Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings crimson773's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 08 2014
    AZ Member #
    272726
    My Garage
    2021 EZGO RXV
    Location
    ATL

    Brake change question: do you also do rotors when you do pads?

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I'm due for a brake change, but the rotors seem to be okay, not worn too bad, not warped, no judder when I brake. Maybe I bought some cheap pads and they wore too quickly, who knows. Anyway, looking to do a brake job and save a little cash since tax season buried me. Do you all normally change rotors and pads at each brake change interval, or just the pads, and then the rotors as needed? I've always changed both when I did a brake job. Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 28 2016
    AZ Member #
    370916
    Location
    NY

    I always do. If you are using the exact same pads you could probably get away with using the old rotors if they are in good condition.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 28 2015
    AZ Member #
    365055
    Location
    Montreal, QC

    i do too.
    S4 B8.5 no track, just enjoying spirited driving.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings cjw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 11 2015
    AZ Member #
    348229
    Location
    Alberta

    Nope. Rotors should outlast pads.
    2013 Lava Grey S4 S-Tronic
    Injen, EPL DP (3.2 ratio) +TCU, Magnaflow Catback Back to Stock, PLM HX

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings EastTNPharmD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 26 2013
    AZ Member #
    119716
    My Garage
    2002 F250 Crewcab short bed 4x4
    Location
    Knoxville, Tennessee

    On my b6 it was rotors about every other pad change. Never tracked the car and while some driving was “spirited” I’m a fairly boring person.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2004 A4 UltraSport 6MT, KW coilovers, FT21, TT225, FMIC, Motoza tuned, 18x 9.5 AMG Replicas

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Corradobrit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 27 2007
    AZ Member #
    22138
    Location
    TX

    Quote Originally Posted by EastTNPharmD View Post
    I’m a fairly boring person.
    You're giving us Pharmacists a bad name. We're not librarians.......LOL
    2014 S4 Premium Plus, Glacier White Metallic, Black Optics, DSG, sport diff, Nappa, B&O, AWE Touring/Res DP, GIAC ECU Stage 1, ECS CF rear diffuser, CR15

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings BucDan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 19 2017
    AZ Member #
    403220
    Location
    San Diego, CA

    What thickness should the rotors be at minimum?
    2013 S4 6MT mods:
    APR intake backpipe w/ modded stock airbox, AFE Air Filter, CTS 187mm crank, APR 57mm charger, APR HX, Stasis Catback, CR-15, 034 Stage 2+/034 Stage 1 CARB

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 16 2017
    AZ Member #
    397834
    Location
    Illinois

    Quote Originally Posted by Corradobrit View Post
    You're giving us Pharmacists a bad name. We're not librarians.......LOL
    I'm a street pharmacist and I'm not boring. Does that count?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 24 2014
    AZ Member #
    284729
    My Garage
    2015 Audi Q3 Quattro, 2017 Corvette M7 Grand Sport, 2017 Audi SQ5, 2019 Porsche Macan, 24 Jetta GLI
    Location
    Central NJ

    No, the rotors last a long time...

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 04 2012
    AZ Member #
    91200
    Location
    MSP

    Yes - I always do. Rotors are cheap enough and you're already in there so why not?! Have you looked at the back side (inside) of the rotor? It's hard to see unless you get the car up and your head back there. Often lots of crud gets in there and it doesn't get cleaned out as well as the front side causing the inner side to get much more wear. I'm actually changing my rear pads and rotors tomorrow because the inner has worn down to metal almost - the outter looks fine!
    You can do pads only if you want if the rotors are not bad but you'll probably chew through the pads again very quickly.
    Don't buy OEM either - too many better and less expensive options out there.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings esfyve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    414756
    My Garage
    2013 S5 3.0T 2004 GLI 1.8T
    Location
    Connecticut

    Never heard of this, rotors always outlast the pads. If the rotors are good, no need to change.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings mercedesinfarct's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 13 2017
    AZ Member #
    401053
    Location
    Philadelphia

    Doing stoptech rotors and pads this week

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Audizine mobile app

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings BigKeshy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 01 2017
    AZ Member #
    400401
    Location
    West Orange, NJ

    The technical service manual from Audi dictates the following:

    Front Brake Discs (345x30mm) wear limit = 28mm
    Rear Brake Discs (330x22mm) wear limit = 20mm

    Take 3-5 measurements around the rotor to assess/account for any uneven wear (use a decent set of calipers for this, not a ruler). If your rotors appear to be in good shape, then there's no need to change to them.

    Regardless of your decision to swap them or not, you will need to properly bed in the new brake pads.
    2013 B8.5 S4 MT

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 28 2016
    AZ Member #
    370916
    Location
    NY

    Quote Originally Posted by BigKeshy View Post
    Regardless of your decision to swap them or not, you will need to properly bed in the new brake pads.
    And that's why I said if you're using the identical pads, you can probably get away with the current rotors. Bedding in is the transfer of pad material to the rotor (I am sure you knew that). When you switch pad material, you often don't get a good bed in and the brakes can chatter. That's what most people (incorrectly) refer to as warped discs. Discs don't warp, they chatter from uneven pad material transfer. That's why I always swap the rotors. They are that expensive, and it's such an easy job once you're already replacing pads.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2025 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.