Rebuilding my 2.0T - what to upgrade?

[lowlife89]

Hi guys.



Car has 85k miles on it (135k km) and burns oil. Not pulling right and I'm also a safety freak so decided to change timing. If I'm changing timing, might as well change pistons to fix oil consumption. Now there's aftermarket OE-grade replacements for $400 and forged for $700 or more.

- IE drop in rods (or 23mm if I'm getting forged pistons) just in case I ever want more than a K04. But would honestly just get meth and stick with plain pistons for the extra compression/off-boost oomph
- forged pistons - even JE get crazy expensive if you put coatings and stuff on them. Are they really needed for 350-450hp? in case I ever want more than a K04?
- S3 8p oil squirters? 06F103154
- K04

What would you do?

[casey_tuzziano]

I did IE drop in rods with the 22mm wrist pins and custom Wiseco pistons for my build. Even for the power I plan to make it's better safe than sorry. JE makes a good set that is identical to OEM. Also, why oil squirters? The 2.0s already come with them and you shouldn't need to clearance them for the aftermarket pistons.

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[lowlife89]

I know, these are first-gen TFSI ones. Supposed to be better, I read a lot about rebuilds on russian DIY forums and everyone is replacing stock ones with these. Not sure why, since Google Translate isn't perfect.

upload pictures online

@casey_tuzziano: I'd just seen your build thread. It's stuff like that that makes want to go on a spending spree.

[casey_tuzziano]

I've heard that the B8 stock bottom end is good for 450hp. I know there are some guys running gt28s with a stock bottom end. There's Chris with the PTE 5558 all road and he hasn't touched the engine internals yet. With a K04 you shouldn't need built internals, but like I said, it's better to play it safe.
Worst case scenario, the timing chain will cause your engine to grenade before the rotating assembly gives out

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[lowlife89]

I see.
I'm changing timing anyway and need to change pistons because burning 1quart every 600 miles of granny driving is retarded.
If I'm dumping 1500 into the engine + 1500 more on fmic, exhaust and K04 - might as well put rods in.

Think the clutch can handle 450-500nm?

[casey_tuzziano]

I'm gonna say no, well maybe not for long. I've installed a few South bend clutches and those customers seem happy with how they're holding up.

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[bhvrdr]

The B8 engine is such a POS i think youre going to be better off and cheaper just throwing in a CPMA used engine. Who knows what part you decide not to change will grenade next.

Here is what I did when I had my engine built but I dont recommend it...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-support-450hp

Mike

[casey_tuzziano]

The B8 engine is such a POS i think youre going to be better off and cheaper just throwing in a CPMA used engine. Who knows what part you decide not to change will grenade next.

Here is what I did when I had my engine built but I dont recommend it...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-support-450hp

Mike

Or you can go that route too . CPMA with mahle or JE pistons. Put a light hone in the cylinders and send it.

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[lowlife89]

Mike: thanks for the link. I'd missed your thread.
I'd drop a CPMA in a heartbeat, but I can't find any here. Looks like European B8/A5/A6/Q5 have the same codes as pre 2013 and I'd hate paying $2k for the same POS that's on the car now.

casey: if I do find a post 2013 engine, no way in hell I'm opening it up

[lowlife89]

Any takes on water pump and oil pump? should I replace them? engine is at 85k miles, planning on doing a stage 2+ and running it for 40k more miles before selling.

[bhvrdr]

Mike: thanks for the link. I'd missed your thread.
I'd drop a CPMA in a heartbeat, but I can't find any here. Looks like European B8/A5/A6/Q5 have the same codes as pre 2013 and I'd hate paying $2k for the same POS that's on the car now.

casey: if I do find a post 2013 engine, no way in hell I'm opening it up

Right on brother. People say there are no CAEB engines here after 2012 but that doesnt seem to be true. I was told my 2014 engine was a CAEB and the engine does say CAE on it. Either way I believe the CAEB engines did at least receive updated parts at 2013 and after so if you can grab a 2014 or earlier engine i'd just go with it. Here we see them for $2500 or so. If theyre way more expensive for you then id probably do at the very least
cam bridge
valve seals
all timing chains, tensioners, guides
rod bearings
arp studs
maybe some drop in rods
pistons
water pump
pcv
thermostat

and think about reaching out to these folks...

https://www.performancebyie.com/blog...t-block-build/


They know what to replace.

Mike

[A4x]

CAEB engines continued in the manual transmission cars after 2012.

Among other identifying features, a CAEB engine would have the plastic intake manifold right?

[casey_tuzziano]

CAED were after 2012 with the plastic intake. I'm pretty sure A4x is correct about them being in the manual cars as well past 2012.

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[bhvrdr]

Yeah mine had the plastic manifold. Some sensors and stuff had to be swapped out to mate up to the old harness.

Mike

[lowlife89]

Couldn't find any B8.5 engines.

Now I'm paranoid about honing the block without a torque plate. The 2.0tfsi gen 2 is not very popular around here.
Maybe honing won't be needed?

[A4 Centaur]

You could send it off for a new Nikasil coating, and not worry about a hone.

[lowlife89]

I googled and I'm still not sure what you mean.
Honing can be replaced with nikasil coating?