P2146 code...

[blakefife]

the car didnt have this error code before head gasket job.

start it back up. P2146. And misfire on cylinders 1 and 4.

I did reinstall the original fuel injectors 120k miles with new seals and rings... bad idea?

I tried reseating all the connectors on that fuel injector harness and still, no difference.

Even cleared the codes with vagcom and still its always misfiring on 1 and 4 with a fuel injector open circuit p2146

And when I start the car up it runs very rough and puffs white smoke coming out the back.... but it doesnt smell sweet like coolant... it smells like burnt alcohol or like... old gas??? I guess the gasoline in the car is probably 4-5 months old.... what should i do to the gas in the tank? I filled it with 93 octane premium.

could two bad fuel injectors cause this smoking or no?

been doing a lot of this lately

also i have a coolant and oil leak at my oil housing and cooler, so i am waiting on the two seals for that job ... few more days.

help?

[Low and Behold]

Not the easiest thing to do, but what if you swapped one of the injectors. That would confirm whether or not one of the injectors is faulty. You swapped coils already, correct?

As far as what to run through the gas tank, I’d say it would be a good time for some BG44k.


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[dalmation53]

To swap injectors is a big job. Remove intake manifold. Swap injectors see codes again. Then confirm which injectors are bad. Then remove intake manifold again and replace injectors. Or the easy way buy 4 new injectors an call it a day.

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[Low and Behold]

So just throw $500 at it and call it a day? I guess I’m the type of person who wants a definitive answer before I start throwing money away. Especially with the amount of work I’ve done.

The car already isn’t running - at least not running properly. It’s not a big job, just a little time consuming.


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[blakefife]

Not the easiest thing to do, but what if you swapped one of the injectors. That would confirm whether or not one of the injectors is faulty. You swapped coils already, correct?

As far as what to run through the gas tank, I’d say it would be a good time for some BG44k.


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yes already swapped coils just for heck of it. no difference.

looks like ill just buy some new injectors from china and take it from there. i cannot believe people pay over $100 per injector its absolutely insane.

on Alibaba, the same injectors are about $25 each plus shipping $50 4-day DHL express. Ill take $150 for knockoffs over $260. I dont care about a logo on the injector.


i was actually surprised... removing the intake manifold to get to injectors can actually be quick if you know what to loosen and what not to loosen.

not too bad.

[Low and Behold]

You should care about a logo. Under these (and most) circumstances that logo means quality and peace of mind.


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[blakefife]

so what am i paying for? injectors? or peace of mind? dont be fooled all the parts are manufactured in China my friend.

[Low and Behold]

Lol. Let us know how it turns out


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[B7S3wannabi]

Have you done a resistance test on the injectors?
You can test at the injector harness plug so you wouldnt need to remove the intake.
Resistance should be between 1 and 4 ohms

Injector 1 - Red/Yellow and Black/Green
Injector 2 - Red/Blue and Green/Black
Injector 3 - Red/White and Gray/Yellow
Injector 4 - Red/Gray and Brown/Gray

Also. My injectors are made in Germany. By the Germans.

[EvolutionArmory]

so what am i paying for? injectors? or peace of mind? dont be fooled all the parts are manufactured in China my friend.

If you spend half as much money for a product that lasts half as long, did you really save money?

If you buy an inferior product and have to do the job twice because the part failed, it costs you more money in the long run.

This generation doesn’t play the long game 😀

[EvolutionArmory]

so what am i paying for? injectors? or peace of mind? dont be fooled all the parts are manufactured in China my friend.

And actually, they are not. Many Audi parts are still made in Germany. A lot are made in Hungary too.

[EvolutionArmory]

To swap injectors is a big job. Remove intake manifold. Swap injectors see codes again. Then confirm which injectors are bad. Then remove intake manifold again and replace injectors. Or the easy way buy 4 new injectors an call it a day.

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And what happens if the injectors weren’t the problem....

We’ve had this discussion about throwing parts at a problem before. And since the chances of 2 injectors taking a dump at the same time is pretty low, not impossible though, this problem is more likely electrical, not mechanical.

I would trace the injector harness back to the ECU before spending a dime on parts. Check wiring, check the ECU relay or fuel relay and then start looking at the individual injectors.

[B7S3wannabi]

And what happens if the injectors weren’t the problem....

We’ve had this discussion about throwing parts at a problem before.

I would trace the injector harness back to the ECU before spending a dime on parts. Check wiring, check the ECU relay or fuel relay and then start looking at the individual injectors.

To clarify there is a harness plug right near the oil filter housing for the injectors. Don't think you'll need to go all the way back to the ECM if you weren't having issues before.
I'm betting one of them got damaged upon removal or installation. The other misfire is probably a result of how the engine is running and the firing order.
Sounds like the injector is shorted and dumping fuel. Seen it a bunch when they fail.


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[EvolutionArmory]

I just meant to start at the injectors and work your way back to the ECU. If there’s a junction closer that has a break in it, even better but I would still want to trace it all the way back to the ECU to make sure it’s uninterrupted all the way back.

[blakefife]

Have you done a resistance test on the injectors?
You can test at the injector harness plug so you wouldnt need to remove the intake.
Resistance should be between 1 and 4 ohms

Injector 1 - Red/Yellow and Black/Green
Injector 2 - Red/Blue and Green/Black
Injector 3 - Red/White and Gray/Yellow
Injector 4 - Red/Gray and Brown/Gray

Also. My injectors are made in Germany. By the Germans.

Thank you for the quick info there. i will go do a resistance test right now... but correct me if im wrong... resistance isnt the tell all test?

and the video they sent me of the injectors from china say "VW AG" printed on them... heres the video they sent me before i ordered: https://drive.google.com/open?id=142...C0u4EsYTtZTQzr


EDIT: Did the resistance test as you described.
Injector 1 - open
Injector 2 - 1.2 ohms
Injector 3 - 1.2 ohms
Injector 4 - 1.1 ohms

how can i test the wiring now? unplug the connector at injector 1 and test the pins on the injector for resistance? my cheapass multimeter doesnt do continuity test, or it doesnt have beeper atleast.... how would i test the wiring harness?

I am an idiot. i found this on like the first page of google and it all makes sense now. its one bad injector causing misfire on 1 and 4 because they have same stroke?

Basic Step #1 First recommended step is to locate which "group" of sensors the manufacturer is referring to. With this information, you can then find the physical location of the injector(s) and their circuits. This may involve removing numerous engine covers and/or components to gain visual access (if possible). Make sure to inspect the harness for broken wires. Any worn-away insulation should be properly repaired with shrink-tube to prevent further and/or future issues.

Basic Step #2 At times, water and/or fluids may get "trapped" in the valleys where the injectors are installed. This increases the odds of the sensor's connectors, among other electrical connections, to corrode at a faster than normal rate. Make sure everything is how it should be and the connectors tabs are properly sealing the connection. Don't hesitate using some electrical contact cleaner to make everything connect and disconnect smoothly, not to mention the increased electrical connectivity within the connections with the use of this product.

Basic Step #3 Verify the integrity of the circuit by following troubleshooting steps provided by your specific vehicle's service manual. One example is to disconnect the supply voltage circuit from the ECM and at the fuel injector, then using your multimeter, determine whether or not the wires are in good working order. One test I like to do to determine quickly if there is an open within a particular wire which would help with code P2146 is to do a "continuity test". Setting your multimeter to RESISTANCE (a.k.a.: ohm, impedance, etc.), touch one end to one tip of the circuit and the other end at the other tip. Any higher then desired value may indicate a problem within the circuit. Any issue here will need to be determined by tracing the particular wire you are diagnosing.

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p2146
Copyright OBD-Codes.com


Okay, so with my main connector unplugged that i just did resistance test, i will disconnect injector 1 plug and do continuity test on red/yellow to red/yellow and black/green to black/green on each end of the harness, then i will test resistance of pins on injector 1. thanks yall

[blakefife]

the fix:

like a moron, i had plugged my injector 1 plug into my alternator and my alternator exciter into my injector 1. the plugs are the same style and actually fit each other. only difference is the wire color and the wire thickness is slightly bigger for the injectors compared to alternator exciter wires.

so all my error codes went away.

changed the seals on oil filter housing and oil cooler thing.

not leaking......

drove around the block about 1/4 mile.

pulled into drive and shut off cause engine sounds loud as fuck.

shut car off.... hear puking sound from engine bay...

see old green coolant and oil puking from the EXACT SAME SPOT I JUST CHANGED SEALS! WTF

i did notice while changing seal on oil filter housing, the housing plastic was very brittle where the coolant flows through the housing and had some small cracks.... changed with new seals anyways cause old ones were smashed to shit..

puking oil and coolant again.... but NOT RED G12 COOLANT I am adding new to the top of expansion tank... this is the old coolant with green dye in it that was stuck in the hose that tees off the back of the head in the trans tunnel....

change oil filter housing?

[Low and Behold]

First make sure the seals are seated properly - it could just be that. Then yes, look into replacing the housing.

And flush that green shit out of your car. That should be a priority


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[AudiKilla]

Change the housing, rockauto has one cheaper than ECS.

[blakefife]

First make sure the seals are seated properly - it could just be that. Then yes, look into replacing the housing.

And flush that green shit out of your car. That should be a priority

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how do i flush the entire system? which hoses do i undo to flush water thru?