02X JHM Solid linkage upgrade

[WeenieHut]

Based upon their videos they said it does not help with slop, only feel and rigidity. I was going to buy the solid short throw upgrade kit because they said it specifically addresses slop issues. Has anybody else installed either and can speak to their merits?

[Nollywood]

I have only experienced JHM’s short-shift kit, combined with their solid linkage on the 01E.

I will say, the 2 cars that had this linkage fitted, in conjunction with their short-shift kit ended up reverting back to OEM, albeit rebuilt with brand new parts. I have no experience of the solid linkage alone, so I can’t comment, but I would imagine it would transmit more NVH into the cabin, you would certainly feel it when you touched the shift knob.

The shifter, I would advise against.

I’ll let others post their own long-term experiences.

[A4-Mike]

Yeah mate did both linkage mods to my 02 5 speed and it reduced the slop by around 50-60% and and firmed up all gear changes, I would recommend it.

02 A4 B6 1.8TQ Stage 3

[WeenieHut]

I have only experienced JHM’s short-shift kit, combined with their solid linkage on the 01E.

I will say, the 2 cars that had this linkage fitted, in conjunction with their short-shift kit ended up reverting back to OEM, albeit rebuilt with brand new parts. I have no experience of the solid linkage alone, so I can’t comment, but I would imagine it would transmit more NVH into the cabin, you would certainly feel it when you touched the shift knob.

The shifter, I would advise against.

I’ll let others post their own long-term experiences.

Why did you revert to stock? In the middle of really cold blizzards my car has a hard time getting into reverse, even an occasional grind. After the transmission warms up it has no problems shifting gears anymore. Its led me to believe the rubber and plastic on either the linkage or shifter itself is tired and worn out and in need of replacement.

[Nollywood]

Why did you revert to stock? In the middle of really cold blizzards my car has a hard time getting into reverse, even an occasional grind. After the transmission warms up it has no problems shifting gears anymore. Its led me to believe the rubber and plastic on either the linkage or shifter itself is tired and worn out and in need of replacement.

These weren’t my cars.

The owners reverted to stock, as they had issues with notchy shifts, and getting the shifter lined up turned out to be a major nightmare.

These are experienced Audi shops, by the way, so it’s not a lack of ability.

[texasboy21]

The trio package was fantastic on my 5 speed B6 and sitting on my tool bax waiting to go on my B7. Top 5 mod you can do IMO.

[Kevin C]

Why did you revert to stock? In the middle of really cold blizzards my car has a hard time getting into reverse, even an occasional grind. After the transmission warms up it has no problems shifting gears anymore. Its led me to believe the rubber and plastic on either the linkage or shifter itself is tired and worn out and in need of replacement.

That sounds like a clutch problem.

[WeenieHut]

That sounds like a clutch problem.

I was afraid of that. I was thinking after I had the clutch and flywheel replaced that I should flush and replace the fluid. It's still the OEM stuff. I have the 6sp manual. If you google search it is a common problem that the rubber bushings wear and the shifter comes out of alignment making reverse and first gear hard to get into. I purchased a shifter adjustment tool to get the perfect degrees. I actually have to disagree with you.

[Matt Devo]

The trio package was fantastic on my 5 speed B6 and sitting on my tool bax waiting to go on my B7. Top 5 mod you can do IMO.

the 6-sp with push down reverse is a lot more finnicky to get lined up properly, I'm still not happy with mine. Whereas the 5-sp was perfect, and like you said definitely a top-5 mod

[texasboy21]

the 6-sp with push down reverse is a lot more finnicky to get lined up properly, I'm still not happy with mine. Whereas the 5-sp was perfect, and like you said definitely a top-5 mod

That is that I have heard.. The linkage upgrade is also much more difficult to get to compared to the 5spd.

[Charles.waite]

Having just installed the JHM shifter (not the trio) in my b7 with an 02X, its an absolute must-have mod. I love it.

However I still have a bit of side-to-side slop/notchiness that I think could be related to the cross-bar or possibly the linkage bushing. I'm considering their solid linkage upgrade as well, but I'm likely not going to bother until I've got the trans out for a clutch job in the next year or two.

In any event, on the 02X you'd have to have installed it totally wrong or don't know how to shift to dislike it. Its amazing.

Shifter alignment took an hour. It would have taken less, but I had to remove the lower hinge to install it and put the nut on the wrong side so it was hitting the tunnel going into reverse and I didn't realize that was the issue. Once I got that sorted, it was maybe 10 minutes to get it adjusted to my liking. Top tip: the Compass app on your iPhone has a bubble level function to easily get in the ballpark of the degrees JHM mentions in their video.

Top tip #2: read the damn instructions. I forgot to install the shifter surround spacers and now I have to take it all apart again to install them and I might need to adjust it again.

The whole process took me a few hours, but if I had to do it again I bet I could knock it out in under an hour. And no increase in NVH with the shifter.

[DJHoro]

Why did you revert to stock? In the middle of really cold blizzards my car has a hard time getting into reverse, even an occasional grind. After the transmission warms up it has no problems shifting gears anymore. Its led me to believe the rubber and plastic on either the linkage or shifter itself is tired and worn out and in need of replacement.

It could be the fluid. I would try a different transmission fluid If the car shifts fine when warmed up. I remember Redline MT90 gave me horrible shifting when the tranny was cold. Or maybe you need to adjust the shifter cables. This can be a PITA to get right like other have stated though. JHM has a youtube video on how to adjust the linkage. Also take pictures so you know how it was before.

[DJHoro]

I was afraid of that. I was thinking after I had the clutch and flywheel replaced that I should flush and replace the fluid. It's still the OEM stuff. I have the 6sp manual. If you google search it is a common problem that the rubber bushings wear and the shifter comes out of alignment making reverse and first gear hard to get into. I purchased a shifter adjustment tool to get the perfect degrees. I actually have to disagree with you.

Must have skipped this post. Definitely replace your fluid.

[WeenieHut]

Must have skipped this post. Definitely replace your fluid.

Thanks brother. I'll do a bleed when money and weather allow it then report back. You meant clutch fluid not tranny fluid right? I mean fuck it porque no los dos? While I'm replacing the tranny fluid you have any recommendations?

[cmiguel32]

The trio is great, the linkage upgrade not so much.

I have the trio shift kit for the V6 01E (since that's what transmission I'm running). The shifts are tight and smooth, though it took some patience to align the shifter to my liking.

The solid shift linkage adds quite a bit of NVH to the car. Rattling when you touch the shift knob in motion and sometimes more pronounced rattle in the lower end of the power band. Keep in mind this could be more unique to my set up as I'm running their super light flywheel and clutch set up with IE cams. Lots of vibration already. If I could do it over again, I would ditch the linkage upgrade but keep the trio shifter package.

Hope that helps.

[DarkoNova]

I thought the linkage upgrade was part of the trio?

[Charles.waite]

Thanks brother. I'll do a bleed when money and weather allow it then report back. You meant clutch fluid not tranny fluid right? I mean fuck it porque no los dos? While I'm replacing the tranny fluid you have any recommendations?

Clutch fluid? Are you high?

[Charles.waite]

The trio is great, the linkage upgrade not so much.

I have the trio shift kit for the V6 01E (since that's what transmission I'm running). The shifts are tight and smooth, though it took some patience to align the shifter to my liking.

The solid shift linkage adds quite a bit of NVH to the car. Rattling when you touch the shift knob in motion and sometimes more pronounced rattle in the lower end of the power band. Keep in mind this could be more unique to my set up as I'm running their super light flywheel and clutch set up with IE cams. Lots of vibration already. If I could do it over again, I would ditch the linkage upgrade but keep the trio shifter package.

Hope that helps.

Could definitely be your setup but I heard the main NVH culprit was the stabilizer bushing, not the linkage. In any event the 1.8t is definitely more vibration prone than the 2.0t that I’ve gotten used to since selling my b6 so for you b6 guys, keeping excessive NVH out of the cabin is something to be aware of. The 2.0t runs so much smoother it’s much less of an issue.

[old guy]

Could definitely be your setup but I heard the main NVH culprit was the stabilizer bushing, not the linkage. In any event the 1.8t is definitely more vibration prone than the 2.0t that I’ve gotten used to since selling my b6 so for you b6 guys, keeping excessive NVH out of the cabin is something to be aware of. The 2.0t runs so much smoother it’s much less of an issue.

The shifter carriage is connected to the body of the car. The stabilizer bushing is what connects the carriage to the transmission. Removing the isolation bushing between the carriage and tranny tightens up the shifting but the down side is that it adds NVH.

[WeenieHut]

Clutch fluid? Are you high?

As in the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Are you high? You know, how force is moved from the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder, then the fork, then pressure plate....


I know moisture can accumulate in the fluid causing mushy brakes/clutch but it's probably a long shot or I have bigger problems and I don't have mushy pedals.

[old guy]

Thanks brother. I'll do a bleed when money and weather allow it then report back. You meant clutch fluid not tranny fluid right? I mean fuck it porque no los dos? While I'm replacing the tranny fluid you have any recommendations?

Something to consider if you have an occasional gear crunch when tranny is cold: Clicky click®

[WeenieHut]

Something to consider if you have an occasional gear crunch when tranny is cold: Clicky click

As always old guy, exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

[Charles.waite]

As in the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Are you high? You know, how force is moved from the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder, then the fork, then pressure plate....


I know moisture can accumulate in the fluid causing mushy brakes/clutch but it's probably a long shot or I have bigger problems and I don't have mushy pedals.

Oh shit. Maybe I am high...

My bad I wasn’t thinking about hydraulic fluid...

In any event crunchy gear changes is likely trans fluid, as Old Guy posted above.

[WeenieHut]

Saul good bby luv u

[DJHoro]

Thanks brother. I'll do a bleed when money and weather allow it then report back. You meant clutch fluid not tranny fluid right? I mean fuck it porque no los dos? While I'm replacing the tranny fluid you have any recommendations?

Sorry for the late reply. I meant transmission fluid. I would try the stuff Old Guy uses in his link.

[WeenieHut]

In any event, on the 02X you'd have to have installed it totally wrong or don't know how to shift to dislike it. Its amazing.

I do love how it shifts but my main concern was slop, and having to baby it into reverse and first because of the occasional grind on very cold days. I think OG addressed my main concern. I'm also used to my BMW that also has a short shifter. Its like an 1" of movement from 1st to 2nd with my BMW and it is also very crisp and metallic, whereas on the Audi stock its like 3" at least and a little vague, rubbery. I've been doing a ton of city driving with my car, so the ability to quickly row from 1-4 with very little hand movement is something I love.

[DarkoNova]

So would you guys say it's better to do just the shifter?

I guess I don't mind NVH, but this is my daily, and it's not a 500hp beast, so I feel like it shouldn't be super noisy and rattle-y.

I also have the 3.0. supposedly it's more balanced than the 1.8, so maybe the added NVH won't be as bad?

[cmiguel32]

So would you guys say it's better to do just the shifter?

I guess I don't mind NVH, but this is my daily, and it's not a 500hp beast, so I feel like it shouldn't be super noisy and rattle-y.

I also have the 3.0. supposedly it's more balanced than the 1.8, so maybe the added NVH won't be as bad?

It’s a steel spherical bearing that attaches directly to the trans. JHM even warns that it increases NVH. Just sayin.

[Charles.waite]

I do love how it shifts but my main concern was slop, and having to baby it into reverse and first because of the occasional grind on very cold days. I think OG addressed my main concern. I'm also used to my BMW that also has a short shifter. Its like an 1" of movement from 1st to 2nd with my BMW and it is also very crisp and metallic, whereas on the Audi stock its like 3" at least and a little vague, rubbery. I've been doing a ton of city driving with my car, so the ability to quickly row from 1-4 with very little hand movement is something I love.

I’m totally with you there. I drive all city, lots of 1-2-3 shifting. Being able to comfortably shift with only your wrist is awesome.

My b6 used to grind going into 2nd and sometimes 3rd. It’s mainly due to worn synchros but if you change the fluid it should help some, I would definitely give that a go. The only way a short shifter should affect that is more down to the faster shifter movement giving the synchros less time to do their thing, basically it’s going to make them work harder, so having good quality, fresh trans fluid is even more important.

Of course I say that as someone who has the original trans fluid in his 92k mile b7 and just installed his short shifter so....do as I say not as I do??

[DarkoNova]

It’s a steel spherical bearing that attaches directly to the trans. JHM even warns that it increases NVH. Just sayin.

Yeah, but how bad is it, I guess is what I'm asking?

I had an e30 with, I think, 75D poly bushings everywhere and it was totally fine as a daily. As soon as I put 75D trans mounts, though, it became annoyingly awful and buzzy and rattle-y.

My other car is a 69 Nova with solid aluminum body mounts, control arm bushings and solid motor mounts. It's totally fine as a daily driver as well, but it also only has a lower durometer poly trans mount.

Can you install the stabilizer bushing with the tranny in the car? I was going to do the trio while it was out during a clutch job. I'd hate to have to pull the tranny again just to go back to stock linkage parts.

[WeenieHut]

Yeah, but how bad is it, I guess is what I'm asking?

I had an e30 with, I think, 75D poly bushings everywhere and it was totally fine as a daily. As soon as I put 75D trans mounts, though, it became annoyingly awful and buzzy and rattle-y.

My other car is a 69 Nova with solid aluminum body mounts, control arm bushings and solid motor mounts. It's totally fine as a daily driver as well, but it also only has a lower durometer poly trans mount.

Can you install the stabilizer bushing with the tranny in the car? I was going to do the trio while it was out during a clutch job. I'd hate to have to pull the tranny again just to go back to stock linkage parts.

You're probably going to have to do the stabilizer with the tranny out, but they also said the stabilizer bar makes minimal difference.

[Charles.waite]

Yeah, but how bad is it, I guess is what I'm asking?

I had an e30 with, I think, 75D poly bushings everywhere and it was totally fine as a daily. As soon as I put 75D trans mounts, though, it became annoyingly awful and buzzy and rattle-y.

My other car is a 69 Nova with solid aluminum body mounts, control arm bushings and solid motor mounts. It's totally fine as a daily driver as well, but it also only has a lower durometer poly trans mount.

Can you install the stabilizer bushing with the tranny in the car? I was going to do the trio while it was out during a clutch job. I'd hate to have to pull the tranny again just to go back to stock linkage parts.

Yea but that e30 has a BMW I6 engine and those are smooth as a babies ass. Our engines, not so much.

[DarkoNova]

Yeah, seems like everyone says the 1.8 isn't that smooth, but I have the 3.0.

I looked at the comparison videos on jhm's site and the stabilizer bushing looks like it makes a huge difference. That linkage piece that replaces a plastic/rubber ball/seat looks like it doesn't do much of anything.

I'll probably just do the shifter and the stabilizer bushing and hope the NVH isn't too bad.

[WeenieHut]

Yeah, seems like everyone says the 1.8 isn't that smooth, but I have the 3.0.

I looked at the comparison videos on jhm's site and the stabilizer bushing looks like it makes a huge difference. That linkage piece that replaces a plastic/rubber ball/seat looks like it doesn't do much of anything.

I'll probably just do the shifter and the stabilizer bushing and hope the NVH isn't too bad.

The linkage and the stabilizer bar are separate parts. The stabilizer bar crosses over the engine transversally linking both the two bars which support the weight of the actual shifter mechanism itself when the transmission is removed from the car if I'm not mistaken.

[Charles.waite]

That’s the cross bar. The stabilizer bushing attaches to the passenger side of the tranny where the stabilizer bar connects the shift box to the transmission.

They have a video that actually pretty clearly shows the different parts on a trans and box that are out of a car. It really helps clarify what the various parts do. I’d recommend watching it. It’s linked on their linkage product page I think.

[WeenieHut]

That’s the cross bar. The stabilizer bushing attaches to the passenger side of the tranny where the stabilizer bar connects the shift box to the transmission.

They have a video that actually pretty clearly shows the different parts on a trans and box that are out of a car. It really helps clarify what the various parts do. I’d recommend watching it. It’s linked on their linkage product page I think.

Thank you for the clarification. :)

[Charles.waite]

Every so often I can provide useful information. As opposed to useless snark.

[DarkoNova]

The linkage and the stabilizer bar are separate parts. The stabilizer bar crosses over the engine transversally linking both the two bars which support the weight of the actual shifter mechanism itself when the transmission is removed from the car if I'm not mistaken.

This thing:

https://jhmotorsports.com/products/t...p-6-speed.html

The video for that thing makes it look like it doesn't really do much of anything.

But this thing:

https://jhmotorsports.com/products/t...n-6-speed.html

Looks like it actually makes a massive difference, even though it probably transmits the most NVH.

[texasboy21]

=

But this thing:

https://jhmotorsports.com/products/t...n-6-speed.html

Looks like it actually makes a massive difference, even though it probably transmits the most NVH.

It will add NVH but a good portion of it can be mitigated by added a few rubber wasters between the trans and the bushing.

After the delrin bushing is in place sandwich a few (I think I used 4) rubber bushing. The noise is greatly reduced but the solid feel is still there.

[Charles.waite]

Does the bushing make the stick vibrate or the whole shifter box? If it’s just the stick I could live with it...