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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    2010 Audi A4 TFSI B8 P2188 resolved

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    Okay. So I went through all the forums trying to find an answer to this code and try to figure out why my 2010 Audi A4 2.0T TFSI has a hard time starting sometimes and lugs and stutters at stop lights and my gas mileage is super poor. The error code P2188 System Too Rich At Idle Bank 1 can be a lot of things. I literally tried everything. Replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensor the MAF sensor all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils. It Improved a little bit still throwing the error code P2188. I ordered a HPFP and the Cam Follower and now everything is fixed! The Cam follower was in perfect condition but I replaced it just to be safe. Be careful removing the hard Fuel line because right next to it is a flange for your antifreeze.

    Coolant flange part number: 06H121132H

    HPFP part number: 06J127025L

    Cam Follower part number: 06H109311BKT

    I hope this helps someone.
    Last edited by audi-root; 06-07-2018 at 03:17 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    I also replaced the Ignition Coils and spark plugs.


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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings studioRS's Avatar
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    Yes, this is a big help, thank you! I've had this P2188 code once and similar symptoms. Bought the HPFP, cam follower, new plugs and oil, still need to install. The cause of rough running, hard starting and stuttering — the HPFP seal and or HPFP itself leaks gas into the engine after shut off causing the rich running condition.

    Best to also change your oil / filter as it might be contaminated with gas. When doing this, also I've read that an engine oil flush with Pro-Line Liqui Moly 2037 is in order. Added benefit of this flush is it might help free up oil scavenge rings and lower oil consumption.
    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...o-Rich-at-Idle
    https://products.liqui-moly.us/pro-l...e-flush-2.html

    I did a VCDS scan of my fuel pressure at 82˚C on idle, measured at 38-39Bar. Then, tested after 5 min shut-off and pressure increased to 160+bar, so leak down was minimal and don't have leaky injectors. I might have had one bad tank of fuel with excess ethanol causing the code to go off and similar conditions. I'm at 150k miles (and since I've already bought the parts) I'll be changing the HPFP, cam follower anyway for maintenance.
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  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    Yes I forgot to add in changing oil and oil filter.

    Thank you for your reply! Good luck on getting it all changed, super simple job to do just be cautious of the coolant flange super easy to break and you will have a coolant explosion. (Learned from personal experience).

    I think my HPFP has been going out for a while because I have so much more power now. Have you heard of other engine flush’s that do just as good of a job? I am changing the oil tonight and no local auto stores carry it.


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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings studioRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi-root View Post
    ...I am changing the oil tonight and no local auto stores carry it...


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    I'm sure you'll be ok with oil / filter change. Yes, I work in the automotive parts world and have access to pretty much all parts, gets delivered right to work which makes it super convenient. Amazon does offer this.
    https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20.../dp/B00CR3RXTO
    2016 Audi SQ5 Glacier White Metallic, technology & black optic packages

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    Did it fix yours?


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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings audiyadosir's Avatar
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    Recommendations on the HPFP? I replaced mine already, but am still getting the same BS. I was about to dive into the vacuum system when I started reading how the fuel in the oil causes the O2 sensor to read rich, but I still don't understand how P2188 too rich at idle cause by fuel in the oil actually causes my MPG to go down to 8 MPG!! If it's only using more fuel at idle bc it's leaking into the oil...it's not leaking that much fuel or I would have blown up by now, no? Anyway, I'm gonna get the fuel pump, but hate to spend $500. Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers!

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    Which HPFP did you buy. I read a lot before I purchased mine and the cheap ones aren’t worth it they will go out within a thousand miles. I bought mine from ECS TUNING. IMG_7435.JPG

  9. #9
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Hrm... wondering if your case, audiyadosir, is actually a leaky injector, if replacing the fuel pump didn’t fix it.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings audiyadosir's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply! I've changed the fuel pressure sensor, the HPFP and I removed the intake manifold twice to clean the injectors. I haven't checked the fuel filter and I did not test the injectors with VCDS, but I will before buying a new HPFP. I triple checked my game yesterday by doing an engine oil flush, added all new, clean oil (the old clearly smelled of fuel) then I was getting 11 mpg last night and no oil reading 😤 Clogged oil level sensor? So today, I drive my regular sales calls and see what's what. I'm actually getting lower fuel economy today than before the oil change, which shouldn't have been the case if I had bad seals on my HPFP. If after Saturday she's still getting crap mileage, running rich at idle and I have oil that doesn't smell like a fuel dump, I'll pull the IM again and test each injector with VCDS. I'll update this post again.

  11. #11
    Established Member Three Rings
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    As a heads up the Bosch replacement injectors are $49.99 on shopdap.com. At that price I just replaced all 4 of mine when one failed.

  12. #12
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Oh also for low fuel mileage, likely the cause is too much gas going into the cylinder itself, when little gas should be going in because (1) the HPFP is supplying too much pressure when it should be supplying little or (2) an injector, or multiple, are leaking or staying open intermittently or too long.

    So on (1), this happens because the computer control of the HPFP fails, so the HPFP produces max pressure all the time, instead of only when it’s needed, so at low-load way more gas is sent into the combustion chamber/cylinder, and thus the ‘toorich at idle’ condition. If it’s really bad, some gas stays liquid and sits on the top of the piston until it gets past the piston rings and down into the oil.

    On (2), it’s similar, but it’s that the injector doesn’t do what it’s commanded too. Either (a) intermittently staying open longer than commanded, (b) leaking all the time, or (c) permanently staying stuck open. The last one happened to me, personally, and results in the car being barely drivable and then not starting. And in all cases there ends up being gas in the oil, as it seeps past the piston rings. The piston rings can prevent oil from getting past, but not gas, for two reasons: first; oil is way higher viscosity than gas, second; the gas sits on top of the piston, so gravity keeps making it try to get past (whereas oil is below the piston ring, and gravity helps to prevent it from traveling up into the combustion chamber).

    Hopefully that all makes sense, and good luck!

  13. #13
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    2010 A4 Avant w/ 101,000 miles
    Anyone know if having a engine carbon clean service done would cause the P2188 'System too rich at idle' code to show up? Code popped up roughly 40mins after service was completed. Just wondering if there's any insight on that cause if the shop is at fault I'd rather try and have them cough up the money since there's a variety of possible solutions.

    Let me also state for convenience' sake, my mpg was pretty crappy even before the service. I believe all this could be a coincidence and that it's just time to replace the HPFP. Any help is appreciated .

  14. #14
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    Forgot to add 'Bank 1' to the code description.

  15. #15
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Yes, it sounds like it was failing if your gas mileage was that bad. A common failure mode is the control mechanism starts to fail, causing a higher-than programmed pressure. This is because the control mechanism actually reduces pressure, so if it does nothing, Max pressure is produced.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicholsB8 View Post
    2010 A4 Avant w/ 101,000 miles
    Anyone know if having a engine carbon clean service done would cause the P2188 'System too rich at idle' code to show up? Code popped up roughly 40mins after service was completed. Just wondering if there's any insight on that cause if the shop is at fault I'd rather try and have them cough up the money since there's a variety of possible solutions.

    Let me also state for convenience' sake, my mpg was pretty crappy even before the service. I believe all this could be a coincidence and that it's just time to replace the HPFP. Any help is appreciated .
    Too funny, im having the same code pop up and i just did the carbon cleaning, replaced the fuel injectors, spark plugs, and even the lpfp (whole unit) under the rear seat. I think im gonna try the hofp next lol im also getting for the 3rd time ( 3rd turbo) the 0299 code come up aswell. Oh well

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings SickAvant's Avatar
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    oh man, I have had this issue for so long and can't figure out what the problem is... Here are something I have tried...

    Spark Plugs (2 sets)
    Carbon Cleaning (dealer done, fucken expensive)
    Coil Packs
    Injectors

    and still issue..

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings audiyadosir's Avatar
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    A lot of work done, a ton of reading and I’m well on my way, but she still sounds like she’s ripping a big fart when I head up a medium hill I’m SF!! So frustrating!

    She’s up to 29 HWY, 14.9 CITY!! I’ll take it from the 8 - 11 MPG before. Did a lot of replacing and a lot of cleaning. I still hear a leak in the breather from the PCV to turbo, but part is on the way. I think that’ll get it, but boost pressure system test shows no leak...I was burning a lot of oil and had blocked the exhaust on the PCV, vented to atmosphere and plugged IM vent from PCV. Looks like another bad PCV valve.

    I’m going for the repair kit next time, but after I changed the injectors, spark plugs, cleaned intake, intake valves, checked vacuum unit and system, replaced fuel pressure sensor on rail, MAF sensor, fuel filter, etc. I started tracking on GasBuddy.com and I’m a lot better on MPG than I thought and all that work killed the 2188 code!!

    I bought everything from FCPEuro and am very pleased. Good luck. I don’t think my fight is over, but it’s good for now!!




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  19. #19
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I'm having the same issue, but without the 0299 code. Did the HPFP fix your problem?

  20. #20
    Active Member Two Rings audi-root's Avatar
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    P0299 sounds like a turbo wastegate problem.


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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jacon's Avatar
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    I can confirm that these symptoms are indeed the HPFP.

    I have Blackstone Labs perform an oil analysis every 5K miles after my oil changes and they flagged a high fuel contamination in my oil around 2.5% before I observed any REAL problems (this was 15K miles ago). Blackstone observed increasing fuel and iron contamination 15K miles before I noticed performance problems or threw CEL codes. Hats off to that company!

    Note: I was experiencing rough starts and burps in the RPMs under various throttle conditions for the last 20K miles but no CELs or hard starts.

    Last two weeks the symptoms worsened. Long crank time to start or no start followed with a couple P2188 codes. Under full load in 4th gear, the fuel would cutout or grossly hesitate until I backed off the throttle and re-engaged. I cleaned the air filter, checked plugs and injectors but these didn't solve the problem.

    I replaced the HPFP and cam follower. Now, the car starts like it did on day one when I bought it off the lot; one or two cranks and she fires. Throttle response is noticeably better and there's no hesitation in the throttle response or RPM climb, regardless of throttle input. Through my research of the problem, the internal seals of the HPFP fail and allow fuel to bypass the cam follower into the top end of the crankcase, hence Blackstone noticing the increased fuel AND iron percentage (indicative of a failing seal or piston).

    This is a 30-45 min repair. You'll need a #10 triple square, rags for dripping fuel, pliers for the hose clamp and a 17mm box wrench for the hard line to the fuel rail. Be sure to open the in-cabin fuse box and pull the 25a for the fuel pump. You don't want to accidentally trigger the LPFP while the low-pressure hose is disconnected from the HPFP (fuel everywhere!!).

    If you don't get a regular oil analysis done, change the oil anyway if you are unsure of your fuel contamination.

    This is my 09 with 135K miles.
    Last edited by Jacon; 10-19-2019 at 09:36 AM.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by audiyadosir View Post
    A lot of work done, a ton of reading and I’m well on my way, but she still sounds like she’s ripping a big fart when I head up a medium hill I’m SF!! So frustrating!

    She’s up to 29 HWY, 14.9 CITY!! I’ll take it from the 8 - 11 MPG before. Did a lot of replacing and a lot of cleaning. I still hear a leak in the breather from the PCV to turbo, but part is on the way. I think that’ll get it, but boost pressure system test shows no leak...I was burning a lot of oil and had blocked the exhaust on the PCV, vented to atmosphere and plugged IM vent from PCV. Looks like another bad PCV valve.

    I’m going for the repair kit next time, but after I changed the injectors, spark plugs, cleaned intake, intake valves, checked vacuum unit and system, replaced fuel pressure sensor on rail, MAF sensor, fuel filter, etc. I started tracking on GasBuddy.com and I’m a lot better on MPG than I thought and all that work killed the 2188 code!!

    I bought everything from FCPEuro and am very pleased. Good luck. I don’t think my fight is over, but it’s good for now!!




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    I know this thread is old but I’m having exact same problem with the hard or no starts, rough idle, did plugs and coils so far, thinking of doing pcm valve or mad sensor next... my car doesn’t burn that much oil though which is great and gas mileage not that bad.. glad to see what options I have as far as diagnosing... car runs great while I’m driving though... u think I should try all the things u did as well?


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacon View Post
    I can confirm that these symptoms are indeed the HPFP.

    I have Blackstone Labs perform an oil analysis every 5K miles after my oil changes and they flagged a high fuel contamination in my oil around 2.5% before I observed any REAL problems (this was 15K miles ago). Blackstone observed increasing fuel and iron contamination 15K miles before I noticed performance problems or threw CEL codes. Hats off to that company!

    Note: I was experiencing rough starts and burps in the RPMs under various throttle conditions for the last 20K miles but no CELs or hard starts.

    Last two weeks the symptoms worsened. Long crank time to start or no start followed with a couple P2188 codes. Under full load in 4th gear, the fuel would cutout or grossly hesitate until I backed off the throttle and re-engaged. I cleaned the air filter, checked plugs and injectors but these didn't solve the problem.

    I replaced the HPFP and cam follower. Now, the car starts like it did on day one when I bought it off the lot; one or two cranks and she fires. Throttle response is noticeably better and there's no hesitation in the throttle response or RPM climb, regardless of throttle input. Through my research of the problem, the internal seals of the HPFP fail and allow fuel to bypass the cam follower into the top end of the crankcase, hence Blackstone noticing the increased fuel AND iron percentage (indicative of a failing seal or piston).

    This is a 30-45 min repair. You'll need a #10 triple square, rags for dripping fuel, pliers for the hose clamp and a 17mm box wrench for the hard line to the fuel rail. Be sure to open the in-cabin fuse box and pull the 25a for the fuel pump. You don't want to accidentally trigger the LPFP while the low-pressure hose is disconnected from the HPFP (fuel everywhere!!).

    If you don't get a regular oil analysis done, change the oil anyway if you are unsure of your fuel contamination.

    This is my 09 with 135K miles.
    Hopefully you replaced your oil after replacing the hpfp aswell brother🍻

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jacon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slick_B8 View Post
    Hopefully you replaced your oil after replacing the hpfp aswell brother🍻
    I did. Changed same day.

    Waiting on my oil analysis from Blackstone.
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  25. #25
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    This is an older thread but wanted to provide my input and say thanks. I too was having same symptoms on my 2012 A5 along with the pesky P2188 code. Replaced the MAF, Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors, PCV, new plugs and coils and still nothing. Still the same symptoms. Hard or no start, at cold start exhaust would misfire/sputter, car would lug and want to stall out. It progressively worsened over time to the point where it began giving me the p0300 to p0304 cylinder misfire codes along with P0506 (idle control system RPM lower than expected), P2279 (intake air system leak bank 1), p050A (cold start idle control system performance).

    About 2 weeks ago, after researching this issue on Audi threads, I finally replaced the HPFP and did the oil change (went with Hitachi HPFP from ECS Tuning - $275 price, Oil change kit for $50). Job was fairly easy. I normally have my vehicle sent to the shop but figured I would save some money on labor by doing it myself. As of today, I am fault code and symptom free (knocking on wood). Car starts up just fine, idles above 1k RPM for about 30 to 45 seconds then RPM drops. If that changes I will deft re-post.

    Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread about the HPFP replacement. OEM pump looked as if it had zero issues but reading this post made me take the flyer on changing it and thus far it has worked out.

    Hope this helps out anyone having similar issues.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by monarchs08 View Post
    This is an older thread but wanted to provide my input and say thanks. I too was having same symptoms on my 2012 A5 along with the pesky P2188 code. Replaced the MAF, Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors, PCV, new plugs and coils and still nothing. Still the same symptoms. Hard or no start, at cold start exhaust would misfire/sputter, car would lug and want to stall out. It progressively worsened over time to the point where it began giving me the p0300 to p0304 cylinder misfire codes along with P0506 (idle control system RPM lower than expected), P2279 (intake air system leak bank 1), p050A (cold start idle control system performance).

    About 2 weeks ago, after researching this issue on Audi threads, I finally replaced the HPFP and did the oil change (went with Hitachi HPFP from ECS Tuning - $275 price, Oil change kit for $50). Job was fairly easy. I normally have my vehicle sent to the shop but figured I would save some money on labor by doing it myself. As of today, I am fault code and symptom free (knocking on wood). Car starts up just fine, idles above 1k RPM for about 30 to 45 seconds then RPM drops. If that changes I will deft re-post.

    Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread about the HPFP replacement. OEM pump looked as if it had zero issues but reading this post made me take the flyer on changing it and thus far it has worked out.

    Hope this helps out anyone having similar issues.
    What were your symptoms? Only a very occasional hard start, or always hard/no start with hesitation and stuttering during driving?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by monarchs08 View Post
    This is an older thread but wanted to provide my input and say thanks. I too was having same symptoms on my 2012 A5 along with the pesky P2188 code. Replaced the MAF, Camshaft and Crankshaft position sensors, PCV, new plugs and coils and still nothing. Still the same symptoms. Hard or no start, at cold start exhaust would misfire/sputter, car would lug and want to stall out. It progressively worsened over time to the point where it began giving me the p0300 to p0304 cylinder misfire codes along with P0506 (idle control system RPM lower than expected), P2279 (intake air system leak bank 1), p050A (cold start idle control system performance).

    About 2 weeks ago, after researching this issue on Audi threads, I finally replaced the HPFP and did the oil change (went with Hitachi HPFP from ECS Tuning - $275 price, Oil change kit for $50). Job was fairly easy. I normally have my vehicle sent to the shop but figured I would save some money on labor by doing it myself. As of today, I am fault code and symptom free (knocking on wood). Car starts up just fine, idles above 1k RPM for about 30 to 45 seconds then RPM drops. If that changes I will deft re-post.

    Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread about the HPFP replacement. OEM pump looked as if it had zero issues but reading this post made me take the flyer on changing it and thus far it has worked out.

    Hope this helps out anyone having similar issues.
    How many miles?


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  28. #28
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    I had the same code and took it to Audi and they couldn't figure out that it was the HPFP. I came here and read many articles which lead me to changing the HPFP. I did everything you did as well. I posted my article when I had my issue. It is an easy fix but hard to trouble shoot.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4lane View Post
    What were your symptoms? Only a very occasional hard start, or always hard/no start with hesitation and stuttering during driving?
    My car has almost the exact symptoms but it drives great, just starting and idling is bad. Also my Long term fuel adaptation is always super rich at -40% to -50%.

    To those who have changed their HPFP - how did the car run when driving through the gears or doing a long pull in 1 gear?

  30. #30
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    What is a normal wastegate sound compared to a leak in the PCV valve?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by NO2nice View Post
    What is a normal wastegate sound compared to a leak in the PCV valve?
    Sometimes the pcv will make a 1 second squealing noise, like a belt is loose or a balloon has air escaping squeal. But not always. Just depends on where the diaphragm tears in the cap.

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  32. #32
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    Hello there
    Been having trouble with my 2013 Audi A4 took it in to the shop and they replaced the lpfp and fuel pump module.
    It was good for 2 weeks and just recently went into limp mode. Borrow owed a code reader and read 2188 we figured it was the hpfp so we replaced that. But now it's reading a 2279 code along with the 2188. Does anybody know what it could be?

  33. #33
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    Is that 02279 and 02188 or P2279 and P2188? Be accurate when posting data. 2013, so this is a CAEB engine or a CPMA engine?

    P2188 Fuel System
    • System too rich at idle
    • Adaptive value < 6.0%
    (I assume it means IDE01869, long-term fuel trim bank 1 at idle, < -6.0%)

    P2279 Intake Air System Leak
    • Threshold to detect a defective system > 1.45
    and
    • Ratio of the tie system defective during the measurement window to the whole duration of the measurement window > 0.60
    (never understood what these numbers were or how they are represented in the measuring values)

    Pretty curious that you have a rich at idle yet also an intake air leak, which one would presume would push things lean. Rich at idle, leaking injector? Air leak, something didn't get put back correctly?
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi-root View Post
    Okay. So I went through all the forums trying to find an answer to this code and try to figure out why my 2010 Audi A4 2.0T TFSI has a hard time starting sometimes and lugs and stutters at stop lights and my gas mileage is super poor. The error code P2188 System Too Rich At Idle Bank 1 can be a lot of things. I literally tried everything. Replaced both upstream and downstream O2 sensor the MAF sensor all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils. It Improved a little bit still throwing the error code P2188. I ordered a HPFP and the Cam Follower and now everything is fixed! The Cam follower was in perfect condition but I replaced it just to be safe. Be careful removing the hard Fuel line because right next to it is a flange for your antifreeze.

    Coolant flange part number: 06H121132H

    HPFP part number: 06J127025L

    Cam Follower part number: 06H109311BKT

    I hope this helps someone.

    I’m about to change my HPFP! Keeping my fingers crossed! Thank you for the info

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hegehoncho View Post
    I’m about to change my HPFP! Keeping my fingers crossed! Thank you for the info
    Did it work? I'am having the same problems and changed my spark plugs, PCV so far but no good.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Three Rings A42007's Avatar
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    Jan 12 2011
    AZ Member #
    69400
    My Garage
    2018 Audi A4 B9, 2012 B8 Avant
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ

    Quote Originally Posted by yasithvgd View Post
    Did it work? I'am having the same problems and changed my spark plugs, PCV so far but no good.
    Pull the HPFP (I had mine out in less than 10 minutes). If it's leaking, you'll smell the gas. Nothing really to "look" for other than smell.
    2007 B7 A4 FWD - APR Stage II / Magna Flow Cat Back / 2.5" TP / ST Coilovers / 19x8.5 ET 32 RS6 Reps / Aftermarket Navigation / 235/35 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's. - http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...di-07-A4-Build.


    2012 B8 A4 Avant Premium Plus Quattro (S4 Conversion In-Progress) - ECS Hi-Flow Cat / 3" Down-pipe / Air Lift Performance 3H Air Ride / 10.25" RSNAV Series 4 / Rohana RC7 20x9 ET25 / Ohtsu FP8000 255/30R20

  37. #37
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Oct 22 2018
    AZ Member #
    429514
    Location
    Reno

    Just adding some more data to the thread: 2014 A4 B8.5, TSFI engine, 6spd manual, roughly 100k miles. (I think mine is the CAED engine, but not 100% positive). I got the Hitachi pump from FCP Euro, ended up being just over $400 with tax and shipping: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...ump-06j127025j. I looked at ECS Tuning but all their pumps said they're only for the TSI, not TFSI, engine. I don't know why that would be, but I decided not to chance it.

    The only apparent symptoms I had were 1) slightly harder starting when cold, and 2) it would almost imperceptibly stumble sometimes at low rpms, like when driving at very slow speeds in a parking lot. After a couple months of those symptoms (thinking maybe my battery was the culprit), I got the P2188 code.

    After replacing the HPFP, everything is back to normal, and running much more smoothly now. I watched a couple Naptown Tuner vids on youtube as the sole research and prep to do the job. It's not a difficult job overall, but there are a couple things that can be a pain if you're not prepared. First off, when trying to pull the vacuum tube as well as the low pressure fuel inlet to the HPFP, the stock hose clamps would simply not open wide enough to slide back on the rubber hoses. What should've taken 3 minutes took 30 as I tried to squeeze them hard enough to slip back on the tubes. I ended up needing to bend the tabs on both of them so I could squeeze them farther to open up more. Never had that problem before, in many many years of using these types of simple clamps. When I did finally get the fuel line off, since my car had been sitting for a few days, it barely dribbled. When done, I replaced the offending hose clamps with "type g" style hose clamps, similar to t-bolt clamps. I'm not a big fan of worm-drive hose clamps.

    The other thing that tripped me up was my 10mm triple square bit wouldn't fit for the upper pump bolt. As someone else mentioned, you need a long-style #10 triple square bit, as the access is narrow. The type of bit which is inserted in a 3/8" adapter won't work. After buying a longer bit, the pump came off pretty easily.

    I checked the cam follower roller bearing and it looked immaculate, so I left it alone. To get the pump back on, I used the method of starting the triple square bolts at the same time, then slowly tightening each one a couple turns at a time to evenly pull the pump into place, as the plunger spring gets depressed. It'll make sense when you get in there. I also had no trouble getting the hard fuel line back on the bottom of the pump- loosening the T-30 bolt on the little holder clamp helped. You do need some sort of short 17mm wrench to get to the flare nut on that line though. I have a set of flare nut wrenches that worked well.
    Last edited by NTjunk; 03-09-2025 at 09:59 PM.

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