Turbo Coolant and Turbo Oil line replacement for stage 3?

[15 Phantom S6]

I have a 2015 S6 and I’m wondering if the turbo coolant and turbo oil lines are recommended to be swapped out when going stage 3? If so, is it both the feed and return lines?

About to get into the stage 3 install and I want to make sure I change everything that makes sense...

In case it makes any difference, I’ve had the 21F2 coolant system or coolant line recall performed on my car, but I don’t think they replaced anything but the o-rings at most.. My car had very low mileage on it when they did the recall they told me they inspect everything and only replace parts if it is “required” after the inspection.

My stage 3 package consists of RS7 Turbos, AMS heat exchanger kit, Russian Gesi catted downpipes, spark plugs, oil separator to the rev E version, and RS7 stock airbox (for now).

Did I miss anything??

[OlyS6]

That all sounds good- do you have the rest of the associated hardware for the turbo swap (gaskets, replacement studs and nuts for the turbo to downpipe connection)- since you need to remove the lines anyway to swap the turbos, certainly wouldn't hurt to put in fresh lines and O-rings at the top and bottom of the lines. I only replaced the O-rings for the lines when I did mine, but in retrospect kind of wish I replaced the lines as well. I've got about 2,000 miles on Stage 3 with no issues thus far and no visual evidence of coolant or oil leak (so far). Good call on the new oil separator.

[15 Phantom S6]

Yep, I have all the associated hardware, I purchased my stage 3 from Europrice which comes with it all..

I guess I'm trying to understand if there is any merit in replacing the coolant and turbo lines. To me, the coolant and turbo lines are hard lines and I'm not sure what could go or be wrong with them. If the concern is they get blocked from cooked oil or coolant, I could verify or clear any blockage when I take them off. I don't want to replace the lines for no reason if the lines I replace them with are the exact same. I haven't checked, but I'm sure the line's aren't cheap...

For instance, I'm ok to replace my oil separator even though there is nothing currently wrong with mine, but only due to the fact that the oil separator I'm putting in is a later revision of the same part.

@ OlyS6, Why do you "kind of wish I replaced the lines as well"? Any rationale, or just for peace of mind?

[OlyS6]

Yep, I have all the associated hardware, I purchased my stage 3 from Europrice which comes with it all..

I guess I'm trying to understand if there is any merit in replacing the coolant and turbo lines. To me, the coolant and turbo lines are hard lines and I'm not sure what could go or be wrong with them. If the concern is they get blocked from cooked oil or coolant, I could verify or clear any blockage when I take them off. I don't want to replace the lines for no reason if the lines I replace them with are the exact same. I haven't checked, but I'm sure the line's aren't cheap...

For instance, I'm ok to replace my oil separator even though there is nothing currently wrong with mine, but only due to the fact that the oil separator I'm putting in is a later revision of the same part.

@ OlyS6, Why do you "kind of wish I replaced the lines as well"? Any rationale, or just for peace of mind?

The primary rationale is the line of thinking that when you pull them to replace the o-rings, once you replace them the seal isn't quite the same as if you use a fresh line, and may be more prone to leakage. I have no way to prove or disprove this, but I've been told by others that you can't guarantee a good seal at the end of the lines if you reuse them. Then again, I've had no visible issues thus far. It's pretty easy to do once you're in there. If you develop a leak later, it'd be fairly painful to replace the lines, as you'd have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the bottom connections all over again. Check on audiusaparts.com I don't think they're too expensive. The 'peace of mind' idea is also fairly sound, given the amount of money you've just plunked down on new turbos. Doing what you can to protect them may be a good idea.
The only reason I didn't replace them was that it hadn't been listed on any folk's wish lists on the planning threads, and it didn't even occur to me until after I'd installed everything.

[brad65ford]

was wondering if someone was going to create a kit for this process. I believe mine are leaking ever so slightly.

[OlyS6]

No need for a kit- check out the parts diagram for your car on audiusaparts.com: You'll want to order parts 16-26.

https://www.audiusaparts.com/auto-pa...omponents-scat

[15 Phantom S6]

The primary rationale is the line of thinking that when you pull them to replace the o-rings, once you replace them the seal isn't quite the same as if you use a fresh line, and may be more prone to leakage. I have no way to prove or disprove this, but I've been told by others that you can't guarantee a good seal at the end of the lines if you reuse them. Then again, I've had no visible issues thus far. It's pretty easy to do once you're in there. If you develop a leak later, it'd be fairly painful to replace the lines, as you'd have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the bottom connections all over again. Check on audiusaparts.com I don't think they're too expensive. The 'peace of mind' idea is also fairly sound, given the amount of money you've just plunked down on new turbos. Doing what you can to protect them may be a good idea.
The only reason I didn't replace them was that it hadn't been listed on any folk's wish lists on the planning threads, and it didn't even occur to me until after I'd installed everything.

Good insight. I didn't realize that a proper seal may not be guaranteed once reused, this is reason enough for me to replace the lines. The fact that they arent too expensive is a bonus.. thanks!

[Dasquade]

My bad for asking, but i attempted to replace the seals.
Sadely dealer provided me the wrong coolant inlet seals (not wide enough in height), had cleaned that line and had to reuse the old seal. Offcourse that one is fresh leaking now so atm the car is not going anywhere untill i get the new seals (holidays tuesday phff).
Anyway inlet swap and oil should be no problem, already did the oil line.
BUT the coolant return is giving me a very hard time! The pipes are bolted too the turbo, but those two bolt are located way down in the valley between the intake tubes :(. Was wondering how the hell one is able to unbolt those without removing intake tube...and those both have the same virtually impossible to reach bolt underneat :(.
Only way might be with a decent 90 degree raquet tool but dont have one here....looks i'll have to hand over the car and let garage sort it out (in worst case just have the sort out the bolts and i'll clean/replace seals myself.
Any help would be appreciated!
*stupid seals and tight work area

[15 Phantom S6]

Finally just ordered all coolant and oil lines with all associated o-rings etc. I even got the oil return hoses to the oil pan even tho they are probably just over-priced rubber hoses from the looks of the diagram.. Total order was a bit more than I feel the parts are worth or wanted to pay, but I did it for piece of mind.. All together it was about $500 from audiusaparts..

Replacing these lines and the oil separator that I don't "need", I sincerely hope I'm not gonna be posting about blown turbos or a bad oil separator down the road..

[Dasquade]

Well after Brian took the time to have a look, looks it is a good thing to inspect or already buy a fresh oil screen that is located under the oil seperator (if not mistaken).
Might want to look up his thread about it....

[brian_216]

Well after Brian took the time to have a look, looks it is a good thing to inspect or already buy a fresh oil screen that is located under the oil seperator (if not mistaken).
Might want to look up his thread about it....

Yes, and thats all I would bother to change. I would for sure do the seals at each end of the lines, gasket for the oil module plate and the screen for the oil feed. The lines are just hard pipes, not revised. A soaking in an ultrasonic bath would be all they should need to free up anything blocking them. As far as them not fitting the same once removed and having seals replaced that is silly. They are stainless steel and machined on the ends. just pulling them to change o rings is going to have zero effect on their sealing ability, only the o ring will make a difference. That metal pipe end is not going to change on you from being removed unless you clean it with a file or sand paper..

[Dasquade]

Yes, and thats all I would bother to change. I would for sure do the seals at each end of the lines, gasket for the oil module plate and the screen for the oil feed. The lines are just hard pipes, not revised. A soaking in an ultrasonic bath would be all they should need to free up anything blocking them. As far as them not fitting the same once removed and having seals replaced that is silly. They are stainless steel and machined on the ends. just pulling them to change o rings is going to have zero effect on their sealing ability, only the o ring will make a difference. That metal pipe end is not going to change on you from being removed unless you clean it with a file or sand paper..

My exact tought about the lines aswell.

[15 Phantom S6]

gasket for the oil module plate and the screen for the oil feed.

Can you elaborate on the gasket for the oil module plate and would you happen to have the part number for the screen? Also, do you think it makes sense to replace the one-way check valve under the screen? Always wondered if that part is suspect to fail or if there were any revisions to the part over the years..

[brian_216]

I dont have part numbers handy. But it shows it all here. You cant change the screen and not do the gasket. It is a metal one time use gasket. The non return valve should be ok to clean inspect and reuse. It's a ball and spring. Not sure what fails there.

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[15 Phantom S6]

thanks for the illustration Brian... will grab the gasket and screen in the near future..

Really wishing all my stockpiled parts were already installed, but keeping multiple modified cars in top shape and spending time with the kids/fam keeps me busy and prevents me from starting this stage 3 project.. I hope to get started on stage 3 install for the S6 in the next few weeks tho....

[s4nicetry]

The non return valve should be ok to clean inspect and reuse. It's a ball and spring. Not sure what fails there.

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When it's failed in the past on other Audi's they would get stuck open, probably just from buildup. Clean it up good and ensure it funtions smoothly with no binding etc. it should be good. If it seems imperfect in any way though, I'd just buy another one or you might be buying two more turbos in the near future.

[mjmarovi]

So I have some RS6/7 turbos on the way and am getting everything I need ordered as well. I seem to have found all necessary parts except this oil screen. I can't find it anywhere, searched multiple forums, google, parts stores, can't find it anywhere. Also, do I need to replace the oil separator or just this screen and of course the gasket from gaining access to it? (can't find that gasket either lol)

[brian_216]

So I have some RS6/7 turbos on the way and am getting everything I need ordered as well. I seem to have found all necessary parts except this oil screen. I can't find it anywhere, searched multiple forums, google, parts stores, can't find it anywhere. Also, do I need to replace the oil separator or just this screen and of course the gasket from gaining access to it? (can't find that gasket either lol)

The photo I posted points it out pretty clearly. If you went to a dealership and they couldn't find it for you, find another dealer. I'll grab the part number off my invoice in the am.

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[mjmarovi]

It does point it out pretty clearly, but doesn't help online search. I can ask the dealer when I'm there tomorrow, but just hate asking them to do that if I'm not getting the part from them.

[brian_216]

It does point it out pretty clearly, but doesn't help online search. I can ask the dealer when I'm there tomorrow, but just hate asking them to do that if I'm not getting the part from them.

The part is under 20 bucks. I'd just get it from them. What you will save on line isn't worth the shipping.

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[15 Phantom S6]

I'm hunting for the part number too, cost of Audi parts in Canada vary greatly from the US, I have no clue why. I ordered all my parts from the US for my stage 3 since the additional cost here is crazy. They wont share part numbers with me when I need them and get upset when I give them a list of parts to quote and I don't buy them cause they are overpriced..

For example, I bought the oil separator and associated gaskets and such from the US since it was less than half the price locally, but I forgot to buy qty 2 (only bought qty 1) of one gasket (part # 079145417B), so I went to my local dealer since I don't care if I overpay a little on a low priced item versus shipping costs etc.. I paid $13.xx USD originally for it from audi usa parts and my local dealer quotes me $130 CAD!
This happens more than 50% of the time i go to the dealer asking for part prices, crazy..

I showed them my invoice that I previously paid $13xx USD and they basically gave me a look like I was a cheap bastard for not buying from them at the crazy high price..

[mjmarovi]

Ok, ordered oil screen and gasket from Audi this morning, arriving tomorrow. Screen was $14.80 and gasket $33.00. Gasket part #079-103-161-Q. Screen which they called "Strainer " is part #079-115-175-G.

Total with tax $51.15


Gasket at audiusaparts.com would have been $20.63 and strainer $9.55 for total of $30.18. $21 isn't it a big deal, but when adding up all the parts necessary it's about a $225 savings. That's pretty big to me. And actually that's just savings from audiusaparts.com rather than ECS tuning. Dealer may have been more.

[Dasquade]

Thanks for sharing the partnumber, looking forward for the oil check valve aswell but looks it is just a mather of cleaning it once you down there.
Should be made as a sticky same for the oil/coolant line seals etc ;).

[15 Phantom S6]

Ok, ordered oil screen and gasket from Audi this morning, arriving tomorrow. Screen was $14.80 and gasket $33.00. Gasket part #079-103-161-Q. Screen which they called "Strainer " is part #079-115-175-G.

Total with tax $51.15


Gasket at audiusaparts.com would have been $20.63 and strainer $9.55 for total of $30.18. $21 isn't it a big deal, but when adding up all the parts necessary it's about a $225 savings. That's pretty big to me. And actually that's just savings from audiusaparts.com rather than ECS tuning. Dealer may have been more.

Thanks for the part numbers and yes, there seems to be a big difference in part costs depending on where purchased.. I'm still hunting for the check valve part number if any one has it..

[15 Phantom S6]

Below is the oil and coolant line part numbers, o-ring part numbers and the Oil Separator and associated gasket part numbers if anyone is going to replace everything. Now that I'm in possession of the lines, I can see that I probably wont "need" to replace the lines and replacing the o-rings should be enough, but I'm still glad to replace everything to be super safe.. I also don't mind having an extra set of lines for swapping out later if for some reason I need to..

If you purchase the lines, you don't need to order the o-rings as the new lines come with new o-rings already installed.. I didn't know that and now have a full set of o-rings as spare to use at a later date or to put on my original lines once I remove them..

Oil & Coolant Lines
079-145-910 Water Pipe Right $41.57 x Qty 1
079-145-140-F Oil Inlet Line $88.50 x Qty 1
079-145-948-H Outlet Tube Right $33.90 x Qty 1
079-145-909-H Water Pipe Left $41.57 x Qty 1
079-145-141-F Oil Inlet Line $88.50 x Qty 1
079-145-947-G Outlet Tube Left $33.90 x Qty 1
079-145-742-C Oil Return Tube Right $56.16 x Qty 1
079-145-743-A Oil Return Line $56.16 x Qty 1

Oil & Coolant Line Gaskets/O-Rings & Clamps
WHT-001-011-A Water Pipe Lower Seal $2.32 x Qty 2
N-910-568-01 Oil Inlet Tube Upper Seal $4.24 x Qty 2
N-903-038-01 Oil Inlet Tube Lower Seal $2.84 x Qty 2
wht006335a Seal Ring $1.46 x Qty 2
wht006537 Water Pipe Upper Seal $1.25 x Qty 2
079-145-337-B Holder Right $4.06 x Qty 1
N906-869-02 Oil return Tube Clamp #3.23 x Qty 2

Oil Separator & Gaskets
079-103-542-E Oil/Air Separator $251.85 x Qty 1
079-129-717-J Air Guide Gasket $42.78 x Qty 1
079-129-717-K Air Guide Gasket $42.78 x Qty 1
N-904-425-01 Suction Hose Clamp 41.61 x Qty 2
N-904-898-01 Clip $0.93 x Qty 2
079-145-818 Throttle Valve Seal Strip $9.42 x Qty 1
079-145-417-B Adaptor Seal $13.83 x Qty 2

[brian_216]

Yea those lines are stainless steel pipes. There really isn't anything to go bad on them other than the o rings. A good cleaning and save a few hundred dollars sounds way better.

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[15 Phantom S6]

^^ agreed, but I already laid the hay so no turning back. The only thing I could see happening to them is coked oil inside, but as you mention, a good cleaning will rectify that.. I'm going one step further and putting a heat sleeve around the lines in an effort to keep some heat out..

http://designengineering.com/titanium-protect-a-sleeve/

[Dasquade]

^^ agreed, but I already laid the hay so no turning back. The only thing I could see happening to them is coked oil inside, but as you mention, a good cleaning will rectify that.. I'm going one step further and putting a heat sleeve around the lines in an effort to keep some heat out..

http://designengineering.com/titanium-protect-a-sleeve/

Was planning to heat sleeve them aswell, but maybe best to only do the 'inlet pipes' of coolant and oil...the outlet pipes i would leave so heat can escape the pipes a bit instead of keeping that heat trapped in the lines (at least that is my thinking and i got my manifolds/turbo's/dp's heatshielded).

[mintytoo]

Somewhat related question, can someone who had the coolant line gaskets repaired/replaced take a look at the lines and see if there's any signs of gunk around the seals? My CPO car has it and dealer says it was already repaired and having that gunk there is normal after repairgunk and oil on passenger turbo.jpg

[s4nicetry]

Somewhat related question, can someone who had the coolant line gaskets repaired/replaced take a look at the lines and see if there's any signs of gunk around the seals? My CPO car has it and dealer says it was already repaired and having that gunk there is normal after repairgunk and oil on passenger turbo.jpg

He's lying to you. If there's build up there, it's leaking. That is not normal , and that guy is full of sh!t.

[Dasquade]

He's lying to you. If there's build up there, it's leaking. That is not normal , and that guy is full of sh!t.

I bet it is again one of those 'you don't have to believe everything you see on the net' dealer :(.
Like above posted by s4nicetry....if you have black crusted gunk around the pipes/plate....it is leaking.
Repaired my lines (half of them for now) with new o-rings, pushed pretty hard lately, no leaks. BUT keep in mind it is just a rubber seal. They do supper alot because of the heat from the turbo's but they should at least hold up 15.000-30.000 i would assume!

[mintytoo]

He's lying to you. If there's build up there, it's leaking. That is not normal , and that guy is full of sh!t.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I have looked at a couple local s6, and online and none have this caking unless it was leaking, and then they had it fixed!

[15 Phantom S6]

Finished adding some heat protection to the oil and coolant turbo inlet pipes and downpipes..

The coolant lines are half hard metal and then it transitions to a thicker diameter rubber line with a thin heat sleeve over it.. I had to use a thicker diameter heat sleeve for the lower rubber portion..

The oil lines have hard pipes on each end of the lines and steel braided rubber (I'm assuming rubber) line in the middle.

Only wrapped the top portion of the downpipes..