Need to do brakes on my car and need help!

[Djpeaksd]

Ok so my car has 27,000 miles and my pads have about 3mm left and the front rotors are 36.6 and rear are 21.6 thickness.

So I am thinking I am going to do it right and order the rotors as well, even though my lease is up in 10 months. (I may actually keep it, not sure yet)

Questions for you guys.

What do I need to do this job.

I have (2) front rotors Part #4H0-615-301-AL
(2) rear rotors Part # 4H0-615-601-P

Brake pads Im going to go with EBC red stuff (my pads have squealed from day 1 and are super annoying and embarrassing.

Front EBC pads part #DP32158C
Rear EBC pads part # DP32082C

It also looks like I may be able to reuse the wear sensor on the front, but not sure. So here are my questions.

1. Are my part #s good so far?
2. Do I need to order insulation plates part # 4H0-698-231 (x2)
3. Do I need to order Cup expander spring part # 4H0-615-269C (x2)
4. Should I order a front brake wear sensor?

I just want to make sure that when I go to get the brakes done, I have everything I need and I had no idea about those last two parts til i talked to my parts guy at Audi. Keep in mind that I will most likely trade this car in for a new Audi in about 10 months. So I obviously don't want to be cheap but also don't want to throw money out the window.

Any help with this would be great.

Thanks,

Jesse

[Barritia]

Wouldn’t bother with the rotors. They will handle 60k easy. I re used the pads that were on front rotors with done high temp silicone, used a standard word working clamp to compress pistons and I was able to re use my sensors.

Remember you need VCDS for the tears.

[brian_216]

If your light is on the dash saying " brake" your sensors are worn through and need replacement. Once they trip the light they are done. I just did my pads and the only thing you need is the pads and wear sensors. The set I got came with new spring clips too. If the rotors aren't warped, swap the pads and be done. Especially if your lease is up soon!

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[RAF_S7]

Hi Jessie,

The Part #’s for the EBCs are correct.

I can’t remember if the insulation plates are an axle set, or a caliper set, but I would recommend getting them - I know some people manage to reuse old ones. They are expensive mind, and I don’t believe there are any 3rd party manufacturers, dealer only supply. Only required for the front pads.

On the wear sensors, there is one wear sensor on front, and one on the rear. If your wear warning isn’t showing, you can reuse the old ones.

Don’t forget the rear brakes have an electronic parking brake, and you need to follow a procedure to electrically wind the pads pack. VCDS can help, plenty of other options if you search YouTube.

I really wouldn’t bother with rotors, unless they are heavily corroded, badly scored and below minimum thickness. Or you want to upgrade to something more eye catching from Adams rotor range.

I had an Indy shop do mine, when they painted the callipers yellow. Good time to think about a colour change

John.

[Djpeaksd]

Thanks for the replies guys! I am thinking I may keep this thing. Anyone who has recently done brakes with just pads and rotors and not the caliper springs and repair kit?

[goliath1]

Good luck saving the spacers that go in the caliber. They are difficult to remove and very expensive to replace around $200 US as I recall. I did replace my rotors with Adams rotors slotted and dimpled and used their suggested pads. It is a pain to remove and replace pads through the bottom of the caliper Butit can be done with gentle persuasion both taking off (less gentle:-)) and installing. Just take your time. Needed BFH to remove rotors. Don’t forget to remove rotor retainer screw before removing rotors. To be honest, I could have had the rotors turned just a bit as there was plenty of material left. But I liked the slotted look although pricey. I think they get OEM and modify with your specs.

Wire brush mating surfaces and use a little anti-seize for ease of next removal. That guy will thank you.

Ceramic pads produce less dust but performance suffers. My seat of pants says you get 80% of OEM stopping ability as compared with stock pads.

I have a write up on one of these forums with step by step. Good luck. You’ll feel satisfied once you are done not to mention having significant coinage left in your pocket!!

[pez81]

Wouldn’t bother with the rotors. They will handle 60k easy. I re used the pads that were on front rotors with done high temp silicone, used a standard word working clamp to compress pistons and I was able to re use my sensors.

Remember you need VCDS for the tears.

I've done 30k and they're toast.

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[RAF_S7]

I've done 30k and they're toast.

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Mine have done 31k and there is hardly any rotor wear. Been on the Redstuffs last 20k.

Didn’t you have Yellowstuffs on yours Tom - which is more race pad type so greater frictionwear?

Or maybe l drive like an old lady