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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
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    Jan 11 2018
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    412335
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    2018 A6 Comp, 2017 Q7
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    Chicago Burbs

    Add a fuse for Amplifier Remote-on?

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    Hey guys,

    I have a couple "simple" questions for anyone whose done an amplifier install on a C7. I plan to run a remote-on wire to the fuse box on the passenger side of the trunk, but I don't know what type (ATC, ATO, Mini, etc...) of "add a fuse" I actually need to order? Also, I'm assuming for the remote-on sitting by itself a 5amp fuse would be just fine; is that true?

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    150704
    Location
    Olympia, WA

    Just get an LC2i and you wont need a fuse, it will turn on the amp when it detects a signal. Plus you should be using a line out converter anyways if you want to do it right. Search the forums here for LC2i and you should be able to find a bunch of posts with installs
    2014 S7 Prestige, Stage 1 EPL, Vertini RF1.3 20x10.5, black optics, driver assistance, comfort seats, LED lights, black alcantara headliner, cold weather, carbon fiber inlays

  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    2018 A6 Comp, 2017 Q7
    Location
    Chicago Burbs

    Thanks for the comment.

    I'm actually going to use the remote-on to power an Audio Control amplifier with built-in line converter, Accubass, and POWER... It's like the LC2i, but with power. Cool as heck!! In any event, I'll still need to run a remote-on to the Audio Control unit, else it will be constantly powered, which, with my luck, would lead to a dead battery at the airport, one cold night, in Chicago, blah, blah....


    https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...iers/acm-1300/

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    150704
    Location
    Olympia, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by JWebb_C7_Comp View Post
    Thanks for the comment.

    I'm actually going to use the remote-on to power an Audio Control amplifier with built-in line converter, Accubass, and POWER... It's like the LC2i, but with power. Cool as heck!! In any event, I'll still need to run a remote-on to the Audio Control unit, else it will be constantly powered, which, with my luck, would lead to a dead battery at the airport, one cold night, in Chicago, blah, blah....


    https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...iers/acm-1300/
    You don't need a remote with this unit either, it has their GTO feature which will turn it on and off when it detects a signal.
    2014 S7 Prestige, Stage 1 EPL, Vertini RF1.3 20x10.5, black optics, driver assistance, comfort seats, LED lights, black alcantara headliner, cold weather, carbon fiber inlays

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    150704
    Location
    Olympia, WA

    Also that is a pretty nifty little device
    2014 S7 Prestige, Stage 1 EPL, Vertini RF1.3 20x10.5, black optics, driver assistance, comfort seats, LED lights, black alcantara headliner, cold weather, carbon fiber inlays

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    2018 A6 Comp, 2017 Q7
    Location
    Chicago Burbs

    No kidding; power, ground, speaker, and sub connections... That's it? I really don't need the remote on? I guess I can lock myself in the trunk with a volt meter to see if the AC-1.3000 draws power when the car is "sleeping"... If so, I'll run the remote-on. Thanks for the input!
    How simple; and, relatively inexpensive.

    I'm pairing this with JL TW1-2ohm (10"), and ordering 8" IB JL sub as a back-up. If at first you don't succeed....

    My secret hope is that my wife likes the modest upgrade in my A6, and asks me to do her Q7. Then, I'd transport known good gear to her Q7 and mess with mine again. I purposely skipped on the $$$$ B&O upgrade for my car betting for minimal investment I could have a stereo that is as good or better than that in my old BMW.

    It looks like this will be pretty easily done. Thanks again!

  7. #7
    Established Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Nov 22 2016
    AZ Member #
    386370
    Location
    Olympia, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by JWebb_C7_Comp View Post
    No kidding; power, ground, speaker, and sub connections... That's it? I really don't need the remote on? I guess I can lock myself in the trunk with a volt meter to see if the AC-1.3000 draws power when the car is "sleeping"... If so, I'll run the remote-on. Thanks for the input!
    How simple; and, relatively inexpensive.

    I'm pairing this with JL TW1-2ohm (10"), and ordering 8" IB JL sub as a back-up. If at first you don't succeed....

    My secret hope is that my wife likes the modest upgrade in my A6, and asks me to do her Q7. Then, I'd transport known good gear to her Q7 and mess with mine again. I purposely skipped on the $$$$ B&O upgrade for my car betting for minimal investment I could have a stereo that is as good or better than that in my old BMW.

    It looks like this will be pretty easily done. Thanks again!
    Nice! I agree, as the device is meant to be ‘upstream’ and not receive a separate ‘remote ‘in’ line, the GTO function will serve that purpose. No need to hode in the trunk- just leave the lid open after you power down your car, and watch and wait for the power LED to go out. I’ve had at least one line converter not work right and stay powered on, so worth watching at first


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE intake and touring exhaust| APR downpipes| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2.

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    2018 A6 Comp, 2017 Q7
    Location
    Chicago Burbs

    Quote Originally Posted by OlyS6 View Post
    Nice! I agree, as the device is meant to be ‘upstream’ and not receive a separate ‘remote ‘in’ line, the GTO function will serve that purpose. No need to hode in the trunk- just leave the lid open after you power down your car, and watch and wait for the power LED to go out. I’ve had at least one line converter not work right and stay powered on, so worth watching at first


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks Andre; totally appreciate the confirmation from someone whose been there.


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