Fluid extractor for oil changes?

[ericw.]

Hadn't gotten any traction in the "dumb questions" thread so figured I'd create a new one.

Is there any reason a fluid extractor wouldn't work for oil changes on the 4.0TT?

I know some makes/models have screens at the bottom of the tube where the dip stick would go, or for whatever reason you can't extract all the oil through the dip stick tube. Anyone with experience who does their own oil changes and could chime in?

(I rather do general maintenance and repairs myself, combination of being too lazy to deal with a new shop since I'm moving and being the control freak I am).

Thanks in advance!

[VR6Bomber]

I can't speak definitively for 4.0t, however I would be surprised if any car had any obstruction in the dipstick tube. The dipstick needs to get to the bottom of the oil pan right?

The Motive Power Extractor has been one of the best investments I've made as far as tools go. It works, I've had it for years.
It make for clean driveways if you do your own fluid changes. No more removing the under-pan, breaking plastic snap connectors and all that bs.

The Motive company was pretty good about sending me a replacement part on the pump that I broke. No questions asked they sent a replacement. I recommend Motive products, hands down.

they also have a good one man brake bleeder product too.

[p3u]

No reason to not use whatsoever...unless you love opening and closing your drain plug.

First time you use it you'll wonder why you didn't get one sooner.

[MP4.2+6.0]

Great way to have a more screwed up, under maintained Audi longest term, maybe as a reply you didn't expect. The blow and go of gardening where cosmetically it may seem good, but misses can be more dramatic.

Put aside that on a 4.0T--the subforum we are on after all--the oil filter is...on the bottom. Let's see, pump it out and then? No filter change? Do not pass go, and go directly to "Boom goes the turbo" thread. Or, pump it out, clean the extractor and then take the belly pan off to get the filter out and then clean the pan. Hmmm, that sure saved time (not).

More than that though, the three best diagnostics on an Audi are 1. the human driver who knows something about cars 3. VCDS and 3. belly pan. ##1 and 3 also connect. #3 also relates to an obscure principle called gravity. As in, fluids run downhill. Thus, pull pan. Yes, the mundane drain the oil and change the filter. But relative to pump and run (sans filter...), what you don't see can hurt you. The whitish pink stain, that would be the early sign of a water leak. The standard oil, oil leak of course. Don't pull it and have the prior two, back to "boom goes the turbo" thread perhaps. Sure, for the biggies it probably overflows the belly pan anyway, but then it is probably a (tow) hook and go, and something perhaps catchable a long time before. Meantime, heavy brown, blown motor mount. Again, probably when not if on a torquey motor. Leak far back more like machine oil, tranny. Leak farther forward and again light machine oil and pre recent year Audis, likely P/S. Heavier and smelly, front diff. Oh, and while under there as they age (when not if), cracked open CV joint boot, usually outer at first. Catch early and it's a new boot. Wait for the clicking and its a new axle/joint.

Later part was just some reality check. I've been doing it for 40 years, and can't count on the whole family's fingers and toes how much stuff I have caught. Including things that I get fixed under warranty like D3 radiator, other water leaks (various), blown torque mount, leaking valve cover gaskets (several), deteriorating sway bar links (last two Audi's), etc.

First part about where the filter is answers question for a 4.0T by itself. Some Audi motors have filter up top where you can get away with this, but not a 4.0T. Not sure prior respondents actually own one...

[ericw.]

I can't speak definitively for 4.0t, however I would be surprised if any car had any obstruction in the dipstick tube. The dipstick needs to get to the bottom of the oil pan right?

The Motive Power Extractor has been one of the best investments I've made as far as tools go. It works, I've had it for years.
It make for clean driveways if you do your own fluid changes. No more removing the under-pan, breaking plastic snap connectors and all that bs.

The Motive company was pretty good about sending me a replacement part on the pump that I broke. No questions asked they sent a replacement. I recommend Motive products, hands down.

they also have a good one man brake bleeder product too.

Thanks for the advice! Technically the dip stick tube only needs to measure the top 1 qt of oil. I've heard of some cars where they won't reach the oil pan.

No reason to not use whatsoever...unless you love opening and closing your drain plug.

First time you use it you'll wonder why you didn't get one sooner.

Awesome! I usually drop the car at my friend's shop for service and repairs but since I'm moving soon, I'd rather limit my shop and dealer visits to on an "as needed" basis.

Great way to have a more screwed up, under maintained Audi longest term, maybe as a reply you didn't expect. The blow and go of gardening where cosmetically it may seem good, but misses can be more dramatic.

Put aside that on a 4.0T--the subforum we are on after all--the oil filter is...on the bottom. Let's see, pump it out and then? No filter change? Do not pass go, and go directly to "Boom goes the turbo" thread. Or, pump it out, clean the extractor and then take the belly pan off to get the filter out and then clean the pan. Hmmm, that sure saved time (not).

More than that though, the three best diagnostics on an Audi are 1. the human driver who knows something about cars 3. VCDS and 3. belly pan. ##1 and 3 also connect. #3 also relates to an obscure principle called gravity. As in, fluids run downhill. Thus, pull pan. Yes, the mundane drain the oil and change the filter. But relative to pump and run (sans filter...), what you don't see can hurt you. The whitish pink stain, that would be the early sign of a water leak. The standard oil, oil leak of course. Don't pull it and have the prior two, back to "boom goes the turbo" thread perhaps. Sure, for the biggies it probably overflows the belly pan anyway, but then it is probably a (tow) hook and go, and something perhaps catchable a long time before. Meantime, heavy brown, blown motor mount. Again, probably when not if on a torquey motor. Leak far back more like machine oil, tranny. Leak farther forward and again light machine oil and pre recent year Audis, likely P/S. Heavier and smelly, front diff. Oh, and while under there as they age (when not if), cracked open CV joint boot, usually outer at first. Catch early and it's a new boot. Wait for the clicking and its a new axle/joint.

Later part was just some reality check. I've been doing it for 40 years, and can't count on the whole family's fingers and toes how much stuff I have caught. Including things that I get fixed under warranty like D3 radiator, other water leaks (various), blown torque mount, leaking valve cover gaskets (several), deteriorating sway bar links (last two Audi's), etc.

First part about where the filter is answers question for a 4.0T by itself. Some Audi motors have filter up top where you can get away with this, but not a 4.0T. Not sure prior respondents actually own one...

LOL Drain plugs are plastic in newer Audi, hence the desire to pump the fluid.
Keep going to the shop if that's what you prefer but that wasn't my question.

[ericw.]

Really?? Good luck with that. The oil drain plug is a corrosion resistant steel, and is on the bottom of the oil pan. Maybe on a toy Audi its plastic, but not on a real one. I DIY, and so know it first person. If you don't know that, you perhaps should be taking it to the shop... There is also the small (also metal) plug in the center of the bottom of the plastic oil filter canister, which is again...still on the bottom of the motor. Thus the belly pan has to come off; as in I don't think you really are understanding the relevant question specific to a 4.0T. And if you are trying to say you propose not to take off the plastic oil canister that holds the filter, just subscribe now to the boom goes the turbo thread. Only costs $10 grand a round to play, but hey that's the logical conclusion of pump and run on a 4.0T, either that or complete waste of time since both belly pan and filter canister both come off in any rational 4.0T oil AND filter change.

You can find your way out of this post now, thanks.

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[tenspeed]

I have a MityVac 7201. If you're buying an extractor, check it out. It holds 8 quarts so you don't have to stop half way to empty it. Works better when the oil is slightly warm.

I use it on cars, my ATV and even sucked water out of the Maytag when a sock jammed the pump.

[ericw.]

I have a MityVac 7201. If you're buying an extractor, check it out. It holds 8 quarts so you don't have to stop half way to empty it. Works better when the oil is slightly warm.

I use it on cars, my ATV and even sucked water out of the Maytag when a sock jammed the pump.

That's actually the exact one I have in my amazon cart. Just waiting to close the deal on the new house so I have a garage to use it in. lol

[p3u]

That's actually the exact one I have in my amazon cart. Just waiting to close the deal on the new house so I have a garage to use it in. lol

I own the same unit as well. You chose wisely

[wwhan]

I own the same unit as well. You chose wisely

I have the same one. Works well.

Definitely warm up the oil first.

[VR6Bomber]

Definitely warm up the oil before using an extractor. Will take forever with cold oil. Painfully slow...

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[p3u]

I love this thing. 8 min to drain from the moment I grabbed the dip stick. Do it!

[jinetics]

Let's face it... the oil filter is at the bottom... An oil change without the filter replacement does not fly by me. Its the most basic maintenance that could be done yet the most essential for any car period. I have used the extractor on my GT4 and GTR for quick on the track changes which was very useful.

[p3u]

Let's face it... the oil filter is at the bottom... An oil change without the filter replacement does not fly by me. Its the most basic maintenance that could be done yet the most essential for any car period. I have used the extractor on my GT4 and GTR for quick on the track changes which was very useful.

Not a single person said anything about not changing the oil filter in conjunction with using the fluid extractor...

[ericw.]

Not a single person said anything about not changing the oil filter in conjunction with using the fluid extractor...

lol exactly. these people just want to argue irrelevant points to feed their ego. Let them show their colors and don't even bother correcting them.

I've got a massive amazon cart built up but waiting to click that check out button til I can ship it all to my new address. Less stuff to move. lol

[MP4.2+6.0]

lol exactly. these people just want to argue irrelevant points to feed their ego. Let them show their colors and don't even bother correcting them.
...

Please stick to the discussion and avoid the personal attacks.

Filter on the bottom of a 4.0T so extractor just remains extra work during oil and filter changes. Those facts aren't going to change. Stripping a metal (not plastic...per reply 5) drain plug on a meal pan seems like a really big stretch. The filter cartridge inside the housing makes for a plenty big mess--much bigger than a spin on for those who have done the two. Also much bitter than the oil on hand from plug pull that takes approx one paper towel to wipe off.

Only practical reason I can see to use one specific to the filter underneath reality of the 4.0T is an in between oil change with no filter cartridge change. I have never bee na fan of that personally, but folks can do what they want within the manufacturer's 10K recommended interval.

[ericw.]

Please stick to the discussion and avoid the personal attacks.

Filter on the bottom of a 4.0T so extractor just remains extra work during oil and filter changes. Those facts aren't going to change. Stripping a metal (not plastic...per reply 5) drain plug on a meal pan seems like a really big stretch. The filter cartridge inside the housing makes for a plenty big mess--much bigger than a spin on for those who have done the two. Also much bitter than the oil on hand from plug pull that takes approx one paper towel to wipe off.

Only practical reason I can see to use one specific to the filter underneath reality of the 4.0T is an in between oil change with no filter cartridge change. I have never bee na fan of that personally, but folks can do what they want within the manufacturer's 10K recommended interval.

Personal attacks? Lol

Original question was asking whether there was a physical blocker to me using the extractor, not if I should use one or not.

This all comes down to having 2 ways to do the same job. You have your preference and I have mine.

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[15 Phantom S6]

Stripping a metal (not plastic...per reply 5) drain plug on a meal pan seems like a really big stretch. T

Not a stretch at all. Not sure about the S6 since I haven't pulled the plug myself yet due to Audicare, but I've had previous Audi's and all of them came with a steel drain plug and aluminum oil pan. I've had the dealer strip the plug and have to replace the pan before as well.. Aluminum is soft and the steel threads of the drain bolt can easily wreck the aluminum threads in the oil pan if over tightened..

[15 Phantom S6]

Not sure why anyone would oppose using the extractor, heck they change the oil at the dealership using one. It only makes sense since it eliminates the dealer having to change the drain plug/gasket and there is no risk of stripping the threads in the oil pan.. I use the extractor to change oil between scheduled maintenance intervals at the dealer (Audicare) and I don't replace the filter, so 15 mins max and done..

[car]

Not sure why anyone would oppose using the extractor, heck they change the oil at the dealership using one. It only makes sense since it eliminates the dealer having to change the drain plug/gasket and there is no risk of stripping the threads in the oil pan.. I use the extractor to change oil between scheduled maintenance intervals at the dealer (Audicare) and I don't replace the filter, so 15 mins max and done..

I do the same thing with a cheap oil extractor, link below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

20180329_193208.jpg

[s4majid]

I am curious, if you have to get under the car to replace the filter, what's the real benefit of using the fluid extractor?

[ericw.]

I am curious, if you have to get under the car to replace the filter, what's the real benefit of using the fluid extractor?

No risk of stripping threads
No need to change the drain plug gasket or o-ring
Only getting under the car once (Not getting under the car at all in Phantom's situation above, doing mid-interval oil changes and not filter)
I work from home so I don't even need to get my hands dirty. I can go pump oil out between conference calls and come back later to finish the job.
I have more than 1 car where this would be useful
Last but not least, because we want to

[s4majid]

No risk of stripping threads
No need to change the drain plug gasket or o-ring
Only getting under the car once (Not getting under the car at all in Phantom's situation above, doing mid-interval oil changes and not filter)
I work from home so I don't even need to get my hands dirty. I can go pump oil out between conference calls and come back later to finish the job.
I have more than 1 car where this would be useful
Last but not least, because we want to

If you do your oil changes like this, would you recommend still doing a "regular" oil change every so often to get stuff that the fluid extractor might not pick up? Or maybe that doesn't matter because the oil pickup has a screen that probably prevents anything like that getting into the system anyways?

I almost bought a fluid extractor to do my S4 oil changes since everything was on top. I only did one oil change and did it from underneath. Then I bought the S6 and realized that the filter was on the bottom so I never even thought about doing it with an extractor.

[ericw.]

If you do your oil changes like this, would you recommend still doing a "regular" oil change every so often to get stuff that the fluid extractor might not pick up? Or maybe that doesn't matter because the oil pickup has a screen that probably prevents anything like that getting into the system anyways?

I almost bought a fluid extractor to do my S4 oil changes since everything was on top. I only did one oil change and did it from underneath. Then I bought the S6 and realized that the filter was on the bottom so I never even thought about doing it with an extractor.

The people in my circle say it's a myth that the fluid extractor wouldn't pick up shavings, and you can still strain the oil before draining the oil from the extractor into it's final disposal container. I'll probably still pull the drain plug once in a while if i have any suspicions. If you're like me, you're hyper sensitive to every noise your car makes.. or even the cars next to you at a stop light. lol

[BigTex]

I like the idea of using the extractor. However, as the s6 doesn’t have a dipstick, where would I insert the tube?


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[DaGermansRS7]

I like the idea of using the extractor. However, as the s6 doesn’t have a dipstick, where would I insert the tube?


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There is just a plug where the dipstick normally goes. Remove the plug and insert the extractor. Problem solved!!


-DaGerman

[MDFeeny]

I'm not sure if there is a physical reason for not using an oil extractor, but ElsaWin says specifically not to use the extractor, so I assume Audi has a good reason for it.

[MadMaxD]

I know that the dealer specifically does not use an extractor on the 4.0, no idea why.

[ericw.]

Perfect for the wife's commuter. Lol i never touched the ground.


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