Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 03 2017
    AZ Member #
    392382
    My Garage
    2008 Audi A6 3.2
    Location
    Lehi/Utah

    Brake Vacuum Pump Replacement

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Does anyone have good instructions/video's for replacing the Brake Vacuum Pump on a 2008 A6 3.2?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    -Remove front engine cover thing
    -Break off the OE clamp on the vac hose coming out the top of the pump
    -Pull off the hose (it's just a barb fitting so it will pull off with some TLC)
    - Put some rags under the pump/ over the alternator to soak up the engine oil that will come out when the pump is pulled off
    -Skip the 3 front cover plate bolts. These are irrelevant for mounting the pump (as I learned my first time removing it), and feel around for 3 Torx bolts (do not recall the size, T30/35/40, one of those IIRC). I think you can SEE the top one, but the lower two you must feel for. If you have your new pump handy you can use that as a reference to finding the bolts on the old one
    - Remove these 3 mounting bolts and you will likely need to pry the old pump off. Make sure you pry it out evenly, a little on one side, then match it on the other side, etc... until you remove it. This pump connects to the end of the camshaft so you do not want to put any unnecessary stress on this end by doing all your prying from one side only
    - now that your old pump is off, NOW before anything, lay it next to your new one face down, and MATCH THE END THAT GOES ON TO THE CAMSHAFT (just spin the pump's mechanism until it matches the alignment of the old one). This is so that when you go to place the new pump, the end is lined up with the camshaft's end so it will make installing much easier.
    - Remove old gasket and clean the mating surface
    - Place the new mounting gasket on the new pump. You can hold it in place with 2 torx bolts until you get these threaded
    - Install is the reverse of removal

    Note- When installing the new pump, it is normal for it to give you resistance when bringing it down on to the camshaft end. As long as you know it's lined up properly, bring it down SLOWLY AND EVENLY with the 3 mounting bolts. It's going to give you resistance, but it should move in as you do it. Remember that camshafts spin at 2x crank speed, so with our redline, the cams spin at 13000rpm, so this pump being attached to it has absolutely no slack. It's a tight fit. However, if you feel you are tightining and it's not moving down/ giving too much resistance, stop and confirm alignment!

    MOST IMPORTANT NOTE- NEVER EVER EVER remove the pump's cover plate. It's a new pump, there's no reason to pull this off. If you break this seal, you may be kissing the pump good bye, so don't. Do it on your old pump if you want to explore its guts, but not on the new pump.

    Good luck! This is quick, shouldn't take you more than 1/2hr is you're focused.

    EDIT- have a new worm-gear clamp ready for when you re-install the vacuum hose back on to the new one
    Last edited by 95blkmax; 05-17-2018 at 04:25 AM. Reason: Forgot about the clamp
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  3. #3
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Apr 14 2011
    AZ Member #
    73939
    Location
    Rutherford, NJ

    the other 2 screws are located under the vacuum hose.

  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 03 2017
    AZ Member #
    392382
    My Garage
    2008 Audi A6 3.2
    Location
    Lehi/Utah

    So my pump is leaking. Does that necessarily mean I need a new pump or just a gasket replacement? Or is it one of those things where if you are taking old pump off, for the price of a new pump you might as well replace it? And the last question is, would you only buy an Audi OEM pump or are NON-OEM parts just as good?

    I also found this video. Seems to be the same as the instructions above: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DntHmDXUxU
    Last edited by backsidedriver; 05-17-2018 at 05:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2013
    AZ Member #
    115504
    Location
    yokohama/kanagawa/japan

    There is a rebuild kit. I just ordered it. See how it works.

    https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/...acuum-pump-kit

    And they have a YouTube video too.

    -tishi

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    Oh that's cool! Please let us know how this works for you.

    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 03 2017
    AZ Member #
    392382
    My Garage
    2008 Audi A6 3.2
    Location
    Lehi/Utah

    Yes let us know when you change it. Are you working on a 08 3.2 FWD car or a different model?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2013
    AZ Member #
    115504
    Location
    yokohama/kanagawa/japan

    It's for 06 C6 3.2l. Looks very simple job according to their video. But it's AUDI so you never know until actually do it.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    I could not wait. I placed an order for that RKX tishi found . I'll give it a try. I figured if it doesn't work, I'm only out $30 and 30mins of my time. I'll report back as well once I install it, and a few days after the fact to follow up on if it fixed my oil leak there or not.

    Thanks again Tishi!
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    109847
    My Garage
    1994 Volvo 850 Turbo
    Location
    Los Angeles

    I used that same rebuild kit a couple months ago. Works great
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
    Dead:
    Griselda, aka Grizzy: 2007 Audi C6 A6 Avant (Quattro, S-Line)

    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

    Need MMI 2G High update info? PM me.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings JPJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 15 2009
    AZ Member #
    41259
    Location
    Middle TN

    I'll have to order this. I know mines bad, and I'm hoping it'd part of my vacuume issue
    Not opening the intake runner flaps
    2006 A6 3.2L Quattro S-Line (got my baby back)

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    So I can say the RKX kit looks top notch!



    You can't go wrong for the price as long as you install the pump correctly (I did not want to threadjack this thread, so I started a different one). My only suggestion would be to go to Audi/ order online the O-ring that goes on the backside of the pump where it enters the head. This kit does not include that o-ring and it would be smart to replace that as you are already in there replacing the metal mounting flange gasket. That's it though! Great kit otherwise. Thanks Tishi for bringing this up

    TIP- 7ft-lb = 84in-lb. I'll give you the conversion since most ft-lb torque wrenches start at 20ft-lb... but you can use an in-lb torque wrench and it's well within its range
    Last edited by 95blkmax; 07-29-2018 at 01:39 PM. Reason: added install tip
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian



Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2018 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.