Help, first time b8 3.0 supercharged owner need tuning advice

[mike0819]

Hi recently brought an b8 s5 sportback 2011, with 32k on clock. Want to tune it. I. M very new to this, can all of you guys who done it give me some link and advice which parts I should buy to get best result. Not necessarily has to be the most expensive, but better results and money worth. I. M planning to do the whole route. Goal is to get about 450hp to 500hp, tracking it occasionally, most time drive on street with some spirit driving .budget is about 8 to 10 thousand, of course money is an issue, so had to be well spent. Here is the list I plan to do.

1 intake, which brand is best for sound and price? Awe, Apr, and any other brand is good? There is some on ebay.I just not sure which sound best.

2 exhaust, I plan just buy the decat pipe, will that make a more sportier sound? Not really gonna do the whole exhaust. There some on ebay made in Russia, any other advice on exhaust? I just Don.t feel like full exhaust cause of the price and maybe too loud.

3 pulley upgrade. So which company is best? Apr pulley kit is not cheap, there also the ebay kit, I not sure if they all work the same? Do I just need one set of smaller pulley? Is there any other things I can do to supercharger to make gain?

4 water pump and the most, do they need to be changed while I do my superchager pulley? I read the b8 s5 engine has high failure rate, might as well change it, what brand I should go for? My car done 32000km.any other easy failure parts I change while doing the superchager? Save labour and time.

5 ecu tune, there is apr, and revo, and some other brand, which give best results? Do I need dyno tune for best results? Also do I need tcu dual clutch transmission tune? I be driving manual 99 percent time, is it worth it to do it also?


6 suspension, I. M not really gonna lower it, can change only swaybar give lot improvement? For sway bar do I buy the pair or front sway bar only to reduce under steering like all audi do? What brand?

7 brake, how. S the s5 standard like? I feel OK for street driving. Can I change it to some slot rotor and better pad. Or need to be upgraded

8 tyres, factory is 255 19 35, can I run 265 19 35 just bit wider? Or will it ruin my speedo

9 Bluetooth phone, my car did not get that option, is there any aftermarket option for that?

10 cooling, can the standard supercharger handle the power increase? It seems like an quit expensive kit to buy, I. M not sure if this is a must.

Is there any other cost effective kits and parts I can buy, please let me know, any of comments will be really appreciated, please help me guys. I want starts get my car tuning and ready

[Morritse]

If you're shooting for 450 crank, you'll want to go stage 2. 500 will require stage 2+ and probably some e85 as well.

Hit up European performance labs on Facebook.

1) intake really isn't that important. You can punch some holes in the airbox and get a better inlet hose for next to nothing. This is more than good enough.

2) I wouldn't strongly recommend against a decat pipe. Changing cat pipes is around $1000, and unless you are planning to go dual pulley, there is no benefit. Resonator delete is $300 and sounds FAR better than going catless.

3) not super important what you go for. Ask your tuning company.

4) I wouldn't worry about the water pump and thermostat at this mileage.

5) I'd probably go EPL. They're very active on the forums, and will help you get what you need for way better prices than APR. TCU tune does a lot more than adjust shift points, it's 100% worth getting even if you always drive in manual mode.

6) if you aren't worried about appearance, stock suspension is fine at your mileage, get some 034 transmission inserts, rear sway bars, engine mounts, and struts, will stiffen up the car nicely and relatively cheap.

7) I can't speak on this, I've only ever had a big brake kit. If you track, I would 100% upgrade them.

8) I don't think going from 255-265 will have any effect on your speedo. And honestly, 255 is wide enough at stage 2. Make sure you get some good rubber though.

9) yea. I've used this Bluetooth thing called "tune 2 air" on a few Audi's. Works almost perfectly. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-tune2air.../wma3000a~t2a/

10) I would highly recommend getting upgraded cooling. You will definitely see huge benefit at stage 2. I think there are kits for around $1k. I personally have APRs kit.

[tar]

Uni stage 2 and tcu, mod stock intake, xpipe exhaust, lower car, rear sway bar cr15, good tires.

Will admit I read first line of ur post. These threads pop up weekly so if you read around a bit you would find answers to all ur questions.

[Ford Prefect]

They are also about 7-8 tuners now, not 3.

I do like EPL and flashing from home. But answer are in here, narrow down what your torn between, 2-3 different brands, then open the flood gates.

You’ll get more precise feedback that way.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[mike0819]

If you're shooting for 450 crank, you'll want to go stage 2. 500 will require stage 2+ and probably some e85 as well.

Hit up European performance labs on Facebook.

1) intake really isn't that important. You can punch some holes in the airbox and get a better inlet hose for next to nothing. This is more than good enough.

2) I wouldn't strongly recommend against a decat pipe. Changing cat pipes is around $1000, and unless you are planning to go dual pulley, there is no benefit. Resonator delete is $300 and sounds FAR better than going catless.

3) not super important what you go for. Ask your tuning company.

4) I wouldn't worry about the water pump and thermostat at this mileage.

5) I'd probably go EPL. They're very active on the forums, and will help you get what you need for way better prices than APR. TCU tune does a lot more than adjust shift points, it's 100% worth getting even if you always drive in manual mode.

6) if you aren't worried about appearance, stock suspension is fine at your mileage, get some 034 transmission inserts, rear sway bars, engine mounts, and struts, will stiffen up the car nicely and relatively cheap.

7) I can't speak on this, I've only ever had a big brake kit. If you track, I would 100% upgrade them.

8) I don't think going from 255-265 will have any effect on your speedo. And honestly, 255 is wide enough at stage 2. Make sure you get some good rubber though.

9) yea. I've used this Bluetooth thing called "tune 2 air" on a few Audi's. Works almost perfectly. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-tune2air.../wma3000a~t2a/

10) I would highly recommend getting upgraded cooling. You will definitely see huge benefit at stage 2. I think there are kits for around $1k. I personally have APRs kit.

Hi thanks so much for the reply, there are too much information on the forum I don't even know where to start, with your answer I finally get somewhere

1 so do I get lot of gain from doing the intake with tune and that, or mainly just a sound improvement?

2, so if I want do catless pipe, it would get more gain to go for the dual pulley set up? Will I get quit a bit gain from doing the exhaust? Resonator delete pipe add any power? Is it gonna be like a quit bit labour and work? Like does the engine has to come out to fit it? Would I get lots of gain for that?

3 With pulley upgrade, is it worth it go for the dual pulley by Apr than single pulley? The price do cost more? Does dual pulley make lot more power? To install it does it require the engine out? I might do the exhaust together if that is the case

4 thank i will leave the water pump and thermostat, how many k do they normally need to be replaced? Does the 2011 model surfer from the thermostat problem?

5 And for the ecu tune, do you have a link to epl? Are they a mail order company? I stay in New Zealand and Apr is the only company have a branch in my city, so I need get it dyno tuned or it can do it with mail sent ecu. For tcu tube, will it make it shift faster? If I manually shift most time, worth the money spent?

6 transmission insert is worth the little money spent? What company makes them? And do I need change the front swaybar also? Or just do the rear only.

7 yes I be going for some better pad for now, a big break kit will just break my budget.

8 is it possible to fit 265 35 tyre on the stock size 19 rim? Are they 8.5 maybe too wide? I may just change to michilen Ps4 for better traction

9 thanks I be trying that, just one more question i want to upgrade the stock sound system, is it worth to change those factory speakers or they are quit good brand, I not sure what brand audi run them on factory?

10 the Apr radiator cooling kit? Does it require any trim on inside bumper or it.s an direct bolt on fit?

Thank you very much if you can help me with some advice, I be ordering my parts on Monday and starts tuning

One very last and important question, what job you think is OK to diy with some mechanic mates, and what job must get it done from audi dealer? They charge quit high on labours, do I must get the supercharger pulley install by them? Like special tools? Cheers

[Bartlett]

Hi thanks so much for the reply, there are too much information on the forum I don't even know where to start, with your answer I finally get somewhere

1 so do I get lot of gain from doing the intake with tune and that, or mainly just a sound improvement?

There are claims for 10ish WHP.

2, so if I want do catless pipe, it would get more gain to go for the dual pulley set up? Will I get quit a bit gain from doing the exhaust? Resonator delete pipe add any power? Is it gonna be like a quit bit labour and work? Like does the engine has to come out to fit it? Would I get lots of gain for that?

From what I've seen, catless = 20ish WHP. Other exhaust upgrades I believe get maybe ~10 WHP tops.

3 With pulley upgrade, is it worth it go for the dual pulley by Apr than single pulley? The price do cost more? Does dual pulley make lot more power? To install it does it require the engine out? I might do the exhaust together if that is the case

If you de-cat your car, it might make more sense to do it at the same time as the pulley and heat exchanger upgrade. But, dual-pulley is what you'll want. It does not cost much more, but you'll want upgraded cooling which will be ~$1k. You will likely want a 183mm or 187mm crank pulley and a CTS 57.02mm slave pulley.

4 thank i will leave the water pump and thermostat, how many k do they normally need to be replaced? Does the 2011 model surfer from the thermostat problem?

I'm not sure, but I believe 2011/2012 has less water pump and thermostat issues than 2010 and lower.

5 And for the ecu tune, do you have a link to epl? Are they a mail order company? I stay in New Zealand and Apr is the only company have a branch in my city, so I need get it dyno tuned or it can do it with mail sent ecu. For tcu tube, will it make it shift faster? If I manually shift most time, worth the money spent?

You will mainly need a TCU tune for Stage 2 and beyond to handle the additional power. The other benefit is the higher RPMs and slightly quicker shifts. You can do an at-home flash with most companies nowadays, so you don't need to take your car anywhere.
6 transmission insert is worth the little money spent? What company makes them? And do I need change the front swaybar also? Or just do the rear only.

I'd recommend front and rear sway bars by Eurocode. Transmission insert is about $80 and it's probably money well-spent. It's not a night and day difference though. I have it.

7 yes I be going for some better pad for now, a big break kit will just break my budget.

Get stainless steel brake lines and good fluid, and get a good set of semi-metallic pads.

8 is it possible to fit 265 35 tyre on the stock size 19 rim? Are they 8.5 maybe too wide? I may just change to michilen Ps4 for better traction

Idk

9 thanks I be trying that, just one more question i want to upgrade the stock sound system, is it worth to change those factory speakers or they are quit good brand, I not sure what brand audi run them on factory?

If you have B&O, they're pretty decent. But, check out the sound system thread for more info.

10 the Apr radiator cooling kit? Does it require any trim on inside bumper or it.s an direct bolt on fit?

APR and a handful of other companies are bolt-ons.

Thank you very much if you can help me with some advice, I be ordering my parts on Monday and starts tuning

One very last and important question, what job you think is OK to diy with some mechanic mates, and what job must get it done from audi dealer? They charge quit high on labours, do I must get the supercharger pulley install by them? Like special tools? Cheers

Oil, pulley, filters, intake, exhaust. For the slave pulley, you need a pulley removal tool. I think the sway bars, brakes, DSG service, and heat exchanger upgrades are more intermediate-advanced jobs, especially the DSG service.

See above.

I'd also recommended ported supercharger and throttle body for ~20-25 WHP gains.

[Morritse]

Hi thanks so much for the reply, there are too much information on the forum I don't even know where to start, with your answer I finally get somewhere

1 so do I get lot of gain from doing the intake with tune and that, or mainly just a sound improvement?

2, so if I want do catless pipe, it would get more gain to go for the dual pulley set up? Will I get quit a bit gain from doing the exhaust? Resonator delete pipe add any power? Is it gonna be like a quit bit labour and work? Like does the engine has to come out to fit it? Would I get lots of gain for that?

3 With pulley upgrade, is it worth it go for the dual pulley by Apr than single pulley? The price do cost more? Does dual pulley make lot more power? To install it does it require the engine out? I might do the exhaust together if that is the case

4 thank i will leave the water pump and thermostat, how many k do they normally need to be replaced? Does the 2011 model surfer from the thermostat problem?

5 And for the ecu tune, do you have a link to epl? Are they a mail order company? I stay in New Zealand and Apr is the only company have a branch in my city, so I need get it dyno tuned or it can do it with mail sent ecu. For tcu tube, will it make it shift faster? If I manually shift most time, worth the money spent?

6 transmission insert is worth the little money spent? What company makes them? And do I need change the front swaybar also? Or just do the rear only.

7 yes I be going for some better pad for now, a big break kit will just break my budget.

8 is it possible to fit 265 35 tyre on the stock size 19 rim? Are they 8.5 maybe too wide? I may just change to michilen Ps4 for better traction

9 thanks I be trying that, just one more question i want to upgrade the stock sound system, is it worth to change those factory speakers or they are quit good brand, I not sure what brand audi run them on factory?

10 the Apr radiator cooling kit? Does it require any trim on inside bumper or it.s an direct bolt on fit?

Thank you very much if you can help me with some advice, I be ordering my parts on Monday and starts tuning

One very last and important question, what job you think is OK to diy with some mechanic mates, and what job must get it done from audi dealer? They charge quit high on labours, do I must get the supercharger pulley install by them? Like special tools? Cheers

1. You won't really get gain from intake, you will hear the supercharger more though.

2. doing anything to the exhaust is very very minimal gains. I was just trying to convey that you need to go catless if you plan to go dual pulley, because your cats will melt. Changing the cats is a TON of work, I would definitely just go single pulley (stage 2) first, and if you want more power, do that stuff later.

3. Dual pulley gives a decent gain in power, and quite a bit more low end torque. Like I said before, you should go single pulley first, you aren't really going to save money by doing them at the same time, there isn't any overlap in the labor for the lower and upper pulleys.

4. Honestly don't know, I had mine replaced at 80k and they hadn't failed before that.

5. Here is their thread. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=epl+source You can do all the tuning yourself, you don't have to take it anywhere. And yes, TCU tune will decrease shift times. Definitely worth the money.

6. Not sure, bought the car with it, but it's a very popular upgrade. They're made by 034, you can search the forums for reviews.

7.

8. They don't recommend going over 255 on 8.5 inch wheels. I have 255/35/19 pilot super sports, traction is sufficient at stage 3

9. I have personally found that the stock system with a sub is more than adequate. I really enjoy my setup.

10. Don't know, bought the car with it, but I don't think it's too hard. https://manuals.goapr.com/Engine_Har...si_40t_CPS.pdf

About the labor, you will be able to do everything EXCEPT changing the cats with ease. You may need some special tools for removing the supercharger pulleys, but those are pretty inexpensive. Contact EPL and they can tell you exactly what you should buy.

[Morritse]

But, dual-pulley is what you'll want. It does not cost much more, but you'll want upgraded cooling which will be ~$1k. You will likely want a 183mm or 187mm crank pulley and a CTS 57.02mm slave pulley.

While the hardware for dual pulley itself isn't expensive, I'd argue that the safe supporting mods are. Everyone will dual pulley is going to blow their cats, which is a super expensive repair. as for drive pulley size, EPL doesn't recommend larger than 183mm, and anything larger than 180mm requires some grinding, which isn't ideal.

[Bartlett]

While the hardware for dual pulley itself isn't expensive, I'd argue that the safe supporting mods are. Everyone will dual pulley is going to blow their cats, which is a super expensive repair. as for drive pulley size, EPL doesn't recommend larger than 183mm, and anything larger than 180mm requires some grinding, which isn't ideal.

True, but he likely is fine being catless at some point because of his budget and performance goals. His budget more than supports every mod we've been discussing.

And if you don't get a pulley larger than 183, then 3.21 is your max pulley ratio. 3.28 or 3.31 can be agreeable if shift points are ~7200 or less, he has ported SC, and proper cooling.

$2500 for tunes.
$500 for pulleys.
$1000 for cooling.
$500 for sways & trans mount.
$700 for rotors, pads, lines, fluid.
$1500 for test pipes and labor.
$1000 for porting.
Even throw in another $1000 for labor.

That's like $9k right there. Exchange rates might be another story.

Also, most parts of New Zealand likely will have 2000 + DA most of the year, unless he's in Auckland or something. Looks like that is near sea level.

[mike0819]

True, but he likely is fine being catless at some point because of his budget and performance goals. His budget more than supports every mod we've been discussing.

And if you don't get a pulley larger than 183, then 3.21 is your max pulley ratio. 3.28 or 3.31 can be agreeable if shift points are ~7200 or less, he has ported SC, and proper cooling.

$2500 for tunes.
$500 for pulleys.
$1000 for cooling.
$500 for sways & trans mount.
$700 for rotors, pads, lines, fluid.
$1500 for test pipes and labor.
$1000 for porting.
Even throw in another $1000 for labor.

That's like $9k right there. Exchange rates might be another story.

Also, most parts of New Zealand likely will have 2000 + DA most of the year, unless he's in Auckland or something. Looks like that is near sea level.

Hi thanks for the reply, yes I. M base in Auckland, just wondering how do I porting the supercharger and throttle body?

Can any work shop do it? Do I need special tools?

So if I go catless with dual pulley is reasonable safe?

With ecu home tune, is it fairly easy like plug in play?

Sorry I. M quit new to this tuning, never tuned an audi before.

And another important question, how will the car reliability suffer? Obviously I do not have any wrantty left, does any one have any long term reliability test on stage 2? the engine and transmission all cope with the upgrade ok? Thanks

[Rodizzle]

Can any work shop do it? Do I need special tools?

So if I go catless with dual pulley is reasonable safe?

With ecu home tune, is it fairly easy like plug in play?

[/QUOTE]

Catless is the safest , less restriction of exhaust flow .

Yes plug and play EPL I hear has the best customer service


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[mike0819]

1. You won't really get gain from intake, you will hear the supercharger more though.

2. doing anything to the exhaust is very very minimal gains. I was just trying to convey that you need to go catless if you plan to go dual pulley, because your cats will melt. Changing the cats is a TON of work, I would definitely just go single pulley (stage 2) first, and if you want more power, do that stuff later.

3. Dual pulley gives a decent gain in power, and quite a bit more low end torque. Like I said before, you should go single pulley first, you aren't really going to save money by doing them at the same time, there isn't any overlap in the labor for the lower and upper pulleys.

4. Honestly don't know, I had mine replaced at 80k and they hadn't failed before that.

5. Here is their thread. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=epl+source You can do all the tuning yourself, you don't have to take it anywhere. And yes, TCU tune will decrease shift times. Definitely worth the money.

6. Not sure, bought the car with it, but it's a very popular upgrade. They're made by 034, you can search the forums for reviews.

7.

8. They don't recommend going over 255 on 8.5 inch wheels. I have 255/35/19 pilot super sports, traction is sufficient at stage 3

9. I have personally found that the stock system with a sub is more than adequate. I really enjoy my setup.

10. Don't know, bought the car with it, but I don't think it's too hard. https://manuals.goapr.com/Engine_Har...si_40t_CPS.pdf

About the labor, you will be able to do everything EXCEPT changing the cats with ease. You may need some special tools for removing the supercharger pulleys, but those are pretty inexpensive. Contact EPL and they can tell you exactly what you should buy.

Hi thanks for reply. I may leave the decat pipe for later as you advised. My budget is not up for a full exhaust, if I decat pipe alone will it sound quit drone and nasty loud? That is not what I want, plus quit a bit labour to it.

So if I decide to go for the single pulley upgrade, I do not need change the exhaust? What size I should go for?

As for porting the throttle body, can I do it with the single pulley change? Is there any specific requirement to do the porting? Like size polish etc

With single pulley upgrade can I run stage 2 tune? What power level I. M looking at? 0 to 100 km over stock time?

[Morritse]

Hi thanks for reply. I may leave the decat pipe for later as you advised. My budget is not up for a full exhaust, if I decat pipe alone will it sound quit drone and nasty loud? That is not what I want, plus quit a bit labour to it.

So if I decide to go for the single pulley upgrade, I do not need change the exhaust? What size I should go for?

As for porting the throttle body, can I do it with the single pulley change? Is there any specific requirement to do the porting? Like size polish etc

With single pulley upgrade can I run stage 2 tune? What power level I. M looking at? 0 to 100 km over stock time?

you don't need to do anything to the exhaust for stage 2 tune. The cheapest way to get a little more sound is a res delete. Stage 2 cars run about 3.8 - 4.0s 0-100. if you go with EPL they will supply you with the pulley as well.

[tar]

Do a crank pulley not charger
Easier to install and gets rid of a failure prone part.
179mm is about same ratio as a charger pulley.

[mike0819]

Do a crank pulley not charger
Easier to install and gets rid of a failure prone part.
179mm is about same ratio as a charger pulley.

Hi thanks do you have a link I can order the pulley kit?

And do you have any experience porting the throttle body? I. M plan also get that done

[mike0819]

Do a crank pulley not charger
Easier to install and gets rid of a failure prone part.
179mm is about same ratio as a charger pulley.

And with your Swaybar set up, do you set the front hard rear soft to get help understerring? Does it help a lot with the short shifters? Is it more of for better gear change?

[MSq5]

Hi thanks do you have a link I can order the pulley kit?

And do you have any experience porting the throttle body? I. M plan also get that done

Here is EPL's thread and contact info. Chris from EPL posts regularly with info and sales for Stage 1, Stage 2 single pulley, dual pulley and other tunes for the 3.0 T engine. They are very responsive to those of us in the States. This is Internet based tune at home soffware with MS Windows tablet or laptop. You need an approved cable and can purchase pulleys from them in a package or get your pulley elsewhere.

This is a 15 page thread. This link is to the last page, but you may want to back up and read more of it. There are also EPL user threads here too

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...p-more!/page15

I recommend you go straight to Stage 2 single pulley to begin. 179-183mm crank pulley. That is the most bang for the buck. Should get you to about 420-430 crank horsepower. I started with Stage 1 and then went to Stage 2. Stage 2 has so much more low end torque.

[Bartlett]

Hi thanks for the reply, yes I. M base in Auckland, just wondering how do I porting the supercharger and throttle body?

Can any work shop do it? Do I need special tools?

You will be paying a shop to do this. Not any shop can do it. They must have experience porting superchargers. I'm sure there is at least 1 shop in Auckland that can do it. Otherwise, shipping will cost you $$$$

So if I go catless with dual pulley is reasonable safe?

No cats with dual pulley = no cat issues and a bit of extra HP. It doesn't really provide any other benefits. I'd say stick with your OEM cats, BUT know that they are likely to fail at some point. So, just be ready for that. I might even advise high flow cats like GESi. But, don't bother replacing them right now. Just have a plan in place for when they fail.

With ecu home tune, is it fairly easy like plug in play?

Yes, it is very simple

Sorry I. M quit new to this tuning, never tuned an audi before.

And another important question, how will the car reliability suffer? Obviously I do not have any wrantty left, does any one have any long term reliability test on stage 2? the engine and transmission all cope with the upgrade ok? Thanks

If you have proper cooling, a tune that doesn't try to push the limits too much, do all of your necessary maintenance, don't turn the car off right away after driving hard, and you don't use launch control, the reliability should be really solid, aside from the mechatronics. But, just know that reliability will almost always decrease with more power/heat. We are pushing the internals closer to their limits, and while we're doing it fairly safely, it will never be as reliable as a stock car. The question is, will the reliability be of concern throughout ownership? And the answer is, under normal circumstances, probably not.

Hi thanks for reply. I may leave the decat pipe for later as you advised. My budget is not up for a full exhaust, if I decat pipe alone will it sound quit drone and nasty loud? That is not what I want, plus quit a bit labour to it.

Don't bother with any exhaust setup unless you want to experiment or pay at least $600 for parts and labor (welding with custom setups).

So if I decide to go for the single pulley upgrade, I do not need change the exhaust? What size I should go for?

No exhaust changing is necessary. The size is up to you. People may recommend 179mm, but you're not going to get the power you want from that. What matters is pulley ratio. You want at least a 2.96 or so for the power numbers you've mentioned.

As for porting the throttle body, can I do it with the single pulley change? Is there any specific requirement to do the porting? Like size polish etc

A reputable shop should know exactly what to do with porting the supercharger and throttle body. Your tune will be able to accommodate this mod, but maybe not to 100% potential. You may need to speak with your tuner. Don't worry about the relationship between pulley sizes and porting.

With single pulley upgrade can I run stage 2 tune? What power level I. M looking at? 0 to 100 km over stock time?

Yes, you run a Stage 2 tune with the pulley upgrade. At sea level, basically where you're at, you should see 0-60 in mid-to-high 3 seconds in ideal conditions with common stage 2 setups.

See above

[mike0819]

See above

Hi thanks mate, just one thing I not sure, what crank pulley size u recommend best for power gain and reliability without touch the exhaust?

For reliability is it good idea to decat?

[Morritse]

Hi thanks mate, just one thing I not sure, what crank pulley size u recommend best for power gain and reliability without touch the exhaust?

For reliability is it good idea to decat?

On single pulley tunes (either one) you don't really need to decat. It's only when your pulley ratios start to get over 3 that you should. You should make sure your tuner will do a tune for just the crank pulley though, as they aren't that popular. I would stick to something within 179-187mm

[Bartlett]

Hi thanks mate, just one thing I not sure, what crank pulley size u recommend best for power gain and reliability without touch the exhaust?

For reliability is it good idea to decat?

A 183mm is probably the best bet. If you go dual-pulley, it doesn't take you concerningly high. But, if you stay single pulley, it gives you a good boost over stock.

No need to decat for reliability. Only think about cats when they fail. But, make sure you have a plan.

[Morritse]

A 183mm is probably the best bet. If you go dual-pulley, it doesn't take you concerningly high. But, if you stay single pulley, it gives you a good boost over stock.

No need to decat for reliability. Only think about cats when they fail. But, make sure you have a plan.

+1

[mike0819]

[QUOTE=Bartlett;13125590]A 183mm is probably the best bet. If you go dual-pulley, it doesn't take you concerningly high. But, if you stay single pulley, it gives you a good boost over stock.

No need to decat for reliability. Only think about cats when they fail. But, make sure you have a plan.[/QUOTE

Hi mate just ask about the cat convertor, I read some people gutted their cat convertor, is that an easier option than replacing pipe? With gutting the cat converter will never have trouble again?

I. M still deciding to do the single or dual pulley set up? Would it be a huge difference with torque and power? Thanks

[mike0819]

A 183mm is probably the best bet. If you go dual-pulley, it doesn't take you concerningly high. But, if you stay single pulley, it gives you a good boost over stock.

No need to decat for reliability. Only think about cats when they fail. But, make sure you have a plan.

Hi do you have a link I can order the 183mm pulley kit? So if I only gonna change single pulley, do I buy the crank pulley or the charger pulley? I. M bit confused, which give the best result and easy install?

[Morritse]

Hi do you have a link I can order the 183mm pulley kit? So if I only gonna change single pulley, do I buy the crank pulley or the charger pulley? I. M bit confused, which give the best result and easy install?

Ask your tuner

[Bartlett]

A 183mm is probably the best bet. If you go dual-pulley, it doesn't take you concerningly high. But, if you stay single pulley, it gives you a good boost over stock.

No need to decat for reliability. Only think about cats when they fail. But, make sure you have a plan.[/QUOTE

Hi mate just ask about the cat convertor, I read some people gutted their cat convertor, is that an easier option than replacing pipe? With gutting the cat converter will never have trouble again?

I. M still deciding to do the single or dual pulley set up? Would it be a huge difference with torque and power? Thanks

Say you go 183mm. That's a 2.89 ratio.

If you install the CTS pulley, that takes you to 3.21.

Stock is 2.56.

The jump from stock to 2.89 will be about as drastic as the jump from 2.89 to 3.21. It's probably ~30 WHP.

The pulley ratio = Crank diameter / slave diameter.

And gutting the converter is no easier than replacing it. I'm not sure if that's a better method.

[MSq5]

Hi do you have a link I can order the 183mm pulley kit? So if I only gonna change single pulley, do I buy the crank pulley or the charger pulley? I. M bit confused, which give the best result and easy install?

The pulley makes no power without the tune to go with it. Your stock tune would just bleed off the extra boost. Harmless, but wasted.

Select your tuner. I went with EPL, but there are about 5-6 other good reputable choices. I don't know which ones service NZ. EPL is entirely flash at home by MS Windows laptop or tablet and Internet cloud-based map upload and download. So, they can probably tune you anywhere.

Your tuner will recommend a pulley, either 179mm or 183mm for the crank pulley or 57mm for the S/C pulley for basic Stage 2. You'll get about a 2.80:1 ratio with that single pulley set up. Go higher and you will need to improve cooling for the supercharger as the higher rpm generates a lot of heat.

People disagree on which is easier, crank pulley or S/C pulley.

I went with one piece crank pulley to get stage 2 ratio and to ditch the OEM pulley which is failure prone.

I was able to install it from below without putting the car in service position. Some blocks have a casting that protrudes and interferes with the pulley and belt on oversized crank pulleys. If you have that tab, you grind or saw it back out of the way. Install time is about 1- 2 hours first time. I can now do it in about 30-45 minutes.

S/C pulley install requires service position, a special puller and an oven to heat it up to at least 350-400 degrees, as it is an interference fit.

There are threads here with step-by-step instructions and tools needed for both installs.

BTW, NZ is a fantastic place. Vacationed on South Island, Queenstown area, a few years back. Spectacular landscape and pinot noir. Enjoyed the stay. Hope to get back someday.

[mike0819]

The pulley makes no power without the tune to go with it. Your stock tune would just bleed off the extra boost. Harmless, but wasted.

Select your tuner. I went with EPL, but there are about 5-6 other good reputable choices. I don't know which ones service NZ. EPL is entirely flash at home by MS Windows laptop or tablet and Internet cloud-based map upload and download. So, they can probably tune you anywhere.

Your tuner will recommend a pulley, either 179mm or 183mm for the crank pulley or 57mm for the S/C pulley for basic Stage 2. You'll get about a 2.80:1 ratio with that single pulley set up. Go higher and you will need to improve cooling for the supercharger as the higher rpm generates a lot of heat.

People disagree on which is easier, crank pulley or S/C pulley.

I went with one piece crank pulley to get stage 2 ratio and to ditch the OEM pulley which is failure prone.

I was able to install it from below without putting the car in service position. Some blocks have a casting that protrudes and interferes with the pulley and belt on oversized crank pulleys. If you have that tab, you grind or saw it back out of the way. Install time is about 1- 2 hours first time. I can now do it in about 30-45 minutes.

S/C pulley install requires service position, a special puller and an oven to heat it up to at least 350-400 degrees, as it is an interference fit.

There are threads here with step-by-step instructions and tools needed for both installs.

BTW, NZ is a fantastic place. Vacationed on South Island, Queenstown area, a few years back. Spectacular landscape and pinot noir. Enjoyed the stay. Hope to get back someday.

U welcome to visit any time mate, we got good wide road to drive.

Just still deciding do I go for the single or dual pulley set up? For dual pulley it definitely bring out more power right? But I just need to remove my cat converter?

What is the con of decat my exhaust, smell and noise? My budget Don. T support me for a full exhaust yet, do you recommend it?

Any other benift with the dual pulley over single? Like low end response and throttle?

It I go dual pulley what company you recommend? Size to buy?

[mike0819]

1. You won't really get gain from intake, you will hear the supercharger more though.

2. doing anything to the exhaust is very very minimal gains. I was just trying to convey that you need to go catless if you plan to go dual pulley, because your cats will melt. Changing the cats is a TON of work, I would definitely just go single pulley (stage 2) first, and if you want more power, do that stuff later.

3. Dual pulley gives a decent gain in power, and quite a bit more low end torque. Like I said before, you should go single pulley first, you aren't really going to save money by doing them at the same time, there isn't any overlap in the labor for the lower and upper pulleys.

4. Honestly don't know, I had mine replaced at 80k and they hadn't failed before that.

5. Here is their thread. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=epl+source You can do all the tuning yourself, you don't have to take it anywhere. And yes, TCU tune will decrease shift times. Definitely worth the money.

6. Not sure, bought the car with it, but it's a very popular upgrade. They're made by 034, you can search the forums for reviews.

7.

8. They don't recommend going over 255 on 8.5 inch wheels. I have 255/35/19 pilot super sports, traction is sufficient at stage 3

9. I have personally found that the stock system with a sub is more than adequate. I really enjoy my setup.

10. Don't know, bought the car with it, but I don't think it's too hard. https://manuals.goapr.com/Engine_Har...si_40t_CPS.pdf

About the labor, you will be able to do everything EXCEPT changing the cats with ease. You may need some special tools for removing the supercharger pulleys, but those are pretty inexpensive. Contact EPL and they can tell you exactly what you should buy.

Hi mate what brand of radiator u recommend for the 3.0 tfsi? Best bang for bucks, 2012 a7

[mike0819]

The pulley makes no power without the tune to go with it. Your stock tune would just bleed off the extra boost. Harmless, but wasted.

Select your tuner. I went with EPL, but there are about 5-6 other good reputable choices. I don't know which ones service NZ. EPL is entirely flash at home by MS Windows laptop or tablet and Internet cloud-based map upload and download. So, they can probably tune you anywhere.

Your tuner will recommend a pulley, either 179mm or 183mm for the crank pulley or 57mm for the S/C pulley for basic Stage 2. You'll get about a 2.80:1 ratio with that single pulley set up. Go higher and you will need to improve cooling for the supercharger as the higher rpm generates a lot of heat.

People disagree on which is easier, crank pulley or S/C pulley.

I went with one piece crank pulley to get stage 2 ratio and to ditch the OEM pulley which is failure prone.

I was able to install it from below without putting the car in service position. Some blocks have a casting that protrudes and interferes with the pulley and belt on oversized crank pulleys. If you have that tab, you grind or saw it back out of the way. Install time is about 1- 2 hours first time. I can now do it in about 30-45 minutes.

S/C pulley install requires service position, a special puller and an oven to heat it up to at least 350-400 degrees, as it is an interference fit.

There are threads here with step-by-step instructions and tools needed for both installs.

BTW, NZ is a fantastic place. Vacationed on South Island, Queenstown area, a few years back. Spectacular landscape and pinot noir. Enjoyed the stay. Hope to get back someday.

Hi mate what brand of radiator cooler u recommend? And for Swaybar set up, set front stiff rear soft to reduce understerring?

[MSq5]

Hi mate what brand of radiator cooler u recommend? And for Swaybar set up, set front stiff rear soft to reduce understerring?

With my single pulley tune (179mm crank pulley and EPL Stage 2), I'm still on stock cooling. That tune produces a decent power of about 420 crank hp while still protecting the cats and not requiring a cooling upgrade. I may upgrade cooling soon, but not mandatory at my level. My suspension is stock.

May I offer a modest suggestion? Please slow down. It seems like you may be trying to do too much all at once. Maybe more clearly define one or two upgrades at a time. Complete them, evaluate the results, make sure they work as intended before moving on. Just a thought.

[mike0819]

1. You won't really get gain from intake, you will hear the supercharger more though.

2. doing anything to the exhaust is very very minimal gains. I was just trying to convey that you need to go catless if you plan to go dual pulley, because your cats will melt. Changing the cats is a TON of work, I would definitely just go single pulley (stage 2) first, and if you want more power, do that stuff later.

3. Dual pulley gives a decent gain in power, and quite a bit more low end torque. Like I said before, you should go single pulley first, you aren't really going to save money by doing them at the same time, there isn't any overlap in the labor for the lower and upper pulleys.

4. Honestly don't know, I had mine replaced at 80k and they hadn't failed before that.

5. Here is their thread. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=epl+source You can do all the tuning yourself, you don't have to take it anywhere. And yes, TCU tune will decrease shift times. Definitely worth the money.

6. Not sure, bought the car with it, but it's a very popular upgrade. They're made by 034, you can search the forums for reviews.

7.

8. They don't recommend going over 255 on 8.5 inch wheels. I have 255/35/19 pilot super sports, traction is sufficient at stage 3

9. I have personally found that the stock system with a sub is more than adequate. I really enjoy my setup.

10. Don't know, bought the car with it, but I don't think it's too hard. https://manuals.goapr.com/Engine_Har...si_40t_CPS.pdf

About the labor, you will be able to do everything EXCEPT changing the cats with ease. You may need some special tools for removing the supercharger pulleys, but those are pretty inexpensive. Contact EPL and they can tell you exactly what you should buy.

Hi mate I. M running single pulley set up next week, I have the chance to gutted my cat converter, but that is like lot extra money.

With single pulley set up, is it a must to remove the cat or just do it for peace of mind. I have mechanical insurance, can always get them done later if they fail, but not sure if it. S a good idea to remove them now.

Is this a must for single pulley set up? They guarantee fail or it may, just take chances