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Thread: Wheel bearing

  1. #1
    Registered Member Two Rings
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    Wheel bearing

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    Sorry for posting a question that I'm sure has been answered. For some reason, I can't figure out how search works here. Anyway, my passenger side front wheel bearing took a dump today, and I'm going to replace it. The drivers side was replaced a few months ago, but split in half(?) when I tried to take it off. Basically the flange stayed on the spindle. Just wondering what the best way to replace/remove a wheel bearing would be. It's an 02 a4 3.0 6m.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Jun 05 2013
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    I buy a new flange everytime and get it pressed into the new bearing for sake of ease. I use to remove the knuckle completely to pound out my bearings as they are pretty seized. Now I use my brothers home made wheel bearing extractor. Just remove the axel, push it out and then extract. But even still that can take a considerable amount of scary force. Having the flange pre-installed saves down time. Buy an S4 flange that are much cheaper, but about 1lbs heavier.
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2005 A4 3.0 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter
    2003 A4 1.8 CVT -> 5spd quttro swap!

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings john_gonzo's Avatar
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    1. Loosen axle bolt.
    2. Remove wheel.
    3. Spray penerating fluid on bearing bolts (Qty 4, visible behind wheel hub) and around the entire edge of the bearing carrier.
    4. Slide axle inboard slightly by pressing/tapping/pounding on axle bolt head. (This moves outer CV joint away from the four bearing bolts.) Spray more fluid on bearing carrier from inboard side.

    5. Press hub out of bearing using lug bolts. Use old brake pads as spacers between bolts and knuckle.

    6. An inner bearing race will come out with the hub. Cut this off the shaft using a Dremel/grinder with cutoff wheel. Be careful not to cut into the shaft. Also don't damage the metal slinger ring behind the race. That ring stays with the hub.

    7. On the car now, loosen the four bearing bolts.

    8. Remove the bearing carrier from the knuckle by pounding on the bearing bolts from the inboard side. This is usually the worst step. Soak it with fluid, tap it with a hammer to promote penetration, go have lunch.



    Note about search: In your favorite search engine, try starting with "Audi B6 A4 3.0".

  4. #4
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2015
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    NS

    My passenger side came out with a slide hammer. Driver's side was a completely different story and I had to remove the whole upright and take it to a shop where they used air hammer to get it out.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago. I bought this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...017617ecs01~a/ and hammered the old ones out through the back using the 4 bolts you take off there. They wouldn't come out from the front using a slide hammer.
    Brilliant Red '04 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Stage 2.5? | Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    2003 A4. 2018 MB GLA250
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago. I bought this https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...017617ecs01~a/ and hammered the old ones out through the back using the 4 bolts you take off there. They wouldn't come out from the front using a slide hammer.
    This is by far the easiest way to deal with a front wheel bearing replacement Smash the old assembly out and bolt in the new assembly.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings john_gonzo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    I did 3 front wheel bearings about 2 weeks ago...
    Ah, the rare B6 A4 Cinc-tro makes an appearance.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings oaybar007's Avatar
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    How long has that kit been around?! Both my front wheel bearings went in 2011 and 2012 respectively. I believe front right was 112k mileage. Left front was 118k mileage. I paid a shop to do both jobs.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_gonzo View Post
    Ah, the rare B6 A4 Cinc-tro makes an appearance.
    Have 2 B6's in the house I have to do maintenance on

    Quote Originally Posted by oaybar007 View Post
    How long has that kit been around?! Both my front wheel bearings went in 2011 and 2012 respectively. I believe front right was 112k mileage. Left front was 118k mileage. I paid a shop to do both jobs.
    Not sure but ECS & RockAuto are the only ones that have hub + bearing preassembled units available. The RockAuto one is Dorman brand, I didn't feel like dealing with pressing the bearings in/out.
    Brilliant Red '04 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Stage 2.5? | Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
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    Ottawa

    You can buy the bearing and flange separately and almost any shop will press them together in four minutes for 15-20 bucks.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    1999 mustang cobra; 2003 G35 coupe
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    ebay: detroit axle..maybe.

    Pressing are usually $20,,but can go a bit more.
    You still save a bit $.

  12. #12
    Registered Member Two Rings
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    Any advice on a partially stripped 12pt? One of the bolts is almost completely stripped and I have no idea what to do next, aside from replacing the entire knuckle.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings john_gonzo's Avatar
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    Have you pressed the hub out of the bearing? (Use slide hammer or lug bolt method described above.) With the hub out, the back side of the bad bolt is accessible.

    Option 1:
    A. Spray more fluid on it.
    B. Use a flat chisel to put a wedge in the threads of the bolt. Chisel on threads, aimed toward center of bolt like this: O<--
    C. Rotate the bolt using a hammer and chisel in that wedge. Duller chisel is better (pushes instead of cuts). Rotate it clockwise - remember you are viewing the back side.

    Option 2:
    Same method but on the head of the bolt. The farther out on the bolt head you get, the more leverage you'll have to rotate it.

    Option 3:
    Drill it... Remove wheel hub. Drill into end of bolt. Hold the drill square though so it doesn't cut into the knuckle threads.

    Option 4:
    If you have all weekend, every few hours spray it and bash it with a hammer.

    Option 5:
    If available, heating it with an acetylene torch would help break the bonds between bolt and knuckle. Lesser heat sources may help. Still gotta have a way to turn it out.

  14. #14
    Registered Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_gonzo View Post
    Have you pressed the hub out of the bearing? (Use slide hammer or lug bolt method described above.) With the hub out, the back side of the bad bolt is accessible.

    Option 1:
    A. Spray more fluid on it.
    B. Use a flat chisel to put a wedge in the threads of the bolt. Chisel on threads, aimed toward center of bolt like this: O<--
    C. Rotate the bolt using a hammer and chisel in that wedge. Duller chisel is better (pushes instead of cuts). Rotate it clockwise - remember you are viewing the back side.

    Option 2:
    Same method but on the head of the bolt. The farther out on the bolt head you get, the more leverage you'll have to rotate it.

    Option 3:
    Drill it... Remove wheel hub. Drill into end of bolt. Hold the drill square though so it doesn't cut into the knuckle threads.

    Option 4:
    If you have all weekend, every few hours spray it and bash it with a hammer.

    Option 5:
    If available, heating it with an acetylene torch would help break the bonds between bolt and knuckle. Lesser heat sources may help. Still gotta have a way to turn it out.
    I'll start at the top and work my way down. Many thanks!

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    1999 mustang cobra; 2003 G35 coupe
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    Tampa FL

    I ususally drill and use a tap.
    The bolt is large; so a plumbing fixture tap will do better, the kind used to remove seating valve bushings.

    You can get those bolts on ebay.
    I have a full 8 bolt replacement set myself..for the future..

    Also with the wishbone out, you may be able to hold the 12 pt square to turn it out.
    The bolt may have a bit more turn left in it, at the bottom of the socket hole.

    Non-seize the daylight out of those new bolts for the future.
    i used Green grease..though I don't know yet how that will go over time.

  16. #16
    Registered Member Two Rings
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    Is it possible to disconnect the lower control arms/ball joints and pivot the entire thing up so the axle comes out? Or would I have to completely disconnect uppers, lowers, tie rod end, etc?

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    1999 mustang cobra; 2003 G35 coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by mysticjocephus View Post
    Is it possible to disconnect the lower control arms/ball joints and pivot the entire thing up so the axle comes out? Or would I have to completely disconnect uppers, lowers, tie rod end, etc?
    Maybe.
    Most folks turn the wishbone to steer inward and tap the axle out via the wheel lossened nut.
    I use a taped pipe to leverage the wishbone and tap the axle out.

    other posters will chime in..

  18. #18
    Registered Member Two Rings
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    Got the bearing and old hub out. Anyone know where I could get a new hub quickly and fairly cheap?

  19. #19
    Established Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
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    I don't know why you guys are wasting money on new hubs, getting the inner race off the old hub is a 10m job. Hit it with a torch and puller, or zip cut and chisel.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings projectvoltron's Avatar
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    Apr 15 2012
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    B6 Avant 2.7t, 2016 VW Tiguan
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    Grand Junction, CO

    This is what I have had success with in the past

    I do have this wheel bearing kit from ecs. I think you should be able to rent a kit like this from most auto parts store

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...BoCFr4QAvD_BwE

    Step 1:
    Get axle out of the hub

    Step 2:
    Thread bolts through the hub bolt holes into the up. Turn bolt 1/2 turn at a time until the hub/spindle come out with most of the wheel bearing. (if you have an air compressor go to harbor freight and buy the $13 air hammer and it knock the wheel bearing right off the spindle) If you do not have or do not have access to an air compressor you can cut it off with a dremel. Be sure to use caution to not cut intot he spindle.

    Step 3:
    Use the wheel bearing kit to pull the wheel bearing out of the knuckle

    Step 4:
    Clean and emery cloth both of the bearing mating surfaces (inside the knuckle and the outer part of the spindle.

    Step 5:
    Using the wheel bearing cup kit press the bearing onto the hub. Being very liberal with the grease

    Step 6: press the whole assembly into the hub and tighten the 4 bolts. Again with lots of grease

    Step 7: drink a beer and enjoy new wheel bearings
    His: 2005 A4 Avant 2.7t
    Hers: 2016 VW tiguan
    Sold: 2001 noggy b5 s4
    RIP: 2004 B6 s4 sedan

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