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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 29 2018
    AZ Member #
    417909
    Location
    Michigan

    Insanely high mileage

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    So I just got an '02 A4 3.0 from my stepdad about 4 months ago. It currently has 294,000 miles on it, and I'm concerned it won't last a whole lot longer. From what little I know about the vehicle history, the majority are highway miles, and I have a list all work done to it that I will add later. I'm just wondering what I should be concerned about, and what I would start to notice if it were to "call it quits" anytime soon.



    -------------------------------UPDATE-----------------------------

    Chronological maintenance history:
    104k Serpentine belt, tensioner, 3 ignition coils, plugs
    107k Timing belt, water pump, seals.
    134k All 6 coils (recall?)
    181k Timing belt, water pump, seals, tensioners, rear brakes
    228k Front brakes
    240k rear pads/rotors, plugs
    241k clutch and flywheel\

    This was what was written in the notes section in the manual, as well as regular oil changes, tires, etc. It doesn't seem like much if any suspension work has been done.
    I replaced drivers side steering knuckle within the past 2 months. Will look through receipts that I have to see if original owner missed anything in the history. Just found a disturbing note on one of the receipts from 181k saying "Exhaust lifters are deteriorating, will destroy camshafts if not repaired - cust. declined". Haven't seen anything else related to cams, lifters or any other upper engine work. Assuming this is something I should look into given that that was over 100k ago?
    Last edited by mysticjocephus; 05-03-2018 at 04:09 AM. Reason: More information

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings cschuster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    116637
    Location
    Lexington, KY

    All suspension (shocks/mounts/control arms/tie rods/balljoints) is long overdue if it hasn't been done already. Night and day difference replacing all that stuff. The most likely engine killer for the 3.0 is probably cam lobe wear - there are whole threads about that. OBD2 scan for any faults or pending faults, then scan it again with VCDS if you can.

    - - - Updated - - -

    All suspension (shocks/mounts/control arms/tie rods/balljoints) is long overdue if it hasn't been done already. Night and day difference replacing all that stuff. The most likely engine killer for the 3.0 is probably cam lobe wear - there are whole threads about that. OBD2 scan for any faults or pending faults, then scan it again with VCDS if you can to catch anything else.
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  3. #3
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 29 2018
    AZ Member #
    417909
    Location
    Michigan

    I have done an OBD2 scan and came back with only an o2 sensor. Don't have access to VCDS. I will have to look through the notes to see what suspension work was done.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings 19jdog's Avatar
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    Jul 28 2014
    AZ Member #
    268946
    My Garage
    2006 Mini Cooper s - 2013 Mini Cooper S - 2007 C6 Avant - 2006 GSXR 750
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    I have 244,000 and she still runs strong. Take care of her and she will take care of you.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings DJHoro's Avatar
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    Dec 16 2014
    AZ Member #
    303501
    Location
    Fresno

    Timing components, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt and tensioner, coolant flush, intake actuator valve, check ignition coils, check suspension components, check all mounts (motor, rear diff,tranny, snub) check vacuum lines, check pcv, check all fluids, tranny and dif fluids changed? Brake fluid? Power steering?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings V70R's Avatar
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    Feb 14 2015
    AZ Member #
    315239
    Location
    PDX, OR

    I think your stepdad took pretty damn good care of it for it to have nearly 300,000 miles and still running. Feel free to post up a maintenance history that is chronological off of the date/mileage to see if anything might need to be replaced, or if you hear anything that you're curious about (bushing noises when turning the wheel at low speed, cold start noises, etc).
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
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    Aug 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    46297
    My Garage
    '21 F-150 Powerboost Lariat & '14 Acura RDX
    Location
    Dirty Jerz

    Your due for another timing belt change, and probably new plugs, filters, and an oil change soon too. If it hasn't been done, flush out the transmission and differentials and replace the fluids. Suspension components are likely worn and need replacement too, but that depends on the roads and driving habits.

    When you have the timing belt service, you can inspect the came for wear and see if there is an issue or not. My guess is no given your almost at 300k miles and no major issues, but it doesn't hurt to check.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings crazyquik22023's Avatar
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    Jan 30 2012
    AZ Member #
    87460
    Location
    Brunswick, Ohio

    As said above you are overdue for another t-belt and water pump. Also would be a good idea to do a BG engine clean and use the BG MOA oil supplement during your next oil change to keep engine sludge to a minimum.

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 29 2018
    AZ Member #
    417909
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    Michigan

    Quote Originally Posted by crazyquik22023 View Post
    As said above you are overdue for another t-belt and water pump. Also would be a good idea to do a BG engine clean and use the BG MOA oil supplement during your next oil change to keep engine sludge to a minimum.
    What specific BG product would you recommend? Sorry for the dumb question. I've never heard of it before

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings crazyquik22023's Avatar
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    Jan 30 2012
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    87460
    Location
    Brunswick, Ohio

    BG EPR for the cleaning and BG MOA for the oil treatment

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Jun 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    253428
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4Q (B6) 3.0 6MT; 1999 Mustang Cobra; 2003 G35 Coupe 5AT
    Location
    Tampa FL

    218K on my 2002 3.0.
    I like Kreen myself...maybe 80k-100k..

    OC every 7k, with a little sip of oil at the half (3.5k) mark and MMO at ~7k just before the next oil OC.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Nov 03 2010
    AZ Member #
    66528
    My Garage
    2019 Audi A5 Sportback, 1986 MB 560SL
    Location
    Fallbrook, CA

    If you intend to change the rollers, belt, tensioner, and coolant pump yourself, buy a timing tool kit (Amazon, Ebay, etc). To do this job correctly, all the cams have to be held by hefty tools that grab each camshaft at machined flats, while the crank is located by a screw-in pin. There is also a unique tool that fits a 3/8" drive bar like a socket, but it is a kind of key used to rotate the mechanism of the exhaust cams to their initial positions. A torque wrench of at least 75 ft-lbs capacity will be necessary too.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiA4_20T's Avatar
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    Oct 29 2005
    AZ Member #
    8553
    My Garage
    10speed
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    San Francisco, CA

    I have to say, I've been looking around at B6s on CL and a lot of them have 200k+. Pretty impressive.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings projectvoltron's Avatar
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    Apr 15 2012
    AZ Member #
    91884
    My Garage
    B6 Avant 2.7t, 2016 VW Tiguan
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO

    Like most people have said it is Due/overdue for timing components. I would also change all the fluids i.e. diff fluid, transmission fluid, oil, coolant, etc.

    As typical with most Audis. With proper preventative maintenance and they car will treat you good.
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    Jun 30 2008
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    30427
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    Erie, Pennsylvania

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticjocephus View Post
    Just found a disturbing note on one of the receipts from 181k saying "Exhaust lifters are deteriorating, will destroy camshafts if not repaired - cust. declined". Haven't seen anything else related to cams, lifters or any other upper engine work. Assuming this is something I should look into given that that was over 100k ago?
    That was at the timing belt change, because the valve covers were off for that job. Most likely nobody has been in there since to see how bad it has gotten. Cam and lifter wear is a problem on some of the 3.0's and it can get ugly. My suggestion would be to inspect that situation before you buy any parts. It needs a new t-belt kit immediately (actually like 20k miles ago), so pop one of the valve covers off and take a look at the lifters and cam lobes. If stuff is junk, you might just want to look for a lower mile engine, rather than put a t-belt kit/water pump on this one. (Or price out some cams and lifters). That is, if the rest of the car is nice. A compression/leak down test wouldn't be a bad idea while you are checking the health of things.

    TLDR: Figure out how bad the cams and lifters are before you do anything. But do it quick because the t-belt could snap at any moment, and then its all junk anyway.

    EDIT: Wow, I didn't sugar coat that at all, did I? lol
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Aug 27 2013
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    121842
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    Philly

    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    That was at the timing belt change, because the valve covers were off for that job. Most likely nobody has been in there since to see how bad it has gotten. Cam and lifter wear is a problem on some of the 3.0's and it can get ugly. My suggestion would be to inspect that situation before you buy any parts. It needs a new t-belt kit immediately (actually like 20k miles ago), so pop one of the valve covers off and take a look at the lifters and cam lobes. If stuff is junk, you might just want to look for a lower mile engine, rather than put a t-belt kit/water pump on this one. (Or price out some cams and lifters). That is, if the rest of the car is nice. A compression/leak down test wouldn't be a bad idea while you are checking the health of things.

    TLDR: Figure out how bad the cams and lifters are before you do anything. But do it quick because the t-belt could snap at any moment, and then its all junk anyway.

    EDIT: Wow, I didn't sugar coat that at all, did I? lol
    Not at all But its important to get across the details of the potential issue. If the last mech said there were issues 100k ago, its gotta be messy in there now. I agree though. Pull those valve covers and take a peak at the cams and lifters asap.
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  17. #17
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 29 2018
    AZ Member #
    417909
    Location
    Michigan

    Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post
    That was at the timing belt change, because the valve covers were off for that job. Most likely nobody has been in there since to see how bad it has gotten. Cam and lifter wear is a problem on some of the 3.0's and it can get ugly. My suggestion would be to inspect that situation before you buy any parts. It needs a new t-belt kit immediately (actually like 20k miles ago), so pop one of the valve covers off and take a look at the lifters and cam lobes. If stuff is junk, you might just want to look for a lower mile engine, rather than put a t-belt kit/water pump on this one. (Or price out some cams and lifters). That is, if the rest of the car is nice. A compression/leak down test wouldn't be a bad idea while you are checking the health of things.

    TLDR: Figure out how bad the cams and lifters are before you do anything. But do it quick because the t-belt could snap at any moment, and then its all junk anyway.

    EDIT: Wow, I didn't sugar coat that at all, did I? lol
    Honestly, I'm just trying to make the car last until September or so, then hoping to pick up another Audi with much lower mileage and fewer issues.

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