external. It's inside the relay and was working its way down the terminals. I've actually never opened a relay so Im curious to see it. Will share pics if I get around to it!
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
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    Feb 19 2013
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    My Garage
    1994 Volvo 850 Turbo
    Location
    Los Angeles

    Also, a good thing to keep in aging cars like ours is something like this



    It's a jumper wire that's really easy to make and carry around. If you get caught on the road with a failed relay, this will get you home in a pinch.
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
    Dead:
    Griselda, aka Grizzy: 2007 Audi C6 A6 Avant (Quattro, S-Line)

    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    So this would be the correct one then? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4h0951253/
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 312K - 2.4sec FATs - Completely Refreshed/Built Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Clutchmasters Stage 4 - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

    2009 C6.5 A6 3.0T Prestige - stock, daily driver

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
    Join Date
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    My Garage
    1994 Volvo 850 Turbo
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    I don't see how it's any different from this relay:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...BoCCqUQAvD_BwE
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
    Dead:
    Griselda, aka Grizzy: 2007 Audi C6 A6 Avant (Quattro, S-Line)

    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

    Need MMI 2G High update info? PM me.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    Also, a good thing to keep in aging cars like ours is something like this


    It's a jumper wire that's really easy to make and carry around. If you get caught on the road with a failed relay, this will get you home in a pinch.
    That's a good tip, thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    So this would be the correct one then? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4h0951253/
    It's certainly the correct part number for it. It could be that the picture is just old

    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    I don't see how it's any different from this relay:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...BoCCqUQAvD_BwE
    At the end of the day, a relay is a relay. Not much that can go wrong (other than corrosion screwing up the magnet contact inside apparently, lol). As as long as it has the same pin-out and amperage rating you should be ok. I went with OEM just due to preference in this case.
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian



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