Impact gun on camshaft adjuster bolt?

[a4lownslow]

I’ve been in this situation many times before and once again I’d like to remove the polydrive bolt holding the camshaft adjuster. I already have the cylinder head off the car so space is not an issue. I’m just worried if I use my 600ft Milwaukee impact it may do more damage than good.

I really don’t need to take this bolt out as I already have the head stripped and ready for the machine shop, but it makes reassembly so much easier not having to Maneuver the cam and adjuster around the tensioner and chain. Not to mention installing the girdle.

So the question, should I attempt it or say screw it? Lol


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[Denio24]

I’ve been in this situation many times before and once again I’d like to remove the polydrive bolt holding the camshaft adjuster. I already have the cylinder head off the car so space is not an issue. I’m just worried if I use my 600ft Milwaukee impact it may do more damage than good.

I really don’t need to take this bolt out as I already have the head stripped and ready for the machine shop, but it makes reassembly so much easier not having to Maneuver the cam and adjuster around the tensioner and chain. Not to mention installing the girdle.

So the question, should I attempt it or say screw it? Lol


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You can try, but there is a risk of stripping or breaking it when appying that much torque.

Also, i dont really see how this makes assembly easier. Its really not that bad. Only thing is when you place the cam cradle back in apply all the bolts evenly because of the cam lobes press the valve springs.

[Theiceman]

Id go for it ....


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[funkypterodacty]

Good luck, hopefully it works for you. I tried to break loose my poly bolt and it stripped, per usual.. Waiting for some free time to take the cam girdle off and have the bolt drilled out. Does anyone have a DIY for removal and reinstall of the exhaust cam ?

[Denio24]

What kind of diy do you want? My engine is apart again so i may be able to put one together.

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[funkypterodacty]

What kind of diy do you want? My engine is apart again so i may be able to put one together.

Mainly the proper procedure, I've never removed cams on this platform before but I do have a DIY for the intake cam just not sure what is completely needed for the exhaust cam. Also need to know what replacement parts are required for both the intake and exhaust cam, I've already ordered the ARP bolts for the cam girdle and 2 cam seals.

Would greatly appreciate any info from you guys

[Theiceman]

Mainly the proper procedure, I've never removed cams on this platform before but I do have a DIY for the intake cam just not sure what is completely needed for the exhaust cam. Also need to know what replacement parts are required for both the intake and exhaust cam, I've already ordered the ARP bolts for the cam girdle and 2 cam seals.

Would greatly appreciate any info from you guys

Well basically its a combination of the timing. Belt procedure and the timing chain procedure

With some unbolting in the middle. When you see the girdle it’s pretty straight forward .
You will need sealant and torque specs and sequence. Too


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[a4lownslow]

You can try, but there is a risk of stripping or breaking it when appying that much torque.

Also, i dont really see how this makes assembly easier. Its really not that bad. Only thing is when you place the cam cradle back in apply all the bolts evenly because of the cam lobes press the valve springs.

It does make it easier I’ve done it about half a Dozen Times. It’s been about 50/50 bolt either comes out or strips teeth.


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[a4lownslow]

Id go for it ....


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I know right.. I’m highly considering it lol


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[a4lownslow]

Good luck, hopefully it works for you. I tried to break loose my poly bolt and it stripped, per usual.. Waiting for some free time to take the cam girdle off and have the bolt drilled out. Does anyone have a DIY for removal and reinstall of the exhaust cam ?

I know I’ve stripped the teeth 3/6 times I’ve had to mess with that bolt.. so dumb. I’ve never drilled the bolt out though. If the teeth break I just remove the girdle to do the work and leave the bolt. It’s just a little tricky maneuvering things back into place but certainly doable. But for any reason you put it back together and the timing is off a tooth well now you have to remove the girdle again :/


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[aluthman]

Check out my thread.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...il-consumption!

That covers head disassembly/reassembly with the head off the car. You'll need to get the photobucket fix for chrome to see the pictures though.

[aluthman]

With the cam in the head (in the car), and the timing tool locking the cams in place, I've had 100% success removing the adjuster bolt. Trying to remove it out side of the head has been 100% failure rate.

[Theiceman]

With the cam in the head (in the car), and the timing tool locking the cams in place, I've had 100% success removing the adjuster bolt. Trying to remove it out side of the head has been 100% failure rate.

I imagine you have the correct poly tool of significant quality . I think this is a large factor.

[Theiceman]

I know I’ve stripped the teeth 3/6 times I’ve had to mess with that bolt.. so dumb. I’ve never drilled the bolt out though. If the teeth break I just remove the girdle to do the work and leave the bolt. It’s just a little tricky maneuvering things back into place but certainly doable. But for any reason you put it back together and the timing is off a tooth well now you have to remove the girdle again :/


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simple ... don't be off a tooth :)

[aluthman]

I imagine you have the correct poly tool of significant quality . I think this is a large factor.

My timing tool and both of my poly drive bits (long one for head bolts and short one for cam adjuster) are all made by Assenmacher Specialty Tools and are of very high quality. Way better than ebay junk.

[Nizmo]

In my opinion, never use impact on those bolts.

Agree on using quality tools, simply use the correct socket and breaker bar.

[Theiceman]

In my opinion, never use impact on those bolts.

Agree on using quality tools, simply use the correct socket and breaker bar.

if its not in the head, holding that cam may be challenging.

[Nizmo]

with the proper cam holding tool, it shouldn't be an issue.

There are a couple different versions of the same tool, and one is inferior to the other which is the source of many problems as well of course.

* Edit - Re read last post, The cam bolt is under such high torque and the poly-drive isn't designed for impact, I assume each tooth on poly-drive is capable of only so much ft.lbs that an impact would exceed design limits, as well as the materials. A vice would be better, holding the cam as close to the bolt location as possible.

General rule of thumb, anything on the inside of the engine should be hand tools only, IMO.

[a4lownslow]

with the proper cam holding tool, it shouldn't be an issue.

There are a couple different versions of the same tool, and one is inferior to the other which is the source of many problems as well of course.

It is an issue and pretty well known. I have a genuine Audi cam lock bar and the bolt has stripped half the time I’ve used it. Which is 3 out of 6 times


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[a4lownslow]

if its not in the head, holding that cam may be challenging.

Yes I think you’re correct here, unfortunately.


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[Nizmo]

It is an issue and pretty well known. I have a genuine Audi cam lock bar and the bolt has stripped half the time I’ve used it. Which is 3 out of 6 times


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I as well have stripped bolts. 'angle of the dangle" applies to all this.

If Im not using the correct leverage, or angle I am surely going to strip bolts. Of course "it still happens too".

But with the hood clearance, and firewall clearance its too easy to have the wrong angle when trying to break the bolt loose, as well as which tools are being used. Im generalizing here tho.

[a4lownslow]

I as well have stripped bolts. 'angle of the dangle" applies to all this.

If Im not using the correct leverage, or angle I am surely going to strip bolts. Of course "it still happens too".

But with the hood clearance, and firewall clearance its too easy to have the wrong angle when trying to break the bolt loose, as well as which tools are being used. Im generalizing here tho.

You do have valid points which certainly can increase the likelihood of damaging the bolt. But in my experience it’s not actually stripping the teeth due to “angle of the dangle” but rather the bolt teeth actually shearing off which I think is the case for most people in this situation.


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[Theiceman]

in my best Zoolander voice .....

Do it ... do it ...... do it .....