6sp won’t start after clutch, pp, flywheel & hose

[Ericdhvac]

I just finished the stage 3 clutch upgrade as well as stainless clutch line and AWE touring exhaust.
To bleed the clutch line I used a vacuum bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder and the pedal feels good (though I’m not familiar with the feel of the new setup).
When I try to start it says I need to press the clutch pedal which I’m obviously doing.
How does the B8.5 prove the pedal is pushed?

[Jflow23]

There are a few threads on the topic if you search. This thread has the most viable solution imho.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...to-Spacer-Fix)

I’m running this slave extension myself with no issues.

[jimrobbington]

Lol yep, lots of threads on the push to start issue. Gotta either trick the ECU that the pedal is pressed (ala 3zero3 mod) or try the modified slave with the longer rod.

Btw, what clutch and flywheel did you go with?

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[Jay@JXB]

I just finished the stage 3 clutch upgrade as well as stainless clutch line and AWE touring exhaust.
To bleed the clutch line I used a vacuum bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder and the pedal feels good (though I’m not familiar with the feel of the new setup).
When I try to start it says I need to press the clutch pedal which I’m obviously doing.
How does the B8.5 prove the pedal is pushed?

Hi there! I’m the guy who sells the longer slave rods. PM me if you want one. Solves this problem every time!
-Jay-


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[Jflow23]

I just finished the stage 3 clutch upgrade as well as stainless clutch line and AWE touring exhaust.
To bleed the clutch line I used a vacuum bleeder at the clutch slave cylinder and the pedal feels good (though I’m not familiar with the feel of the new setup).
When I try to start it says I need to press the clutch pedal which I’m obviously doing.
How does the B8.5 prove the pedal is pushed?

Post 28 here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post12132376

Should enable you to trouble shoot your problem and determine if the new slave and rod is indeed the fix.

[b8s4me]

I have never used a vacuum or pressure bleeder to bleed the slave. Before you start ripping things apart, here are my thoughts/ramblings after having replaced a million master cylinders and slave cylinders/clutch lines.

You should start off by bleeding the slave by hand. Unbolt the slave from the trans, keep the clutch line connected and pull out the bell housing. Open the top cap on the brake fluid reservoir, and with your hand push the slave rod in and let it back itself back out. You need to make sure that the brake fluid reaches nearly the very top, almost like it's going to overflow. The fluid goes into a second chamber connected to, but separate from the braking system. Second thought I had is what master cylinder do you have? I've replaced the stock one with Beck/Arnley and FTE, both of which are shit and feel different from SACHS/OEM and have given me grief with the push to start issues. Last and if all else above fails, join the S4 B8 facebook group there is a guy who sells extended slave cylinder rods which will fix your issue. Sorry if this makes no sense, I'm at work typing to look busy!

[Ericdhvac]

Thanks all, I used the search but not the push to start phrase.
In summery I installed the ECS Stage 2 Endurance clutch kit, ECS Lightweight flywheel kit, SS clutch line and Jbullin's extended Sach's slave. The car only has 24k miles and I only replaced the C&PP due to slipping in the power band after APR upgrades, never had any push to start issues until after the new setup install. It would not start at all, after reading the threads I purchased Jbullin's extended slave (thanks Jay!) after installing it vacuum and manual (old school) bleeding I would get a rather unusual symptom, the starter would engage for just a sec then release, push the starter button again and it would start, releasing the clutch pedal would give a normal feel of engagement (still on the lift), if I turn it off and try starting again it won't start until I remove the slave compress the rod into slave body, release it and reinstall, then it will do the same exact thing, engage for a sec, drop out and on the second attempt will start. I should mention that if the pedal is kept to the floor and the engine is turned off it will restart normally but once the pedal is released I have to go through the slave removal procedure again. Also just for the hell of it I added the ghetto fix to the already extended slave...no change.
It almost seems like a software issue as consistent as it is.
I was going through the VAG Com and noticed that some of the new VW's have an option to turn it off.
Any thoughts from the masterminds? I've been so busy at work that it's been on the lift since early March and I'm getting eager to drive it again!
Here's a YouTube link to it:

[jimrobbington]

Thanks all, I used the search but not the push to start phrase.
In summery I installed the ECS Stage 2 Endurance clutch kit, ECS Lightweight flywheel kit, SS clutch line and Jbullin's extended Sach's slave. The car only has 24k miles and I only replaced the C&PP due to slipping in the power band after APR upgrades, never had any push to start issues until after the new setup install. It would not start at all, after reading the threads I purchased Jbullin's extended slave (thanks Jay!) after installing it vacuum and manual (old school) bleeding I would get a rather unusual symptom, the starter would engage for just a sec then release, push the starter button again and it would start, releasing the clutch pedal would give a normal feel of engagement (still on the lift), if I turn it off and try starting again it won't start until I remove the slave compress the rod into slave body, release it and reinstall, then it will do the same exact thing, engage for a sec, drop out and on the second attempt will start. I should mention that if the pedal is kept to the floor and the engine is turned off it will restart normally but once the pedal is released I have to go through the slave removal procedure again. Also just for the hell of it I added the ghetto fix to the already extended slave...no change.
It almost seems like a software issue as consistent as it is.
I was going through the VAG Com and noticed that some of the new VW's have an option to turn it off.
Any thoughts from the masterminds? I've been so busy at work that it's been on the lift since early March and I'm getting eager to drive it again!
Here's a YouTube link to it:

Sounds like you might be better off trying the 3z3 fix which tricks the ecu into seeing the clutch depressed correctly, when it usually wouldn't, even though it is pressed correctly.

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[Ericdhvac]

Yeah, I was looking into that even if to just help diagnose. How is it done / where do I order it? All I could find is the company but no reference to this particular issue resolution.

[jimrobbington]

Yeah, I was looking into that even if to just help diagnose. How is it done / where do I order it? All I could find is the company but no reference to this particular issue resolution.

They only very recently got it into production, it was I who initially commissioned them to come up with a fix for myself, and I've been helping them test for almost a couple years so they could bring it to anyone with a B8 or B8.5 S4 or S5. It's a small electronic device that plugs into some harnesses in the ECU box. Call 3zero3 and ask for Scott to get more info. Tell him jimrobbington sent you. It's not the cheapest thing in the world, but knowing your car will start is somewhat priceless.

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