Front passenger axle play

[sagafaen]

I've been driving with a clunk/rattle for over a year now going over small bumps, I decided to jack the car up and look for play on all the arms but there were none exept this play on the axle
It's very similar to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhTtAXuWZYY

I do also have very worn down pads to the point where the caliper is loose aswell(I've ordered new pads and rotors)

I'm just wondering if the axle play is normal or not, the cv boots looks completely fine

[mrismail]

I'm just wondering if the axle play is normal or not, the cv boots looks completely fine

I just replaced my axle on driver side. Although, I did not have that much sway in the hallow bar, I did have a little. The one I got from Raxles did not have any play in it.

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[sagafaen]

I just replaced my axle on driver side. Although, I did not have that much sway in the hallow bar, I did have a little. The one I got from Raxles did not have any play in it.

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Did you notice any difference when driving? Any clunks/rattles before replacing?

I live in Europe so I don't think ordering from Raxles would be worth it for me considering the cost of shipping overseas

[mrismail]

Did you notice any difference when driving? Any clunks/rattles before replacing?

I live in Europe so I don't think ordering from Raxles would be worth it for me considering the cost of shipping overseas

I do have a clunk. No difference in drive.
Check out my thread for the misery I'm going through.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=808173

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[sagafaen]

I do have a clunk. No difference in drive.
Check out my thread for the misery I'm going through.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=808173

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Wow you've been through hell with you car.

I also have a slight clunk/knock that decreases/increases with speed when braking but I'm hoping it'll be fixed once I replace brake pads and rotors(Since the pads are so worn down that the caliper is loose)

Hoping you get your clunk sorted with a new engine mount! (For all I know, it may the be culprit on mine aswell, who knows)

[mrismail]

Wow you've been through hell with you car.

I also have a slight clunk/knock that decreases/increases with speed when braking but I'm hoping it'll be fixed once I replace brake pads and rotors(Since the pads are so worn down that the caliper is loose)

Hoping you get your clunk sorted with a new engine mount! (For all I know, it may the be culprit on mine aswell, who knows)

Thanks! I plan on getting the engine mounts on today. Keep an eye out on the thread to see if it worked.
Good luck as well!

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[sagafaen]

Thanks! I plan on getting the engine mounts on today. Keep an eye out on the thread to see if it worked.
Good luck as well!

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Do you happen to know the length of the axle passenger side? I did some browsing and there's two different lengths for the passenger side (615mm and 618mm)

[mrismail]

Do you happen to know the length of the axle passenger side? I did some browsing and there's two different lengths for the passenger side (615mm and 618mm)

Not sure... your best off calling a dealer and getting part number or specs from them.

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[hemantpd1]

I think a little bit of play in the axial direction is fine. But, there should not be any play in horizontal or vertical direction.

[sagafaen]

I think a little bit of play in the axial direction is fine. But, there should not be any play in horizontal or vertical direction.

I've already ordered one for the passenger side just to see if it'll help with the rattling, hopefully that and new brakes will get rid of it

[Theiceman]

You could be pressing the backing plate on to the rotor with zero pad and still nothing should be ”loose”. Investigate this


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[dalmation53]

The clunk is because you have zero grease inside. The grease makes it not clunk and make it tighter/smoother. Replace boot for cheap solution. But if is grinding to late. Buy new axle from raxles

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[Harriz801]

Your video is hard to tell what your doing with the axle, but I too have wondered the same thing with my axles while trying to diagnose a suspension clunk. I found my clunk to be a passenger side strut instead of the axle. I still have the same amount of play in both axles, in the direction from the trans to the brake rotor, and no clunks from anything. I'm currently at 200+K miles. A couple other ideas to look into are loose sway bar end link bolts or worn brake caliper mounting hardware. To check the brake hardware, hold the brakes down at the pedal while going over railroad tracks, if the clunking subsides, then you know its in the calipers somewhere. Then check the obvious, ball joints, bushings, tie rods (inner and outer), loose power steering rack mounting bolts, sway bar end links and the struts. What kind of mileage do you have on these kind of parts?

[sagafaen]

Your video is hard to tell what your doing with the axle, but I too have wondered the same thing with my axles while trying to diagnose a suspension clunk. I found my clunk to be a passenger side strut instead of the axle. I still have the same amount of play in both axles, in the direction from the trans to the brake rotor, and no clunks from anything. I'm currently at 200+K miles. A couple other ideas to look into are loose sway bar end link bolts or worn brake caliper mounting hardware. To check the brake hardware, hold the brakes down at the pedal while going over railroad tracks, if the clunking subsides, then you know its in the calipers somewhere. Then check the obvious, ball joints, bushings, tie rods (inner and outer), loose power steering rack mounting bolts, sway bar end links and the struts. What kind of mileage do you have on these kind of parts?

It's not my video, I just happened to find it when googling for an answer and it's almost the same as mine. (He's basically just pushing the axle shaft to the left side of the car and back towards himself)

I've looked and checked every control arm, outer tie rods(Don't know how to check the inner tie rods), sway bar end links and there's no play nor any visible wear on the bushings. I know my calipers are loose because I can physically slightly move it back and forward (I have ordered new pads and rotors)

Thing is, I have two rattles, one that's consistent when going over small bumps(shitty roads) and one when braking that's getting louder with wheel rotation/speed if you get what im saying(Almost like it's grinding) This should be solved once I replace pads and rotors

The first rattle I think is caused by either the axle, top strut mount bushing?(although I've had it off and it looks fine), or engine mount (anybody know how to look for wear on these)

Car has 150,000 miles and was lowered back in 2016 on H&R adjustable springs

[Harriz801]

It's not my video, I just happened to find it when googling for an answer and it's almost the same as mine. (He's basically just pushing the axle shaft to the left side of the car and back towards himself)

I've looked and checked every control arm, outer tie rods(Don't know how to check the inner tie rods), sway bar end links and there's no play nor any visible wear on the bushings. I know my calipers are loose because I can physically slightly move it back and forward (I have ordered new pads and rotors)

Thing is, I have two rattles, one that's consistent when going over small bumps(shitty roads) and one when braking that's getting louder with wheel rotation/speed if you get what im saying(Almost like it's grinding) This should be solved once I replace pads and rotors

The first rattle I think is caused by either the axle, top strut mount bushing?(although I've had it off and it looks fine), or engine mount (anybody know how to look for wear on these)

Car has 150,000 miles and was lowered back in 2016 on H&R adjustable springs

The inner tie rod is a ball and socket design that can develop slop over time, you'll have to try to manipulate it somehow to check it for slop. You may have to remove the inner tie rod boot to check it.

I can't speak to much of your issue with the rotational rattle/grind. I would replace your pads and rotors and see how you stand with that. I would look other places for your clunk than the axle. Did the clunk start after lowering the car in 2016? I've read other resolutions with not having the washer installed in the correct spot in the upper strut mount bushing, or having it installed at all. The correct assembly should be the strut, then the thick washer that sits on top of the shoulder that the strut threads are cut to, then the upper strut mount bushing and nut. I've also read others that have fixed there clunk by adding a second washer to give the correct spacing to torque the nut properly.

[sagafaen]

The inner tie rod is a ball and socket design that can develop slop over time, you'll have to try to manipulate it somehow to check it for slop. You may have to remove the inner tie rod boot to check it.

I can't speak to much of your issue with the rotational rattle/grind. I would replace your pads and rotors and see how you stand with that. I would look other places for your clunk than the axle. Did the clunk start after lowering the car in 2016? I've read other resolutions with not having the washer installed in the correct spot in the upper strut mount bushing, or having it installed at all. The correct assembly should be the strut, then the thick washer that sits on top of the shoulder that the strut threads are cut to, then the upper strut mount bushing and nut. I've also read others that have fixed there clunk by adding a second washer to give the correct spacing to torque the nut properly.

I'll try check out the inner tie rod and if I can't see any visible wear or no play in it then i'll take off the strut assembly and check it out, do believe I got it right with the washer though since I did it exactly the same with the drivers side and there's no noise there.

edit: just a question, when I originally installed the spring onto the strut, I used spring clamps on the springs in order to get the nut onto there, was I not supposed to to this? I had the clamp on there and I just tightened the nut as much as I could w/out a torque wrench

[Harriz801]

I'll try check out the inner tie rod and if I can't see any visible wear or no play in it then i'll take off the strut assembly and check it out, do believe I got it right with the washer though since I did it exactly the same with the drivers side and there's no noise there.

edit: just a question, when I originally installed the spring onto the strut, I used spring clamps on the springs in order to get the nut onto there, was I not supposed to to this? I had the clamp on there and I just tightened the nut as much as I could w/out a torque wrench

That way should work fine. It’s tough to get the proper torque on the nut without the proper tools. If you had to compress the spring in order to start the threading the nut on the top of the strut, then it sounds to me like the spring is providing plenty of tension back onto the upper strut assembly when you de-compress the spring.

You said the car has 150,000 and you put the springs on in 2016 right? What about the struts? Were those changed at the same time as well or do they have 150,000 on them? Are they sport struts or no? In case you don’t know, the sport struts are red.

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[sagafaen]

That way should work fine. It’s tough to get the proper torque on the nut without the proper tools. If you had to compress the spring in order to start the threading the nut on the top of the strut, then it sounds to me like the spring is providing plenty of tension back onto the upper strut assembly when you de-compress the spring.

You said the car has 150,000 and you put the springs on in 2016 right? What about the struts? Were those changed at the same time as well or do they have 150,000 on them? Are they sport struts or no? In case you don’t know, the sport struts are red.

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Not the upper part where the two control arms meet, same with the rubber bushing that sits ontop both old

But tbh when the clunking starts it really sounds like its coming from the top of the suspension