Seized up pulleys

[wastatepride]

So I put the CTS supercharger pulley on a few months ago. Been running great. Today I flashed stage 2 EPL ecu tune and their dsg tune. Ran fine for a couple hours. Then I noticed my power steering was gone. Then a light popped up on screen said my alternator wasn’t charging the battery. Now my temp gauge is maxed out and I smell rubber and I pull over and park the car. I pop the hood and see the belts are frayed and the pulleys are not spinning. Jammed up right. So I reflashed back to stock and then reflashed back to stage 2 and nothing. Does anybody have any advice on this?


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[theweebabyseamus]

Your crank pulley failed. Do not drive it any more, assess the possible damage to cooling system components and tensioners and replace the pulley and belts. Might have to pull individual pulleys to get belt pieces out. Good luck.

[wastatepride]

The belt is still together. It’s just kind of frayed. What components of the cooling system do I need to assess? It overheated for maybe 10 seconds so i hope not much


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[wastatepride]

So now is the time to go dual pulley

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[Moagi_wa_Afrika]

Had a similar experience a few months ago, I feel like the owners manual needs an addendum explaining what could happen under such circumstances. It's a worrying experience, especially the burnt rubber smell, yet it's so common it's virtually expected.

Frayed belts, loss of power steering , no alternator charge all leads to busted crank pulley. Not a hard fix, but I went with stock CP since I didn't want to upgrade cooling.

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[MSq5]

Your crank pulley failed. Do not drive it any more, assess the possible damage to cooling system components and tensioners and replace the pulley and belts. Might have to pull individual pulleys to get belt pieces out. Good luck.

Probably crank pulley, as its the only one that drives both the accessories and the s/c. But, verify first, as the failure might be an accessory pulley or tensioner and when the belt let go it caused the s/c belt to jump.

FWIW, because crank pulley separation is a known issue, when I went stage 2 tune I went with a single piece JHM 179mm crank pulley rather than undersize s/c pulley. I will never experience a crank pulley separation.

If you are now going dual pulley, the JHM might be a good choice and considerably less expensive than Fluidamper. No NVH issues. Less rotating mass, too. And, because it is no thicker than stock, you can install it from below without going into service position.

[wastatepride]

Probably crank pulley, as its the only one that drives both the accessories and the s/c. But, verify first, as the failure might be an accessory pulley or tensioner and when the belt let go it caused the s/c belt to jump.

FWIW, because crank pulley separation is a known issue, when I went stage 2 tune I went with a single piece JHM 179mm crank pulley rather than undersize s/c pulley. I will never experience a crank pulley separation.

If you are now going dual pulley, the JHM might be a good choice and considerably less expensive than Fluidamper. No NVH issues. Less rotating mass, too. And, because it is no thicker than stock, you can install it from below without going into service position.

I’d love to do that. I’m struggling to not go dual pulley it’s just hard because I just spent almost 1600 on EPL stage 2 and now for the dual pulley they want almost 1200 for software and pulley... then I have to do cooling too. Im very overwhelmed right now lol.
Can I run the JHM crank pulley on a supercharger pulley upgrade without running the dual pulley software?


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[01northernS4]

I’d love to do that. I’m struggling to not go dual pulley it’s just hard because I just spent almost 1600 on EPL stage 2 and now for the dual pulley they want almost 1200 for software and pulley... then I have to do cooling too. Im very overwhelmed right now lol.
Can I run the JHM crank pulley on a supercharger pulley upgrade without running the dual pulley software?


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I believe so, should just bleed of excess boost

[wastatepride]

I believe so, should just bleed of excess boost

Will I need upgraded cooling at this point or not until I’m running DP software


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[theweebabyseamus]

There’s a JHM stock diameter pulley that’s been in the classifieds for a while. Could just throw that on and stay stage 2.

[Chris@EPL]

Will I need upgraded cooling at this point or not until I’m running DP software


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If you are running both pulleys you will need cooling as once the IATs get above about 70C the car will cut power and that will happen after 2 gears at WOT. You can throw a larger crank pulley on for now and the car will be perfectly fine on the Stage 2 tune and it will cut power when the IATs get too hot and will bypass extra boost. But not a good recipe if you are planning on going to the track. Stage 2 alone can cause the IATs get above 70C esp sitting around a track waiting to run.

[wastatepride]

There’s a JHM stock diameter pulley that’s been in the classifieds for a while. Could just throw that on and stay stage 2.

Thanks! I just hit him up. So then the belt I would need is 7PK1270


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[wastatepride]

If you are running both pulleys you will need cooling as once the IATs get above about 70C the car will cut power and that will happen after 2 gears at WOT. You can throw a larger crank pulley on for now and the car will be perfectly fine on the Stage 2 tune and it will cut power when the IATs get too hot and will bypass extra boost. But not a good recipe if you are planning on going to the track. Stage 2 alone can cause the IATs get above 70C esp sitting around a track waiting to run.

When you say “cut power” do you mean Limp mode or like when my traction control kicks on lol or I just won’t be getting as much power?


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[Chris@EPL]

When you say “cut power” do you mean Limp mode or like when my traction control kicks on lol or I just won’t be getting as much power?


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Cut power as in lower the timing maps and/or open the bypass valve.

[wastatepride]

Ok so I checked and the pulleys actually spin freely under the belts. The sc one not so freely but I can spin it a little so it’s not seized.


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[Acejam]

If you are now going dual pulley, the JHM might be a good choice and considerably less expensive than Fluidamper. No NVH issues. Less rotating mass, too. And, because it is no thicker than stock, you can install it from below without going into service position.

This x2

I've had an excellent experience with my JHM 187mm crank pulley, paired with my APR supercharger pulley and dual pulley software. I ran a Fluidampr 187 at first and had nothing but problems with it. Don't believe the "dampened" marketing hype. The solid JHM NVH levels are equal to or less than OEM in my experience. In fact, my idle got even smoother and the car revs noticeably quicker too.

[administerturbo]

This x2

I've had an excellent experience with my JHM 187mm crank pulley, paired with my APR supercharger pulley and dual pulley software. I ran a Fluidampr 187 at first and had nothing but problems with it. Don't believe the "dampened" marketing hype. The solid JHM NVH levels are equal to or less than OEM in my experience. In fact, my idle got even smoother and the car revs noticeably quicker too.

What issues did you have with the Fluidampr? This is literally the first post I've seen with an issue. I did the install on mine and it has been perfect.

[Acejam]

What issues did you have with the Fluidampr? This is literally the first post I've seen with an issue. I did the install on mine and it has been perfect.

It's been kept very "hush hush", but I know of a few others who have this issue too. I would prefer to keep discussion related to this issue in my linked thread, where you can also find documented proof of my issues: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...and-squeaking)

[wastatepride]

This x2

I've had an excellent experience with my JHM 187mm crank pulley, paired with my APR supercharger pulley and dual pulley software. I ran a Fluidampr 187 at first and had nothing but problems with it. Don't believe the "dampened" marketing hype. The solid JHM NVH levels are equal to or less than OEM in my experience. In fact, my idle got even smoother and the car revs noticeably quicker too.

Thanks I will take this into consideration


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[administerturbo]

It's been kept very "hush hush", but I know of a few others who have this issue too. I would prefer to keep discussion related to this issue in my linked thread, where you can also find documented proof of my issues: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...and-squeaking)

Interesting read. Thanks for responding.

[Acejam]

Well I decided to go with the CTS 187mm pulley. I hope this plays out well for me. Have to wait until later to get the software but I’m going this direction so no point in doing my pulley 2x

Awesome choice!

[ValidatedS4]

Ok so I checked and the pulleys actually spin freely under the belts. The sc one not so freely but I can spin it a little so it’s not seized.


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So did you confirm that it was a crank pulley separation?

Also curious on current mileage and mileage with super charger pulley upgrade?




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[theweebabyseamus]

Ok so I checked and the pulleys actually spin freely under the belts. The sc one not so freely but I can spin it a little so it’s not seized.


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Yeah, the crank pulley failing is not seized. The internal section separates from the external piece so if its spinning independently of the crank it is failed/separated.

You have the exact symptoms of a crank pulley failure from first hand experience.

[MSq5]

If it is a crank pulley failure, then you could go with an overdrive one piece crank pulley, like JHM's 179 or 183 and swap the stock s/c pulley back on the s/c snout and stay single pulley. Sell the stage 2 s/c pulley or keep it in the event you do want to go double pulley. Just a thought.

Edit: Oh, I see you are going CTS 187 crank pulley. One piece design. You'll never have a crank pulley separation again! Are you going to keep the Stage 2 s/c pulley on or revert back to stock? With both, you'll bleed boost on your present tune, but will probably be safe. Might be best on your existing tune to revert back to the stock s/c pulley when installing the 187. Best time to do it is when you have the belt off already. And you'll have the right size belt in your new kit, which assumes a stock s/c pulley is in place up top.

[wastatepride]

.

Edit: Oh, I see you are going CTS 187 crank pulley. One piece design. You'll never have a crank pulley separation again! Are you going to keep the Stage 2 s/c pulley on or revert back to stock? With both, you'll bleed boost on your present tune, but will probably be safe. Might be best on your existing tune to revert back to the stock s/c pulley when installing the 187. Best time to do it is when you have the belt off already. And you'll have the right size belt in your new kit, which assumes a stock s/c pulley is in place up top.

My thoughts exactly. I messaged Chris @ EPL about seeing whether or not I could this safely on the tune file I have or not. Ideally this is what I want to do. I don’t want to run dual pulleys without the right software or cooling yet if I can avoid it.



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